ADV 224

N E W Z E A L A N D

ADVENTURE

QUEENSTOWN

MILFORD SOUND

SOUTHERN ALPS

WEST COAST

ROTORUA

ISSUE 224

FEB/MAR 2021

NZ $10.90 incl. GST

HIKE & BIKE...

the times they are a changin'

#224

JOBS

www.adventurejobs.co.nz

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz

"The line it is drawn

The curse it is cast

The slow one now

Will later be fast

As the present now

Will later be past

The order is

Rapidly fadin'."

HOMEGROWN TAIAO

TAIAO

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz

Digital, Hardcopy, Web, Social

BUILT FOR HIKING .

DRAWN TO WATER .

Bob Dylan wrote this song in 1964, a year

of seeming new beginnings, and hope. The

world was intrigued by space travel, which

was growing fast; civil rights in America

were under scrutiny as race riots gripped

big cities across the US; the Civil Rights

Act of 1964 was signed into law; Boxer,

Cassius Clay, became Muhammad Ali and

the heavyweight champion of the world;

then President Lyndon Johnson cast a dark

shadow over the year by escalating the U.S.

involvement in the Vietnam War. There was

a lot going on.

2020 was our 1964, a year of change, not

a lot of it good. Climate change became a

focus with the Australian bush fires ravaging

the country and burning a record 47 million

acres; the death of George Floyd in the US

sparked a wave of peaceful and sometimes

violent demonstrations and riots across the

world to demand an end to police brutality

and racial injustice with Black Lives Matter,

and Donald Trump was impeached for

the first time and his absurdity continued

throughout the year.

But the cherry on the cake was COVID-19.

On January the 9th the World Health

Organization announced that a deadly

coronavirus had emerged in Wuhan,

China. In a matter of months, the virus had

travelled the world to more than 100 million

people, resulting in at least 2.12 million

deaths (as of 25/1/21). It was a year of

struggle, job losses, stress, sickness, lock

downs, travel bans and isolation. You heard

it a lot, people were hanging out for a new

beginning, ‘roll in 2021’.

I for one would say, "do not pin you hopes

on a year, it’s just a date”, but 2021 did

arrive. Donald Trump was voted out of office

and the world let out a collective sigh of

relief. Vaccines are arriving and, in many

countries, already available. There are now

the beginnings of travel bubbles with the

first flights from the Cook Islands arriving

last week. There is a sense of normality in

the wind, a light at the end of the tunnel.

I am sure our challenges are not over, and

we need to be as vigilant as ever, but the

times they are a’ changing’ for the better.

Welcome to 2021, we are looking forward to

sharing it with you.

Steve Dickinson - Editor

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

ART DIRECTOR

Lynne Dickinson

design@pacificmedia.co.nz

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

subs@pacificmedia.co.nz

DISTRIBUTION

Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000

OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)


www.adventuretraveller.co.nz

www.adventurejobs.co.nz

www.skiandsnow.co.nz

@adventurevanlifenz

PUBLISHERS

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:

Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand

Ph: 0275775014

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

adventuremagazine.co.nz

adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed

envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may

be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work

published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without

permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable

effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of

this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or

damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of

information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with

respect to any of the material contained herein.

Adventure starts with Rad

THE CHOPROCK

Performance summer hikers

For days spent around water, the capable Choprock is designed to both drain

and dry quickly, protect your feet from debris and grip on slick terrain.

23 Locations Nationwide - www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz 01

page08

Image compliments of Expedition Earth Image by Lynne Dickinson Image by Steve Dickinson

Image by Mike Dawson

page 14

page 36

page 84

02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#224

#224

contents

08//Hiking

The 3 Passes Route, Southern Alps

14//Flight Tales

Queenstown to Milford Sound

18//West Coast Wilderness Trail

Eric Skilling shares the experience

28//The Milford Track

Tired legs, looming deadlines and a Christmas adventure

on the world's finest trail

36//Home Grown

Rotorua, feel the spirit

46//Olivine Ice Plateau

Extreme camping trip

54//Bike Tales

The Queenstown Bike Trail

60//Mt Aspiring

Climbing in a shrinking weather window

66//Adventure travel

Vanuatu

84//The giant sand dunes of Te Paki

with Bridget Thackwray and Topher Richwhite

92//Vanlife

The pot of gold

plus

70. gear guides

83. subs

96. active adventure

FOLLOW US ON

www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz

adventuremagazine


Nzadventuremag

JOIN THE CONVERSATION

#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE

Join us in this flavour fuelled adventure!

www.dcbrewing.co.nz

@deepcreekbrewingco

BEHIND THE COVER

In 2017, a age 22, Australian Remy Morton's

incredible MTB career almost came to an abrupt

end. Whilst riding in Belgium he miscalculated

a 24m jump and landed on his chest. He

woke up a month later with a broken neck, a

complete set of broken ribs, sternum, shoulder,

collarbone, hip, all broken or dislocated. The

official count of his injuries tallied at 20 broken

bones, two collapsed lungs and a pair of

ruptured kidneys. The doctors said his injuries

were consistent with someone who had fallen

off a three-storey building. Like everything

Remy does it was caught on film https://www.

youtube.com/watch?v=cR2BCOBrTrc

ORIGINAL

Remy's accident happened in July 2017 and

by December of that year he was back racing

again. That sentence needs repeating: six

months after a horror crash that almost killed

him, one that the doctors thought would leave

him unable to walk for the rest of his life, Remy

Morton was racing bikes again. In 2019 he went

back to Belgium and completed the same jump

safely. See the full story in our survival issue

due out April 2021!

Remy Morton makes the cover of our hike & bike issue as he performs during filming of Red

Bull Sound of Speed in Queenstown

Photographer Credit: Graeme Murray/Red Bull Content Pool

SHE SAID YES!

2021 has started on a high for Kiwi adventure entrepreneur

Robert Bruce, who proposed to his partner of two years Josefine

Pettersson at the end of a 280km hike, earlier this month.

Robert is the founder of Got To Get Out, an award winning social

enterprise outdoors group that gets Kiwis active via organised

adventures, to improve the mental and physical health of Kiwis.

From the 1st to 10th January

2021 Bruce and Pettersson

were on a multi-day hike from

Cape Reinga to Waitangi

following the Te Araroa Trail,

when he surprised her - and

the other hikers - by dropping

to one knee on the final day.

Bruce, who is thrilled she

accepted his proposal, says

"she can hike, mountain bike,

drive a bus, and most of all is

happy to spend ten days in a

tent with me. She's a keeper!"

The group of Got To Get Out

hikers were initially shocked,

and then cheered and hugged

the newly engaged couple

after witnessing such a special

moment.

Pettersson is a Swedish

national who's been in New

Zealand for two years. In

this time she has worked

for Mt Ruapehu and most

recently been an integral part

of Got To Get Out, arranging

adventure logistics, operations

and assisting the planning of

their many trips. Bruce and

Pettersson share a love of

Nepal, where they have both

trekked extensively, including

together to Mt Everest Base

Camp and Island Peak in 2019.

The wedding itself will take

place when borders allow

Swedish families to visit New

Zealand.

Bruce and Petterson are in the

early stages of planning an

"outdoor chic" relaxed wedding,

which they hope to host in

nature with many of their

hiking friends, and animals in

attendance.

Congratulations from us all

here at Adventure Magazine!

OUT-OF-THE-BOX

HIKER

World Class Indoor Climbing

First visit $25* then free for a week!

Fantastic community, beginners

welcome, boulder classes for all ages

and abilities, inquire now.

* Discounts for youths and own gear

www.northernrocks.co.nz

@northernrocks.climbing

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363

“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we

foster community, growth and positive experiences for

people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”

70,000 followers can't be wrong

JOIN THE CONVERSATION


@ adventuremagazine

@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz

hikING

TALES

3 passes route: Southern alps

By Mike Dawson

In the heart of the Southern Alps of New

Zealand lies one of the absolute transalpine

classic trekking routes; the 3 Passes. It

is revered by many as one of the great

backcountry hikes the country has on offer. Its

remoteness and reliance on perfect conditions

means many a trip is sent back due to high

water and wild weather. This January we set

out to experience one of the classics.

It was nothing out of the ordinary for this part of

the country, but the visibility was minimal as we

pulled off SH73. The windscreen wipers were

raging against the barrelling rain as we stared

out of the windscreen up the somewhat wet

and stormy looking valley of the Waimakariri

River. Barely able to make out our route in

the distance, and reliant on the somewhat

promising weather report, we decided to head

up with the idea of turning back if it didn’t

improve. We loaded our full packs on our backs

and set off embarking on a classic NZ Alpine

route, the 3 Passes.

Our route would see us traversing Harman,

Whitehorn, and Browning passes. This route is

a challenging hike, encompassing 3 mountain

passes, endless river crossing and some wild

backcountry terrain. The trip begins with wet

socks immediately, the first river crossing of the

Waimakariri River right out of the carpark, sets

the scene instantly. As you work your way the

4-5 hours up to Carrington Hut the magnificence

of Carrington Peak start to emerge through the

foggy skyline. From here the true nature of this

‘walk’ begins to emerge. The track heading up

the White River is the first test. If your party in

unable to get across the river here, it’s likely that

the future river crossings will be impassable.

Wise advice.

A helping hand is always welcome on one of the

countless river crossings especially navigating

08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER the Cronin THAN Stream. WORDS/#224

Above: Martina Wegman emerges from the clouds crossing over the Whitehorn Pass. / Right: Crossing over Browning Pass is the crux of

the crossing. A high alpine route immersed in the mountains.

Once you’re over the White River, the ascent begins

instantly climbing up the Taipoiti River towards Harman

Pass. It’s starting to get pretty wild and remote. Countless

river crossings and scrambling over an endless stream

of large boulders up through a tight gorge. Eventually the

gorge opens up into the magnificent basin, surrounded with

waterfalls and the most spectacular scenery right below

Harman Pass. A moment to take it in before a short tussock

bash takes you up and over the pass.

With Harman Pass engulfed in cloud, the team wolfed

down a quick feed just in time to see the cloud part and

expose where we were. An incredible view down Mary

Creek towards the Taipo – not our route – instead we

headed South-West gaining more elevation upward towards

Whitehorn Pass, the alpine crux of the route. Eventually the

path becomes snow as we reached the edge of the snow

field of Whitehorn Pass. Here it’s important to take care

of the steep icy slope ensuring the team watched out for

crevasses.

As the cloud crept back in blanketing the pass in a thick mist

we worked quickly through the exposed area, scrambling

up the loose rocks to the Whitehorn Pass. With no chance

of a view we dropped into the Cronin Stream and began

the descent down out of the alpine area. As we dropped the

temperature warmed and the skies cleared exposing the

magical spot we were exploring. Huge peaks towered above

us, waterfalls cascading off giant bluffs. It was spectacular.

A few hours of sliding down alpine scree, wandering through

scrub and tussock saw us arrive at the Park Morpeth Hut,

an epic little hut on the edge of the Cronin Stream and

Wilberforce Rivers. The Hut Book here goes back to 1999,

full of history and legendary back-country names.


What a spot - The Harman Hut at the confluence of the Harman River

and the Arahura River.

Rewarded with some incredible views from the top of Browning Pass,

looking back towards the East Coast.

Feeling more relaxed after descending out of the

cloud and into the Cronin Valley heading downstream

to the Park Morpeth Hut.

"This was the crux of

technical hiking of the

route. A steep zig zagging

trail up through a rocky

and loose terrain"

We woke on day 3, downed a Radix breakfast and headed out of

the hut to be greeted by clear blue skies. The weather gods had

played ball and we were treated to some beautiful weather. From

Park Morpeth Hut we headed West up the Wilberforce towards

Browning Pass. This was the crux of technical hiking of the route.

A steep zig zagging trail up through a rocky and loose terrain. An

hour of slogging up the hill and the entire crew was sitting on the

edge of the world looking back on the East Coast and ready to

drop off the Western Side of the Alps.

We’d crossed the 3 passes and from here it should be plain

sailing down to the road end, or so we thought. Following the

head waters of the legendary Arahura River we descended

quickly towards the Harman Hut and onwards to the Styx Saddle,

crossing the Styx saddle and into the Styx River proper. A night

and the luxurious Grassy Flats Hut before starting the final few

hours down the Styx.

Suspension

A LightWire spring steel peripheral

frame and an AirScape® ventilated

backpanel for the best quality carry

ever offered

Load Capacity

Designed to provide a stable closeto-body

carry; ideal for managing

heavier loads when the trail

gets technical.

Custom Fit

A cutting-edge Custom Fit-onthe-Fly®

design does away with

complexity while offering a

truly fine-tuned fit.

Not long into the final walk the track disappeared into a sea of

huge landslides and slips. Completely washed out. The river was

high meaning the riverbed was impassable, so we started to go

high, bush bashing and clambering our way through the wild West

Coast Bush. Many hours and muesli bars later we arrived at the

Styx Valley Carpark. Tired but stoked – Grateful to have been

granted a passage through one of the historical classic transalpine

crossing routes.

3 Passes Alpine Route

Total Ascent: 2795

Approximate distance: 53km

NB* Styx Track currently closed due to landslips.

Images shot on Canon R5.


flying

TALES

flight tales

"Anyone who has walked

the Routeburn would

know the absolute wonder

of those places, usually

only accessible by foot, yet

here we were, hovering

a few hundred feet above

them and being able to

share them with Steve

from the air."

By Lynne Dickinson

I’m not a fan of helicopters.

I have a real sense of vulnerability being miles up

in the air surrounded only by a metal casing large

enough to house the few inhabitants. However,

what causes my fear is also the thing that makes

helicopter rides so incredibly exciting.

We left the base of The Helicoper Line at

Queenstown airport and headed straight towards

the West Coast. Our final destination was to be

Milford Sound, however as they often say, it’s all

about the journey. I have a couple of places in New

Zealand that I hold very dear to my heart, one of

them being the Routeburn.

I had been fortunate enough to walk the

Greenstone Valley and the Routeburn 5 years ago

with my best friend and it is an experience I have

been talking about to Steve (my husband) ever

since. The day before the helicopter ride we had

visited the lower reaches of the Routeburn with

Canyon Explorers and I had been pointing out

landmarks to him in an effort to share my previous

experience. So you can imagine my excitement as

our pilot, Callum, explained that we would be flying

up the Routeburn track and proceeded to point

out significant landmarks along the way. Anyone

who has walked the Routeburn would know the

absolute wonder of those places, usually only

accessible by foot, yet here we were, hovering a

few hundred feet above them and being able to

share them with Steve from the air.

Still in awe from seeing the Routeburn from the air,

I didn’t think much could top that, yet as we flew

over a ridge it seemed the whole of the Southern

Alps appeared in front of us. Huge mountainous

peaks were visible from every direction and

glaciers and ice flows surrounded us. Callum kept

us informed along the way, pointing out significant

landmarks and kept my mind distracted from

feeling vulnerable.

That was until we began circling the glacier, looking

for a place to land. We felt so close to the soaring

peaks, yet we landed on the ice with ease.

Stepping out on the glacier we were struck by the

stillness and serenity. Despite the fact that the

helicopter blades were still whirling, the glacier

offered a calmness that we are often lacking in the

fast pace of our everyday lives. We explored the

area around us, taking photos and just taking in the

majesty and the peace on the ice before getting

back into the helicopter for the remainder of the

ride to Milford Sound.

The drive into Milford Sound is one of the most

impressive welcoming sights into any place I know

and arriving by air was even more spectacular.

As we descended into Milford Sound, Mitre Peak

stood guard over the fiord like a guardian sentinel,

it is the quintensional Milford vista but everytime I

see it I still have the feeling of grandeur that you

don't feel in many places.

The last time we were in Milford Sound had been

in 2018, when we had struggled to find a car park

amongst the tourist buses that descended on the

Sounds every hour. So we were surprised this time

to arrive at the terminal to a similar stillness that we

had experienced on the glacier. The car parks were

empty of tour buses and only a handful of visitors

milled around waiting for their boat. It was a stark

reminder of the effects that Covid have had on our

tourism. On one hand I felt privileged to be here

with so few people, in one of the most impressive

parts of New Zealand and on the other my heart

broke for the business that had been affected by

the world pandemic. I can only encourage you to

get out and support New Zealand tourism, not only

will you be able to experience places without the

number of visitors, but you’ll be doing your bit to

help these companies stay alive.

