Adventure Magazine

adventure

where actions speak louder than words

#ACTIVEWOMEN

#ADVENTUREWOMEN

#ADVERTUROUSWOMEN

ISSUE 233

AUG/SEP 2022

NZ $10.90 incl. GST

justine dupont

Gabi Steindl

paige hareb

vinny armstrong

& robin gooms

nouria newman

Frankie Sanders

& Emily Warne

Dune Kennings shot by Cam Hay on a FujiFilm XT-3 + 16-55mm F2.8 lens. June 2022 – North Piha, NZ.

#ACTIVEWOMEN

#ADVENTUREWOMEN

#ADVERTUROUSWOMEN

Left to right: Fanny Bullock, one of the world's first adventurous women / Elizabeth Shu in The Handmaid's Tale / Justine Dupont, one of

this generation's advenurous women.

It’s not that the adventure community saw women any differently

than men, but for many years they hardly noticed them at all.

Adventure activities, events and expeditions were often only seen

to be pursued by men. The adventure community wasn’t antiwomen

it simply wasn’t paying them any attention.

But it is now!

Over the last 30 years, we have seen the impact of women on

the adventure community; sure there were always those intrepid

women who ‘paved the way’ (some of which are editorialized in

this issue). But it is only in relatively recent times that women

have been recognized for their immersion in adventure. That

involvement is not just in the action and outdoor achievement

but it’s in the very core of the industry. Today, so many women

are involved in adventure-based business, operations, start-ups,

development and innovation. It’s no longer a man’s world but an

adventurous world on an equal footing.

However, there is a tragedy unfolding at present; as women claim

their rightful place alongside men in the adventure community,

we see the development of the far-right in the US where women

are being denied rights, or better phrased, having their rights

removed. Firstly, the focus was on the easy-targeted transgender

community, then slowly and specifically the far-right gaze fell on

women and their role. No matter what side of the abortion debate

you stand on, it’s women’s rights that are being trampled, and it’s

not just medical rights but rights of equality across the board.

In this WOKE-saturated world it seems everyone is so quick

to take offence, so quick in fact that it waters down the actual

meaning of offence for those who should really be offended.

But now, internationally the pendulum has swung from the far

WOKE left to the far right, with phrases coming out of the USA like

"Christian Taliban" and the establishment of a "Christian State"

(one extremist used the terms ‘in the same way Afghanistan is

Muslim’!).

The comparison to the novel “A Handmaid’s Tale” is a constant

analogy on social media, A Handmaid’s Tale is based in a world

where women have a biblical role of simply being ‘less’.

Adventure Magazine is not a political platform, but it is a

platform where women can feel equal to men in every way, their

achievements, their success and their struggles, are equal with

men.

This is the women’s issue #AdventureWomen which celebrates

women and their achievements. We are proud of these women

and as the decisions being made offshore cast a long and dark

shadow, we hope this brings just a little light.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this issue – you have

made us all proud.

Steve Dickinson - Editor

your Adventure starts with Us

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

Image by WSL Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content

page 6

page 18

page 24

contents

6//Zoi Sadowski-Synnott

Making history

10//Gabi Steindl

Exploring Wanju Kepa Kurl Boodja

18//Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms

Kiwi's pushing new boundaries

24//Paige Hareb

Our Kiwi superstar

30//Nouria Newman

Claiming world first

34//Justine Dupont

Taming giants

39//Inspirational Women

#activewomen #adventurewomen

42//Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne

Leading the way

44//Darran Mountains

Northern Fiordland

50//Kawekas

Autumn equinox

54//Mackenzie Region

Someplace special

76//Adventure Travel

Samoa | Rarotonga | Tahiti | Vanuatu

plus

63. gear guides

92. active adventure

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BEHIND THE COVER

Kiwi rider, Vinny Armstrong explains, "Riding bikes is not just the sport or competing. Its all about hanging out with your mates and

having a good time." Here she is in action at the Red Bull Formation a few years back. To see her and fellow Kiwi, Robin Gooms at the

2022 Red Bull Formation, check out page 18. Photo by: Paris Gore / Red Bull Content Pool

SHE CLIMBS

Northern Rocks Director and coach Sarah Hay along with

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team member Rebecca Hounsell are offering girls the chance to

engage in climbing, free of charge.

Partnering with Sport NZ and the #itsmymove campaign, She

Climbs is a climbing (bouldering) program designed to engage

young women in sport, specifically climbing! She Climbs offers a

safe and social space for high school age women to experience

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program will help young women gain confidence, build body

positivity, grow friendships and receive quality coaching from our

experienced female coaches.

She Climb empowers young women to give climbing a go

in a safe and supportive environment, and to have fun while

participating in active recreation! We encourage young women to

challenge themselves on the wide variety of climbing terrain, learn

new movements, be inspired by each other, and gain fitness and

self confidence. Bouldering is for everyone, and is an activity that

women can excel in with the techniques, balance and problem

solving skills involved!

Term 3 – FULLY FUNDED. APPLY FOR A SPACE NOW!

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4//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

ART DIRECTOR

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PUBLISHERS

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six

times a year by:

Pacific Media Ltd,

P.O.Box 562

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Ph: 0275775014

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must

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zoi sadowski-synnott

making history

Images by Red Bull

In 1992 The Halberg Award judges gave their supreme award to Olympic skiing Silver

Medalist, Annelise Coberger, ahead of Gold Medal winning Olympic boardsailing

champion, Barbara Kendall. Despite the fact that Kendall was New Zealand's first

female Olympic Gold Medalist since Yvette Williams 40 years earlier, the judges

recognized the difficulty of success on the snow against the huge power players of

Europe, Canada and USA and awarded the title to Coberger.

If we thought Annelise Coberger’s win, (which was of extra significance being the first

person from the whole of the Southern Hemisphere to win a medal at a Winter Olympics

when she won Silver in the slalom at Albertville in France) would indicate a change

in fortune for our Kiwi winter contestants, we were wrong. Despite a raft of talented

athletes in the following years, New Zealand was unable to find international success on

the snow covered podiums.

It was not until the emergence of the Wells brothers, who dominated the ski scene in

the 2010’s with wins at the X- games and FIS, that there was real possibility of winning

gold at the winter Olympics. Unfortunately, they were unable to attain medals at the

Olympics. Jossi came close in the 2014 Winter Olympics, placing fourth in the halfpipe

but tragically Byron was forced to withdraw due to injury which plagued both athletes in

the following Olympics in 2018.

It took an astonishing 26 years before we saw another Kiwi win a Winter Olympic medal,

and once again it was a woman, 16 year old Zoi Sadowski-Synnott. Her Bronze Medal

at the 2018 Olympics in South Korea made Zoi New Zealand youngest ever Olympic

medalist (at 16 years 353 days) a record she held for less than a day when Nico

Pretorius (16 years 91 days old) won an Olympic medal later in the same day.

During 2020 & 2021, in the shadow of a pandemic world, Zoi outperformed all other

competitors at the preceding X-Games, which a good litmus test for what to except at

the Winter Olympics.

It should have come as no surprise, that the historic moment of winning NZ first ever

Gold Medal at a Winter Olympics was achieved by then 20-year-old Zoi Sadowski-

Synnott during the 2021 Olympics in Beijing held in 2022 (delayed due to the

pandemic).

For a country known for its exceptional skiing environment and the legendary Southern

Alps, for a people known for their adventurous spirit and incredible achievements in

the mountains, it is surprising that it took so long for New Zealand to make its mark at

the Winter Olympics. Whatever the formular, whatever the coaching and the support,

whatever the blend of talent and training, the environment is now right to create success

and it was a woman, Zoi Sadowsky-Synnott, who goes down in the history books.


Zoi Sadowski-Synnott practices before the finals in the Snowboard Big Air during the Winter

Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort, New Zealand 2019

Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool

Zoi Sadowski-Synnott performs in the womans snowboard slope style during the Winter Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort,

Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool


we ARE climbing

Sarah Hueniken

Johnston Canyon

Banff National Park

Photo: John Price

johnpricephotography.ca

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to

providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear

we literally stake our lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage

STORES NATIONWIDE

www.bivouac.co.nz

Gabi Steindl

exploring WANJU KEPA KURL BOODJA

Where the water lies like a boomerang

Words by Gabi Steindl / Images by Jaimen Hudson, James Hooper

"Are you travelling all alone?", the ranger looked at me puzzled.

“Yep” I replied with a big smile.

His eyes inspected my Landcruiser. “You’re carrying off-road recovery equipment, yeah?”

"Ehm, nope," I played it cool, but his questions made me a little nervous.

"And you’re planning on sleeping alone on the beach?”

“That was the plan"

“Countless cars have already fallen victim to the beaches here. The sand is really soft in places and very, very deep.

Hopefully you’ve got an air compressor and know a thing or two about tire pressure?”

“Absolutely”, whether he believed me will remain unknown.

"Well then, good luck!"

“Thanks, mate”. My heart fully started pounding when Thomas River, the first obstacle I had to tackle to get onto the long

stretch of wild, remote beaches of Cape Arid, sloshed over the bonnet of my Landcruiser. On the other side of the river, I

stopped the engine, took a deep breath and let the tires down to 15psi. The real adventure was only just about to begin!

With a massive area of 2.6 million km2 (four times the size

of Texas) and some of Australia's most iconic landscapes,

Western Australia is the home of the iconic road trip. I firmly

believe that God created Australia’s largest state, with its

scenic and rugged beauty, epic surf spots and one of the most

pristine coastlines in the world, for us earthlings to explore by

car.

As a professional kitesurfer, I first came to Western Australia

(aka WA) in 2007 to shoot a kiteboarding road trip story for the

magazines with a New Zealand photographer, and fell head

over heels in love with the Margaret River region of the South

West. I am now a permanent resident and have been married

to an Australian big wave windsurfer for 12 years. Margaret

River is my home and Western Australia is my playground,

where the options for great waves and new adventures never

run out.

On this trip, I wanted to explore some more remote stretches

of the south coast of WA. With my jam-packed Toyota

Landcruiser — two wavekiteboards, a surfboard, a foilboard,

six kites, several bars, harnesses, wetsuits, my swag (one

of the greatest inventions of mankind!), an Engel car fridge,

gas cooker, camping chair, my camera gear, and the most

important kitchen utensils — I kissed my husband goodbye

and hit the road.

The Esperance area, about 800km from Margaret River, is

an isolated paradise on the coast of the Southern Ocean and

is famous for its breathtaking beauty. The Wudjari People of

the Noongar cultural group (also Nyungar, the Indigenous

Australians of South West Australia) are the true locals and

the traditional owners of this region. Their name for Esperance

is Kepa (Water) Kurl (Boomerang), meaning 'where the water

lies like a boomerang'. Fundamental to Noongar and Wudjari

identity and culture is a strong connection to the land with a

deep sense of responsibility to both manage and nurture their

“country’’ (Boodja or Boodjar) and everything connected to it.

The region around the small town of Esperance with only

12,000 inhabitants officially has two of Australia's whitest sand

beaches, so fine the sand actually squeaks underfoot. The

colour of the water here rivals the most beautiful spots in the

South Pacific with transparent waves that are often hard to

see. Unfortunately, Esperance is also known for giant white

sharks and in the last three years alone there have been

three fatal shark attacks and a number of near-misses. Five

days before I arrived, an 18-year-old girl was attacked and

miraculously survived the attack despite severe wounds.

I was excited to finally meet Jaimen Hudson, who grew up

here. As a well-known aerial photographer and drone pilot, I

had been in contact with him for quite some time by phone and

internet with regard to various photo shoots I had planned in

the area. Jaimen is 31 years old and a quadriplegic since he

was 17 when he was involved in a serious motorbike accident

in the sand dunes just out of town. Before the accident, surfing,

skateboarding, scuba diving etc ruled Jaimen’s life and his

earliest childhood memories are of the days on the water

with his mother and father who ran a scuba diving school

and boating business. About 8 years ago, Jaimen became

interested in drone photography and videography, but due to

his limited hand function, he feared that he would never be

able to operate a drone himself; until he bought one in 2015.

By now, Jaimen is a personality in the drone filming world and

has been featured by major international media outlets such as

The Huffington Post, BBC, The Sunday Times, BBC Earth and

many more.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

Besides his filming and photography business, Jaimen

bought and now runs his parents' boating family

business with his wife Jess, a Canadian from Vancouver

Island. Their three-year-old son “Captain” is a real

trooper, and a second child is on the way.

From the very first phone call, I had felt a special

connection with Jaimen. Finally meeting him in person,

and experiencing Jaimen's positive energy and charisma

was amazing. Until then he had never shot kitesurfing

and was just as excited as I was. "The wind forecast

looks good for the afternoon", I said, "let's meet at West

Beach around noon". “Perfect!”

In an extremely stylish, black VW Multivan that was

modified for Jaimen to drive himself, he dashes along

the coast every day before sunrise in search of wildlife.

