ESTETICA Magazine USA (3/2022)

Getty Images Hair & styling: Mirza Batanovic, Eufora Style Director - Photo: Mark Short Then&NOW: updating classics We can’t rewrite history, but in the hair world, updating is expected! Tweaks, either dramatic or simple, can make a silhouette look fresh for today’s client. Some of Estetica’s favorite artists have made iconic shapes more contemporary. Maggie Mulhern Certain actresses come to mind when you say pixie (Mia Farrow) or rock stars when you think shag (Joan Jett) or mullet (David Bowie). French twist? Audrey Hepburn, of course. Do those big names (or the hairdressers who created their styles) own those designs? Not if hair artists today have anything to say about it. Famed haircutter Stephen Moody, Artistic Director, John Paul Mitchell Systems and former Sassoon Salon and Academy Director and Educator, says that updating a classic look can be as simple as changing a part or altering a fringe. “The <strong>2022</strong> shag is styled with a center part and is much more layered than the original ‘Coupe Sauvage’. The finish is now heavily styled and less raw,” Moody says. When it comes to the wedge of today, Moody adds that graduation makes the difference. “This time it’s a little longer and layered.” 18 trends

Sometimes just switching the tool used to cut the hair will re-energize the shape. “Many of the newer versions of iconic looks are more undone and effortless than in the past,” says Jacob Khan, Goldwell Brand Ambassador. “Switching from a scissor to a razor will soften angles so they aren’t so sharp.” TECHNIQUES AND TOOLS FOR MODERN TEXTURES Sam Villa, Co-founder and Chief Creative Officer of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, says that today’s looks are “inspired by the past yet shaken up with inspiration from modern techniques.” Villa uses zig zag sections and overdirection to create disconnection and fractured layers while switching between a scissor and razor to cut the hair. By using a variety of tools, Villa is able to work with multiple textures to create the new shag. “Using the appropriate tool on any texture can result in something more refined or dramatic.” Working with texture and creating dramatic results is something expected from Shirley Gordon who readily admits she likes to start with basic looks before elevating to edgy. The afro has been her “go-to” silhouette throughout her 42 years of hairdressing. “When I do photo work I always use some type of afro texture, even if I’m just using it for padding,” says Gordon, a salon owner and Wella artist. To make the classic afro current, Gordon adds an interesting touch, even something like a zipper, turning that “then” into a “now.” Adds Gordon, “It also makes it fun.” Shirley Gordon adds a zipper to update the Afro while Sam Villa celebrates minimal styling effort for the new shag. Hair: Shirley Gordon, Wella Top Stylist - Photo: Roberto Ligresti Getty Images Hair: Sam Villa Photo: Nico Norsdström Getty Images