Right: Our birdseye view of the Routeburn Track - if

you look close you can see the huts on the hillside

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#224 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 15

Top left to right: The view coming into Milford Sounds by helicopter / Bowen Falls, Milford Sound / Lynne and Steve onboard Mitre Peak tours

Below: Landing on the glacier in the middle of summer, a surreal experience

"Despite the fact that

the helicopter blades

were still whirling,

the glacier offered a

calmness that we are

often lacking in the fast

pace of our everyday

lives. "


We joined Mitre Peak tours for a 2 hour

boat trip around Milford Sound, with

Kahurangi running commentary keeping

us informed with his wealth of information

on the area. One of the things about the

whole trip was the sense of scale. It’s hard

to realise how large and formidable the

mountains are, both in the air and whilst on

the ocean, without something to give them

scale. It’s not until you see another boat in

the distance that you realise just how huge

the surrounding landscape is.

As well as Mitre Peak, the other main point

of interest in Milford Sounds is Stirling

Falls, which drops an impressive 155m

(Maori name for this place was Piopiotahi

after an extinct native bird) into the

sounds below. Having kayaked the area

previously, we had witnessed first hand the

strength of the water and watched as tour

boats nudged their bows as close to the

waterfall as they could get. So as our boat

veered closer, we left our prime positions

at the bow and headed inside. We watched

from behind the glass as the uninitiated

scampered for our “prime” seats, not

realising that within seconds they would be

drenched.

When the boat ride was over we headed

back to the helicopter for the flight back

to Queenstown. The ride back took us

further south over the Milford Road and

the Homer Tunnel and over Greenstone

Valley, the start of my hike 5 years ago. I

felt incredibly blessed to have experienced

these places both by land and by air, and

one I would thoroughly recommend.

Thanks to the following:

The Helicopter Line www.helicopter.co.nz

Mitre Peak tours www.mitrepeak.com

Destination Queenstown

www.queenstownnz.co.nz

For more than 30 years our sleeping bags have set the

standard within climbing and mountaineering communities.

Carefully balancing our heritage with innovation, we’ve

learnt from the past whilst constantly thinking about

the future. Driven by a pursuit of excellence, quality

sits at the heart of our

manufacturing. We pride

ourselves on designing and

hand-crafting world-class

sleeping bags honed for

the mountains.

AVAILABLE NOW FROM RAB SPECIALIST STORES THROUGHOUT NZ. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors,

BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors Nelson: Packgeargo,

MD Outdoors Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sports, Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman

Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide.

On-line: huntingandfishing.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, equipoutdoors.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz

Distributed by: Outfitters 0800 021732 www.outfitters.net.nz

ikING

TALES

West coast wilderness trail

By Eric Skilling

Amongst all the off-road cycle trails in New

Zealand none can offer the unique spectacle

of the West Coast’s native forests, rivers, and

lakes, bordered on one side by the Southern

Alps and the Tasman Sea on the other. After

spending five days on the Adventure South

West Coast Cycling Tour, I am hooked on the

hassle-free cycle touring that a guide can offer.

There is so much to see and do in this beautiful

part of New Zealand, and the expertise and

experience of Adventure South made it easy to

do plenty in five days.

We completed the 133 km Wilderness Trail

plus an extra 100km was added because,

to quote our guide “we pick the best bits (of

the trail) and add other great bits”. Apart from

the cycling we found the time to experience

the Treetop Walk, Hokitika Gorge, Punakaiki,

Porarari walk and a very sobering memorial

to the Buller mine disaster alongside the Grey

River near Stillwater.

It was a pleasure to cover so many kilometres

on dedicated cycle tracks away from the tar

seal and traffic, and a privilege to enjoy the

beautiful surroundings as well. The many

gorges, streams and waterfalls could be heard

long before we saw them, their waters ranging

from deep blue, turquoise to dark bronze

in the wetlands. Describing the sun setting

over the Tasman sea cannot do justice to the

kaleidoscope of colours and is something

everyone should experience for themselves.

Personally however, my most enduring

memories will be cycling with fellow

adventurers on the section from Ross to

Hokitika, cheered on by grey warbler, tomtit

miromiro and tui. This would come second

only to the section from Lake Kaniere to

Kumara, both of which must be covered in

more detail.

Totara Bridge

Image by Jason Blair

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19

"We soon found yourselves

back in native bush, this time a

wetland fed by the outflow from

nearby Lake Mahinapua"


Ross to Hokitika

As early as day one we were introduced to the

variety of landscapes we would witness over

the next five days. The 33km ride from the

historic mining town of Ross to Hokitika has an

unriveld diversity of scenery and vegetation. We

enjoyed this section of the trail so much that we

managed to repeat the last 10km or so twice

more over the next two days, thanks largely to

the logistical skills of our guide.

The first half of this section follows the straight,

gentle gradient of the old tramline through

farmland and coastal scrub with the sound of

the distant Tasman Sea. The trail continues

along the old tramline as it disappears into lush,

mixed podocarp forest, crossing over buried

railway sleepers and many bridged creeks,

and noticeably more birdcalls. Within a few

kilometres it emerges into sunlight again and a

patch of tall spindly eucalyptus.

Thankfully, and we soon found yourselves

back in native bush, this time a wetland fed

by the outflow from nearby Lake Mahinapua.

We stopped on a small bridge crossing the

dark Mahinapua creek lined with flax, cabbage

trees and tall grasses while milfoils and other

long-stemmed plants weaved with the current.

Mesmerising. A few kilometres later the trail led

us back into the bush, this time less dense and

filled with tree fern. We meandered along the

smooth, very professionally groomed tracks in

dappled afternoon sunlight.

Once we had crossed the Hokitika river we

headed out to Sunset Point in bright sunshine,

temperatures in the mid-teens and the Tasman

Sea sparkling in a gentle onshore breeze. To

the south the mighty Aoraki Mt Cook and La

Perouse struggled to impose themselves in the

summer haze. Stunning. If this was cycle touring

on the West Coast, then why had I not heard of

this gem long ago?


Challenge: Cycling from Lake Kaniere to Theatre Royal Hotel, Kumara

Cycling the Wilderness Trail can be as challenging as you want it to be.

Day 3 for us began at Lake Kaniere and climbed to the 317 metre Kawhaka

Saddle and onto our accommodation at the classic Theatre Royal Hotel

at Kumara. Sixty kilometres of mostly off-road riding in bright sunshine.

A reasonable challenge in anyone’s eyes but worth every kilojoule of

effort. We rode alongside the Arahura River, up some very cyclist-friendly

switchbacks and into a podocarp forest filled with ancient Kahikatea which

was crossed by plenty of refreshingly cool and crystal-clear streams. The

track designers have successfully given cyclists of almost any ability the

chance to experience these memorable landscapes.

Since 1992

Since 1992

DISCOVER NZ’S CYCLE TRAILS WITH ADVENTURE SOUTH NZ

Insert left page: Fresh faces at Ross, the start of our 5-day cycle tour

Above: The beautiful warm waters of Lake Kaniere

Right: The 500 metre treetop walk alongside Lake Mahinapua

Images by Eric Skilling

Lake Kaniere

It would be remiss of me not to mention the lakes. Cycling

to Lake Kaniere from Hokitika is a pleasure all its own - a

gentle cruise through more native bush, alongside the

man-made Kaniere Water Race dating back to 1875,

emerging at the lake. Personally, I was surprised at how

large an expanse of water it is, spectacularly surrounded

by bush clad hills with a couple of rugged alpine peaks

standing over the hills at the southern end. I was also

pleasantly surprised at how warm the water was in mid-

January. This is a smaller but lot quieter (more waka, less

motor) version of Lake Brunner, and another reason I will

return to the West Coast.

Fully supported Cycle Trail tours: *West Coast Wilderness Trail *Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail *Otago Central Rail Trail

*Tasman Great Taste Trail...and more. E-bikes available

Book online: adventuresouth.co.nz | 0800 00 11 66 | info@adventuresouth.co.nz

Fully supported Off the bike Cycle Trail tours: *West Coast Wilderness Trail *Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail *Otago Central Rail Trail

There are many other points *Tasman of interest Great to Taste keep Trail...and everyone more. E-bikes available

busy. Book online: adventuresouth.co.nz | 0800 00 11 66 | info@adventuresouth.co.nz

The 500-metre treetop walk alongside Lake Mahinapua

places you 20 metres up into the canopy, amongst

ancient rimu and kamahi, and then up another thrilling 27

metres to the top of the tower for views to the lake. Selfguided,

the walk provides an informative brochure which

accompany marked stops along the elevated walkway.

The memorial to the 65 men and boys who perished in

the Brunner mine disaster of 1896 made quite an impact

on all of us. Over 180 children lost a father, 37 wives

lost husbands and 14 elderly parents lost their only

breadwinner. The hardships are strikingly illustrated at

the memorial and go some way toward recognising the

hardships these folk endured and the contribution they

made to the economic success of early New Zealand.

500 metre treetop walk alongside Lake Mahinapua


• A five minute bike ride to the West

Coast Wilderness Trail

• 18 quality units

• Close to restaurants, supermarket

and the Westland Recreation Centre

• Safe secure lockup for bikes

• Book direct for best price

p: 03 768 7199

e: greymouth@bellavista.co.nz

w: www.bellavista.co.nz

Unforgettable surroundings. Unmatched comfort

Rainforest Retreat Deluxe, Franz Josef Glacier

Luxury accommodation set amongst lush native bush

Summer season specials:

Book direct for exclusive deals, visit our website

www.rainforest.nz/specials or call us on 0800 873 346

Bella Vista Greymouth

“The perfect place for your overnight stay”

The day spent at the pancake rocks

at Punakaiki was never going to be

long enough. The coastline changes

dramatically after Greymouth, from

wide sandy beaches littered with

huge driftwood logs, to a series of

rugged rocky bays and cliffs where

the locals are raging war to keep

their land from the invading Tasman

Sea.

Views from the road are impressive

but the surge pool at Punakaiki must

be one of the best places in New

Zealand to get close to the power of

the Tasman Sea. Even in small seas

the boom of waves crashing against

the cliffs would make anyone feel

slightly vulnerable.

After the energy of the surge pool

several of us chose a more sedate

walk along the Porarari river and

swim under the swing bridge before

heading to Punakaiki Resort, our

accommodation for the last night.

The rooms from this hotel must have

one of the most stunning vistas

available. Set against a cliff, almost

every room has a view across the

rock-strewn beach to the sea. A

perfect place to sit back and treat

yourself to one of those dramatic

west coast sunsets.

Guided Cycle Tours

At this point I must acknowledge

the skills and expertise of our

guide. From taking all the hassle

out choosing accommodation and

restaurants, providing bikes, snacks,

water, and a bike repair service, a

guide takes all the stress out of the

logistical nightmare of getting to and

from trails. Daily itineraries were

changed based on interests, weather

and even wind direction.

Hassle-free cycle touring means the

only decision is whether to enjoy

that cool refreshing beer on the

deck of the Beachfront Hotel before

or after a shower. My personal

recommendation would be to do both

– the view out across the deck to the

beach is not to be missed.

The other priceless benefit of touring

is the opportunity to share unique

experiences with other like-minded

people who start out as strangers

and end up as friends. I have always

found the folk who join these cycling

tours share an interest in adventure,

appreciate the uniqueness of the

experience, and enjoy the banter and

camaraderie that inevitably develops.

TranzAlpine Railway

Travelling by train on the return

journey is a treat. Travelling on

the TranzAlpine from Moana to

Christchurch made me feel a touch

guilty at the thought that our guide

was driving the van and bikes back

on his own. They are such a relaxing

way to soak up exclusive views of

the huge glacial valleys, wide braided

rivers and viaducts that will have you

staring in disbelief.

A well-stocked café and comfortable

seats make staying awake in the

tunnel a bit of a challenge, but a trip

to the open-air carriage and breathtaking

sights soon take away any

apathy. My only regret on this tour

was why it had taken me so long

to get here, and plans are already

underway to return.

Approaching Greymouth


Sunset from the beach at Punakaiki Resort

Approaching the end of the trail at Greymouth

Thanks to the following people for such an

incredible experience:

Adventure South

www.adventuresouth.co.nz

Beachfront Hotel Hokitika

www.beachfronthotel.co.nz

Theatre Royal Hotel Kumara

www.theatreroyalhotel.co.nz

Punakaiki Resort

www.punakaikiresort.co.nz

Treetops walk

www.treetopsnz.com

TranzAlpine

www.greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/tranzalpine

Punakaiki Tavern

www.punakaikitavern.co.nz


last great mountaineering challenge

Words and Images by Red Bull

Ground-breaking mountaineer

Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja MBE has

attained an incredible new worldrecord

by summitting K2 as part

of a collaborative team in the

depths of winter. Until now, it was

a record that was believed to be

impossible to accomplish and

was famously known as the ‘last

great mountaineering challenge’.

On January 16, 2021, at 5pm

local time the former Gurkha and

UK Special Forces operative

and his team, along with Team

Mingma G and one mountaineer

from Team SST, officially

became the first mountaineers to

ever summit K2 in winter. A huge

feat for the Nepalese climbing

community.

The whole team waited and

then stepped onto the summit

together while singing the

Nepalese national anthem.

The mountaineers climbed the

Abruzzi route.

Purja said: “What a journey.

I’m humbled to say that, as a

team, we have summitted the

magnificent K2 in extreme winter

conditions. We set out to make

the impossible possible and

we are honoured to be sharing

this moment, not only with the

Nepalese climbing community

but with communities all across

the world. Mother Nature

always has bigger things to say

and standing on the summit,

witness to the sheer force of

her extremities, we are proud

to have been a part of history

for humankind and to show that

collaboration, teamwork and

a positive mental attitude can

push limits to what we feel might

be possible. Thank you for the

support we’ve received from

people all around the globe, it

gave us fire in our chest to make

this goal a reality.”

Standing 8,611m above sea

level, K2 was the only 8,000m

peak in the world that had never

been climbed during winter.

In fact, it was considered by

many to be an impossible task

due to the inclement weather

conditions.

Attempts on the mountain are

normally made in July or August,

during the warmest periods;

only 280 people had reached

the summit of K2 in a favourable

Spring climbing season,

compared to 3,681 who have

made it to the top of Everest.

On January 18, 2021, Purja

explained he’d climbed K2

without supplementary oxygen.

"K2 winter was a beast

of a challenge. I firmly

believe that a feat of

such caliber is never

possible if you don’t

have a purpose or if it is

only aimed for your own

self glory.

I have always known

what my mind and body

are capable off. To lay it

out straight, on my previous evolutions I had been carrying

oxygen from 8000m and above, but I was personally

satisfied with my work efficiency up to 8000m. It was my

choice and I had my own reasons and ethos.

It was a tough call this time inorder to make that decision

whether to climb with or without supplementary oxygen

(O2). Due to the weather conditions and time frame, I

hadn’t acclimatised adequately. I was only able to sleep as

high as Camp 2 (6,600m). Ideally climbers need to sleep

OR at least touch Camp 4 before heading for a summit

push. Lack of acclimatisation, developed frost bite from

the first rotation and slowing down other team members,

risking everyone’s safety, were the key uncertainties

associated.

The safety of my team is and always have been my top

priority above all. I have lead 20 successful expeditions

so far and all my team members have returned home the

exact way that they had left home i.e. without loosing any

fingers or toes.

I took a calculated risk this time and I pressed on without

supplementary O2. My self confidence, knowing my body’s

strength, capability and my experience from climbing the

14 x 8000ers enabled me to keep up with the rest of the

team members and yet lead."


HIKING

TALES

Tired legs,

looming deadlines

and a Christmas

adventure on the

world's finest trail...

The Milford Track

Words and photos by Derek Cheng

Steph Jones makes her way to Mackinnon Pass, the highest point on the Milford Track, as rain sweeps up the valley behind her.

“If you’ve got any sprint left in you,

go for it.”

Steph and I were 1500m from the

Glade Wharf, the head of Lake Te

Anau, and she was imploring me to

leave her behind. We'd run some 60

km in the last nine hours, including

1800m of elevation, and we were

late for the last boat leaving the

wharf for civilisation.

But it was Christmas Day. Would

there be some Christmas magic in

the air? Would the boat captain—

knowing of two runners on their

way—decide to wait for us?

I was utterly exhausted, but I

"sprinted" across the pristine

grounds of Glade House, a private

lodge. A slight uphill as the trail reentered

the forest triggered a flurry

of heaving and guttural grunting. I

cried out at the first glimpse of the

lake, not in delight at the discovery of

a waiting boat, but in case a captain

who’s about to leave might hear it

and wait a tad longer.

My legs were aflame. The lungs

were screaming. The tank was

empty. Hazy hope was the only thing

driving me onwards.

The Milford Track is touted as the

finest hike in the world. It spans 53.5

km from Sandfly Point, at the edge

of Milford Sound, to Glade Wharf on

Lake Te Anau. It’s a trophy for trail

runners, not just for the distance and

the scenery, but also the logistical

challenges.

It entails two boat rides, the first

being a 10-minute trip from Deep

Water Basin in Milford Sound to

Sandfly Point. Making the second

ride—from Glade Wharf to Te Anau

Downs, on the main road—is the

crux. Missing it means hiking over

Dore Pass, a 1200m climb up and

over inhospitable terrain, followed by

hitch-hiking from the roadside.