Dolphins and whales are usually the main subjects of his

phenomenal footage.

During my first session, the queasy feeling in my

stomach due to the large white underwater inhabitants

subsided quickly; the mind-boggling scenery was

helping. Dempster Head, a granite headland nearly

100m high at the western end of the pristine, snow-white

West Beach, is breathtaking from land but even more

so from the water. Massive boulders shining in millions

of reddish-brown shades in the midday sun, stuck out

of the turquoise-blue water as if a giant would have cast

them like dice.

The horseshoe-shaped Twilight Bay, the unofficial

landmark of Esperance with its iconic “rock with a hole”

was our playground the following day.


"Massive boulders shining in millions of reddish-brown

shades in the midday sun, stuck out of the turquoise-blue

water as if a giant would have cast them like dice."

The colours of the Southern Ocean dazzled me, a

kaleidoscopic spectacle of the most vivid shades of

turquoise. At just under 8 knots, the wind conditions

were borderline at best for my 10m2. With a foil board

as my light wind weapon, I was hoping to make things

work and to inspect the weird rock with the hole through

it at Twilight Cove, which reminded me of the head of a

prehistoric Pterosaur, up close. Halfway there, the wind

suddenly died off to literally nothing. Looping my kite and

being dragged through the water like trolling live bait was

rather unsettling. Even more so as a foil looks like a big,

shimmering fishing lure and a friend of mine got bitten by

a shark while foiling in New Caledonia. "Breathe, don't

think of sharks, breathe, don't think of sharks...". I felt

relieved when I finally could feel the sand under my feet.

An elderly gentleman who was on a beach walk and

had observed my aborted foiling mission, came across

the squeaky sand and commented "Three weeks ago

a 4.5-meter Great White made Australian headlines

cruising around right here, with lots of families and kids

on the beach. A tourist filmed it with a drone. Check it out

on Youtube!”. So I did later on. Woooow, he was big…

As ubiquitous as the white sharks in Esperance are,

after a few days there, I stopped thinking about them.

Wherever the swell was up and the wind blew, I went

kiting. I did long downwinders, played in transparent

waves and was without exception, always alone on

the water. The breaks along Esperance’s beaches

usually are a fun size as the 105 offshore islands of the

Recherche Archipelago (also called “Bay of Isles” by the

locals) block the swell.



"Without fins, I went on a crazy ride on my waveboard on this

liquid pink mirror. A fair number of Lake Warden tattoos, scars

from various cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust, are my

souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos."

One day, when the wind blew fully onshore winds

and all the breaks were a blown out, chaotic mess,

I drove Esperance's famous Great Ocean Drive, a

40-kilometre circular loop that goes past stunning

empty beaches, rocky headlands, coves, sheer

cliffs, karri forests and two lakes that lie inland from

Esperance: Pink Lake (which isn't pink anymore)

and Lake Warden. In the early 21st century, the

bubblegum hued Pink Lake was a place that had to

be seen to be believed, inspiring Dreamtime stories

and considered a natural treasure by locals. The pink

hue was caused by microscopic algae producing beta

carotene. Unfortunately, the unique colour faded just

over 10 years ago due to changes in natural water

flow, reduced evaporation and salt extraction.

The lake, which used to be so pink, was a sad sight

in its now unspectacular grey-white tone. Glancing

into the distance, I suddenly spotted a pink shimmer. I

blinked several times and rubbed my eyes. Whatever

I saw looked totally fake. Eventually, I realised that

neighbouring Lake Warden (also a salt lake) was

actually glowing pink. The ladies at the tourist office

had told me that this can happen once or twice a year,

but only if many different independent factors come

together. Immediately, I rang up Jaimen “Mate, Lake

Warden is pink!! I want to kite it, how can I get there?”

“Whaaat, no way!! I'm coming!”. The Lake Warden

area is a nature reserve and access is difficult. It was

already late in the afternoon and there wasn't much

time left. I drove closer to Lake Warden and fought

my way by foot through the thick bushes to the shore

of the salt lake. Around the lake was a thick, dry salt

crust that was over a hundred metres wide. Before

even thinking of pumping up my kite, I had to check

the water depth and the ground below the surface. As

if on snow I trudged to the shore of the lake and then

waded cautiously in. The water was only about 10cm

deep, the bottom a rock-hard, very sharp crust of salt.

The wind was super gusty.

The sky and the clouds reflected in the pink water.

As much as I wanted to glide into this surreal setting

with my kite, I knew I would rip out the fin boxes of my

waveboard. After a moment's thought, I was on the

way back to my car. Without fins, I went on a crazy

ride on my waveboard on this liquid pink mirror. A fair

number of Lake Warden tattoos — scars from various

cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust — are my

souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos.


"The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape Arid

National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly beautiful,

biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha."

Another afternoon, I visited the local surfboard shaper and “Fish

Skin Artist” Pat McCarthy aka P-Mac. Under the label “FOFS

- Fish on Fish Skins” his art is hanging up on the walls of his

board shaping shed. It’s a beautiful, unique and sustainable

mixed media art form that the avid fisherman invented himself

after brooding over the question of what he could actually do

with the skins of fish that usually go straight into the bin or are

fed to crows. Well, P-Mac found the solution: He first dries the

skins of typical Western Australian fish, such as the Breaksea

Cod, Nannygai, Mangrove Jack, and Barramundi, then fixes

them onto special pieces of recycled wood (such as pieces from

the old tanker jetty in Esperance), before putting several layers

of clear surfboard resin on top and finally painting on the head

and fins of the fish. I couldn’t resist ordering a custom Dhu fish

to bring home to my hubby.

After kiting pretty much every break around Esperance, it was

time to venture into more remote realms. First up was the

spectacular Cape Le Grand National Park. Founded in 1966,

the 32,000-hectare national park is home to “Lucky Bay”, which

has been scientifically declared twice as having the whitest sand

in Australia. Matthew Flinders – the man who named Australia

— gave Lucky Bay its name in 1802 when he took shelter here

after being hit by a storm while sailing a perilous route through

the archipelago in the HMS Investigator.

I got “lucky” in Lucky Bay as well. The wind was blowing, a little

swell was rolling in and I had it all to myself.

One morning in the Cape Le Grand National Park, I hiked up

the iconic Frenchman Peak, an impressive granite dome rising

242m above sea level. The Aboriginal name for the peak, which

resembles the hats worn by French troops in the 19th century, is

Mandooboornup and it is an important site in the local culture.

The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape

Arid National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly

beautiful, biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha. The

nearly untouched wilderness here is an important conservation

area for 1100 plant species and more than 160 bird species,

some of which are threatened or endangered. Migrating whales

pass by headlands in late winter and spring. Most of the park

is only accessible by four-wheel drive. Everything has to be

brought in: water, food, a tent or swag and camping under the

huge starry sky is the only option.

After the Thomas River crossing, you can head east along the

beach towards Cape Arid for 29 kilometres. The exhilarating

feeling of pure freedom took up every single cell in my body,

hitting the first stretch of snow-white beach, which is only safe to

drive on low tide.

Without any idea where I was going to roll out my swag or

what dangers and adventures were lying ahead of me in this

completely isolated corner of the world, I set off. Where phone

coverage doesn’t exist and lonesome fishermen casting lines

from the beach were the exception, where a small judgement

error could turn into a full-blown nightmare in a matter of

minutes, I felt at home.

On a narrow section of the beach with super soft sand, my car

started to sink and was stuck. With the tide rising, time was

running out. I dropped the tyre pressure to 12psi and luckily got

out before my Landcruiser fell victim to the Southern Ocean.

Rocky headlands had to be traversed to get from one beach to

the next. Without any tracks visible on the rocks, I needed to

keep my eyes glued to the rocks a few metres just ahead. Due

to the orientation and the geography of the 29km of coastline

up to Cape Arid, you can find a beach with the wind from any

angle, from fully offshore to fully onshore. With not a soul to

be seen, plus, the thought of “Salisbury Island” and the great

white shark nursery just off the coast here, where Discovery

Channel’s “Laird of the Great White” was filmed, in the back of

my head, it took quite a bit of convincing myself, to pump up a

kite and go for a session.

There is no better feeling than reviewing the day at nighttime, all

alone on an endlessly long, snow-white sandy beach, under the

Milky Way, and crawling into my swag, utterly stoked with small

red sunburnt eyes.

Getting up with the sunrise, feeling the fine, squeaky sand under

my toes on my way to a morning dip in the most turquoise blue

water, sipping a coffee from the camping stove and waiting for

the wind to get stronger to go kiting, that was pure joie de vivre.

But all dreams must come to an end. Eventually, I had to leave

Cape Arid. I couldn’t hit the road back home to Margaret River

without spending a few more days with Jaimen and his beautiful

family. In the short time I’ve known them, they have become

very dear to my heart. Some more epic kiting sessions with

Jaimen’s drone above me, a legendary boat trip out into the

breathtaking seascape of the Recherche Archipelago, and a

visit to Esperance’s Lucky Bay Brewery marked the end of an

unforgettable time.

Hugging Jaimen, Jess and my little buddy Captain goodbye

wasn’t easy. I programmed a different route into Google Maps

for the way home. One more highlight was still on the menu:

Wave Rock, also known as Katter Kich by the Noongar people.

The 15m high and 110m long natural granite rock formation

that is shaped like a tall breaking ocean wave was created by

the erosive action of wind and water over millions of years. The

red, brown, yellow and grey vertical stains on the rock, caused

by rain washing chemical deposits (iron oxide and carbonates)

down the surface, looked like hand-painted and add to its wavelike

appearance.

For the last sunset of this trip, I sat high up on the crest of

the rocky wave and looked out over the surrounding desert

wilderness reminiscing all the wild moments, crazy experiences

and legendary kite sessions. But most of all, my heart and

thoughts were with Jaimen, who had touched me deeply with

his incredibly positive attitude, the love of life he exudes, his

humour, infectious energy and his incredible family. This road

trip has not only made me fall in love with my adopted home,

Western Australia, all over again. I made new friends for life and

that is the most beautiful outcome that one could wish for.



Vinny Armstrong does a whip off a step-up jump at Red Bull Formation in Virgin, Utah, USA

Image by Re Wikstrom / Red Bull Content Pool


Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms

kiwi women pushing new boundaries

red bull formation, utah

There are few sports that are more dominated by the highlight reel of failure than extreme

mountain biking. Yet there are a group of Kiwi women who are not just amongst the best but

leading the way. The penultimate organization that sets the benchmark of extreme Mountain

biking focus on two kiwi women’s who show as clearly as it is possible the Kiwis can fly!

Twelve of the best women's mountain bike freeriders have been pushing new boundaries in

Southwest Utah as the third Red Bull Formation event saw "spectacular" progression as the

likes of Hannah Bergemann and Camila Nogueira helped elevate the sport further and New

Zealand's Robin Goomes threw the first-ever backflip at the event.

After the first two events advanced the sport to exciting new levels in the women's arena, the

third event saw 12 of the planet's best female riders chosen by judges to carve out thrilling

new lines in Utah where they dug out brave lines down the dusty course before freeriding

down the mountain.

There were three dig days, one rest day - where they found community in each other and

industry mentors - and three ride days, where the mountain was host to the gnarliest ever

women's MTB freeriding.

Founding organiser Katie Holden revealed: "The progression witnessed was spectacular and

truly marks a turning point for women's freeride mountain biking. We have seen a tremendous

amount of confidence from the riders. From tackling steep drops to choosing lines that played

to their styles and incorporating tricks, we hit a major milestone."

Following the final runs, athletes voted on the rider who ignited the sessions and "brought

the spice" to the progression session with Argentine Nogueira receiving a trophy to mark the

accolade.

She enthused: "Winning this award is the perfect end to an epic event. My goal was to

challenge myself with a daring line, one that would challenge my courage due to its exposure

and where I would need to stay calm under pressure. I truly believe everyone riding today

deserved this honour as they are my friends who continue to push and inspire me."

Kiwi Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top Scissor Drop then ran through looker's

right to end in the Snake Pit, the lower portion of the course that has a series of jumps and

features.


"Blind, technical and exposed is how I would describe

this. I couldn’t see the landing until I was already in

the air, the landing being fairly narrow, right next to

a cliff, safe to say I had to be very precise".

Image of Vinny Armstrong by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool

Quick fire with Vinny Armstrong:

Describe yourself: Describing myself is probably one of the hardest

things to do, but I see myself as someone who always likes to have fun

and make everyone around me laugh. I think it’s good to not take life so

seriously all the time and enjoy the little things.

In such a high impact sport been dominated by men for so long how

do you see the roll or influence women will have on the sport? I think

the impact women have on the sport is awesome as it gets more people

involved and riding bikes. It goes to show what’s possible and that women

can achieve the same thing guys can do.

How would you describe the sport to someone who doesn’t know it

or never seen it? Riding bikes is not just the sport or competing. Its all

about hanging out with your mates and having a good time except you’re

on a bike and riding huge jumps hyping each other up to send it.

watch




"Robin Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top

Scissor Drop"

Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool



Paige in action at the Nias Pro June 2022

paige hareb

our kiwi superstar

privileged to be part of the journey

Words by Steve Dickinson | Images by WSL

Intimacy in sport is rare. Sports people hold everyone at arms-length for

a number of reasons; often they just want to be judged by their results

alone. However, one Kiwi sports star that we have watched grow up and

have been privileged to be part of their journey is Paige Hareb. The stars

simply aligned; we were there when she got her first big break at Piha,

and I clearly remember the day she walked out of the water at Log Cabins

in Hawaii, and it was confirmed she was on the World Tour. We have

been there through the wins and the losses, the highs and the lows, the

elation and the disappointments. In a sport dominated by men – Paige,

and women like her, have been on the cutting edge of the push for

equality for women which has created the platform for today’s successes.

I first met Paige Hareb when she was about 12, long

white ponytail, little skinny arms and already on her

way to being a Kiwi surfing superstar. As Paige’s

career started it coincided with Pacific Media (us,

Adventure) launching Curl, a female surf magazine. In

hindsight, we did see the birth and growth of women’s

surfing as a credible sport, but when we started it

was clear that there was no equality in the sport for

women. I clearly recall at Piha that the women’s bikini

contest winner got more money than the winner of

the female surf competition, prize money given by

the same sponsor! Local and international surfing

associations would openly send the women out to

compete when the surf was at its worst. When women

paddled out, I would often be the only cameraman still

standing on the beach shooting.

As we became friends with Paige and her family and

watched first-hand as she dealt with and struggled

with all the issues of sponsorship, costs and sexism

as a female surfer, those inequalities became very

apparent. It seems most sports; soccer, ice hockey,

and tennis all struggled with this same issues; quality

of competition, recognition and equity in prize money

and coverage.

If you roll back annuls of time you have plenty of

examples that women deserve equality; the likes

of Billy Jean King (female) beating Bobby Riggs

(male) in 1973 (which was in fact the most attended

tennis match in US history with over 30,000 people),

Kathrine Switzer No. 261, who tried to join in the

all-male Boston Marathon course in 1967, Venus

Williams pushing Wimbledon for equality which they

eventually got. And in surfing the list is long; Keala

Kennelly, Lane Benchley, Steph Gilmore all had their

part to play in gaining that equality.

The pay equality in surfing reached boiling point

when this photo was published after the Ballito Pro

Junior Series event in South Africa in June 2018 on

Facebook. Here it shows Indonesia's Rio Waida with

a cheque for 8000 rand and home surfer Zoe Steyn

holding a cheque for half that amount!

The subsequent furore on social media intensified the

pressure on the surfing authorities and WSL made

their announcement two months later of equity across

the board.

Steph Gilmore talking to InStyle magazine said: "We

had just announced equal prize pay. And I realised,

world titles are awesome, but what this stood for

meant more. That was badass.”

But equality is not just about sex, it’s about race and

age and social standing. Surfing seems to be at the

forefront of those battles and winning. We have had

surfers on the world tour who grew up in poverty

learning to surf on a piece of wood. We have the likes

of Kelly Slater who at 50 is still winning major events

against competitors that are a quarter his age. And as

pay parity and equal opportunity have blossomed for

women in surfing so has their competitive edge and

quality of competition.

Our own Paige Hareb is now 32 in a sport that is

marketed at youth, Paige is still winning at a top level

and looks to others like Kelly Slater as an example of,

"if you want it bad enough you can just keep going".

We caught up with Paige between sets and

destinations to ask her about her latest win and life

on tour...


OK so how many years has it been now that

you have been on Tour? I have been on the World

Chamionship Tour for 8 years but I have been a pro

surfer and travelling the world now for the last 14

years (minus close to two years at home in NZ due

to covid).

What has been the highlight? Far out, so many

good things over the years it’s hard to choose one.

I think the main ones that will always be in my heart

will be winning the Margaret River Pro in 2008 at

the age of 17 to qualify for my very first year on the

Championship tour. Then my very first event on the

WCT at Snapper Rocks nearly beating Stephanie

Gilmore at her home break and finishing 3rd. Last

but not least, being part of the winning World Surf

Team in the Founders Cup at Kelly Slater’s Surf

Ranch. That wave and place is so surreal!

What has been the worst? Losing and falling off

tour always sucks and not knowing what’s next,

whether to keep going or not. In the early days,

always competing in bad surf conditions because

whenever it got bad they would unfairly “just put the

girls out”.

What are the major changes you have seen? The

equal prize money would be the biggest movement

by far and makes me so proud to be a female pro

surfer. It’s also more fair now with whatever the

conditions at a competition, the contest director tries

to make it as fair as possible. Female surfing has

improved leaps and bounds since I first started, now

there’s 12 yr old girls that can do big air reverses,

the future is looking super bright for surfing and even

more so in my opinion for female surfing.

What are the major challenges you have faced?

It was the bad prize money for women and having

to rely on major sponsors which I went without for

a couple of years, so that was hard to try and find

enough money to keep going. I think the biggest

challenge for me personally, was the decision

whether to keep going or stop, both times I got

knocked off the top tour (World Championship Tour)

and the unknown of what I would do. Life after

surfing was always scary.

As women do you feel valued by the WSL and the

way it operates? Yes, very much so, now more than

ever, mainly for the equal prize money, equal amount

of events and at the same locations as the men. The

next step in my eyes would be to have the same

amount of women as men on tour.

Do you think people see you differently now than

they did when you were younger? Hmm that’s a

good question! I have no idea how people viewed

me back then until now, no one has told me and I

don’t really care what people think haha but as long

as I have been and can be some kind of positive

influence on someone then I’ll be happy with that. I

think for close to 15years I have gone through many

life stages from being a little carefree teenager,

finding myself through my 20's and I would say more

carefree again in my 30's.


Nias turned on excellent conditions, allowing Paige to show she's still got what it takes to win.

Paige in winning form at the Nias Pro, 2022

Is Kelly Slater an anomaly or is there longevity in

the sport of surfing? I still can’t believe it and don’t

feel like I’m in my 30's yet. It had been 4 years since I

had won an international comp, so that felt pretty good,

but felt extra good to see that I can still do it in my 30s! I

have always thought that surfing is a sport of longevity,

there’s not many other sports where people actively and

actually want to do it every single day, sometimes right

up into their 80s or 90s! It’s definitely one of the only

sports where it’s not just a sport, it’s a great lifestyle too.

Any comments on how women’s surfing is now

viewed (are there a little less bikini shots and a few

more of the girls charging?) Yeah it’s nice to see a

lot of the girls wearing what they want and not feeling

the pressure from sponsors to wear less than what they

want. I remember one year when Alana Blanchard was

on tour, WSL brought in a rule that all photographers

and filters weren’t allowed to shoot the girls when they

were performing a bottom turn (because you might be

able to see what they had for breakfast). It’s so good to

see role models like Steph and Carissa choosing to surf

in little shorts compared to g-strings, and I can see that

influencing the younger girls in a good way.

watch


Nouria Newman first decent of Pucuno Falls - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool


nouria newman

claiming world first

descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador

Frenchwoman Nouria Newman is a dominant force in whitewater kayaking. Her

astonishing new film, Wild Waters, (free to watch) follows her adventure as a kayaking

nomad, where she claims the first descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador and becomes the

first woman to bag a first descent of 100ft+ (30.48m) waterfall drop into the bargain.

After years at the forefront of her sport, claiming first descents around the world, and

winning awards and recognition for her intrepid expeditions, it was in making a first

descent of the Río Pucuno in Ecuador that Newman broke this latest boundary. In

February of 2021, she successfuly dropped what are now known as Don Wilo’s Falls.

In doing so, she became the first female kayaker to make a first descent of a falls over

100ft, eclipsing the 82ft (25m) recorded by Christie Glissmeyer at Metlako Falls in 2009

and winning herself a fifth consecutive Rider of the Year title at the Whitewater Awards.

Now viewers can see exactly how she faced up to the challenge in the new

documentary, Wild Waters. The film offers a dive into the adventurous existence of the

freestyle kayaking legend. Film-maker David Arnaud was able to immerse himself in

her daily life for two years to retrace her journey from childhood to this incredible new

record.

After a personal tragedy, Newman decided to leave for a globe-trotting adventure that

she hoped would enable her to reconnect, not just with others with others, but also with

herself. She explained: “It's not all about sports. On a social or mental level, it goes

far beyond. We touch on universal subjects. That's the richness of this film and sport

generally.”

The film reveals the non-conformist personality behind the elite athlete who, at just

30 years old, already has a huge list of achievements, including: three-time extreme

kayaking world champion and five-time rider of the year.

Watch Wild Waters in full on Red Bull TV.

watch


Nouria Newman at the point of No Return! - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool



Justine Dupont at Jaws in Hawaii - Image by Fred Pompermayer / Red Bull Content Pool

justine dupont

taming giants

Words and Images by Red Bull

The great surf brand Rip Curl used to have a catch phrase for promotion saying, “only a surfer

knows the feeling”, which is true. If you don’t surf or haven’t, you can look and go ‘wow’ but if

you are a surfer and you look at these waves that Justine DuPont is riding it actually makes you

uncomfortable. These are massive, death walls of water. Like climbing Everest there seems no

fun in it, just the challenge and the constant threat of death. Yet Justine, who started life on the

world championship stage, has made this her surfing pathway. There are a few other women,

Maya Gabeira, Keala Kennelly to mention a few who have shone of the world stage of big wave

surfing which is dominated by men. But giant waves do not differentiate between men and

women it is the great leveler, the waves serve up the same natural equality for all which makes

Justine DuPont’s success even more impressive.

Surfer Justine Dupont is one of the world's best

female big wave surfers. Her 2020/21 season was

the most dominant performance big wave riding

has ever seen. Her new documentary 'à la folie',

which translates to "with a lot of passion", explores

the highs and lows, the life-changing wipeouts and

insane barrels, throughout her ground-breaking

2020/21 season. She reveals what drove her careerdefining

season and what it takes to level up your

passion.

Dupont's obsession with big waves has been

something developed over years of exploring the

ocean. She first started surfing aged 11 in Lacanau

- down the coast from her birthplace of French city

Bordeaux - when she stole her father's shortboard to

sneak off to the beach.

From there she began competing and a runner-up

finish in the World Junior Championships in 2011

announced her arrival on the shortboard scene

before qualifying for the 2012 WSL Championship

Tour where she sadly picked up a training injury the

week before her first CT contest.

Instead of letting the setback that cost her a coveted

spot on the World Tour get her down, she went on

to earn European Longboard titles and become the

2019 ISA Stand Up Paddle World Champion.

When she first tasted the adrenaline of tow surfing

at Belharra, though, she finally found her true water

sports calling and moved to Portugal to tackle the

infamous Nazaré big wave whenever it broke.

Two Nazaré Tow Challenge victories later, the

solid natural footer's talents have seen her tackle

Mavericks in California and Jaws in Maui - where she

successfully navigated the best female tube ride of

all time - as well as pick up numerous XXL Awards

across several categories.

Now 'à la folie' documents a fascinating year in the

life of a woman at the top of her powers, travelling

the world, riding giants and doing it while keeping her

love for surfing at the top of the priority pile.

The 30-year-old, whose boyfriend Fredo David is

also her tow partner, revealed: "À la folie means 'with

a lot of passion'. It does for me anyway, because

otherwise, it means 'madness', and that's not what

I see my surfing as. Last year was my best season

yet, so it was a great feeling to have that all captured,

to show off how I was feeling, how I do everything

with my team, and all of the work beyond just the

surfing. I'm never looking for a win. I surf for myself. I

only care about the waves."

Water sports star Kai Lenny, 29, declared: "The

first time I met Justine was over at Nazaré. Pretty

immediately I noticed her comfort level was really,

really high, in one of the most treacherous oceans

that I have ever experienced. Justine just struck me

as someone highly dedicated to the game. She's a

total badass and the kindest person possible."

"It's nice to be recognised as one of the best big

wave surfers in the world, for all sorts of reasons,"

says Justine. "I've dedicated myself to Nazaré, to big

waves, and it makes me feel like I'm doing the right

thing. Being recognised means that I can follow my

dreams and follow the storms and the waves I want

to surf."

Watch 'à la folie' documentary on Red Bull TV HERE.

https://www.redbull.com/int-en/films/a-la-folie

watch



Justine Dupont at Nazare - Image Rafael G. Riancho / Red Bull Content Pool


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#inspirationalwomen

#activewomen #adventurewomen #adventurouswomen

There are so many inspiring women out there leaving their mark on the world, here's a snippet of some of

those women who have lead the way in adventuring around the world...