Then there are the fitness demands

and the forecast, which wasn't ideal:

steady rain, with snow at the highest

point—Mackinnon Pass. We could

have waited for more agreeable

conditions, but why not celebrate

Christmas Day, which also happened

to be Steph’s birthday, with an

adventure?

There were four of us at the boat

ramp at 7am on Christmas morning,

which dawned with surprisingly clear

skies and cool, crisp air. Two of our

quartet were dubious about making

the 4pm boat at Glade Wharf, so

they arranged to run a section and

then return to be collected from

Sandfly Point a few hours later.

Steph and I had no such

reservations, breaking into a quick

trot that seemed easy to maintain,


Above left: The trail winds through the beech forests of Fiordland. Above right: Steph Jones and the author at the start of the Milford

Track, looking much less haggard than we did at the end.

Right: Steph Jones enjoying a view of Mackay Falls

and one which, we decided, would give us more than

enough time. We even visited Mackay Falls and Bell

Rock, the former an impressive cascade, the latter a

rock lump that’s been hollowed out and flipped upside

down by the river forces of several decades.

The first section follows the banks of the Arthur River

up an immensely glaciated valley. Every so often, it

opens up to reveal imposing granite walls and steep,

verdant valleys, a reminder of the dramatic weather

forces—it rains about seven metres a year—that

shape New Zealand’s most rugged landscape.

After downing some scroggin and electrolytes at

Dumpling Hut, 18 kilometres in, we soon arrived at

the turn-off for Sutherland Falls, the country’s highest

waterfall. Without much thought, we both agreed that

we had a substantial cushion of time. What if they’re

the most exquisite falls in the history of humankind,

and we didn’t go?

The path crossed undulating terrain before arriving

at the 580m-high falls. The thunderous sound at the

base is akin to the lift-off of the most gargantuan

space shuttle, while the sheer impact of the water on

the rocks at the base is enough to send a stiff breeze

under your jacket and into your chest.

Returning to the main trail about 50 minutes later, we

now faced the steep ascent through Clinton Canyon

to Mackinnon Pass. Spirits were high, despite the first

spits of rain, as we power-walked past kidney ferns,

mountain daisies and Mt Cook buttercups.

At the top of the pass, as the clouds closed in and

snow flurries started falling, we realised that the rest of

the day might not be the leisurely stroll we anticipated.

But we still thought that three hours for 25 km of

downhill was very doable.

The path down, however, was rocky, and care had to

be taken to avoid face-planting. And by the time the

track levelled out to a gentle downhill, The Wall had

materialised: the point in an ultra-run when the face

starts to grimace with every step.

Flowing conversation turned to silence as we ground

down the kilometres. Every time we passed a post

telling us how far we had to go, we quietly calculated

the required pace. It became clear we weren’t going

to make it unless we could suddenly start running four

minute-kilometres. Hope shifted from making it by 4pm

to having a boat captain willing to wait for us simply

because it was Christmas Day.

With about three kilometres to go, Steph verbalised

The Wall with two simple words: “My legs.”

“… are machines,” I replied in an effort to summon

some encouragement. But my own legs were on the

verge of collapse, and I couldn’t help but add: “Tired

machines.”

We pressed on. As we crossed the last bridge and the

grounds of Glade House, we couldn’t help but notice

the crisp, white linen on luxurious beds. It was from

here that the final sprint was on. Visions of a boatmaster,

beaming with delight as we ran into view, kept

the legs pumping right to the end.

There was no boat, of course, or even a hint of a

boat’s wake to suggest a recent departure. It was

4.45pm, and the wharf was predictably silent. Steph

and I collapsed into a mix of joy and disappointment,

as well as relief that we didn’t have to run anymore.

It didn’t take long to decide that Dore Pass was a

no-go. We’d seen it from the track, its steepness

prompting a non-family friendly phrase from both of us.

Our legs could barely endure anything more than slow,

feeble steps, so we hoped—declared, even—that

Glade House would revive our faith in the Christmas

spirit. I had my credit card with me. No price was too

high to allow us a shower and a bed.

We staggered back to the lodge, removed our shoes

and entered a warm dining room with a freshly-stoked

fireplace. We explained our predicament to the

manager, Walter, but he put us firmly in our place.

“It’ll cost you $3000” were the first words out of his

mouth, followed by a stern sentiment of “no, under no

circumstances”. Steph played the birthday card, but

this was a man who lacked an ounce of Christmas

cheer. When Steph jokingly inquired about any spare


Rain clouds hover over the Clinton Valley as Steph Jones makes her way down.

steaks, he replied earnestly that they only

had venison and salmon, pre-ordered

from Queenstown, for a precise number

of guests.

I considered further ways to convey

our desperation, to plead for some

compassionate flexibility, but Walter’s

resolve was unshakable. Steph looked

longingly at a steaming kettle on the

counter. Tea was not offered. Nor was

water. We left, utterly deflated.

Outside the lodge, some more

sympathetic workers explained that the

lodge operated via DOC concessions and

wasn't permitted to host anyone who just

waltzed in. They seemed almost willing

to sneak us into the staff quarters for the

night, but we knew there was nothing left

to do but walk a further 3.5 km to Clinton

Hut.

As we did, we discussed all the ways

we would have happily rewarded Walter

with Christmas well-wishes and bottles of

single malt every year, had his response

been more charitable.

Just as our Christmas hopes seemed

thoroughly extinguished, the trampers at


Clinton Hut restored it—gloriously. We

hobbled in to the random and wonderful

sight of two of our friends, who cooked

us a dehydrated beef teriyaki meal and

then gave us cashew nuts and dark

chocolate. Complete strangers offered us

gourmet potato chips, a vegan sausage

with mashed potatoes and peas, and

extra clothes including magnificently thick

woollen socks for the night.

Andrea, the DOC warden, welcomed

us with so much warmth that she must

have studied Walter’s disposition in

order to convey its antithesis. She had

spare bunks and blankets, and we were

welcome to them, as long as we promised

to sort the bill later. (DOC charged us

$150 each for the night, a stiff penalty for

our visit to Sutherland Falls.)

The morning offered further proof of the

awesomeness of human beings. We

were given cinnamon and raisin porridge

and vanilla chai tea—enough to joke

about running back to Sandfly Point. We

reciprocated their generosity by taking out

everyone’s rubbish.

The morning boat was due to arrive at

Glade Wharf at 1130am. As we slowly

walked back, we hatched plans to punish

Walter. Hide rubbish in every room in

the property? Leave a scatological gift

where he’d least expect? Sneak into the

kitchen and lick every piece of venison

and salmon?

The devil caricature of Walter was, of

course, a convenient fantasy. He was

just doing his job, and the nuances of

his response were amplified by our own

fatigue and unrealistic hopes. Walter was

dutifully vacuuming the dining room as

we walked by, and he gave us a friendly

wave, which we returned.

There was no boat at the wharf when we

got there, but we were 18 minutes early.

It soon appeared and, after it docked,

the staff gave us scorched almonds and

blueberries. Steph’s partner, they told

us, had been in touch and was waiting

patiently at Te Anau Downs.

It had been a Christmas—and, for

Steph, a birthday—to remember. The

adventure had tested our limits, treated

us to stunning scenery, and had briefly

obliterated our faith in the Christmas

spirit—only to then see it refreshingly

revitalised.

Featuring all-new, patented FormKnit technology, the AirZone

Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and

ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or

picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep

your cool.

#MOVEYOURWORLD

new years resolution

these legs are made for walking

What can you possibly say about 2020

which does not involve a lot of expletives?

It was certainly a year to remember. It

is a known fact that the mere prospect

of change does not sit well with many

people and causes stress and anxiety,

but 2020 saw us all change in many

ways. We had to quickly adapt to a ‘new

normal’, changing the way that we worked,

socialised, travelled and engaged with

people on a daily basis.

It was also a year that made us reflect. It

made us all sit down and think about what

was truly important in life. It was more

about family, friends and health and much

less about material things. It was more

about being ok and less about what we

owned. Minimalism became the fashion

and materialism walked out the door. We

took to discovering our own backyards, to

disconnecting from the everyday and to

learning how to stop and breathe again.

My annual holiday was always of the

overseas kind, exploring new exotic

locations and spending time with friends

and family that tagged along with me. This

year, alas it wasn’t to be. So after nearly

12 months with no break, I too decided to

take to the NZ outdoors and discovered

the art of a walking holiday.

I know. Walk and holiday often don’t tend

to appear in the same sentence, (even

I used to think that). But I can honestly

say that having 2 weeks walking in the

By Natalie Tambolash

great outdoors was an experience that

left me feeling relaxed and accomplished

at the same time. For those that are a

little sceptical, here is why I think walking

holidays are a great idea.

1. It’s a healthy travel alternative:

“Mauri tū Mauri ora” – “An active soul is

a healthy soul”. Walking is good for the

heart, the mind and the soul. It helps get

your muscles moving, your lungs breathing

fresh air, lightens your mood, improves

your sleep and you end up fitter after your

trip then when you first started even if you

are indulging.

2. Walking is suitable for everyone:

From those that are new to a walking

holiday, through to those seeking their next

challenge or ticking off their bucket list. No

matter your fitness level or ability, there is

a walk out there to suit everyone.

3. It makes New Zealand affordable:

Budget plays a key role for most of us

when travelling and walking is a way to

see the country without breaking the bank.

There are many self-guided walks that are

budget friendly providing everything you

need and nothing you don’t whilst being

fully organised for you.

4. Freedom to choose the trip you want:

Walking allows you to choose where you

walk, when you walk and how you walk.

Self-guided or guided walks exist around

all regions of New Zealand, allowing

you the freedom of choice and also the

freedom to choose your own pace.

5. Exploring remote locations and

off the beaten path trails: There is so

much beauty to be discovered throughout

Aotearoa, some whose names resonate

with us, and some that are unknown,

remote regions ready to be discovered

and explored. In a time where it is all

about distancing, there are still plenty

of ‘untrodden trails’ and picture perfect

landscapes to be walked in NZ.

6. Great for single travellers: Not all

our friends, family or partners want to go

walking with us. Some of them would

rather stay at home than embrace the

great outdoors. A guided walk is great for

single travellers. You can join a guided

departure knowing that you are walking

with a group of like-minded travellers and

potentially walking away with a new group

of friends at the end of it.

7. Allows you to reconnect and reflect:

Our lives have become all too busy. Filled

day to day with jobs, activities, lists and

leaving us feeling like we must achieve

everything and so much more. In the

chaos that is life, we forget our own selves.

We forget to take a breath and enjoy the

moment. Walking allows us to reconnect –

to ourselves, to nature and to being in that

moment and reflect on where we are at

and where we might be going.

8. Provides a more in-depth experience:

We all know that feeling of arriving at

an unknown destination and sometimes

thinking, ‘now what’. The best way to find

and explore your surrounds is on foot. A

walking trip is no different. It will take

you to where often most other modes

of transport cannot access. Exploring

regions only reached on foot and giving

you the chance of a more in-depth

experience and exploration of an area,

than simply driving through it or skimming

past it. You become more involved with

the area, the people in it and the quirky

little items of interest that you find along

the way.

"It was also a year that made us reflect. It made

us all sit down and think about what was truly

important in life."

9. It naturally provides social

distancing: In a world that completely

changed overnight and fear of being ‘too

close’ became the normal, a walk allows

for natural social distancing allowing you

to maintain a distance between your fellow

walkers (if you’re in a group) or between

other walkers if you are self-guided.

Sometimes, you will be the only one out

there on the track.

10. Allows you to throw time out the

window: Walking is the perfect place to

take your watch off. You have all day to

walk, so why do you need a schedule or

a watch to tell you what the time is. Take

it off. Throw time out the window and just

live in the moment. Eat when hungry, drink

when thirsty and just enjoy the sounds

surrounding you and the beat of your own

rhythm.

I discovered that these legs were made

for walking and it is something I vow to do

more of in 2021. Getting out into nature,

listening to the sounds, appreciating the

little things and truly allowing myself to

disconnect from life and reconnect to

myself was the best New Year’s resolution

I could make for 2021. Will you join me?

Don’t just do a good walk

do a GREAT one!


HOMEGROWN

ROTORUA

ROTORUA

feel the spirit

By Lynne and Steve Dickinson

Image compliments of Volcanic Air

The spectacular Hokitika Gorge

Like any adventurer knows, if you are feeling lost,

or need to get your bearings, you climb to the top

of the highest tree or hill to gain some perspective.

We were not lost, but we didn’t know what treasures

were hidden in our surrounds and from the vantage

point of our small float plane we were able to see

for miles, literally. In one direction we could see

Mt Edgecombe and glimpse White Island on the

horizon and around us lakes littered the landscape.

Holding guard over this incredible landscape, Mt

Tarawera stood like a proud sentinel, the gashes

and gorges in its side witness to its violent history.

Mount Tarawera is the one of the most well-known

features of Rotorua, although it is one of those

places we often see simply as a backdrop to our

lakeside adventures. There is a trail to the top of the

mountain, but you are not able to hike this without

joining a tour. At present the only way to access the

1,111meter peak (or peaks) is either by flying with

Volcanic Air (they do a helicopter ride to the top

where you can get out and explore as well as the

float plane ride, which we were on) or with Kaitiaki

Adventures, who own the rights to the land access

and run 4x4 and hiking tours to the summit.

Tarawera, which in Maori translates to “burnt peaks”

last erupted in 1886, killing over 120 people and

burying the Pink and White Terraces beneath Lake

Rotomahana. As we flew over the craters you can

clearly see the fissure that runs for 17km, splitting

the mountain in two, something you could only

experience from the heights of a plane.

As most of us explore New Zealand by road,

and often just the main road, we have no idea

of the gems often just hidden behind a hill or in

a secluded valley. From our vantage point we

could see small settlements dotted around the

countryside, as our pilot, Simon explained the

significance of each of the landmarks. We flew

over steaming geysers and lakes so vivid in colour

you would think they had been painted, places we

simply did not know existed.

We became humbly aware of how much of

New Zealand is unoccupied, and those small

communities that exist are unknown to most of

us. Amongst the groomed dairy farms, and wild

natural forests there are treasures just waiting to

be discovered.

"From the vantage point

of our small float plane

we were able to see for

miles, literally."


Left to right: The landing strip / Our pilot Simon and editor Steve / Orakei Korako Geothermal area

Main image: Our guide, Cabin, leading the way in Whakarewarewa Forest

One such place was Orakei Korako

Geothermal Park and Cave. As we

descended upon Lake Ohakuri, it was

impossible to imagine that we could

actually land on this slither of water. We

circled the narrow lake before descending

between the trees and expertly gliding to a

stop just alongside the dock at the Orakei

Korako Geothermal Park and Cave.

Orakei Korako is a highly active

geothermal area located south of Rotorua,

on the earliest known route from Rotorua

and Taupo and it has been hosting visitors

since the early 1900’s. The naturally faultstepped

silica terraces that form the base

of the geyser land are believed the be the

largest of their kind since the destruction

of the Pink and White Terraces.

Last year, we visited the famous geyser

lands in Yellowstone National Park, and

watched as geysers bubbled and boiled,

surrounded by hundreds of people all

“oohing and aching” waiting for Old

Faithful to blow. We had travelled 16

hours by plane, driven 900km, paid an

expensive entry fee and were squished in

with noisy tourists drinking “double gulp”

and scoffing hotdogs trying to get a peak

of the bubbling geyser and we could have

simply driven three hours south and seen

the same thing.

Orakei Korako is just one of the many

geothermal hotspots in this region.

Although you can do the 45 minute drive

south from Rotorua, flying there with

Volcanic Air in their float plane adds so

much to the experience.

As we could see from the air, Rotorua

area is diverse and this creates a unique

environment allowing for an array

of outdoor activities to take place in

such a small compact area. The most

renowned adventure activity in Rotorua

is its mountain biking. Wherever you

look you’ll see people on bikes or bikes

attached to the back or top of cars. The

Whakarewarewa Forest is home to many

international mountain bike events,

including Crankworx, which Red Bull ranks

as the #1 event to watch. This reputation

can sometimes be intimidating to the

average biker. However we were soon to

find out that the park had something to

offer everyone.

We had arranged to go biking with one of

the guides from Mountain Bike Rotorua,

who have a base out at the mountain bike

park in Waipa State Mill Road. We had

limited time in the park and didn’t want

to spend it hovering over a map trying to

work out where we were. That’s definitely

one of the issues I have with mountain

bike parks, the trail maps seem less than

easy to navigate when you are fairly new

to the sport.

Our guide for the day was “Cabin”, a local

who had spent most of his youth following

a professional career in mountain biking.