Fanny Workman (1859 – 1925)

Fanny was one of the

first women adventurers;

climbing, exploring and

cycling her way around the

world (always wearing a

skirt!). She was one of the

first women to climb in the

Himalayas and she wrote

books about her experiences.

She was ahead of her time,

not only in the outdoors but in

her campaign for equality, in

a time when women were not

allowed to vote.

Sylvia Earle (born 1935)

Sylvia has many strings to her

bow, she is a marine biologies,

oceanographer, explorer, author and

lecturer. In 1970 she was selected

to lead the first all-female team

of aquanauts and in 1979 set the

women’s depth record of 381m,

which ahe still holds to this day.

Her work in underwater research

is vast and she was named Time

Magazine’s Hero for the planet in

1998 for her work protecting the

ocean and it’s wildlife.

"humans are the only species with the ability to dive deep in the sea, fly high in the sky, send instant

messages around the globe, reflect on the past, assess the present and imagine the future." (sylvia earle)

Junko Tabei (1939 – 2016)

Junko was a

mountaineer, author

and teacher and the

first women to climb

Mount Everest. She

reached the summit

on May 16, 1975 and

continued climbing

up until her death in

2016. She was 77.

Lynn Hill (born 1961)

A legendary rock climber, Lynn

became the first person to freeclimb

“The Nose”, a route on

El Capitan in Yosemite Valley

in 1993. The following year

she became the first person

to free-climb the same route

in less than 24 hours. To put

this in perspective, the second

free ascent of The Nose was

attempted in 1998 and took

Scott Burke 261 days to reach

the top! It was not until 2005

that her record was broken.


Steph Davis (born 1973)

A rock climber, BASE

jumper and wingsuit

flyer, she has a bunch of

credits to her name in the

sport of climbing. In 1998

Patagonia hired Steph as

their first female “climbing

ambassador” and in 2004

became the first woman

to free climb Salathé

Wall on El Capitan.

Despite losing both

her ex husband, Dean

Potter and husband,

Mario Richard in wingsuit

accidents, Steph still

jumps 300 times a year.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1973)

Gerlinde became the

first woman in the world

to climb all 14 eightthousander’s

without

oxygen. In 2012 she

was awarded “Explorer

of the Year” by National

Geographic.

anna frost (born 1981)

Kiwi long-distance runner,

Anna Frost believes

“women’s sustainable

pain barrier, and urge to

succeed”, make them

ideal long distance

runners and Anna has

made her career doing

just that. She won a

range of 50km races

winning the overall title in

2010. In 2014 she won

the first ever 100 mile

race she entered, the

Bear 100 Mile Endurance

Run in Utah.

Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982)

Wasfia is a mountaineer,

activist, environmentalist

and social worker. She is

the first Bangledeshi and

first Bengali to complete

the Seven Summits and

was recognized by the

National Geographic as

one of their Adventurers

of the Year 2014/2015 in

honour of her activism

and commitment to

empowering women in

her work in the field of

adventure.

“All my life I was told about all the things I could not do rather than the things I could do. Often

times I feel that I am living my life not just to fulfill my own dreams, but also to make up for my

mother and aunts who couldn’t live their life to the fullest.” (Wasfia Nazreen)

Pasang Sherpa Akita (born 1984)

Pasang became

the first woman in

Nepal to become a

mountaineering instructor

and was the first Nepali

woman to reach the

summit of K2, despite

being told as a child that

it was “not a woman’s

job”. As well as her own

climbing achievements,

Pasang was also involved

in avalanche rescue

missions at Everest Base

camp during 2014 and

2015.

Sarah McNair-Landry (born 1987)

Heralded as one

of the world’s most

accomplished female

polar explorers, at age

18 Sarah was part of

an expedition that skied

unsupported to the South

Pole. The following year

she led a dog sled team

to the North Pole and by

the time she was 19 she

was the youngest person

to have reached both

poles. Amongst her many

adventures she has also

traversed the Greenland

Ice Cap five times.


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Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne

leading the way to sustainability

Local Dehy, a small food manufacturing company based in Lake

Hawea, is taking on the big players in the industry by producing

dehydrated meals for outdoor adventurers in home compostable

packaging.

The company’s founders, Frankie Sanders and Emily Warne,

started making dehydrated meals out of necessity. Keen

climbers, mountain bikers and trampers, the pair began cooking

and dehydrating their own meals when they

found there was an almost total lack of tasty,

varied options available for non-meat eaters

like themselves.

“We wanted meals we could look forward to

after a long day in the hills,” says Frankie.

The pair started experimenting with curries,

chilli beans and a non-meat Bolognese.

After giving a few of these meals away to

friends and family, they were soon being

asked to provide more and more as word got

around that, at last, tasty vegetarian fare was

available for adventurers wanting lightweight

meals for their missions.

Despite Emily working full time at the Wānaka

climbing gym and Frankie recovering from

aggressive stage 3 breast cancer, they

launched Local Dehy in 2017.

With the purchase of a small commercial food

trailer (now parked in the driveway of their

Hawea home), Frankie and Emily set to work

cooking small batches of their signature kumara chickpea curry,

spaghetti Bolognese and Mexican chilli beans, initially making

20 meals at a time and delivering them to a Wanaka retail outlet.

Emily says that they were so excited to see their product in the

store window that she nearly cried.

Website orders soon started arriving from outdoor enthusiasts

around the country looking for vegan and vegetarian meals. The

pair increased capacity, expanded their dinner options to include

Cajun jambalaya, Thai green curry and leek and lentil stew, and

launched a range of vegan porridges and a hummus selection.

Initially these meals were sold in traditional foil packaging, but

Frankie admits that she never felt comfortable with the idea of

foil bags ending up in landfills. After two years of searching for

an alternative, they found Econic, a Hamilton-based company

specialising in home compostable packaging.

“It’s so awesome to finally be able to offer a sustainable

alternative for outdoor adventurers,” says Frankie. “Many of

our customers write to tell us they are so happy to have found

a company selling delicious vegan food that has waste-free

packaging. We are stoked.”

At the start of 2022, Local Dehy made the decision to

discontinue offering their meals in single-use foil bags and use

only home-compostable packaging. At the

same time the company made a big push

towards sustainability by auditing their

entire process chain, from the provenance

of ingredients to packaging and shipping.

Adopting the principles of a circular

economy, Frankie and Emily committed to

reduce, reuse, remanufacture and recycle

as much as possible. They offer their

customers reusable container options,

send grain sacks to be upcycled into fence

posts, wash and send all soft plastics

for commercial recycling and recycle

cardboard and tins. “We try to create as

little waste and pollution as possible,” says

Frankie. “We use environmentally friendly

cleaning products to protect our wai, and

even use cellulose-based packaging tape

that is compostable.”

During daytime hours their home’s solar

panels power the food trailer and office,

and they use their electric car to take meal orders into Wānaka

for courier pick up.

As part of the push to reduce emissions from food transport and

to support local farmers, Local Dehy sources as much produce

as they can from New Zealand. Frankie says this all goes hand

in hand with their social and environmental sustainability ethic,

and as a company to uphold kaitiakitanga.

“Caring for our environment means taking responsibility for all

processes in our manufacturing, including what happens to our

product once it leaves us,” says Frankie. “It feels really good to

know we are trying our best to protect Papatūānuku, while also

enabling others to do so.”

For more information about Local Dehy and to order their meals,

visit www.localdehy.co.nz


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Fresh, Clean Fresh, & Pure Clean & Pure

Darran mountains

northern fiordland

Words and photos by Derek Cheng

A guttural yelp escaped my lips, the kind that betrays the unexpected and

the terrifying. My foot had slipped off the rock-face, and suddenly I was

falling. Having placed no protective gear so far, the only possible outcome

was a ground-fall.

I slammed into the hard edge of a natural water trench at the base of

a cliff in the remote, wild, intimidating Darran Mountains of northern

Fiordland. I had only been a few metres off the ground, but the pain was

immediate. It took me several moments to untangle from the crumpled

heap I’d collapsed into.

It was around then that I realised that I’d left my first aid kit in my

backpack at our bivvy site at the top of the valley. We were a long way

from there. We had abseiled into the valley, and then danger-walked—

including lowering ourselves from handfuls of snowgrass—down

challenging terrain to arrive at the base of this virgin 300m-high wall of

rock. In other words, it had been quite involved to get to where we were,

and we’d never been there before, meaning we had no idea about the

best way back up.

The plan had been to climb the wall, including a 150m chimney between

the wall and a gargantuan mega-block sitting in front of it, followed by a

150m headwall, before heading back to the bivvy that evening. My fall

forced a change of plans.

It was just after 1pm, and my immediate response was to insist that my

climbing partners, Jimmy and Ben, attempt the chimney, given we were

already here. How long could it take, anyway? It looked straight-forward,

and my pain levels weren't astronomical.

As with many first ascents, it predictably took much longer than

anticipated. They returned in the evening light, just after 7pm, having

chimneyed for hours on an all-time adventure. I was still too sore to climb,

but I also happened to be on a lovely ledge of tussock, which was near a

natural trench of running water. In staying the night, I’d be a bit cold and

uncomfortable, but my life wouldn’t be in any danger. Jimmy would later

name this place Camp Derek, given how it came to be.

Jimmy Finlayson heading

up an unclimbed crack

line in the Darrans, in

northern Fiordland.


Derek Cheng at the top of Point 2135, surrounded by the wild and remote Central Darrans.

Jimmy left me his down jacket and I settled in for the night,

watching their head-torches as they moved up a wall they hoped

would be the quickest way out. Again, and not unpredictably,

they got much more than they bargained for. It took four pitches

of sparsely-protected climbing, meaning any falls would be long

and potentially dangerous, before they topped out—thankfully

fall-free.

It was 3am when they reached the top of the valley. The following

morning, Jimmy decided to take all of our gear from the bivvy

spot to Camp Derek in case, due to my injuries, it was best to

head back to civilisation from there. It was about 24 hours after

my fall when they managed to return with my first aid kit, and

some food. By then, my morning shivers had dissipated; Camp

Derek was basking in afternoon sunshine.

Tramadol and ibuprofen brought relief. It wasn’t until several

weeks later that I realised I’d probably broken my tailbone. My

self-diagnosis was based on the acute pain I felt when sitting or

lying in certain positions. And there was one particularly telling

symptom: for weeks, it was really painful to shit.

—

I’d met Jimmy and Ben the previous summer in Homer Hut,

in Fiordland, and quickly learned that Jimmy was basically Mr

Darrans; he always knew exactly where we were, which peaks

we were looking at, and the best way to proceed from wherever

we happened to be. Ben was also an ideal Darrans companion

for his easy-going nature, rope expertise, and his penchant for

calorie-rich butter, and his willingness to carry it to remote places.

Having spied some neck-craning, virgin rock a few weeks earlier

on his way out from Tutoko Valley, Jimmy had enlisted us for a

first-ascent mission. I’d done some first ascents before but never

in the steep, glacier-carved rock walls of the Darrans, where the

scenery and the sense of adventure are the finest in the country.

We had trudged in with several days of food and a week-long

weather window, so I saw no point in heading down because

of my tailbone woes. At worst, I could sit and relax on tramadol

vibes at Camp Derek while Jimmy and Ben explored the cliffs.

By the following morning, however, I felt sufficiently drugged up

to put my butt to the test. The upper face of the detached megablock

appeared to be blessed with twin cracks, while the lower

face offered a few potential paths to access them. With more

than a touch of nerves and an abundance of tramadol, I chose

the line of least resistance.

I went into a slight panic when, about eight metres up, my

attempt to widen my stance in the middle of a stem corner was

met with a sharp butt-pain. I had to improvise, climbing the face

before traversing onto slabbier terrain.

When we reached the upper face, I started up the left crack

because the right one, uninvitingly, was full of loose blocks of

rock. But higher up, I became increasingly tangled in mental

knots and physical shakes, and I eventually slumped onto

the rope. I offered the lead to Ben, who lowered me and took

over, climbing above my high point where the crack became

increasingly flora-filled.

It’s not easy to trust handfuls of bushes with all of your weight

on vertical terrain. With his forearms ablaze with lactic acid, Ben

yelled down a warning to me that he was going to fall. I braced

myself, but he’s decently heavier than me, and catching him

catapulted me upwards and across the cliff, my head, shoulders

and back rag-dolling against it as I spun uncontrollably.

When I settled, I realised my right shoulder was bleeding. I had

been slung 20m across the wall, which had eaten a 4cm-long

chunk of flesh from it. Luckily, as if I was prepared for this exact

scenario, I had a pocket full of tramadol.

Ben eventually pulled back onto the wall, traversing to the right

crack to avoid the tenuous bush-pulling. The real motivation for

the day’s mission became apparent once we were on top of the

mega-block; Ben had left his camera there after topping out the

chimney two days earlier, and had wanted to retrieve it.

The 150m headwall above us looked thin, hard and, in the

blazing, afternoon sun, unappealing. We descended. Even

though I’d added a bleeding shoulder to my woes, it felt

invigorating to have climbed something new.


Ben Grindle peers over the edge, with Point 2135 looming behind him.

Jimmy Finlayson wades through the Tutoko River on his way back to

civilisation after a week in the wilderness.

Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson cross the Tutoko River on their way to a

remote and unclimbed cliff face.

Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson watch the sunset from Camp Derek.



equip

yourself!

Left: Ben Grindle climbs his way up as cloud fills the lower valley.

Above: Jimmy Finlayson enjoys a cool dip in a natural pool after descending to the river valley.

We experienced the same high the following day, though inadvertently. Ben

and I headed for what we thought was the South Ridge of Milne (grade

18). But Milne is incorrectly labelled on the NZ Topo Maps app, which we

were using to navigate, so we ended up climbing the south ridge of point

2135–an easy and worthwhile scramble with two summits, and maybe a

few moves of grade 14.

We faced one final uncertainty on our last morning: a first descent from

Camp Derek down to the Tutoko River. It started with abseils down slabs,

which converged on water-worn channels and steep waterfalls. Avoiding

these, we traversed and scrambled down verdant slopes to the north. When

they, too, became too steep, we abseiled off shrubs and, at one point, even

a flax bush.

Eventually we had no option but to join the flow of water, where the downclimbing

took on more of a canyoning aspect. As if to reward us, a pool of

the clearest turquoise greeted us near the bottom, where a quick dip in the

afternoon sunshine was obligatory. From there, with the biggest dangers

finally behind us, we had a leisurely stroll alongside the Tutoko River to the

Milford Road.

So, what did I learn? I learned that it's easy to make mistakes, despite

years of experience and, frankly, knowing better. I should have had my first

aid kit close to hand. I should have anchored myself to the wall—which I

did, but didn't do well—to avoid being catapulted across it when catching

Ben's fall. I should have planned for the unexpected.

The question of whether it’s worth it always hangs over any adventure to

the remote parts of the Darrans. The approaches are long and challenging,

the weather often volatile, and the climbing challenging not just in difficulty,

but also in how safe it may or may not be. Such adventures are not for

everyone.

Add in the uncertainty of first-ascent hunting, and the question of whether

it’s worth it only amplifies. But the potential rewards are also amplified.

And if you don’t go, you'll never know.

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kawekas

Autumn Equinox

Words and photos by Eric Skilling

The Camping, the Tramping, and the Incident with the Hunter

Mention that you are off exploring the Kawekas over Easter and most peoples’

response will be ‘where?’. Good news for those who visit there to enjoy the bush,

the birdlife and judging by the activity at night, the hunting, which must be epic.

More on that later.

When the local features are named The Rogue, Mad Dog Hill, and The Tits,

clearly this place has been a playground for those from an era that is well and truly

disappearing into our history. Strangely, after exercising all that imagination the

most creative title they could dream up for the two lakes was ‘The Lakes’.

Ours was a contrasting experience. A day of clear blue skies and light winds with

expansive views from the Pacific to the peaks of Tongariro National Park. Followed

by a day of cold, swirling cloud with landscapes limited to outcrops and peaks that

ghosted their way out of the mists as we made our way across the tops.

The perfect campsite before the storm arrived

Drying out at MacIntosh Hut


Heading towards Kiwi Saddle Hut

Camping Out: One of the many highlights of tramping are the

distinctly different experiences you can be guaranteed as you

settle down each night.

Late the first evening we arrived at the spacious and peaceful

Kuripapango campsite. This is a gem of a place to camp. Set in

a steep and narrow valley at the foot of Te Manihi, surrounded

by thick podocarp forest, with water provided by the crisp and

clear Ngauroro River. Each site is separated by thick stands of

native bush or trees offering many sheltered spots to spend the

night.

By the time we had pitched tents a near full moon appeared

over the surrounding ridges and lit up the valley. It was a

pleasure to doze off to sleep listening to the river and the

odd call from the local morepork. Whoever is responsible for

managing the site deserve a free lifetime supply of whatever

they wish.

My second night up on the ridges could not have been more

different. Several hours away up the ridge, Kiwi Saddle Hut

(1240 metres) is nestled a few metres below the bushline at

the base of a short but steep scree slope. I pitched my oneman

tent in an idyllic setting on a cushion of fine beech leaves,

surrounded by a ring of mountain beech trees.

Sunset that night was a stunner. After walking back up the ridge

above the hut, we watched the sun disappear in an epic display

of orange, yellow and reds, exaggerating the rugged ridges of

Ruapehu in the distance. In the other direction a full moon slid

its way above the Pacific Ocean as the sea turned from a dark

steel blue to black.

In hindsight a night in the hut may have been the wiser choice

that night. An energetic southerly started skimming its way up

the ridge, bending the tops of the trees, encouraging me to

tighten guy ropes and re-position tent pegs. Then, instead of

dozing off to the soothing calls of a morepork, I was treated to a

visit by the local possum, grunting and chattering its indignation

just outside my tent.

Shortly after midnight, I was woken up by the loud rush of the

southerly in the treetops above me and the sprinkle of light

drizzle on the tent. A short time later, as I knew it would, the

drizzle that had been collecting in the trees above started the

random and much louder splatters against the side of the tent.

At this stage I was very grateful to those tent designers at

Macpac.

There was no way we would be enjoying the sunrise over

Hawkes Bay, but hey, I got to sleep in an extra half hour.


Variety of river crossing on our final day

Our third night was spent at Macintosh Hut several hundred

metres below the tops, safely protected from those gusty southerly

winds. Nicely placed on a small grassy flat overlooking a small

wetland, surrounded by lush, mature forest, this is justifiably a

popular hut, especially for hunters. Equinox is the time of the roar,

so instead of the howl of wind we got to enjoy the high-pitched

whistle and he-haw of sika deer throughout the night as they

wandered around the valley asserting themselves. Sika are a

pest, but somehow it all feels a bit more remote and wild listening

to the roar.

The Tramping: As is so often the case in New Zealand, you step

out of the car park and then either cross a river or climb straight

up a hill. This time it was a very manageable 500-metre climb

to Kuripapango (1250 metres) on a warm cloudless day, with a

gentle southerly breeze keeping us comfortably cool. Bliss.

Beginning amongst some tall pines, the trail winds its way through

thick fern which clung to our boots and soaked our gaiters. This

became scattered stands of juvenile wild pine as we reached the

summit.

Once onto the ridge the track disappeared into the stillness of

beech forest, home for a few piwakaka, bellbirds and robin. At the

first clearing where we were greeted by the welcoming view of the

mighty Ruapehu and the coned tip of Ngauruhoe, both looking a

lot closer than I had expected. To the east Hawkes Bay curved

round towards the cliffs of Cape Kidnappers, although Cooks Horn

maunga hid any sign of the city.

The next day made us appreciate the blue skies of the previous

day. Setting off into the mist, rugged up in beanies, scarves,

gloves, layers of merino and Gore-Tex, we followed the ridgeline

to the highest point at Kaiarahi (1507 metres). Instead of

spectacular vistas of the region we were buffeted by a cold wind

which turned the drizzle into a saturating shower and kept visibility

dropping as low as 50 metres. The terrain ahead became a

mystery until it materialised out the gloom. The upside was the

greens, whites and even purples of the alpine plants stood out

under the varnish of water.

Clumps of thick beech forest on the leeward side became havens of

calm with occasional cries of native birds, relishing the rain. Despite

the cold and damp, spirits were high amongst the group, and we

kept up a good pace and arrived at Macintosh hut a lot earlier than

expected. It was a pleasure to enjoy the view from the deck, a cup

of hot, sweetened coffee a gingernut, and more banter.

It took a bit longer than we expected to make our way back to

the carpark on the final day. Halfway along a well-marked path

Karen consulted the app on her phone and discovered we were

well off the designated path and gaining altitude when we should

have been heading down. We backtracked and found the original

path had been blocked off with a pile of manuka bush. Thanks to

Karen this was a short diversion, and we were only a few minutes

late by the time we reached the Tutaekuri River crossing.

Incident with the Hunter in the Bush

Sometimes conveniences are just not that inconvenient. Such

as on the track. Finding myself caught short I dropped my pack,

grabbed a roll of the finest triple-ply, and bashed my way 20 or

30 metres into the bush. Stepping behind the largest tree trunk

I could find, I ripped some branches off a small tree and began

digging. ‘Some-time-later’ I was just about to make my way back

to the path when the roar of a stag made me freeze.

It was close. Very close. Surely it would have been scared off by

the sound of my bush-bashing? I began to scan the bush around

me and then saw a flash of bright yellow a short distance away.

Realisation dawned on me. I was being hunted! Suddenly the

branches of the trees around me looked like a mass of antlers – 8,

10, 12 pointers seemed to surround me.

I managed to stammer out a “Hey! Oi! You right mate!” A pause,

and then “yeah mate” came back at me through the trees. The

relief I had experienced moments earlier paled into insignificance

compared to the liberation I felt at that moment.

Cam the hunter turned out to be a good keen bloke, Having

already bagged a stag earlier that day, he was heading back to

the hut to collect his gear before heading out replete with 20kg

of fresh venison. Thanks for not shooting me Cam. You added a

unique but unwelcome thrill to a memorable trek. A bright yellow

cap is on my shopping list.

The Kaweka Range

There are a lot of people who care about this place. Some

invaluable work has been done to protect kiwi and the forest is

regenerating after widespread burn-off in mid 1950s. The vistas

are unique, the huts are well placed and well maintained. What

more can I say.

Thanks also to Jetboil, Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine, Keen and

Karen’s App.


DISCOVERED

UNDER ICE.

SERVED

OVER ICE.

#OpenForAdventure

TheShackletonWhisky.com

Please enjoy Shackleton responsibly

“The harsh climate and remoteness of the Mackenzie

demanded strength of its men and woman, steel, a breadth

of vision and self-sufficiency that would grow, in human

terms, to match their grand environment. In later years

it was said there was something special about the people

who lived in the Mackenzie, an heroic proportion, and that

when they spoke of ‘going down’ to the coast there was

something more than physical about the descent.”

Pattern of Water - The Great Southern Lakes of New Zealand by Philip Temple


MACKENZIE

REGION

*

mackenzie region

someplace special

The folks who call this special place home all have

something in common: passion for their unique region,

and genuine high-country hospitality. The towns of

Twizel, Lake Tekapo and Fairlie provide you with all

you need to enjoy this paradise: quality cafés, bars,

and eateries; shops specialising in outdoor gear; and a

variety of accommodation to choose from.

Those who love the Mackenzie keep coming back for

good reason: the larger-than-life scale of the gold,

white and turquoise landscape; the utter silence and

tranquillity; and the sparse, denuded landscape that

reduces everything to the most simple and uncluttered

elements. It’s a place to lose yourself and allow the

calmness and equanimity of the outdoors to reduce your

human concerns and schedules to a pervading ‘right

here right now’ mindset.

Read on for our suggestions on some unique things to

see and do in our Legendary Mackenzie!

Macaulay ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55

Valley -Image by Hollie Woodhouse

Above: She's on the Fly

Right: She's on Skis - Image by Alpine Recreation

She’s On Skis

Carving your own turns on fresh, unmarked snow is

one of the joys of backcountry skiing. Add to that no

queue lines and a sense of being the only people in the

world, and you’ve got a compelling case to head into the

mountains for some backcountry adventures!

Join a fun-filled week of ski touring and exploring

stunning glaciers with “She’s On Skis”, Alpine

Recreation’s girls-only group, guided by two of NZ's

select few female ski guides. The groups typically base

themselves at Kelman, Tasman Saddle, Centennial,

Pioneer or Plateau Huts, and undertake day tours

from there. Depending on conditions and group ability

some very fine peaks may be climbed on skis: Elie de

Beaumont, Minarets, Hochstetter Dome and many more.

Get your ladies together and create your own unique

adventure in a truly epic setting!

She’s On The Fly

Hannah Clement’s childhood was spent exploring

outdoors with her dad and brothers. From there a love

and passion for the wilderness was born, and Hannah

ended up becoming New Zealand’s first registered fulltime

female professional fly fishing guide. She hopes to

inspire more girls and women to become involved in the

outdoors.

Starting her own fly fishing company ‘She’s On The Fly’

Hannah is now busy running tours around the South

Island. The Mackenzie is a special place for her to

take clients to catch brown and rainbow trout. You can

opt a full day guiding, multi-day adventures, and even

helicopter camp-outs.