In order to see as much as the park as

possible (as well as the fact that our

mountain bike fitness was a little shite)

we ordered e-bikes. As I type this I can

hear some of you hard core mountain

bikers groaning, “that’s not real biking”.

Well I used to think the same but as I have

gotten a little older and a little slower I

have become a convert.

Our first stop with Cabin was to sit in front

of the large trail map as he explained

the park, its trails and its development.

Rotorua has the most extensive mountain

bike trail network in the country with

approx. 200 trails in the region (and these

seem to be growing daily), so you can

spend a lot of time in here and not ride the

same piece of dirt twice.

We set off on the new Forest Loop

perimeter track, which has been set up to

be the “Tongariro Crossing” of mountain

biking. When completely finished it will

circumnavigate the park, making for

a 40-50km grade 2 ride and take the

Whakarewarewa Forest trail network over

the 200km mark.

As the trail began we entered the edge

of the Redwoods, for me this was one

of the highlights. There are few places

in the world where the size and age of

your surrounds gives you a real sense of

grandeur, and the Rotorua Redwoods is

one of those places. We followed this trail

for a while but with limited time we turned

off to access some different options. Cabin

not only explained where we were and

what was on offer but he also gave us

some insights into biking from his lifetime

of experience, just the odd tip now and

again made all the difference, even just

following his ‘line’ downhill helped.

As with skiing, for more extreme tracks

you need elevation and we climbed

through the forest into more exposed

sections of tracks and trails, thankful for

the extra boost our e-bikes could provide

on the uphill. Cabin pointed out landmarks

and various trails and we explored some

grade 3 tracks, with steep berms and

a few bumps, and were surprised how

well the e-bikes handled the terrain. For

someone of Cabin’s experience, the e-bike

would be totally redundant on the uphill

and weight restricted on the downhill,

however for us we noted no difference on

the downhill and a complete difference

(thankfully) on the uphill.

The park itself is varied both in terrain

and scenery, at times you feel like you are

miles away from civilisation, cutting a path

through narrow trails, and at other times

you are biking through forestry access


oads and can see the town of Rotorua in

the distance. There is so much variance

and I think that is one of the things that

makes this park so popular.

As we finished our ride and arrived back

in the car park area, Cabin took us back

to the map to show us where we had

ridden. We had covered a large area,

although still only a small portion of what

the park had to offer. He then showed us

what we would have covered if we had

been on a “normal” bike. The difference

was surprising and put to bed any

reservations I may have had about being

on an e-bike.

I wouldn’t say we were exhausted, but

we were definitely ready for a beer. We

had been told about “Secret Spot”, a

recent addition to the Rotorua Mountain

Bike base area. Hidden behind a wall

that blends into the backdrop of the

Whakarewarewa Forest you’ll find

a unique hot tub experience. At the

entrance as you walk through the

waterfall, you know this has been created

by adventure loving people with a special

space to store your cleats.

Once behind the “wall” you feel like you

have stepped into a tropical paradise.

Boardwalks weave through the native

bush to uncover hidden treasures,

whether they be cosy nooks to sit and

enjoy a drink with your feet immersed

in one of the “shinny dips” or one of the

12 cedar hot tubs nestled in the bush.

It really is a unique environment. The

attention to detail and the attention to

service is obvious the minute you walk

through the door.

Left: The hot tubs at The Secret Spot / Right: The infamous "skinny dips"

We booked our hot tub, ordered a wine

and went to get changed (the changing

rooms are worthy of exploration even if

you are not having a spa). By the time

we were out our wines were waiting by

our hot tubs next to the button you could

press should you need to order another.

We sat there warming our tired bodies

and revelling in the unique secret spot

that was in our own backyards. Having

travelled a lot over the years I must say

Secret Spot rivalled anything I have seen

anywhere in the world. I just wished I

lived in Rotorua as I am sure it would

become my “local”.

The people behind this innovation are

adventurous Kiwi brothers, Keith and

Eric. They grew up on a farm next to

the Kaituna river; white water rafting,

kayaking, hunting, biking etc and at

the end of each adventure they would

manage to find a hot stream in the

bush or near a beach, a secret spot

that only a few locals knew about. Keith

explained how the Secret Spot came to

fruition. “The idea actually came to us in

a storm, as we froze while paddling the

Whakatane river through the Te Urewera

National Park in a Canadian canoe

together and needed warm thoughts to

keep us going.”

After repetitive warm beers in a dusty

car park at the end of a day mountain

biking, they decided to create a secret

spot of their own right at the base of their

favourite mountain bike park. Five years

later and their dream became a reality.

You have to visit this place to appreciate

it, it really is incredible. It’s hard to believe

this spot was once the end of a gravel car

park, the transformation is phenomenal.

"I wished I lived in

Rotorua, as I am sure

the Secret Spot would

become my local."

The forest of Rotorua have been

explored by foot and mountain

bike for many years, and more

recently the tree walk in the

Redwoods allowed people to

walk through the sub canopy

and see what life looked like

above the trees.

Rotorua Canopy Tours took

things one step further and

created a tour through virgin

native forest combining

environmental awareness with

swing bridges and ziplines.

There is something very unique

about seeing New Zealand’s

virgin forest from above. We

often look up to the canopy but

to look down on it is like visually

bathing in a sea of green. The

zip lines, elevated platforms and

rope swings high just add to the

experience.

We joined the Ultimate Tour, a

three and a half hour experience

which included 6 zip lines, a 50

metre high cliff walkway and 3

swing bridges in some of New

Zealand’s oldest native forest.

Along with our guides Kopi

and Teagan we were joined by

Cambridge couple, Martin and

Carol. It was an intimate look

at flora and fauna with a some

adrenaline thrown in for good

measure.

From their base in Rotorua, it’s

only a 15 minute drive to the

forest, carefully cared for by

the team at Rotorua Canopy

Tours. Throughout the tour the

staff kept us informed on our

surrounds; what plants were

growing, what wildlife could

be seen, we were even able

to feed a small black robin by

hand. The company has been

at the forefront of conservation,

doing what they can to help

the indigenous species in the

forest. We were stunned to learn

that each night, over 70,000

native birds are killed in our

native forests in New Zealand,

by introduced predators;

stoats, rats, possums being

the main perpetrators. They

also explained their trapping

programme and how successful

that had been in the region. It’s

nice to know that the money you

pay for a great days experience

goes back into help preserve

that wildlife for others to enjoy

as well.

The "cliff walk" on the Ultimate Tour with Rotorua Canopy Tours

Martin and Carol cross one of the many swing bridges


Left: A unique way to experience the virgin forests around Rotorua

Above: Heading out on the Lakeland Princess for a morning fishing.

Inserts top to bottom: The quinessenatial "old sea dog", and skipper Tom

It wasn't long before we were catching trout

While I was fishing, Tom was preparing lunch

Rotorua is also well-known for its

lakes, and boast 18 in the region.

So we couldn’t visit Rotorua without

spending some time on at least one

of them. Steve met Tom, the skipper

of the Lakeland Princess, at the

wharf at 8am sharp. Like all good

fishing tales, I’ll let him tell the story

in his own words…

“Now I know that Tom won’t

mind me referring to him as the

quintessential ‘Old Sea Dog’ (well

maybe not old but definitely a sea

dog). I wanted to photograph the

boat before we left but I could see

Tom was a little hesitant; like a

pretty girl in an ugly dress, might be

the best way to describe her. Tom

referred to her as ‘fugly’ but fugly

or not, this 9 meter, three hulled

cat, originating from the US, was as

stable as a dining room table.

I remarked that it looked like the

wind was getting up to which Tom

replied ‘good’. He then went on to

explain that the offshore winds blew

feed off the weed banks and into

the deep water. We put two rods

out with lures, 30m out the back of

the boat on lead lines. Tom further

explained that the water was only

4m deep. He showed me on the

sounder the weed beds and how we

were tracking the edge of them.

Tom had a story for every occasion,

and he was super interesting to chat

to. He told me he had been trained

by a guy who had a ‘no fish - no fee’

policy. I asked how often did that

happen, to which he replied ‘never’,

but sometimes we are out here for a

long time. No sooner had the words

left him mouth that we had a hit. He

stopped the boat, reeled the other

rod in while I played the trout to

the edge of the boat. It was netted

before being humanely ‘dispatched’.

Tom then filleted like a master (he

might have done it a few times

before), salting and sugaring the

fillets before leaving them to rest for

the upcoming lunch.

We cruised around the lake, not

another boat in sight, and continued

to reel in fish. Tom was quite happy

for us to keep them but we put them

all back as we already had enough

for lunch. With about an hour left. I

took the wheel of Fugly while Tom

prepared the smoker. The cabin

soon filled with the mouth-watering

smell of slowly smoking trout.

Tom laid out the lunch, a spread

of salads, and croissants, plus the

most delicious smoked trout I have

ever tasted. Tom’s secret recipe

(now no longer a secret) was two

parts sugar to one part salt, using

Pohutukawa sawdust instead of the

standard manuka as it makes the

fish taste sweeter, which it really

did.

We slowly cruised back to the wharf

after what had been a fantastic

morning seeing Rotorua from a

different aspect. I had made a new

friend, leant how to smoke trout the

proper way and caught a bunch of

fish, perfect.

If you are going to Rotorua, go

fishing or just go out cruising on

the Lakeland Princess, you won’t

regret it.”


Left to right: Relaxing in the Polynesian Pools before my spa treatment / The Redwoods nightlight treewalk

Whilst Steve was catching our lunch, I headed to the

Polynesian Pools and Spa for a treat of a different kind. The

Polynesian Spa commands a prime piece of real estate, right

on the shores of Lake Rotorua. My treatment began with a

soak in the Deluxe Lake Spa pools, ranging in temperature

from 38-41 degrees, each boating delightful views of the lake.

The only sound was the gentle trickle of water cascading

over the rocks as you moved. Signs asking for no music or no

talking on mobile phones set the scene for a very relaxing and

tranquil experience.

The idea of a dip before a body treatment is to relax the

muscles and really to get you in the zone for pampering, and

they certainly did that. I had an early morning appointment

which I would thoroughly recommend as it meant the pools

were almost empty. I sat in the pools overlooking the lake

wondering at the gulls swooping on a nearby outcrop before

heading inside for my treatment.

There are a variety of treatments on offer and the whole

process from start to finish leaves you feeling pampered and

calm. I was reluctant to leave the tranquillity of the spa and

could happily have spent the rest of the day relaxing in their

recliner chairs overlooking the lake, sipping on herbal tea.

Rotorua is an area that has always been rich in Maori culture,

and has built an international reputation as the cultural centre

of New Zealand, however the many closed doors of cultural

shows and centres stand as a stark reminder of the effects that

Covid has had on this part of New Zealand. But despite their

lack of international tourists, their catchcry “manaakitanga,”

which loosely translates to mean “hospitality,” still rings true

and we experienced this everywhere we went.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS:

Black Swan Lakeside Boutique Hotel: Perched on the edge

of Lake Rotorua, this boutique hotel offers a luxurious, tranquil

getaway with park-like gardens, complete with pool and spa pools

overlooking the lake. Named after the black swans that you can

hand feed from their jetty, this is somewhere that oozes intimate

luxury. Owned and hosted by Arthur, his attention to service and

detail is second to none. The restaurant on the upper level of the

hotel offers fine dining and panoramic views of the lake.

www.blackswanhotel.co.nz

Regent of Rotorua

This chic urban accommodation has a prime position in the heart

of Rotorua on the corner of the popular “Eat Streat”. Offering 35

rooms, a swimming pool and an award winning restaurant.

www.regentrotorua.co.nz

Terrace Kitchen

Situated opposite the marina you’ll find a real treasure of a

place. We had lunch at Terrace Kitchen on their private terrace

overlooking the large back lawn. The atmosphere and setting

were delightful, as was the food and service.

www.terrace.kitchen

We would like to thank all those people who helped make this trip

so memorable. For more information on everything there is to do

visit www.rotoruanz.com

Lakeland Princess Fishing Charters

www.lakelandprincesscharters2019.simdif.com

“Escape ordinary”

Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind

We finished our time in Rotorua with a trip back to experience

the Redwood Nightlight treewalk. The Redwoods Treewalk is

the longest suspended walkway in the world, consisting of 28

elevated swing bridges and platforms. At night it turns onto a

magical scene as thousands of lights flicker through the trees

create a truly unique experience.

I would encourage you to put Rotorua on your visit list and

come and explore the multitude of things there are to do in this

little piece of Kiwi paradise.


Volcanic Air

www.volcanicair.co.nz

Mountain Bike Rotorua

www.mtbrotorua.co.nz

Secret Spot Hot Tubs

www.secretspot.nz

Rotorua Canopy Tours

www.canopytours.co.nz

Polynesian Spa

www.polynesianspa.co.nz

Redwood Nightlights

www.treewalk.co.nz

1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua

p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz

hiking

TALES

Olivine Ice Plateau

By Mike Dawson and Alex Hillary

We were somewhere in the dense bush of New

Zealand’s wild West Coast; battling the unrelenting

undergrowth, sweaty, bleeding and tired… but stoked.

Despite knowing where we were geographically, we

felt lost in the wilderness. The countless dead ends

encountered as we searched for a route amongst the

bluffed-out ridges, landslips or cliffs. This emulated

the description of type 2 fun, a challenge that seemed

to be never ending. It was tough going We crashed

through the forest, our pace slowed to a mere 0.5km/

hr. It’s brutal. We’re dehydrated and hungry, but we’re

out here in our element getting amongst the very

best of what New Zealand has on offer as part of our

‘Extreme Tramping’ trip.

7 days earlier, in a rush of logistics and gear we’d

set out on an epic Covid inspired adventure into the

heart of New Zealand backcountry. As the Air NZ bird

descended into Queenstown, we got our first glimpse

of the terrain we were heading into. Our trip was

ambitious, but one that had been loosely spoken about

although never planned and with international travel off

the cards we decided to look a little closer and explore

our backyard. We were embarking on a traverse

through the Olivine Wilderness Area to Neil’s Beach on

the West Coast ‘when we arrived’. The 2 of us, myself,

Mike Dawson, and Alpinist Alex Hillary, were out on

a bit of a mission to journey to the hallowed ground

of New Zealand adventure in the heart of the remote

untouched and isolated wilderness zone. A place filled

with stunning scenery, steep terrain and home to many

good adventures.

This trip had a few moving parts; land in Queenstown,

pack as much Radix into our packs as possible, sort

pack rafts with Queenstown Packrafting and get to

Glenorchy. It couldn’t have been an easier start into

the elusive Olivine. We’d barely bought a Ferg Burger

before Huw and Harry from Queenstown Packrafting

had tee’d up our logistics and kit and had us standing

at the start of the Routeburn Track on dusk ready to

get amongst it.

The route from the Forgotten River Bivvy on the final

approach to the Olivine Ice Plateau. It’s a wild part of

New Zealand.


The Forgotten River Bivy providing home

for a few days.

"It’s a paradise

out there, albeit,

made up of brutal

and unrelenting

country."

Alex Hillary checks out the top of the Andy Glacier on the Olivine Ice Plateau.

Taking a moment to think about our route down to Lake Williamson and out route out to the West

Coast through the gorge.

The Route: The Olivine is somewhat

sacred. It’s the argued home to the

mountains of the gods. It’s a place of

wilderness and the wild terrain that goes

with it, big mountains, bad weather and

many failed trips. Choosing the right

route can make or break a mission to

the Olivine. It’s a paradise out there,

albeit, made up of brutal and unrelenting

terrain. It’s a place where short

distances turn into day-long ordeals and

the ‘should be all good from here’ never

quite eventuates into reality.

Off we went, clambering into the Beech

Forest and quickly moving from the

pristine Routeburn Track, over the

Sugarloaf Pass and into the Rock Burn.

Alex and I began to joke that just getting

to the foot of the Olivine Ice Plateau

with our brutally full packs would be a

challenge. 33kgs in total draped on our

shoulders, laden down with gear for

our multi discipline traverse. Climbing

gear, ice gear, rescue equipment, camp

equipment, camera kit emergency

equipment, and that’s all before we get

to the essentials such as food. Off we

went, towards the Barrier Range.

From here we disappeared into the

backcountry following the slowly

diminishing track through Theatre Flat,

over Park and Cow Passes before

dropping into the head waters of the

Olivine River and the Wilderness Zone.

Entering the Wilderness Zone made

us feel instantly more remote as we

floundered around attempting to follow

the Olivine river. Up until now it’s been

relatively easy going, but the river is

elusive as it disappears into gorges,

rapids and deep pools. For hours we

swam, climbed and negotiated our way

downstream constantly crossing it’s

crystal clear but freezing cold water from

side to side.

For 13hrs we battled our way down,

climbing around rapids and gorges or

hike-swimming through the pools, the

first tough section of the route we’d

chosen. We found ourselves negotiating

some difficult terrain and working our

way slowly to the confluence with

the Forgotten River and an epic little

camp spot right on dusk. Early the next

morning we started the journey into

the Forgotten and the higher up we

wandered into the valley, it was evident

this place had in fact been forgotten.

The sheer magnitude of the place,

it’s beauty and remoteness, truly

untouched. The mountain ranges

began to surround us, climbing steeply

into the sky before being engulfed in

rain and fog as horrific weather slowly

descended into the valley and set in

for the night. Up ahead the Olivine Ice

Plateau tried to break through the thick

cloud. We clambered through the wet,

Dinner time in paradise.

slippery and steep tussock sections just

enjoying the place! Finally we’d arrived

at our destination, but all we could do

was wait.

Camping out at the base of the Olivine

Ice Plateau in a historic Bivvy was a

well needed respite from the raging

storm outside, and the stiff muscles from

the walk in. This place was incredible,

a giant boulder wedged into the side

of the mountain creating a dry and

sheltered ‘bush hotel’. We ate, relaxed

and recovered from our previous 3 days

constantly peering through the clouds

to try and make out the Plateau some

1000m above.

From here we were heading into the

alpine area, over the Forgotten River

Col after climbing up the final 1000m

and working our way through the maze

of cliffs, bluffs, snow and streams. The

walk up was all time. As we got higher,

the sun began to burn off the thick cloud

and we could suddenly see where we

were. High up above the Forgotten

River Valley, the silence of nature

occasionally pierced with the sounds of

avalanching ice and the crunch of snow

under our crampons. Climax peak to the

East towered over the Thunder Glacier,

the Memorial Icefall ahead and our route

North-West down the plateau towards

Futurity Rock.


The weather was bluebird and clear. The

clouds had dissipated, and we were in

paradise as we began crossing the Plateau

slowly, roped up and constantly on watch

for hidden crevasses. The high clouds

circled above and began threatening to

deteriorate as we arrived at the edge of

the plateau. We’d successfully crossed

over, but the challenge was still ahead.

We stood on the edge of Futurity Rock,

as the horizon dropped off the edge of the

world down toward Lake Williamson far

below. We began working our way down

the couleur towards the Willamson River

and the outflow of the Andy Glacier. As

we descended towards the bushline of the

west coast we were constantly greeted

with massive drop offs, steep tussock lined

slopes, creeks and other tricky sections. We

traversed high above the cliff that flanks lake

Williamson before slowly dropping down to

the wild West Coast and it’s relentless bush.

The entire way we were in the presence of

the most incredible view of the Andy Glacier.

From here the physical work began. It was

going to be a slog fest through some dense

and rugged forest. We started down the

Williamson River and into the Arawhata

River. The hours slowly turned into days as

we spent the next 3 days fighting with the

land. The toughest section, without a doubt

was our route through 10hr Gorge. An epic

piece of whitewater on the Arawhata River

at the edge of the Wilderness Area. We

stayed low to scout it, a decision that led

to the torment of steep gullies, landslides,

bluffs and some ‘extreme tramping’. Many

hours later the gradient of the river slowly

subsided and we jumped in our packrafts

and started kayaking out to Niels Beach and

with-it civilisation 50kms away.

The Olivine Ice Plateau slowly emerging from behind the

lingering cloud as we get ready to head up and across.


"After 2 brutal days smashing through the

bush, Alex Hillary enjoys the relaxing float

down the Arawhata to the West Coast."

The food Ordeal: Getting to the Olivine is as much of the

challenge as getting across it. Its’ sheer remoteness and

with access only permitted by foot our expedition was faced

with a real problem, weight. On a trip like this the bare

minimum of equipment required to stay safe and energized

is phenomenal. We needed a product that could provide high

quality, high performing nutrition to function in an exposed,

remote and energy sapping environment. Radix was the

perfect addition. The highest of quality nutrients combined

with an incredible weight: calorie equation. We needed

performance out of our food and the expedition range

provided. 30+ meals were packed into the bottom of our

packs bringing our total pack weight to just over 33kgs – It

was going to be tough going.

Risk Exposure: On a trip of this magnitude, surrounded by

high exposure situation constantly, safety is no accident. It’s

important to be prepared for whatever can happen. You’re

remote and isolated traversing through some of the most

rugged and wild big country of the New Zealand wilderness.

Our journey saw us traveling by water, over ice, abseiling

through rivers, using a roadmap of alpine creeks and fighting

our way through the bush.

It’s vital to carry the right equipment, keep hydrated and

constantly fuelled. Our daily routine included ensuring we

broke for a Radix lunch to keep the energy up but make

sure we didn’t become clumsy or make mistakes late in the

day. An Inreach or Spot is a must if you’re heading out on

the mission. It’s also important to make sure you have a first

aid kit, emergency blanket and sleeping bag. Weather adds

to the mix. Any travel in the NZ Alpine is constantly battling

the ever-changing weather situations and this trip was no

different. Crossing the Ice Plateau our eyes were constantly

watching the changing skyline to beat the encroaching front.

To battle the weather it’s important to have the right gear

especially when you’re heading out into the bush.

This trip was multiple days of beautiful but tough trekking,

enjoying the best NZ has on offer, miles from anywhere. In

the end we solved the puzzle of the plateau with a solid plan,

a very lucky weather window, some stamina and supplies,

and it was all-time.

This trip was supported by Radix Nutrition, Pivotel Satellite,

Ortlieb, Queenstown Packrafting, Hillary Collection & Canon.

HIKE

PADDLE

EXPLORE

www.packraftingqueenstown.com

Packrafting

Queenstown

specialises in small

group packrafting

adventures,

instructional courses,

rentals and sales.

BIKING

TALES

Vista just past Ghost Lake Hut

the queenstown bike trail

By Lynne Dickinson - Images by Steve Dickinson

Officially opened in 2012, the Queenstown Bike Trail is one

of New Zealands’ 22 Great Rides. With a network of over

130km of off-road trails, it provides a safe and sustainable

way to explore the Wakatipu Basin from Queenstown,

through Arrowtown and out to the vineyards of Gibbston

Valley.

The beauty of the trail is its diversity, you will find something

to suit every level of experience and fitness and it really

showcases the beauty of the region. Regardless of the trail

you choose you will experience stunning mountain vistas,

turquoise lakes, rivers and swing bridges.

With so many riding options to choose from we relied on

the experts from Around the Basin to help us out. Based

in Queenstown, their team know the trails well and were

able to help us make a choice on the best option for our

group. After a little discussion we decided to shuttle out to

Arrowtown and follow the trail back to Queenstown, with a

few side stops along the way. More on that later…

Heaven’s Door

Crossing the Arrow River


"The beauty of the trail is

its diversity"

So we started our journey in picturesque Arrowtown, the

historic gold mining town that sits alongside the Arrow River.

Considered one of the most picturesque settlements it's

the perfect spot for a pre-bike coffee or a bite to eat before

heading off on the trail.

We were riding a mixture of mountain bikes and electric

bikes and although I was at first reluctant to use an e-bike,

I am now a definite convert. You can ride the whole way

without using the electric assistance, but seriously, why

would you. When we came to a slight hill or a more steeper

incline, all you have to do is press a button and you are

turbo charged up the incline. Perfect. What it allows is for

compatibility within your group, regardless of your fitness or

experience level, you are all able to enjoy the ride together.

Apart from the incredible scenery, while on the Queenstown

Bike Trail you feel like you are miles away from civilization,

when in reality the main road is never far away. We set out

from Arrowtown alongside the Arrow River before turning

back towards Queenstown riding along the Kawerau River.

The trail was challenging enough to keep us peddling yet

gentle enough to allow us to enjoy the numerous sights

along the way. The trail crosses some impressive swing

bridges making for a great riding experience.

At one point the trail veered away from the Kawerau River

and we found ourselves crossing the Shotover River via the

historic Shotover Bridge. The area is rich in history with the

bridge dating back to 1871 and offers incredible views over

the shotover river. The original bridge was washed away in

1878 and later replaced in 1915. The bridge, which is now

only open to foot and bike traffic, is 172 metres long and an

impressive 16 meters above the river below.

From here we rejoined the Kawerau River and biked along

the stony river bank where the twists and turns of the river

have created stone beaches and perfect access for fishing,

kayaking or a dip if you don’t mind the cold water. Be careful

of the current, the colour of the water is incredibly inviting,

yet the water is both cold and fast flowing in places.

We eventually reached the Kawerau Falls Bridge with the

sight of Queenstown in the distance. It was really the first

time we had felt like we were near civilisation in the whole

trip. We crossed the old historic 90 year old Kawarau Falls

Bridge, that has been maintained alongside the fancy new

expressway and biked down for our first real stop of the day.

This is one of the things I absolutely love about the

Queenstown trail. There is not only incredible scenery but

there are also plenty of fantastic places to stop along the

way. We were heading to the Three Miners Cellar door at the

Hilton Hotel where we were meeting the hostess and winery

owner, Kirstin for some wine tasting. We left our bikes at the

door and before long we were relaxing with a glass of wine

in hand listening to the story of the Three Miners Vineyard.

Quite an interesting tale and worth a ride out to hear all

about it.

equip

yourself!

our recommendations

During our stay in Queenstown we resided at the Dairy

Private Hotel, a unique boutique hotel in the centre of

Queenstown, an easy walk to all amenities and wonderfully

hosted by Maria. www.naumihotels.com We also ate at some

pretty amazing places. Check out our recommendations...

Boardwalk

Around The Basin aim to give any level of rider the opportunity

to experience Queenstown’s stunning trails by helping them

choose the ride most suited to their ability with as much or as

little support as desired along the way. In addition to bike rental

they offer winery bike tours and bike and shuttle packages

between Queenstown, Arrowtown, Gibbston and Jacks Point –

these self-guided rides are perfect for the independent rider. For

those that prefer a complete package with full care and attention

throughout the entire ride their supported Bike The Bridges or

Basin Explorer tours are the ideal choice. These supported tours

can also be fully guided for that extra personal experience.

www.aroundthebasin.co.nz

Boardwalk: In one of the best locations in Queenstown you’ll find

Boardwalk, situated on the upper level of Steamer Wharf. The views from

the restaurant are spectacular and overlook the water where the TSS

Earnslaw docks with the mountains creating a spectacular backdrop in

the distance.Before you rush upstairs to the main event, visit the Oyster

Bar underneath the main restaurant serving freshly shucked oysters and

champagne. The only way to describe it is decadent! However it is a great

prelude to what is on offer upstairs.

The main restaurant upstairs offers an ever evolving menu of seafood

and meats created into a contemporary meal experience. The

environment is serene and although it offers a fine dining experience, it’s

not a place with any pretence. You will fit in whether you are in jeans or

you’ve gone all out and got dressed up. The wait staff are attentive and

the wine menu extensive.

www.boardwalkqueenstown.nz

The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro

Three Miners Cellar Door

The entrance to Flame Bar and Grill and their bombe Alaska dessert

Taking a break alongside the Kawerau River

Refreshed we got back on our bikes and headed back to the other side of the

bridge and cruised on to lunch at The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro. Nestled on the

shores of Lake Wakatipu, it was a perfect spot to both enjoy the view and the food

but also to reflect on our fantastic day before the final few kilometres back into

town.

Low Prices Everyday

Free NZ Shipping on

orders over $150 for

members

Members Earn Equip+

Loyalty Points

shop online or instore

equipoutdoors.co.nz

62 Killarney Road,

Frankton, Hamilton,

New Zealand

P: 0800 22 67 68

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

People often confuse mountain biking with ‘extreme’, and it can be. However, it

can also be a spectacular way to see a region, the smells, the sounds, all those

small ingredients to go to make a great trip. You see a lot of Queenstown touring

in a car but you will get to really ‘experience’ it on two wheels.

Lunch at The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro

We started in Arrowtown and followed

the Arrow River Bridge ride before

turning onto the Twin River ride towards

Queenstown. Here we crossed the

bridge to the Hilton for wine tasting at

the Three Minors before joining the Lake

Wakatipu ride back into town.

The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro:

Nestled on the northern shores of

Lake Wakatipu, the Boat Shed sits

on the waters edge and food is as

good as the view. The lake, the

mountains, the rugged little wharf

all go to create a very comfortable

friendly environment. The food,

(The Boat Shed’s words not mine)

is “good food- well done’ and I think

that sums up the ambience of the

place. The menu is not huge but

everything on it looked excellent.

For those of us who had not been

before we were very aware not to

get ‘food envy’ and there was a lot

of discussion with the friendly staff

as to what to order. A great place for

a casual lunch!

www.boatshedqueenstown.co.nz

Three Miners Wine tasting

at the Hilton: As part of our

mountain bike trip we visited the

cellar door of the Three Miners

situated inside the Hilton Hotel.

It’s a clever move to have the

cellar door of the actual vineyard

is on the banks of the Clutha

river. Three Miners Vineyard was

mined for gold in the 1860's. The

Three Miners wines take their

names from this historic land

use. There was obviously more

money in wine than gold! We

met Kristin Wright the ownerand

she took us through a range of

their wines, it was delicious. The

setting in the Hilton is plush,

comfortable and intimate. We

got to know Kristine and found

out how a professor came to

own a vineyard. E had the Three

Miners legacy explained and

bought wine. We liked it so much

we went back the next day and

did it all again.

www.threeminors.com

Flame: From the moment

you walk in the doors Flame

is bursting with vibrancy and

it was packed (so book).

The open kitchen is alive

with action and flames, you

don't need to look at the

menu to see the food is good

because the smell alone is

divine.

It is always great to meet

the owner of a successful

restaurant as success is

not just served up on a

plate it needs to be earned

by hard work and passion.

Jonathan Bisley had both of

those attributes in buckets.

His passion for what he

had created and was still

creating was contagious. He

told us about the staff, the

history, and the significance

of the rhino on the wal, but

mostly he told us about the

food, where the meat came

from, how it was cooked

and how the standards were

maintained.

I have eaten ribs everywhere

in the world, they are my

‘go to food’ but never have

I eaten any as good as

what Flame has on offer.

We foolishly suggest that

Jonathan order for us and as

plate after plate of the most

delicious food flowed from

the kitchen, we realised

we had bitten off more than

we could chew - but it was

‘oh so good’ As the evening

came to a close Joanathn

arrived with a “Flame”

bombe Alaska dessert - and

bombe Alaska shaped like

a flame that was then set

alight. It tasted as good as it

looked, superb!

www.flamegrill.co.nz

For a full list of activities visit Destination Queenstown www.queenstownnz.co.nz


CLIMBING

TALES

Above: Sven Hansen and Patrick Hobbs spent 6 months preparing for their Mt. Aspiring Ascent. Good health,

gym work, physio and massage were essentials.

Right: Sven, Patrick, Will and James at the top of the buttress.

Climbing Mt. Aspiring in a

shrinking weather window

Two good friends. Six months of preparation. A small weather window and only one day

to summit Mt. Aspiring. Sven Hansen and Patrick Hobbs were determined to get the job

done when they wanted to summit Tititea.

By Sven Hansen

At 3033m, Mt Aspiring is New Zealand’s highest

peak outside of the Aoraki/Mount Cook region. It is

often called the Matterhorn of the South, and it is an

intimidating mountain of soaring rock and ice.

Six months ago, Patrick posed the question.

Somewhat naively, I said yes. It took months for

the reality of this commitment to bite. Without much

heavy walking or climbing in decades, it was obvious

that a significant amount of training was required.

Fear became my friend.

Over four months, we set about more serious

training with the support of friends and our wives,

Sonya and Susan. At age 61, gym work, physio and

massage became essential. Finally, it was time for

the ascent.

We meet James and Will from Aspiring Guides,

based in Wanaka. They were friendly and somewhat

sceptical of these two enthusiastic old geezers.

Ready to dash if the weather clears, hope is crushed

by low clouds. On the way back to Wanaka from

weighing at the helicopter base, Will decided that

some rock climbing would be in order. He marched

us in our heavy alpine climbing boots, harnesses and

helmets to a 10 m, grade 14 crack in a vertical rock

face. “You must be kidding!” was all I could think.

Nevertheless, we both scaled this test twice – albeit

without grace. Our guides, though, seemed satisfied

and sent us to bed for a 5 am start.

After our helicopter ride at 6.30 am, we began

crossing the Bonar Glacier. Pretty relaxing and aweinspiring

as we march toward the looming monster

of Tititea.

Then we lightened our packs by storing our sleeping

bags, extra food and gear, under some rocks, before

starting our 1300m ascent to the top. We headed up

an icy, endless slope toward the base of the North-

West route. Now on all fours with ice-axes as we

crawled up to the ridge. A glorious day. Magnificent

views of our Southern Alps bloomed around us under

an azure-blue sky.