There’s something special about seeing nature from the

perspective of being waist deep in a river. Watching a

falcon flying overheard and tracking its shadow as it falls

on the water, seeing mountains and trees rise out of the

landscape, and the rippling water coursing around your

body as you commune with the elements. Fly fishing

takes patience but is hugely rewarding. It’s a natural

stress reliever that helps lower blood pressure, reduce

stress hormones, and decrease muscle tension.

From the initial choosing of the right fly for the right time

of day, to gracefully casting the line over the water, and

finally the rush of excitement as a trout sucks the fly

into its mouth – this is why fly fishing is addictive and

rewarding!



Above: Alpine Guides Barron Saddle Ski Touring / Below: Macaulay Hut, Image by Hollie Woodhouse

Barron Saddle Ski Touring

Macaulay Hut

From their beginnings in 1966, Alpine Guides have

remained committed to honest expectations, safety,

reliability, and a philosophy built on lessons gleaned

from decades of guiding in the mountains. They’ve

fostered generations of skiers, climbers and guides

– providing them with opportunities for further

adventures.

Join them for a three-day excursion on the Barron

Saddle, one of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park’s

classic ski tours. This is for experienced and

competent ski tourers with some alpine climbing

experience. If you don’t have these skills then you

can always look at joining one of their climbing

school courses or backcountry ski touring camps.

The Barron Saddle tour is available from mid-

August to spring, during the time when snow

conditions are usually optimum. At an elevation

of 1,995 metres, the Barron Saddle Hut is located

at the head of the Mueller Glacier looking into the

Dobson Valley. The hut sleeps eight and is a cozy

barrel in the mountains with solar powered lights

and basic amenities. There are some side summits

available for the right party in the right conditions,

with backups for avalanche risk/poor weather.

Looking for a nice modern hut to spend a weekend

away? Macaulay Hut is well-looked after and has 14

bunk beds, cooking, heating, lighting, mattresses,

non-flush toilet and tap water. It’s a great base to

explore the surrounding valleys, streams and rivers.

Macaulay Hut is owned by the Mackenzie Alpine

Trust and the recommended donation is $10 per

person. The hut is located in the Sibbald Mountain

Range north of Lake Tekapo. The track starts at the

end of the shingle Lilybank Road, and is 18km long

and suitable only for 4WD as there are some river

crossings and boulders to avoid. Another option is

to leave your vehicle in a designated parking area

and cross the river on foot and walk to the hut.

Mountain biking or horse riding are other options to

reach the hut.

Once at the hut it’s up to you whether to keep

exploring the local area, or simply unpack, open a

bottle of wine, and sit in the sunshine and marvel

at the pristine location. You’ve arrived and there’s

nothing more to concern yourself with other than

the easy tasks of enjoying dinner and playing some

cards well into the star-studded night with your

companions.


Above: BeSpoke Bike Tours - image by Mitchell Clark Creative

Right: Images compliments of Tekapo Wellness

BeSpoke Bike Tours

Annie O’Sullivan grew up in the North Island to farming parents and loved

physical activity, especially in the outdoors. Later on she became a multisport

athlete and outdoor education teacher. Annie chose to quit teaching

and start her own business because she liked the idea of linking her

passion with work, and working for herself. After noticing there were no bike

businesses at Lake Tekapo, Annie seized the opportunity and launched

BeSpoke Bike Tours, now entering their fifth season.

In 2014, Genesis Energy closed the Tekapo Canal road to cars, which

opened up the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail’s alternate start from Lake Tekapo.

This move has seen an increasing amount of cyclists choosing to begin their

315km adventure from Lake Tekapo, removing the need for a helicopter

crossing across the Tasman River at official start Aoraki/Mount Cook

National Park. Cycling on the canal road is easy (so long as it’s not windy!)

and the views are expansive in the largest sense of the word. The golden

grasslands stretch away unbroken until reaching the faraway mountain

ranges, while being crisscrossed with canals of the most vivid turquoise

and sea-green colours. You’ll pass by people fishing for those recordbreaking

trout and salmon, and enjoying the tranquillity of the grandly sparse

landscape.

An interesting ride offered by BeSpoke Bike Tours is to start from Dog

Kennel Corner, over the Mackenzie Pass, and around to finish in Burkes

Pass. The ride is a pleasant 40km, off the beaten track, and a chance to

enjoy the unparalleled wide-open spaces of the Mackenzie Region away

from the highways. On this ride, you can dig into the history of the area,

including the James MacKenzie Memorial, a three-sided obelisk with the

inscription in English, Māori and Gaelic: “In this spot James Mackenzie, the

freebooter, was captured by John Sidebottom and the Māoris Taiko and

Seventeen and escaped from them the same night.”

It was back in 1855 when James was caught with 1,000 sheep that were

allegedly stolen from a station near Timaru. Several escapes, imprisonment,

road gang work, a mistrial controversy, and a subsequent pardon made

him into a folk legend. The local farmers resented the power of wealthy

landowners, and his pardon was popular in the frontier society that hailed

James as a shepherd, drover and thief extraordinaire. And thus the

area, known as Te Manahuna to the Māori, became widely known as the

Mackenzie Region.

Wellness Retreats

Arriving at Lake Tekapo, with the majestic mountains

and stunning lake, you can just feel your worries melt

away. This special setting makes it the ideal wellness

destination for retreats, yoga classes and workshops.

Tekapo Wellness was founded by Penny Wilson, a

Lake Tekapo resident who is passionate about sharing

this stunning location with visitors to the region.

With a background in human nutrition and exercise

science, Penny says Lake Tekapo is perfect as it

allows her to combine her passion for health with

her love for the mountains and the outdoors. The

most rewarding role of her work is hosting women on

retreats and workshops, and seeing the difference that

a bit of time, space and encouragement makes.

In addition to yoga and relaxation, a series of

workshops helps participants to explore and learn

tools for positive change. They also enjoy some down

time to walk, read or sleep, and top it off with delicious

whole foods.

Penny enjoys working alongside other local

businesses, recently trialling Wellness Wednesdays

at Tekapo Springs with yoga, hot pools, spa and

massage. In September she will be heading for the ski

hills with a ‘mountain magic’ yoga and ski package.

She is also very excited to be taking her overnight

retreats into the backcountry next summer – watch this

space!


Come cycling in stunning

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experts look after all your needs

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail

and more...

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Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366

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outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Jacket $999.99

Built for and by alpine climbers for

protection from the elements with 3-layer

GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with a

3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panel

along the upper back. Features a trim fit,

pit zips and pack-and-harness-compatible

pockets. 471g (medium)

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95

With its active fit, 100% recycled

down and fabrics, and body mapped

baffles, the Women’s Microlight

Jacket is the ultimate multipurpose

women’s down jacket.



FEATURED PRODUCT

rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95

From long evenings and epic sunrise missions to

casual days at the crag, the Cubit Stretch Down

Hoody is versatile and warm. Offering functionality

and style for everyday outdoor adventures, this jacket

combines ground-breaking weaving techniques,

innovative stretch technology and the highest quality

P.U.R.E. recycled down for next-level comfort.

The Cubit is insulated with top performing 700 fill

power P.U.R.E. recycled down that has been finished

with Nikwax hydrophobic treatment, giving a second

life to down that might otherwise end up in landfill.

The down-filled hood has a stretch binding to give a

close, secure fit even on windy days.


Macpac Women’s Sundowner Down Jacket $429.99

Keep warm on cool-weather hikes.

Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon lets

600 loft water resistant HyperDRY

duck down fully loft to maximise thermal

efficiency. An additional DWR coating

encourages water to bead and roll off the

fabric’s surface. The high chin has a soft

lining, and the hood can be unzipped and

removed as well. Also available in men’s

sizes.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Women’s Icefall Down Jacket $499.99

Macpac’s highest performing down jacket,

developed with the New Zealand Alpine

team for weight-conscious climbers. 800 loft

water resistant HyperDRY goose down

fill and PrimaLoft® Gold synthetic insulation

provides warmth in damp conditions.

Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon made

with interlocking Y Fuse yarns for maximum

performance and longevity. Also available

in men’s sizes.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

patagonia Nano-Air® Jacket $379.95

This jacket was made to be worn for the

entirety of your aerobic, start-stop alpine

missions, so you’re never slowed down

by changing layers. Warm, stretchy and

breathable it’s Fair Trade Certified sewn.

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ


Cotopaxi Teca Cálido Jacket $249.99

Two looks, one jacket – for year round versatility. The Teca

Cálido is the most sustainable reversible jacket made from 100%

repurposed fabric – shell & insulation.

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ

Macpac Women’s Copland Raincoat $429.99

Make the most of big hikes in bad weather. 3-layer

Pertex® Shield fabric is durable, waterproof,

windproof and breathable. An additional DWR coating

increases protection, and a longer cut ensures plenty

of coverage. The hood can also be rolled away and

secured. Also available in men’s sizes.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Cotopaxi Teca Fleece Pullover $189.99

Sustainably-minded, super

cosy and colourful - the Teca

Fleece is a must have layer for

all adventures. Consciously

created from remnant fabric

and recycled materials.

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ

outdoor research Cirque II Pants $249.99

4-season pants for your highoutput

alpine adventures. Features

avalanche beacon pocket and a

harness-compatible waist. Water,

wind and abrasion resistant.

Movement-mirroring stretch and

unmatched breathability.

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

outdoor research Voodoo Pants $159.99

Perfect for climbing and walking

adventures and still comfortable

for spring ski tours. Water and

wind-resistant, stretchy UPF

50+ soft shell fabric. Available in

black and charcoal.

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ


Cotopaxi Del Día Bags & Packs $79.99-$469.99

Del Día gear uses 100% repurposed fabric – keeping

perfectly good materials out of landfill, putting them

into the hands of thoughtful adventurers like you.

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ

Akktive High Performance women's Boardshorts usd$45.00

Designed by WSL Big Wave World Surfing Champion

Keala Kennelly. 4-way stretch fabric with durable

elasticity & soft texture is comfortable, breathable,

and lightweight in both dry and wet conditions

WWW.AKKTIVE.COM

MERRELL Bravada Sunset Print - Women’s $229.00

This female focused hiker features the fit and feel of a

sneaker with the traction and performance of a hiker to

bring the wearer lightweight and stable comfort while out

on the trial.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

MERRELL Antora 2 Eco Dyed - Women’s $259.00

The Antora is uniquely tailored to a Woman’s foot with sneaker light

comfort mixed with confidence boosting support and traction. This

version of the Merrell best selling trail walker/runner is made with

solution dyed yarns, a process that uses less water and energy

compared to traditional dyeing methods.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

MERRELL Moab 3 Mid Waterproof - Women’s $299.00

The #1 hiking shoe in the world just got better. The

Moab 3 family is now made more comfortable, with

more eco-friendly material choices and more stabile

with great grip for any trail. This Mid features a

waterproof liner to keep your feet dry while out hiking.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

MERRELL Siren 3 Gore-Tex $319.00

Designed specifically for women, this hiker is built with Q Form 2

technology and a Vibram Megagrip outsole for confidence no matter

the terrain. Featuring a lightweight mesh upper and a GORE-TEX

waterproof membrane for exceptional breathability performance.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ


Serving Hot Mexican & Cool Margaritas since 1995

Locations in Alexandra, Cromwell, Dunedin, Invercargill, and Wanaka

See the latest menu and BOOK ONLINE at

www.amigos.co.nz

@amigos_nz

GLERUPS HONEY RUBBER BOOT $199.00

Give your feet a comfy break after a day of adventure

and try the comfiness and softness of 100% natural

wool. Available in slipper, shoe and boot with a

leather or rubber sole. Get natural, get cosy and get

yourself some glerups.

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ

SALEWA RAPACE GTX $549.90

The Rapace GTX is a lightweight mountaineering boot with a hardwearing

nubuck upper with waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®

protection. The 3F System provides ankle support, flexibility and a

perfect fit. Our Bilight TPU technology and Nylon + 27% Fiberglass in

the midsole ensures an ergonomic hold and allows the use of semiautomatic

crampons. There’s a full rubber rand for protection against

rock and scree, and the Vibram WTC outsole has an aggressive tread

pattern that gives good traction yet provides a natural feel and secure

grip on mixed terrain.

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 740 g (W) 615 g (pictured)

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

salEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GORE-TEX® $499.90

Our Mountain Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine trekking boot

with a suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®

Performance Comfort lining. At the ankle, the Flex Collar allows

natural movement and the 3F System provides flexibility, support

and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we feature a dual-density Bilight TPU

midsole and a Vibram® WTC outsole.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured)


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90

The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric

upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®

Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.

The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers

allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot; Climbing Lacing

right to the toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Alpine

Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum of mountain terrain.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured).


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90

Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our

lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well

on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-

TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity

levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g (pictured)



exped Women’s Comfort -10 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium) $599.99

Women's-specific design fits to 180cm (small version available fits

to 170cm) 3D footbox has a separate zip so you can open it out.