No rest for the climbers as we confronted the

Buttress. She is intimidating from 50 km, let alone

when you look straight up the jagged rock face.


we ARE climbing

Summit selfies at 3033 meters.

This grade 13, massive ridge of rock is

crumbling and black with hundreds of

meters dropping off either side. We roped

up to our guides, very focused, breathing

slowly, and moved only one limb at a time.

We spent two hours climbing vertical and

fractured schist rock. Yet, it was glorious,

calm, and warm. The views demand awe

and attention.

Eventually, we hit the snowy ramp, the

last few hundred metres, leading us to the

summit. Crampons and ice-axes got back

on to trudge up a narrow ramp straight up

the North-West ridge. We felt the altitude

and struggled to control our breath as

we creeped upwards. The extraordinary

beauty continues to stop us in our tracks.

Then, somewhat suddenly, we were at the

top. It was a small icy platform with space

dropping into eternity on every side.

Absolutely jaw-dropping. One can see

coast to coast and up and down the great

peaks of Aotearoa. Mt Cook suggests that

she too is there when we are ready. We

have summited Tititea!

Relaxing and absorbing a moment on

the roof of our world was a rare delight.

A light wind cooled us down. The colours

so clear. The expanse so vast. The peaks

endless.

Too soon, it was time to head down. Have

to get serious quickly. It was steep, and

we had to move fast to get back to Colin

Todd Hut. The ice was now soft, and we

made good headway down the ramp.

I was very conscious of the challenges

of the Buttress wall below, it looked

more threatening from above, my legs

were tired, courage had to be found, and

refocusing was required. Good to have

expert guides.

We picked our way down, enjoying

two wonderful 30m abseils. Hundreds

of meters of fresh air claw and suck at

our boots. Then down to the glacier to

collect our gear and back up to the hut.

Unbelievably we have it to ourselves.

Rest, food, camaraderie, and sleep are

very welcome, after twelve hours on our

feet.

Thank you, Pat, James, Will, Aspiring

Guides and our incredibly supportive

partners Sonya and Susan. This is one

we will not forget. We wonder what is

next…

ASPIRING GUIDES

Aspiring Guides is a long-time mountain

guiding company that has been based

in Wanaka for over 30 years. Aspiring

Guides provides guided ascents of

New Zealand's highest mountains

and iconic peaks such as Mt Cook, Mt

Aspiring and Mt Tasman as well as

offering comprehensive mountaineering

instruction, climbing courses and multiday

wilderness hiking adventures in the

spectacular NZ Southern Alps.

Alec McCallum sends

Dr Strangelove (32) second go

Photo: Tom Hoyle

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.

OFFICIAL GEAR SUPPLIER

STORES NATIONWIDE

www.bivouac.co.nz


1. We’ve kept it beautiful for you.

Vanuatu is famous for its untouched

beauty. The Ni-Vanuatu people have

a deep respect for the land – so you’ll

find everything as nature intended.

2. A great place for the whole family.

Vanuatu is a place of connection, where

amazing experiences are best shared.

With so much to see and do – in a place

where everyone is made to feel welcome

– it really is the perfect family holiday (or

extended family).

3. Start living again

It’s time to rediscover your passions and

make up for the past year. And what

better place than Vanuatu’s 83 islands of

adventure? From swimming, diving and

sailing, to hiking, cycling and horse riding,

get out there and do the things you love.

10 great reasons to save a

spot in Vanuatu

As we welcome in a new year, it’s time to

start dreaming of better days ahead. If you

plan to dive headlong into an overseas

adventure, Vanuatu should be right up

there on your shortlist. We’ve got all

our COVID safe plans in place and look

forward to welcoming you back when the

borders open again. Here are 10 great

reasons to answer the call of Vanuatu:

4. Widen your circle of friends

Many a lifelong friendship has been made

between the Ni-Vanuatu people and our

close neighbours in Australia and New

Zealand. Our gratitude to every visitor

supporting our country is reflected in

every friendly smile and warm welcome.


5. Discover ancient cultures and

traditions

Just because you can’t fly long haul

doesn’t mean you can’t be a world away.

A few short hours from NZ, Vanuatu offers

a traditional way of living so very different

to your own – with mystical kastom and

culture at the heart of everyday life.

To everyone eagerly dusting off their passport,

If this last year has taught us anything, it is the value of human connection. We’ve all missed sharing good

times with friends and family. And the thrill of exploring our beautiful world to meet new people.

6. Make 2021 extraordinary

Make 2021 a year to remember by planning all

those amazing things you’ve been dreaming

about but haven’t been able to do. Extraordinary

adventures await in Vanuatu.

7. Give your mind a holiday

It’s time to sweep away all

those negative sentiments

and let your mind wander.

Whether you’re floating

downriver through a

rainforest, kayaking between

islands or hiking through

waterfalls, Vanuatu offers

many incredible ways to

revitalise your spirit.

As things start to return to normal, we’ve made sure our welcome party is ready and waiting. The people of

Vanuatu have forged many strong bonds with our close neighbours in Australia and New Zealand, and can’t

wait to invite you back. Nothing makes us happier than sharing our beautiful country with friends.

So please keep us on your list when international travel is deemed safe for both you and us. We know a

thing or two about how to let your hair down and throw yourself headlong into the moment – something

we are all longing to do. You don’t always need music to dance.

From our white sandy beaches to our pristine rainforests and rumbling volcanos, we have kept it beautiful

for you. All our COVID Safe Plans are also in place, to ensure you can enjoy a safe, clean and caring Vanuatu.

If it’s your first time to Vanuatu, we’d love to introduce you to our kastom and culture, natural wonders and

relaxed way of life. And at the end of the day, talk about it over a drink or a shell of kava. You really don’t

need to go far to experience a different way of living.

8. Lets go

Leap from a rope swing into a

blue hole. Explore caves, dive on

reefs and laugh with the locals.

Stand on the edge of a live

volcano. Life’s so much more fun

when you learn to let go.

We would love you to answer the call of Vanuatu in 2021. We think there is no better place to find your

travel groove again. From everyone at the Vanuatu Tourism Office, we wish you happy travels and look

forward to welcoming you to our islands very soon.

Discover our islands of adventure

at vanuatu.travel

9. Laugh till your cheeks hurt

Aside from natural wonders and breathtaking

views, the most common sight here is the

Vanuatu smile. It’s everywhere. Island life is

filled with fun and good times – and it’s high

time you joined the party

10. Who needs a

reason

Who are we to tell

you why you need a

holiday? Whatever

the reason for your

getaway – whether

it’s a romantic retreat,

peace and quiet

or an adrenaline

adventure – Vanuatu

offers something for

everyone.


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.

Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will

have you covered.

www.hokaoneone.co.nz

Earth Sea Sky has more than 25 years experience

in New Zealand’s outdoor clothing industry. Their

experience in design, production and sales fills a

growing need in the market for outdoor clothing that

combined comfort, style and performance.

www.earthseasky.co.nz

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

A leading importer and

distributor of snow and

outdoor products in New

Zealand. Stock includes

Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,

Spyder and more.

www.bobo.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

The ultimate sandals

with core concepts like

durability, pull through

strap design and the ability

to re-sole.

www.chacos.co.nz

Full-service outfitter selling hiking

and mountaineering gear and

apparel, plus equipment rentals.

Specialising in ski & snowboard

touring equipment new & used;

skis, boards, bindings, skins,

probs, shovels,transceivers &

avalanche packs.

www.smallplanetsports.com

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and

tested in New Zealand since 1973.

www.macpac.co.nz

The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing

and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,

snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.

www.marmotnz.co.nz

Developing the pinnacle

of innovative outerwear for

50 years. Shop now and

never stop exploring.

www.thenorthface.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Offering the widest variety,

best tasting, and most

nutrient rich hydration,

energy, and recovery

products on the market.

www.guenergy.co.nz

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Jetboil builds super-dependable

backpacking stoves and camping

systems that pack light,

set up quick, and achieve

rapid boils in minutes.

www.jetboilnz.co.nz

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

MTOUTDOORS

Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski

rental, ski touring and climbing.

www.mtoutdoors.co.nz

Making great gear for the outdoors,

right here in New Zealand: high

quality items that have been

crafted with care to include all the

features that are important, nothing

superfluous and, above all, that

are more durable than anything out

there in the marketplace.

www.cactusoutdoors.co.nz

Choose your perfect holiday accommodation from the

largest selection of pre-serviced holiday homes, baches,

and apartments available for rent in New Zealand. Book

instantly online with Bachcare's real-time availability.

www.bachcare.co.nz

Excellent quality Outdoor

Gear at prices that can't

be beaten. End of lines.

Ex Demos. Samples. Last

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.

Ahnu. Superfeet.

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz


Xmas gift GUIDE

Outdoor Research

ActiveIce Spectrum Sun Gloves

Innovative fabric that cools you

as it wicks away perspiration and

provides UPF 50+ protection from

the sun's harsh rays. Fingerless with

an anti-slip palm print. Extra length

wrist for additional sun protection.

RRP $44.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Black Diamond Storm 400 Headlamp

Burly, water- and dust-proof compact housing for

rugged adventures plus a maximum 400 lumens of

bright light. Features include a secondary switch for

easy mode selection, a 6-setting, 3-LED battery meter,

three different coloured night vision modes, peripheral

white lighting for close-range activities. 120gm

(including 4 x AAA)

RRP $99.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Sou'west PrimaLoft® Hooded Jacket - women's

Designed for hiking, this synthetic jacket features PrimaLoft®

Silver insulation with 70% post-consumer recycled content

(PCR) for a great warmth-to-weight ratio in cold, damp

conditions. This PrimaLoft® insulation is breathable, water

resistant and packable.

RRP $299.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Scarpa Vapor V Rock Climbing Shoe

Asymmetrical, slightly down-turned

shape and a medium-to-low angled

toe box to strike a balance between

confident smearing and refined toe

power. Men’s and women’s specific

models available.

RRP $279.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Rab Arc Jacket

Arc Jacket is a stretch waterproof

jacket with pared-down features,

designed as the ideal lightweight

and easily packable jacket for

multi-season active use.

RRP $399.95

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

Rab Momentum Pull-on

The Momentum Pull-On is

designed for those looking for

that extra layer of protection in

varied conditions.Made from

durable, wind-resistant Matrix

softshell with a UPF50+, this

versatile layer protects from

both the wind and sun while

highly breathable Motiv side

panels ensure full freedom of

movement. Ideal for breezy

MTB days.

RRP $139.95


Macpac Sou'west PrimaLoft® Vest — Men's

Featuring PrimaLoft® Silver synthetic insulation and

100% recycled fabrics, the Sou'west Vest offers

strategic core warmth when the temperature cools off.

Featuring a water repellent finish to help shed moisture.

RRP $229.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Outdoor Research Performance Trucker Cap

Go with the Flow! Breathable, lightweight,

quick-drying cap with a comfortable FlexFit®

110 construction and a floating, water-resistant

performance. Just what you need to keep sun and

water off your face or adventuring on water.

RRP $49.95

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Rab Sawtooth Pants

The Sawtooth Pant is an

extremely versatile and

lightweight softshell pant, using

Matrix DWS fabric for high

levels of wind resistance and

breathability.

RRP $239.95



Back Country Cuisine

CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried

chicken and pasta dish, served in a creamy

italian style sauce. Available in small serve

90g or regular serve 175g sizes.

MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:

Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,

served with noodles. Available in small

serve 90g or regular serve 175g sizes.

RRP $9.29 and $13.89

CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our

take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,

with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and

chocolate sauce. Gluten Free. Available in

regular serve.

RRP 150g $12.89

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Primus Essential Trail Stove Set

Sturdy everyday stove set – Compact – Sturdy

This kit consists of the Essential Trail Stove and the 1.0L

aluminium pot with frying pan. The pot can house both the

stove and a 230g cartridge when not in use.

Boiling time: 3:30min

Output: 2500w

Weight: 112g

Dimensions: 108 diameter x 60 height

RRP $149.95

WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ

NZ'S NO. 1

ADVENTURE

MEALS

Wherever your next

adventure is about to

lead you, we’ve got the

goods to keep you

going.

Back Country Cuisine

ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made with

chocolate and coffee combined with soft

serve to give you a tasty drink on the run.

Gluten Free. 85g.

RRP $4.09

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Deep creek undercurrent

AWARD WINNING PILSNER

ABV: 5.0%

330ml Cans I 6 Packs

50L Kegs I 30L Key Kegs

Trophy for Best International

Lager at the Australian

International Beer Awards 2019!

This New Zealand pilsner is

derived from the traditional

Czech style. Brewed with pilsner

malt and cold-fermented with

lager yeast; but that's where the

tradition ends. We use all New

Zealand hops and put most of

them late in the brew to promote

more hop flavour and aroma

than you would expect from a

traditional pilsner.

Crisp and clean with a distinctive

New Zealand hop character.

Available in local liquor stores or

supermarkets.

WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ

Deep creek Señorita

Chilli Hazy IPA

ABV: 6.5%

Señorita is our latest Hazy

IPA creation.Beautifully

smooth, with a fiery edge.

This is one sexy brew.

We've used a combination

of both US and NZ hops,

giving flavours of mango,

passionfruit, and citrus,

finishing with our very own

chilli tincture to spice up

your life. Chili flavor tends to

set at the bottom, if you are

looking for that really spicy

taste, we recommend giving

the can a good swirl around

before emptying the last

quarter or so.

WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ

Primus Essential Trek Pot Set 1.6L

Fits easily inside backpack

Includes 0.6L pot and 1.0L pot plus a frying pan. All handle

are removeable, can be configured multiple ways or can

secure everything together when packed.

Weight: 410g


RRP $149.95


Primus Firestick

Trekking stove that fits in any pocket -

Ultra-packable

This stove is the new standard for

compact outdoor stoves. Mount on top

of any gas canister & fire it up with the

single-handed use Piezo igniter.

Comes with wool storage pouch.

Boiling time: 3:30min

Output: 2500w

Weight: 105g


RRP $199.95


“First aid kit... on the go”

Est. 1998 Back Country

Cuisine specialises in

a range of freeze-dried

products, from tasty

meals to snacks and

everything in between, to

keep your energy levels

up and your adventures

wild.

backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh

Solar Power Bank

Built tough for the outdoors and

with a massive battery capacity

you can keep all your devices

charged no matter where your

adventure takes you.

RRP: $119.00

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt

Solar Charger

Capable of charging your smartphone

and USB gadgets straight from the

sun, making it perfect for hiking,

camping, or an emergency situation.

RRP: $199.00

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

Use coupon code: Balm

Get a free Manuka Balm 12g handy

tin and free NZ ship with purchase of

$30 or more

goodbye.co.nz

goodbye ouch sun balm

Six years in development, outdoor

guides and product makers John

and Becky created a world first

suncreen formulation. This is one

you can rely on. With high water

resistance, it will protect you in

water environments and not run

into eyes when you sweat. It is

fully tested to the New Zealand

sunscreen standard, certified

natural by NATRUE and with

its cocoa butter and coconut

oils it smells amazing and

glides over skin to give smooth,

clear protective coverage. It

is a water-free formula giving

antioxidant support in efficient

applications and small carry

sizes for life outdoors.Available in

supermarkets and health stores in

New Zealand, or online at

WWW.GOODBYE.CO.NZ

Helinox Chair Zero

CHAIR ZERO will never

make you choose between

comfort and weight.

Smaller and lighter than a

water bottle, it's what your

body craves at the end of a

long day of trekking.

•The lightest Helinox chair

•Compact size &

featherweight design

makes for an easy carry

•Easy to assemble with single shock

corded pole structure

•Frame constructed from DAC aluminum

poles

•Seat made from Ripstop Polyester

•Backed by a 5 year warranty

RRP $199.99

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/HELINOX/

A narrow flame fits small

pots well and works better

in windy conditions

The pot support

provides the flame

with good wind

protection

NEW!

CRAFTED FOR A REASON!

INTRODUCING THE NEW FIRESTICK

A stove that fits in any pocket

During our adventures, we pack and unpack our equipment many times.

With that in mind, we have designed a series of products even lighter,

smoother and more foldable to fit into the smaller pockets of our backpacks.

The design makes for

a stove that is compact

and as light as possible

Our latest control valve

allows for an extensive

precise flame adjustment

Radix Nutrition keto 400

Grass-Fed Lamb, Mint & Rosemary

These 400kcal meals are the ideal

option for someone on a low carb

diet. They feature 8g of carbs, 28g fat

and 24g protein.

RRP $11.90

WWW.RADIXNUTRITION.COM

Radix Nutrition performance

Mixed Berry Breakfast

Our Performance range is designed

to enable optimal energy levels,

muscle preservation, repair, recovery

and mental function.

RRP $14.90


Regulated valve

for enhanced

performance

The minimalistic design

with few parts makes

the stove robust

105g

2500W

03:30min

1h 15min on 230g

Ø 36 x 103mm

piezo ignition

1-2 people

Essential

trail STOVE

Essential

trek pot set 1.6L

Essential

trail stove set

Essential

trek pot 1L

NEW!

NEW!

NEW!

NEW!

Radix Nutrition performance 600

Mexican Chilli with Organic Beef

These 600kcal meals are the perfect

lunch or dinner option for hikers and

adventurers wanting to take their

performance to the next level.

RRP $14.90


Radix Nutrition EXPEDITION 800

Plant-Based Turkish Style Falafel

These 800kcal meals are designed

for extreme energy requirements.

They’re light weight, taste delicious

and suitable in all environments.

RRP $15.90


*GAS NOT INCLUDED

PRIMUS IS AVAILABLE THROUGH ALL GOOD OUTDOOR RETAILERS NATIONWIDE!

FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ

RAB ARK Emergency Bivi

Made with lightweight PE

(Polyethylene), the ARK

Emergency Bivi bag is wind and

waterproof and reflects body heat.

Super packable, folding down

12x6cm in its stuff sack, and

lightweight at 105g.

RRP $19.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow

A luxurious high-performance pillow without the weight and

bulk. Perfect for travel and camping where you can risk a

couple more grams for a great night's sleep. The pillowcase

construction allows the outer shell to retain maximum softness

while still being supported by a high strength TPU bladder.

RRP $64.99

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/SEA-TO-SUMMIT/

Sea to Summit Reactor Liner

The Reactor adds up to 8°C of warmth to

a sleeping bag or can be used alone as a

warm weather bag. Our bestselling sleeping

bag liner!

•Adds warmth to a sleeping bag

•Mummy shape with a box foot

•Draw cord hood with mini cord lock

•Packs into its own UltraSil® stuff sack

•Lighter in weight, more packable than fleece

•Machine washable

RRP $99.99

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/

SEA-TO-SUMMIT/

Exped Comfort -0 Down Sleeping Bag

Extra roomy maintaining the thermal

efficiency of a mummy bag, separate foot

zip and side arm zip opposite the main zip

lets allows both arms out without leaving the

warmth of the bag. 3D footbox to keep your

feet warm. 960gm (medium)

RRP $599.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

RAB Neutrino 200

The Neutrino 200 is a light-weight,

minimalist down-filled sleeping bag,

designed for light-weight end uses,

where warmth-to-weight is a prime

concern.

RRP $699.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

GMO

BPA


TECH REVIEW: solstice tent range by macpac

The new Solstice tent range follows the same

design philosophy as Macpac's well-loved hiking

tents - quality components, durable materials

and considered features. Once pitched, these

tents maximise livable space, airflow and

internal organisation.

Features include:

• Easy to pitch

• Freestanding design

• A convenient "hanging inner"

• Lightweight aluminium poles

• Waterproof fly and floor

• Durable duffel bag for storage

STRONG & LIGHT

macpac solstice 6

A spacious family tent that sleeps up to six people, with an optional internal room

divider for extra privacy. The Solstice 6 features air vents, a large back window and

includes two extra poles to turn the front vestible into a shade awning.

RRP $1399.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

R A V E N 3 G T X

macpac solstice 8

A large, multi-room tent, which balances space with strength, stability and weight, the

Solstice 8 is comfortable for four to six people or snug for eight. The tent features air

vents and a large back window, and includes two extra poles to turn the front vestible

into a shade awning.

RRP $1899.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions

b obo.co.nz/salewa

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Juno Strap Women’s - Black

The Juno is no ordinary sandal. Sink into cloud-like comfort

with soft leather uppers and our COMFORTBASE footbed,

the Juno will contour to the foot for all-day comfort while

adding a touch of style to any outfit.

RRP $239.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

SALEWA MENS MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2

The men’s MTN Trainer 2 is a comfortable alpine shoe for

technical hikes, via ferratas and treks. The leather upper has a

full protective rubber rand for 360° abrasion resistance in rocky

terrain and a breathable mesh lining. Our signature 3F system

connects the instep area with the sole and heel for flexibility,

correct fit and support; and the Vibram® outsole is engineered for

prolonged heavy use.

Fit: Standard / Weight: 438 g

RRP $349.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

salewa WOMENS ALPENROSE 2 MID GTX

Our Alpenrose 2 Mid GORE-TEX® is a dedicated women’s shoe

with a specific, feminine design to provide waterproof, breathable

protection for speed hiking and fast-moving mountain activities.

It has a lightweight, robust, fabric upper and a GORE-TEX®

Extended Comfort membrane. The Pomoca speed hiking outsole

offers superior traction, it’s aggressive lugs, grooves and sculptures

perform well in a wide range of terrain and weather conditions.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (W) 366 g

RRP $389.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

Kalari Shaw Strap Women’s - Brindle

Fit to keep up with your everyday with adjustable leather straps

and our leather wrapped COMFORTBASE footbed, the Kalari

Shaw sandal will contour to the foot for all-day comfort.

RRP $209.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

Merrell Choprock Shandal Men’s

A performance summer hiker for days spent around water, the

capable Choprock is designed to both drain and dry quickly,

protect your feet from debris and grip on slick terrain.

RRP $249.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE GTX

Welcome to the lightweight version of our classic MTN Trainer.

It has a robust fabric upper to ensure good wear resistance,

while the GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining will keep

you dry and comfortable. Climbing lacing allows you to finetune

right down to the toe for greater precision in technical

rocky terrain. Underfoot the shoe has a shock-absorbing EVA

midsole, and a durable Pomoca outsole.

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 448 g (pictured) (W) 368 g

RRP $339.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

TARGHEE III MID Men’s

Out of the box comfort for your outside the box adventures.

Our iconic hiking boot for men brings an updated look to

all-terrain adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and

performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot

and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:

• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane

that lets vapor out without letting water in.

• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support

mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent

arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.

Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.

RRP $319.99

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

TARGHEE III MID woMen’s

The Targhee Boot is ready for any hike, anytime. Our

iconic hiking boot for women brings an updated look to allterrain

adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and

performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot

and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:

• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane

that lets vapor out without letting water in.

• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support

mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent

arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.

Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.

RRP $319.99

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

Merrell Choprock Women’s - Blue Smoke

A performance summer hiker for days spent around water, the

capable Choprock is designed to both drain and dry quickly,

protect your feet from debris and grip on slick terrain.

RRP $249.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 GTX

Our MTN Trainer 2 is a hard-wearing and versatile low-cut

alpine approach shoe with a high-quality 1.6-millimetre suede

leather upper and a Vibram® outsole. Its robust upper has a

full protective rubber rand for 360° abrasion resistance in rocky

terrain, plus a fast-drying GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining

for durable waterproofing and optimized breathability.

Our signature 3F system connects the instep area with the sole

and heel for flexibility, correct fit and support, and the climbing

lacing can be fine-tuned at the toe for greater precision and

support in technical terrain.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 458 g (W) 396 g

RRP $399.90


salewa ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX

The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch

fabric upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-

TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and

breathability, and customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with

interchangeable layers allows you to adapt it to the unique shape

of your foot; Climbing Lacing right to the toe allows for a more

precise fit, while the Vibram® Hike Approach outsole covers a

wide spectrum of mountain terrain.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured)

RRP $399.90


Lowe Alpine aeon 27

Constructed with lightweight

yet durable abrasion-resistant

nylon, coated in Lowe Alpine’s

unique TriShield® which

further increases durability

and tear resistance.

RRP $259.95


Lowe Alpine Airzone Trail 35

A proven single-buckle, top-loading

entry combined with an extremely

breathable and comfortable AirZone

back system make this our most

popular hiking pack off all time.

RRP $269.95


SUBSCRIBE

AND BE IN THE DRAW TO WIN THIS INCREDIBLE PACK FROM

EDMUND HILLARY

THE LEGEND

CONTINUES

Edmund Hillary was a mountaineer from

New Zealand who, with his climbing partner

Tenzing Norgay, became the first to climb

the world's highest mountain. Their ascent

of Everest on 29 May, 1953 was one of the

greatest achievements of the 20th century.

Edmund Hillary (www.edmundhillary.com)

is a premium lifestyle clothing label that

embraces the pioneering spirit and the

positive human values of Sir Edmund Hillary

whilst creating longevity and authenticity

into every product made. 2% of proceeds go

to causes close to Ed’s heart – supporting

Himalayan communities and youth outdoor

education initiatives.

exped Metro 30 Daypack

Designed to be your everyday

companion while being versatile enough

to go for a day trip. It features a durable,

water-repellent, bluesign®-certified

fabric, a roll-top closure and an outsideaccessible

padded laptop sleeve. A

number of outside and inside pockets

keep your other gear organised.

RRP $159.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

osprey Daylite Pack

Lightweight, uncomplicated, durable and with

a comfortable carry, Osprey’s Daylite pack has

proven to be wildly popular. It continues to serve

well as an add-on pack for traveling as well as

standing on their own with their incredible versatility.

RRP $99.99

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY/

osprey Talon 22 | Tempest 20

Whether you’re bagging peaks or bikepacking, the

Talon 22 is the perfect carry solution. This lightweight

pack features a breathable, close-to-body AirScape®

backpanel and continuous-wrap harness and hipbelt

that moves with you. Trekking pole, ice axe and bike

helmet attachment points make this a truly multisport

pack. Constructed with high-quality bluesign®approved

recycled high-tenacity nylon.

RRP $249.99

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY/

KHUMBU DOWN PARKA: A replica of the parka

worn by Ed Hillary in 1953. Our oversized down-filled

Khumbu Parka Jacket is produced from a British,

densely woven down-proof cotton, filled with the

highest quality goose down with 450 fill power. The

down is ethically sourced from Minardi Piume, one of

the world’s most respected suppliers. The oversize

design and roomy proportions enable the wearer

more movement and the ability to layer-up in heavy

winter cold conditions.

EDMUND HILLARY BADGE BEANIE:

Developed as a replica version of

an original worn by Ed Hillary, it is

produced in England from a very

soft British lambswool yarn, and has

a unique four seam construction for

style and fit.

EDMUND HILLARY SCARF:

Incorporating all the colours we can

offer in the Edmund Hillary lambswool

sweater range, and produced from

super-soft lambswool.

YES I’D LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE

VISIT

WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ

The giant sand dunes of te paki

By Bridget Thackwray

and Topher Richwhite

The entrance to the Giant Sand Dunes in the Far North of New Zealand

Topher and I have just picked up our

new Expedition Earth companion,

a Jeep Gladiator we have decided

to call ‘Roman’. Named after a local

Siberian man who escorted us up

the Yamal Peninsula in early 2020,

we’ve been working with sponsors

from all over the world to build the

ultimate off-road machine to join

Gunther on future expeditions. As we

wait for 30 countries between Russia

and New Zealand to open their

borders, we will be testing Roman

here in New Zealand to refine his

design and learn more about his

ability.

Straight from the RVE garage in

Mount Wellington, we headed toward

our first testing site, the Giant Sand

Dunes of Te Paki.

Reaching the most northern point in

New Zealand is a drive that should

sit high on every Kiwi’s road tripping

bucket list. But visiting the Cape

Rienga Lighthouse is about as

eventful as one might expect. ‘It’s

not about the destination, it’s about

the journey of getting there’ rings

very true on this adventure.

At a first glance, one would assume

4x4’ing on sand dunes wouldn’t

require much experience. But in fact,

Topher and I have had many close

calls and learnt sometimes the hard

way of how to navigate our way

through these delicate landscapes.

"Reaching the most northern point

in New Zealand is a drive that

should sit high on every Kiwi’s

road tripping bucket list."

RVE turned Roman into an expedition

machine


In Peru, during Leg 1, Topher and I

were exploring the 1.2 million-acre

Sechura Desert when we lost our tire

tracks and had to rely on our GPS to

navigate our way out of the inhospitable

landscape. Our tire markings had acted

as a sort of lifeline and without them we

felt very vulnerable. Sand can be very

unpredictable and in areas beneath dunes

it can become very soft and sticky.

Similar to scenes in the movies, animal

skeletons and mirages began to appear.

Our fuel gauge was steadily dropping

and we had no idea whether our direction

would be a safe route or not. Getting

stuck in the sand this far from civilization

could be life threatening.

In February 2019, Leg 2, South Africa.

We had just finished a refit of Gunther

in Johannesburg so we wanted to test

out Gunther’s capabilities before driving

him north to London. We had heard of

the Atlantis Dunes outside of Cape Town

which were used by locals to push their

4x4’s to the limit. When we arrived at the

dunes we were surprised by their beauty,

so Topher put his drone up in the air while

I drove Gunther into the white silica sand.

Because the sand has very little definition

it’s quite hard to gauge how fast you’re

driving. All of a sudden Topher bleated at

me to stop the car! Through his drone he

could see we were speeding towards a

drop off which we managed to narrowly

avoid flying off. At the speed we were

going we would have nose-dived off the

ledge and done serious structural damage

to Gunther and his chassis.

Topher’s drones have been our eyes in

the sky and we have often used them to

navigate our way out of tricky situations.

We’d recommend packing one if you’re

heading into a desert as you can always

use them to find a way out.

Sand dunes are constantly changing

shape, size and position so you can’t

assume following someone else’s trail is a

safe route.

1,500km north of Atlantis Dunes, and just

one week later, we were deep within the

Namib Desert. Here, similar to 90-mile

beach in New Zealand, the beach is often

used as an official road. Along the famous

Namibian ‘Skeleton Coast’ there sits a

paved roadway, but south you drive along

the beach. The majority of this beach is

walled in by what are recorded as the

world’s highest dunes.

When driving along a beach, checking

the tide is always essential. However,

checking the drive time should probably

be as much of a priority. Heading up

the coastline of Namibia took us much

longer than we anticipated. Eventually

Above: Lost in the Sechura Desert, Peru

Below: Gunther on the arid coast of Namibia’s

Skeleton Coast

Right: The Atlantis sand dunes, North West of

Cape Town

the ocean began to lap Gunther’s tires

and we made the decision to head into the

dunes. These dunes were like nothing we

had ever experienced. The sand was deep

and untouched with mountains of unscalable

dunes. We lowered Gunther’s air pressure to

the point the car was screaming with alarms

and began our challenging route back to

civilization.


qoin.world

BE PART OF WHERE

THE WORLD IS GOING

In our ever-changing world, imagine how empowering it would

be to take control of your finances and explore the new frontier

of buying, selling and saving.

Qoin digital currency will open an exciting new world for you.

It is innovative, progressive and easily transactional.

Be part of where the world is going and discover

a completely new way to shop.

Visit qoin.world to find out more.

oin

JEEP GLADIATOR RUBICON

The only convertible truck of its kind on offer in the world,

the Jeep Gladiator is built on the rich heritage of tough,

dependable Jeep trucks with an unmatched combination of

rugged capability and authentic Jeep design.

With inherent design cues from the legendary Jeep Wrangler,

the Gladiator utilises a variety of ways to optimise ride,

handling and sound characteristics while optimising fuel

economy even while towing. Utilising a body-on-frame design

and featuring a superbly engineered five-link suspension

system, the Jeep Gladiator delivers on capability, comfort,

and passenger safety - including over 70 standard and

available safety features.

As the latest iteration in a 40 year history of Jeep Trucks,

the Jeep Gladiator Rubicon features the legendary 3.6-litre

Pentastar V6 Petrol Engine, ZF 8-Speed Automatic

Transmission and class leading Rock-Trac® 4x4 system.

Remove the three-piece hard top roof and lightweight doors

to truly enjoy your ultimate New Zealand Open Air Adventure.

WWW.JEEP.CO.NZ

"I guess we can say that

Roman is now broken in,

and ready for more New

Zealand adventures! "

Roman heading north on 90-mile beach, on route to the Giant Sand Dunes

To reach the Te Paki Giant

Dunes here in New Zealand, you

must drive along 90-mile beach.

Because of this we recommend

giving your car a thorough wash

of its undercarriage afterwards.

Even if it doesn’t seem salty, it

will be.

The best way to explore the

dunes is to turn the journey into a

loop, so that the entire day you’ll

be exploring new terrain.

Refuel in Kaitaia so that you have

a full tank of gas before heading

towards Ahipara. There, you will

find the most southern entrance

onto 90mile beach. Drop your

tire pressure, turn your vehicle

north and enjoy the next hour

and a half of New Zealand’s most

famous highway!