Side arm zip opposite the main zip lets you use both arms without

leaving the warmth of the bag, 675g RDS-certified European duckdown.

1190g

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Rumpl Nanoloft Puffy Blanket – Crisp Fade $329.99

Keeping you toasty wherever you go. Our

Blankets combine our synthetic insulation (100%

post-consumer plastics) with the same technical

materials found in premium puffer jackets.

WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ

kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Rooftop Tent $3999.00

Our lowest profile rooftop tent at only 17cm. The Hard Shell

can be fully set up in under 1-minute with the pop-up gas

struts. Cargo tray sold separately.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Tent

Top Rails $89.99

Designed to fit our Hard Shell Rooftop

tent for added storage capacity for

your adventures. Great for surfboards,

kayaks and other gear.


Kiwi camping Matai Camper +5° Sleeping Bag

$99.99

The Matai Camper is a lightweight sleeping

bag ideal for general camping. Includes our

semi-tapered shape design and adjustable

draft collar to trap warmth.


Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -0°C Sleeping Bag

$129.00

The Mamaku Pro provides exceptional warmth

on cold adventures. The semi-tapered design

features a drawstring contoured hood that

packs down into the handy compression bag

for easy pack and carry.


Kiwi Camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping

Bag $119.00

The Mamaku Trek sleeping bag is ideal

for trekking or camping adventures.

The semi-tapered design features

a drawstring-adjustable contoured

hood that packs down into the handy

compression bag for easy pack and

carry.



FIND YOUR

OWN WAY.

AT THE END OF THE DAY, IT’S ALL ABOUT FREEDOM – go where you want, when you want,

making the most of this country we live in. We hear you, and we’ve got what you need.

4601-07/22

PAIGE HAREB | NZ PROFESSIONAL SURFER | CASTLEPOINT BEACH | 4.08PM | SUNDAY 3 APRIL

Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch

Born from Adventure: Shackleton

Blended Malt Scotch is based on

the spirit supplied to the 1907 British

Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted

using a selection of the finest Highland

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available

at various Liquor Retailers .

WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ

deepcreek Endless Summer WCIPA $8.99

Roll out the red carpet, this playful lion

has arrived! This Extroverted Hazy IPA

is packed full of fun + perfect for your

next adventure!

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE

Inspired by the innovative,

everchanging drinks scene, we

instinctively knew how a drop of

Jägermeister and a backbeat of cold

brew coffee could transform any

night. The enviable result? A brandnew

mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD

BREW COFFEE. A unique fusion

of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56 botanicals

and intense cold brew coffee.

WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ

TIRED

LEGS?

ONE FOR THE ROAD - STONE SOFA KOLSCH

$7.95

Crisp, delicate and oh-so-drinkable!

These light and refreshing ale-lager

hybrids are perfect for during or after

activities and have become favoured

by beer lovers. It has a thirst quenching

ability along with being a fun beer to

enjoy with food.

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better

by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also

improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

ONE FOR THE ROAD - GOT HOPS? IPA $7.95

Fruity, citrus-like characteristics grab

your attention. This beer is all about

the hop flavour, aroma and bitterness.

It'll make you smile, refresh you and

leave you satisfied long enough to get

another!

FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

Experts at adventure travel since 2000

We live what we sell!

www.madabouttravel.co.nz

Temerature. Taste. Transport.

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.

www.hydroflask.co.nz

Our mission is to produce

the best quality beers

possible across a range of

flavours and styles and to

have fun doing it!

www.dcbrewing.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Our very own online store where

you will find hard goods to keep you

equipped for any adventure.

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

www.lightandfast.co.nz

Fresh powder. Glassy lakes. Lush bush. Icy glaciers. Virgin

trails. Awe-inspiring views. We're all about the Southern Alps,

and we're all about adventure. Proudly 100% NZ owned,

Southern Alps Brewing Co uses NZ's finest hops and malt to

produce a premium, crisp and clean lager.

www.southernalpsbrewing.com

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.

www.localdehy.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and

tested in New Zealand since 1973.

www.macpac.co.nz

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor

clothing and more.

www.livingsimply.co.nz

www.glerups.co.nz

glerups shoes, slippers

and boots are known for

their exceptional comfort

and unique design.

Over the years we have

perfected the wool mix

by blending Gotland

wool with quality wool

from New Zealand

farmers.

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both

adventure and global change, by dedicating a

percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve

the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

With stores in Clyde and

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is

your access point to the

Central Otago Bike trials: T

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge

and more...

New Zealand’s first online

store solely dedicated to

Non Alcoholic adult drinks.

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

t r a v e l

KAYAK SAMOA

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL

"Do we have to wear spray decks?" Judy asked as

we went through the kayak briefing. "We didn't need

them on Sydney harbour, and they always make me

feel unsafe."

"Yep, everyone has to wear skirts on this trip,” I

replied with a smile, referring to the neoprene deck

covers by their other popular name. "These are full

sea kayaks. For the first few days, we will be inside

the reef, and skirts aren't critical, but if the wind

comes up suddenly and we are outside the reef or if

we have to cross the reef with an awkward current,

the deck becomes essential to staying afloat."

We were starting a nine-day kayak trip around Upolu,

the most populated island of Samoa, it lies across the

Apolima Strait from the island of Savaiʿi to the west.

Upolu is about 74 km long and 26 km across at its

widest point, and while we wouldn't kayak the whole

way, we planned to visit as many of the small coastal

islands as we could.

That first day we paddled within the lagoon to

Manono Island. After lunch, we used the excuse of

a kayak-based snorkel over the coral outcrops to

practice wet exits, falling out of the kayak while fully

skirted in and deep-water re-entries, getting back into

the kayak when it's too deep to boost off the bottom.

In tropical water and with only fish as onlookers, it's

an exercise I always enjoy as the initial trepidation

turns to confident smiles.

Dogs, cars, and bicycles are banned on Manono

Island, which, as you can imagine, creates a peaceful

environment; a coastal walking track connects the

three traditional villages. An afternoon stroll that we

had expected to take two hours stretched into dusk

as we frequently stopped to talk to the locals, join in

village volleyball games and spent time listening to a

choir practising for a wedding.



The following day we were up early and

paddled out to Nuulopa Island in the

half-light to watch the flying foxes return

to roost on this tiny, uninhabited tooth of

an island that had once been part of a

volcano rim. The bats forage overnight

on the plentiful papaya and other tropical

fruits of the main islands before returning

to crowded roosting trees which are

overhanging the sea. Here they fight and

squabble noisily for a branch from which

to hang and sleep the day away. Our

attention was divided between the bats

and the spectacular orange sunrise that

sparkled off the water around Manono.

That afternoon we snorkelled through

a colony of giant clams in Le Faga Bay.

These fluorescent molluscs are almost a

metre long and located in a sheltered area

less than 100 metres from shore. With a

water temperature more like that of a tepid

bath, we inevitably left the water only once

we were too wrinkled as we were never

going to be too cold.

By day 5, we had had several adventures

outside the reef, including visiting

Nuusafee Island. Landing there involved

negotiating the reef entrance. A few of our

group in their kayaks decided to surf small

reefs on the way. The sense of being alone

in paradise was intense as we swam in the

lagoon and picnicked on the white sand

beach.

For most of us, the highlight of the trip

was Namua Island. To get there, we had

taken an unusual route, paddling from the

beachside resort of Lalomanu around the

outside of Nuutele Island. We had to be

careful as there was a metre-high swell

running with a significant chop created

from the backwash off the island. You

never know what you might see in this

tranquil, unspoilt water; out of the blue

(literally), someone spotted a whale spout

a few hundred metres away, and as we

watched it, from a different direction a

fine blubbery-smelling mist drifted over

us from another whale that had breached

unnoticed right beside us. September

and October are the peak months when

humpback whales (tafolā) visit Samoa, but

you can often see them all year round.

The only habitation on Namua is a small

collection of Beach Fales on the sandy

beach in a wilderness paradise. The island

rears up behind the coast, providing a lofty

lookout for whales and dolphins in the bay

and is a convenient base for exploring the

nearby islands. From here, we kayaked

across to Fanuatapu Island, where we had

recently found and cleared a track to the

small lighthouse. From the lighthouse, we

watched frigate birds in aerial dog fights

with other tropical birds. The frigate birds

have no protective oil in their feathers and

so get most of their food by stealing it on

the wing off other species.

Lesa, the 13-year-old daughter of the

proprietor of the Namua resort, suggested

we attempt a walk around the outside of

the island. "It is easy enough at low tide

if the sea is moderate." Then she added,

"Don't tell my dad, but we got swept off the

rocks one day."

That was just the incentive we needed,

and we spent the next hour clambering

around. Fortunately, it was a relatively

calm sea so we could enjoy the island’s

wild side. We were admiring the walking

fish on the rocks, the boobies circling

overhead to the backdrop of the crashing

surf.

Towards the end of our trip, we paddled

to Nuutele Island. Entering the deep

water outside the reef entrance, we were

surprised by a giant turtle just resting

on the surface. Too big to be worried

by our presence, he looked at us lazily

before slowly swimming away. An

escort of swooping gannets and petrels

accompanied us as we approached the

island.

Nuutele island was once home to a leper

colony, and it seemed that sea conditions

might be calm enough for us to land. A

narrow channel had been blasted through

an inner reef, and we took turns running

the gauntlet to crash onto the shore of

rounded coral boulders in a very wet

landing. The colony's ruins were mute

testimony to how brutal life before penicillin

was. The foundations were littered with

coconut shells tossed there by big swells,

and the only water supply was a trickle

down a rock face.

Under a Samoan setting sun, we were

being fanned by the warm tropical breeze

as we had each day of the trip. We

finished back at our cottage with a meal

of seared premium masimasi tuna steaks

and a local ribeye steak with green papaya

salad. And inevitably, we planned the next

trip over one too many Vailima beers and

glasses of fine New Zealand wine.

Outdoor Samoa have safely run bike and

kayak tours in Samoa for 14 years. With

a fleet of over 100 bikes and 20 modern

sea kayaks they provide 9-day all inclusive

tours from $1,750 NZD.

Contact Ross and Frances at:

office@outdoor.co.nz to organise

a custom tour or join a group.

Outdoorsamoa.com


It’s been worth the wait. We look forward to seeing you soon. Re-discover

how beautiful Samoa truly is. Explore untouched landscapes and dive in

warm crystal clear waters packed with tropical fish. Self drive, bike or stroll

through the wonders that make this island life one to cherish just like the

locals do.

t r a v e l

Captain Andy using a sextant

SOUTH SEAS SHANTIES

Islands have long held a deep, abiding

fascination. Everyone who has grappled

with getting along with their fellow human

being understands the phrase “can’t

live with them, can’t live without them”.

Everyone has at some time mused on what

life would be like on a remote deserted

island, alone with only the sound of the

gentle wash against the sunbleached

sands.

Perhaps it’s because so few have dared

make this daydream a reality that such

men as Robert Dean Frisbie (“The Book

of Pukapuka”, “The Island of Desire”) and

Tom Neale (“An Island to Oneself”) take

on an almost mythical role in our collective

consciousness, as though they carry upon

their shoulders all our yearnings for a

simple, solitary life in tune with the tides of

nature.

An American, Robert Dean Frisbie became

captivated by the Northern Cook Islands,

sailing to view the black pearl beds in

Penryhn, to Manihiki and to the now

legendary Suwarrow (Suvarov), where he

was later to tie his 4 small children to the

trunks of island mahogany trees to save

their lives from violent hurricane winds.

A New Zealander, Tom Neale became

frustrated after four years in the New

Zealand Navy, visiting many South Pacific

island ports but feeling as though he’d

never really experienced island life. Buying

himself out of the Navy, Neale started

wandering from island to island, taking odd

jobs as the need arose.

As well as many of the Cook Islands he

also visited the Pago Pago of Somerset

Maugham, the Apia of James Michener,

and the Tahiti of Paul Gauguin. He came to

deeply love the islands which he described

as “pearls across the South Pacific” and

most of all, he longed to truly experience

island solitude.

It was 1943 when Tom Neale came to meet

Robert Dean Frisbie, a profound event

Captain Andy with island

adventurer and author TOM

NEALE, aboard the Tiare Taporo

ADVENTURES IN RAROTONGA

which was to change his life. The two were

introduced by Captain Andy Thomson, a

respected man of the sea and character

in his own right, a bluff, hearty man with

steady blue eyes, a natural command, and

the accent of a Brooklyn cab driver.

Tom Neale had served as engineer on

Captain Andy’s 100 ton island schooner

‘Tiare Taporo’ (‘Lime Blossom’), which

traded copra and other goods between

Tahiti, the Cook Islands and New Zealand

during the 1940s and ‘50s.

Captain Andy then offered Neale a job

as an outer island general storekeeper,

and invited him over to his hand-built

coral home which now stands, restored

and expanded, opposite The Rarotongan

Beach Resort & Lagoonarium.*

Andy’s renowned talents as a ready host

and raconteur with a racy vocabulary won

him many friends, among them fellow

blown-away American Robert Dean Frisbie.