Just a kilometer shy of the end of

the beach you will begin to see

the giant sand dunes of Te Paki

appear on your right. Just as they

begin to appear you should begin

to notice a trail leading toward

them through low lying scrub. Be

prepared to scratch the side of

your vehicle for this next 300m

trail. Eventually, you will come

out beneath the dunes. Here you

will be out of reception, and most

likely completely alone. You’ll be

wanting to drop your tire pressure

further. Remembering our

experiences from Peru, South

Africa and Namibia, enjoy with

caution! You may also be lucky

enough to sight wild horses.

Exit the dunes on the same

scratchy trail you entered, and

continue for 2km up 90-Mile

beach. Before the end of the

beach, you’ll come to a wide

riverbed. This is Te Paki stream,

which leads between the sand

dunes back to the paved road.

It also provides you with 3 km

of fun! Windows up, look out for

delicate wildlife and enjoy!

Eventually you’ll come across the

paved road which you can follow

for an hour and a half back to

Kaitaia. Once you reach Kaitaia

you’ll find air for your tires and a

car wash.

I guess we can say that Roman

is now broken in, and ready for

more New Zealand adventures!


SEEK ADVENTURE: BECOME A PADI CERTIFIED DIVERR

Looking to embark on a new adventure

in 2021? Becoming a PADI certified diver

is the perfect way to jump start the New

Year. In addition to learning an impressive

new skill, you’ll have the opportunity to

experience the magic of the underwater

world.

While 2020 certainly presented many

challenges, it also showed us the

importance of connecting with nature –

for our physical and mental wellbeing.

Taking time to focus on yourself and your

connection with nature, while completing

an epic certification course is something

we can all see value in as we begin the

New Year.

PADI – The Way the World Learns

to Dive: As we make our way through

2021, PADI is committed to providing

opportunities for people around the world

to seek adventure and save the ocean.

Becoming a certified scuba diver starts

with the PADI Open Water Diver course

– the most recognized scuba certification

in the world. PADI Instructors around the

world undergo rigorous training to ensure

that each and every course is both fun

and safe. A PADI Open Water Diver

certification allows you to seek adventure

anywhere there’s water, like a passport to

the underwater world!

Adventure Doesn’t Have to Wait: PADI

eLearning allows you to complete the

online portion of the Open Water Diver

course at your own pace through our

easy-to-use interactive program. Then,

you can connect at any time with a PADI

Dive Centre or Resort to complete your

in-water training. eLearning not only

offers added flexibility, it also reduces the

amount of time you’ll need to spend at

the dive centre.

Completing the PADI Open Water

Diver Course: The PADI Open Water

Diver course includes three main parts:

Knowledge Development, Confined

Water Dives, and Open Water Dives.

Knowledge Development (which you

can complete via eLearning) covers the

principles, concepts, and terms you need

to know for dive safety and enjoyment.

In order to complete your Confined Water

Dives and Open Water Dives, you can

use the PADI Dive Shop Locator or the

PADI Adventures App to connect with a

dive shop.

In the pool, you’ll learn and practice

scuba skills with your PADI Instructor

during your Confined Water Dives –

putting your knowledge to the test and

breathing underwater for the first time!

Then, you’ll move on to an open water

dive site (ocean or lake) to complete

four Open Water Dives. As a PADI

Open Water Diver, you’ll be trained to a

maximum depth of 18 metres, and will be

qualified to dive in conditions as good as,

or better then, those in which you trained.

It’s just the beginning of a lifetime filled

with dive adventures.

Interested in Freediving? If you’ve

always wanted to enter the underwater

world quietly, on your own terms, staying

as long as your breath allows, then

freediving is for you. Taking the PADI

Freediver course is your first step toward

discovering why freediving is such a

popular way to explore beneath the

waves.

The PADI Freediver course consists

of three main phases: Knowledge

Development, Confined Water Dives,

and Open Water Dives. Knowledge

Development (which you can complete

via eLearning) covers the principles,

concepts, and terms you need to know

for freediving safety and enjoyment.

Then, you’ll connect with a PADI Dive

Centre or Resort to complete Confined

Water Dives in a pool – learning breath

hold techniques as well as static and

dynamic apnea. Open Water Dives

at a local dive site will allow you to

practice free immersion, constant weight

freedives, and proper buddy procedures

with your PADI Freediving Instructor.

Ready for More Adventure? Dive In!

Whether it’s scuba diving or freediving

(or both) that interests you, becoming

a PADI certified diver is the perfect way

to seek adventure in 2021. Earning a

PADI Open Water Diver certification or a

PADI Freediver certification will certainly

provide you with infinite possibilities for

adventure, near and far. We look forward

to seeking adventure and saving the

ocean with you in 2021 and beyond!

For more information: www.padi.com


THE POT OF GOLD

By Jessica Middleton

"Let's search for that pot of gold" I used to

repeatedly plead to my parents as a kid whilst

meandering through the green valleys of New

Zealand. There is no shortage of rainbows in

Aotearoa - being the land of the long white

cloud and those hazy days of rain. These were

the beacons of light urging me to travel to

all these different destinations, but will I ever

make it to the rainbows end? I became fixated

on finding out the answers. As you can imagine

I was devastated to learn I would never

physically reach that destination via travelling,

until I did.

Travelling between New Zealand and Australia,

I can visually tell you I have travelled to all

colours of the Rainbow. Travelling via van cuts

the cost of accommodation which allows you to

spend longer in each destination and explore

more of what these colourful spots have to

offer. Vanlife travel is perfect for photography

lovers, quit being held back in a tour group,

you call the shots if you want to stop and taste

the rainbow. Your travel plans can be flexible

as there are generally many camping site

options on offer, although it's advised to check

before arriving at your destination. Be sure to

download the WikiCamps NZ and AUS app

where you can plan your trip to suit your travel

needs, whether that be freedom camping or

locations with amenities. Here are my favourite

vanlife destinations in the rainbow spectrum of

course :

YELLOW - GOLD COAST QLD

It doesn't have the name gold in it for no reason. With the sun

beaming an average of 300 days per year you can say Gold Coast

glows and is considered a year-round visited destination. Worldrenowned

for its sandy surf scaped coast it is best enjoyed watching

the surfers at sunrise whether at Burleigh Heads or Snapper Rocks.

We recommend going for a surf excursion yourself and hire a board

at Currumbin Alley. Nestled in a bay you could say the pot of gold

was once here and has poured out silky soft gold dust creating this

long stretched coastline. Gold Coast is a place suited for everyone,

families and all.

Good to know:

• There are many incredible waterfalls to visit in nearby

Springbrook and Lamington National Park

• Take a short drive to the famous Byron Bay.

• Loaded with bars, restaurants, and amusement parks you'll be

sure to have your entertainment needs met.

OUTBACK ORANGE - Alice Springs Northern Territory

Australia’s Northern Territory is the home of the real outback known

for its hot climate and where the surroundings have been painted

with a burnt orange glaze. If you can make the trek to Australia's

most famous landmark you will be astonished how incredible Uluru

lights up as the sunsets.

Take a short drive to explore through West Macdonnell and Elsey

National Park where you can visit gorges and swimming holes.

Other points of interest to get your orange on in the Northern

Territory would include, Kakadu NP, Litchfield NP, Mataranka

Springs, and the Devil's Marbles.

Good to know:

• Start your days earlier due to the heat or try travel here

between May through September.

• Bring a brush and shovel to wipe down your vehicle inside and

out as the orange dust does like to stick around.

• Remember to bring cool water, and a portable shade shelter if

you are outside and exploring.

• Australia now has the largest wild population of camels, be

sure to look out for them.

Red - Karijini, Western Australia

Orange - Northern Territory, Australia

Gold - Gold Coast, Queensland

Pastel Greens - The Coromandel Peninsula,

North Island NZ

Deep Green - Daintree Rainforest - Cairns,

Queensland

Aqua Blue - Coral Bay / Ningaloo Reef,

Western Australia

Purple - Wanaka - The Lupin flowers &

Lavender Fields

White - Queenstown South Island NZ

Black - Raglan, North Island NZ

Note: If you are travelling between the North

and South Island of New Zealand you can

take your vehicle or van via ferry between

Wellington and Nelson.

RED- KARIJINI Western Australia

Karijini is an ancient wonder bursting with rich red coloured rock

formations that have been naturally carved by erosion for over

2.5 million years. Contained in Western Australias second-largest

national park we consider it a must-visit oasis where you can

cool off by plunging into the many deep icy pools throughout

a multitude of simply gorgeous gorges. Located very inland of

Australia it is best to visit these hidden jewels between May -

September when the temperatures are a little cooler and dry.

If you are looking for that sizzling fire red then be sure to take a

hike through Hamersley Gorge, Weano Gorge, Knox Gorge, Dales

Gorge - Fortescue Falls / Fern Pool, Hancock Gorge, or Joffre

Gorge.

Good to know:

• There are no Crocodiles! You can swim at peace here.

• Once in the National Park the roads leading to the gorges are

very bumpy due to coarse gravel you will need to travel very

slowly if in 2WD and have a spare tyre.

• We would consider staying 4 nights to make your travel

worthwhile.

LIGHT GREEN - COROMANDEL

Surrounded by verdant farmlands and beautiful coastal drives

the Coromandel Peninsula is a little Haven located at the

North point of New Zealand. Pastel jade shrubs are scattered

along the cliffside and make great framing opportunities for

photography when capturing this exquisite landscape and

islands nearby. Be sure to check out the iconic Cathedral

Cove and dig your own thermal spa bath on Hahei beach. We

would also recommend venturing down to the laidback town of

Whangamata for a surf and bite to eat.


AQUA BLUE - CORAL BAY NINGALOO Western Australia

If your looking for a getaway from the hustle and bustle look no

further than Western Australias isolated Coral Bay. Coral Bay

is a laidback seaside location and due to the low rainfall, these

pristine beaches are kept looking super clean with their striking

white sand and azure blue waters. Truly a marine paradise,

where giant snapper and coral reef greet you meters from the

shoreline. We recommend booking a day trip where you can

dive with Manta Rays, dolphins, turtles, and in the right season

even Whale Sharks!

• Limited Camping throughout peak season we recommend

booking accommodation ahead.

PURPLE - Wanaka South Island NZ

Daily savings

at your fingertips...

Access 2,000 discounts

across NZ & Australia.

Join now:

yha.co.nz/

membership

GREEN - CAIRNS QLD

Boasting the oldest continually surviving tropical rainforest in

the world this is one you will want to be engulfed in. Mossman's

Gorge in particular contains an abundance of tropical green

goodness and hosts a safe sheltered swimming hole where the

river flows over large granite boulders.

The Daintree rainforest is an Australian Jungle loaded with palm

trees, ferns emerald green vines and epic wildlife, be sure to

look out for the prehistoric Cassowary or take a guided tour and

cruise down the Daintree River to spot the crocodiles. We would

recommend adventuring up to cape Tribulation one of the few

places in the world where the rainforest meets the reef.

Good to know:

• Cairns is best visited between May - October avoiding the

cyclone and flooding season.

• Be wary of crocodiles and abide by safety signs

• Book a trip out to snorkel or dive the world heritage site The

Great Barrier Reef. Some of the fish here hold the entire

rainbow throughout their scales.

• Drive through the Atherton Tablelands for waterfalls hikes

and lush forests.

WHITE - QUEENSTOWN - South Island NZ

The adventure capital of New Zealand. Throughout the winter

months from June - October Queenstown provides striking

white snow-laden slopes which consist of four fields the closest

being only a 20minutes drive from the Town Centre. If you don't

have room in your van for ski gear the perk is you can hire it

locally from one of the ski fields.The views of the snowcapped

mountains are breathtaking whether you are on them or parked

up in the van with a hot cuppa taking it all in.

Relax after an adventure fueled day and treat yourself to a welldeserved

muscle soak in the Onsen Hot Pools for a luxurious

experience.

You must bring thermals and plenty of snow socks.

Travel with extreme caution as there can be ice on the roads.

Bring a good pair of sunnies, the snow is stark white and

extremely bright.

BLACK - RAGLAN BLACK SAND

Home to volcanic black sand beaches, a unique sighting that

makes for epic drone shots. If you are looking for a drive away

from crowds check out Ruapuke and Ngarunui beach in Raglan

where public transport is limited. Being situated on the West

Coast take the opportunity to watch the sunset over the ocean

and remember during the day to wear jandals to avoid scorching

your feet.

Take your van for a spin and check out the pitch-black Waitomo

caves which are lightened by thousands of blue glow-worms.

It will have you feeling like your in the movie Avatar, just try not

to have a case of the giggles when in the rowboat of silence

as it echoes throughout the cave. Can or cannot say this has

happened to myself and a friend.

• Drive to the nearby Bridal Veil Falls.

• Climb Mount Karioi an extinct, forest-clad volcano with

summit views over the Tasman Sea

• Support local businesses and enjoy organic produce and

markets.

Throughout summer the wild Lupin flowers hug the lakes

and river systems of the beautiful South Island New

Zealand. These vibrant pinks and purple hues pop creating

remarkable photography shots as these tones are not often

prominent in nature. Spotting these beauties is a stand-out

sign reminding you in life to stop and smell the flowers.

The Wanaka Lavender fields host many species of lavender

which are geometrically presented in a perfect purple

plantation. It's hard to take your eyes off these carefully

maintained and manicured lavender lines and puts you into

a dream state. My dad gifted me a bottle of pure lavender

oil from here, every time I prepare for bed at night the

sweet scent transcends me back to these lilac beauties. I

recommend purchasing one of these pocket-sized potions to

take on your van travels.

• Luckily both the Lupin and Lavender are in season

at the same time and can be enjoyed from October -

February

• Take your van for an excursion and visit Queenstown,

Arrowtown, Glenorchy, Mount Aoraki, Milford Sound,

and Mount Aspiring National Park.

I found the pot

of gold through

travelling to all

these nature spots

via van but would

like to remind

everybody that it

truly is treasure to

treasure. Please

respect all land,

by leaving nothing

but footprints and

ensuring you are

using reef-safe

sunscreens. Lets

keep it colourful.


The best handmade crocheted hacky sacks

you can buy!

STAY AT ADVENTURE LODGE, NATIONAL PARK

SEAPA NZ

P.O. Box 104, Whangamata, 3643

p: 027 451 8255 e: dave@seapa.co.nz

www.seapa.co.nz

TONGARIRO CROSSING SPECIAL

• 2 x nights accommodation in a lodge budget room

($220 each) or self contained apartment ($275 each

person) – min two persons!

• 2 x cooked breakfasts

• 2 x breakfasts on the run (bacon, egg and cheese in

an English muffin) orange juice and breakfast biscuits

– perfect to take to the crossing – sit on a rock and

look at the views!! /2 x cut gourmet cut lunches and

all the water you can carry! / 2 x complimentary shuttle

rides to the crossing – return trip! / 2 x hot spa’s

after the Crossing!

• Free unlimited wifi!

Facilities include: Bar fully licienced on premises, room

service of a meat, cheese and bread platter after the

crossing (extra cost of $45 per platter or $75 platter with

a bottle of wine included) to be paid upon ordering.

Enjoy All Press coffee,

gourmet meals, freshly

squeezed juices, and

home baking from the

tranquil courtyard.

Enjoy a relaxing

atmosphere with some

fish n’ chips and tap beers.

Or, if in a rush, grab some

yummy takeaways!

4/4 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown

p: 03 442 0227 e: unwind_cafe@hotmail.com

www.unwindcafe.co.nz

Your mobile

power solution

www.sunsaver.co.nz

Central Taupo Motel accommodation

searchers look for the best central location,

quality reviews and great service.

Welcome to Acapulco Motor Inn, the best

affordable Taupo Motel.

This Taupo Motel is a kiwi family run

business that loves their job and takes pride

in presenting the best choice for a Taupo

Motel. A short walk to central Taupo with an

array of shops and eateries. Try some local

kiwi flavours and some Must Do activities to

maximise your Taupo visit.

Acapulco Taupo Motor Inn has a range of

accommodation choices that can sleep from

1 to 8 guests. Some Motel rooms have a spa

Pool or spa bath. All Motel rooms have air

conditioning.

Bed and Breakfast

Budget Lodge Accommodation

Self-Contained Motel Units

Packages available for skiing and Tongariro Crossing

Check through our accommodation choices

to match your needs to the best Acapulco

Motor Inn room or apartment.

www.adventurelodge.co.nz | 0800 621 061

A: 19 Rifle Range Road, Taupo 3330 | T: +64 7 378 7174 | F: +64 7 378 7555 | M: +64 21 800 118

E: stay@acapulcotaupo.co.nz W: www.acapulcotaupo.co.nz

OPEN TO

ADVENTURE

The All-New Jeep Gladiator has arrived. Book your test drive today.

There’s never been anything quite like the All-New Jeep® Gladiator, engineered from the

ground up to be a true pickup truck, ready to carry you and your gear around the corner or

to the far corners of the earth. Learn how Gladiator can expand your boundaries at jeep.co.nz

Jeep.co.nz

ADV 224

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?