It is perhaps no accident that all three men

– Frisbie, Thomson and later also Neale –

became such firm friends. All three shared

a deep love of islands, and of adventure.

Born in New York in 1887, Andy Thomson

grew up on Long Island which in his day

was crowded with square-riggers and big

steamers. His wanderlust led him to ‘ride

the (railway) rods’ as a hobo all over the

United States before serving his sailing

apprenticeship on square-riggers going

down the east coast of the Americas

and round the demonic Horn, as well

as voyages to Alaska (where he also

worked constructing railways) and as a

quartermaster within the Great Lakes.

He first saw Rarotonga from the deck of

a Boston barque when he was just 15.

Seduced by the South Seas, he returned

a few years later, marrying a local girl

and making their home on the island’s

southwest coast.

Within two days of arriving in the Cook

Captain Andy’s coral & limestone

house which sits directly opposite

The Rarotongan. Captain Andy

and his Rarotongan wife are laid to

rest alongside his old family home

Islands to take up his storekeeping job,

Neale was invited over to Andy Thomson’s

house, and there, on the broad verandah,

over glasses of excellent rum muddled

with the juice of squeezed limes and sugar,

Neale met the man who was to inspire him

like no other. The two men immediately

connected, and during the long, intense

conversations which followed in which

Frisbie would extol the beauty of Suwarrow

in his deep, captivating voice, Neale

became intent on finding any way possible

to live on this most remote of islands in the

very navel of the South Pacific.

When Neale eventually cast eyes upon

Suwarrow for the first time, it was aboard

Captain Andy’s ‘Tiare Taporo’, edging

towards Anchorage on a calm sea as

though “floating on vast pieces of coloured

satin”.

He later recalled in his famed account of

his hermetic life on Suwarrow, “An Island

To Oneself”, that when he looked down

into the water that morning “I thought I

had never seen so many colours in my life

as the vivid blues, greens and even pinks

... no painter could have imitated those

colours.”

“An Island to Oneself” was to further fire

the imaginations of all those who have

dreamt of a simple life of solitude on a

remote deserted island. It may be true that

no man is an island, but it is also true that

many a man has desperately wished they

were one.

* Captain Andy’s final resting place lies

across the Circle Island Road from The

Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium,

beside his original home which the Resort

has restored as a heritage building and

where guests can book to stay, 3-Bedroom

Private Pool & Spa Villa Tiare Taporo (Lime

Blossom). The Resort’s Captain Andy’s

Beach Bar & Grill is named in his honour,

and a new extension to Captain Andy’s

with direct views onto his beloved sea has

recently been opened.


Captain Andy used to enjoy a quiet swim at the beach across the road from his home. This stretch of white sandy beach –

Aroa Beach - now sits directly in front of The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium


Cook Islands.

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022

Float above the world’s bluest blue

OVERWATER HEAVEN

Images by Steve Dickinson

Surround yourself in an

ocean of beauty while diving

in The Islands of Tahiti. Here

you’ll dive in the presence

of deep-sea giants such

as sharks, rays, turtles and

dolphins.

Our waters are teeming with

life where each dive brings a

new treasure to uncover and

a new story for you to share.

DIVING.TAHITITOURISME.COM

t r a v e l

DIVING

THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI

Size isn't everything but it sure is impressive!

The first thing that anyone talks about after diving in The Islands of

Tahiti, is the presence of sharks, rays, and cetaceans (whales and

dolphins). There are no less than twenty species of sharks. There are

rays in abundance, especially the manta rays, which is an unforgettable

sight underwater.

As early as 2002, The Islands of Tahiti issued a decree declaring its

territorial waters as a (sanctuary for whales and marine mammals). A

choice which has borne fruit, since each year, from July to November,

dozens of humpback whales migrate to The Islands of Tahiti ‘s waters

to give birth. Not to mention the dolphins, such as in Rangiroa, where

a colony of bottlenose dolphins, familiar with divers and come to meet

them daily.

But it would not be fair to limit this description to the presence of these

giants of the sea, because the other characteristic of the regions water

is the diversity and profusion of life that they shelter, both in the open

sea (tunas, barracudas, kingfish...) and on the reefs (turtles, parrotfish,

grouper, angelfish, butterfly fish, perch, and so many others). There

are over 50 diving centres found in The Islands of Tahiti, and an

underwater landscape as large as Europe where each island reveals

underwater its own unique identity. Whether you are a beginner or an

experienced diver, there is a dive experience exactly right for you.

TAHITI

Tahiti, (the main island) with its variable

underwater landscape, is accessible for all levels.

Most dives take place on drop-offs that are ideal

for observing the fauna, around which gravitate

a multitude of fish of all species, including turtles

or Honu in Tahitian, the source of many Tahitian

legends.

Our top four:

Seaplane and the Schooner - Lagoon, 6-21m

(20ft) One dive, two wrecks! These two wrecks

were sunk intentionally: the Catalina type

seaplane in 1962 and the schooner, a former

bomb disposal unit in 1976. Many species have

taken up residence here!

The Marado - Ocean, 18-43m (60-40ft) It’s a

drop off with an amazing relief makes it one of the

most beautiful sites of Tahiti Iti and accessible to

all. Covered with gorgonian fans from 20m (65ft)

deep.

The White Valley - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Incredible

dive with geological relief and white sandy bottom

that offers a remarkable observation, and a high

concentration of sharks.

THE Turtle Plate - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Situated

in Punaauia, numerous turtles swimming in their

natural environment. Observe them quietly, it is

magic!


Fish by the millions typifies diving here

MOOREA

Immerse yourself in the heart of Tahiti’s

sister island, a peaceful and protected

environment with two beautiful bays:

Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay.

Our top three:

Le Tiki - Ocean, 20m (30-70ft) This spot

located at the north-western tip of Moorea,

is known for its fast changing and rapid

current. Its particularity: it welcomes

a school of sharks that have taken up

residence here.

Vaiare - Ocean This dive site will offer

you the opportunity to observe a beautiful

diversity of species. You will encounter

rays, black tip sharks, turtles, schools of

barracuda and sometimes even up to 6

lemon sharks.

Canyons of Opunohu - Ocean, 9-21m

(30-70 ft) Dive spot for all levels. The

most experienced divers can discover

the exceptional Rose Garden. You will

encounter a great diversity of species

such as black tip sharks, lemon sharks,

turtles, school of snapper and surgeonfish.

HUAHINE

Huahine is an incredibly beautiful

diving destination and the Fitii pass is

comparable by its richness to some of the

more remote Tuamotu spots. You can find

schools of sharks, jackfish, batfish, and

barracudas, and all the usual small fauna.

Our top two:

Avapehi Pass - Pass, 3-30m (0-100ft)

Get ready to experience a unique dive full

of surprises. You will see giant trevally,

barracudas, a ballet of batfish and manta

rays as well as sometimes up to 50 grey

sharks.

Fa'a Miti - 6-27m (20-90ft) This site

is accessible for all levels. You will be

dazzled by the multitude of corals, black

tip sharks, or a napoleon followed closely

by a swarm of small fish.

RAIATEA

The island offers a great wealth of

discoveries between the passes and

their surroundings or in the open sea.

The clarity of the water is exceptional. A

wild and authentic island with the most

unique fauna and marine flora in the world

Surprisingly, Taha’a shares its lagoon with

its sister island Raiatea because they are

originally one and the same island!

Our top two:

The Nordby Wreck - Lagoon, 8-24m

(25-80ft) Day or night, dive back to the

year of 1900 to observe the wreck of this

Danish three-masted ship that sailed

from Auckland to its port in Liverpool.

Numerous nudibranchs have taken

up residence here, and at night, the

experience is unforgettable.

Teava Piti Pass - Pass, 24m (0-80ft)

Considered as one of the most beautiful

drift dives of the Leeward Islands, you will

meet a multitude of species. A must do


Magic just seems to happen underwater here in Tahiti and her islands

TAHA’A

A wild and authentic island with the most

unique fauna and marine flora in the world

an exceptional feature, Taha’a shares

its lagoon with its sister island Raiatea

because they are originally one and the

same island!

Our top two:

Paipai Pass - Drift pass, 29m (95ft) This

is a dive recommended for trained divers.

You will reach cavities with many species

of sharks, including the very shy ma’o

mamaru (white tip lagoon sharks).

Ruutia, Tau Tau, Taputapu - Ocean/

reef, 40m (130ft) A site known for the

exceptional clarity of its waters up to 40

meters. The diving offers you a beautiful

diversity

BORA BORA

The diving conditions are optimal to learn

to dive. The lagoon of Bora Bora is home

to unforgettable dives with its coral reef

and a succession of motu with wonderful

white sand beaches

Our top two:

Anau - Ocean, 5-30m (15-100ft) Today,

diving centres are organized to protect this

site known for the presence of numerous

manta rays.

Tapu - Ocean, 9-37m (30-120ft) This is the

name of the motu which means islet and is

used to locate this dive on the slope of the

only pass of Bora Bora, Teavanui. The big

lemon sharks that reside

RANGIROA

One of the most abundant marine

biodiversity in the world, recognized as

one of the best places for exceptional

underwater encounters. In The Islands of

Tahiti, Rangiroa is the place where you

will have the most chances to observe

the great hammerhead shark, between

February and April.

Our top 2

P 2 Tiputa Pass - Pass, 12-46m (40-150ft)

This dive is known to be the meeting place

of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus,

wild sedentary dolphins that live in the

Tiputa pass right above a gathering of grey

sharks.

Avatora Pass - Pass, 15-21m (50-70ft)

In this pass, you will meet the tapete,

white finned reef sharks. A little further on

you will observe a huge school of jacks,

sometimes separated into two groups by

the intrusion of a raira, grey shark or a

Napoleon Wrasse.


Fakarava and Rangiroa has some of the best shark diving in the world

FAKARAVA

Classified as a Biosphere Reserve by

UNESCO, Fakarava is a model of nature

reconciled with human development.

During the breeding season, from mid-

June to the beginning of July, you can

observe exceptionally large gatherings of

the small yet rare mottled loaches, divers

from all over the world travel here for this

rare experience.

Our top two:

Garuae Pass - Pass, 12-43m (40-140ft)

The largest in The Islands of Tahiti. The

show is always guaranteed whatever

the time of year Barracudas, loaches,

groupers, and rays live there with a

greater concentration during the full

moon.

Tetamanu Pass - Pass, 10-30m (32-

98ft) Often presented as the largest

concentration of grey sharks in the world,

the Tetamanu pass, or Tumakohua pass,

offers an unforgettable spectacle at the

end of the world.

TIKEHAU

Famous for its landscapes and the beauty

of its passes. Tikehau is considered as

the atoll with the largest concentration

of fish throughout the Tuamotu region

of Tahiti. The only pass of the island is

the gathering place for pelagic species

and promises to offer you beautiful

encounters.

Our top two:

The Tuheiva Pass - Pass, 8-23m (25-

75ft) Accessible for all levels. All the

reef fauna is represented: moray eels,

napoleon fish, barracudas and tunas are

frequent visitors. Every day, you will meet

a group of tapete (white tip lagoon shark).

Teonai - Ocean, 5-23m (15-75ft) All the

marine fauna of the Tuamotu Islands

is present in Teonai where you can

find lionfish, moray eels, napoleons,

surgeonfish, and white tip lagoon sharks.

The richest period of the year for marine

fauna is from October to December.

This is just a small selection of what

is on offer in the Islands of Tahiti. The

region is renowned for its shark diving

and whales, but it offers so much more.

Underwater marine life and fish of all

sorts are in abundance and with the many

professional dive operators, you can

experience this underwater magic setting

easily and safely.

For more information check out:

www.diving.tahititourisme.com

www.tahititourisme.nz


*

t r a v e l

VANUATU

WELKAM BACK!!!

The first flight since Vanuatu reopened its borders to

international travellers landed in Port Vila on Friday 1st July

and from New Zealand on Saturday 2nd July, with visitors

now able to travel freely throughout the country’s islands and

provinces without any quarantine. The people of Vanuatu gave

the first visitors to make the trip the warmest of welcomes.

The sold-out Air Vanuatu flight from Sydney to Port Vila on the

1st July, carried Aussie guests eager to soak up the country’s

sunshine and enjoy its beautiful island chain. Guests were

also accompanied on the voyage by a VIP delegation including

Vanuatu’s Prime Minister, the Honourable Bob Loughman

Weibur. The flight from Auckland on Saturday 2nd July was

also sold out carrying a mix of RSE workers returning home

after lengthy stays in NZ and tourists many who had rebooked

their holidays that were planned before borders closed in

March 2020.

Upon arrival in Vanuatu, guests were welcomed with a water

salute, enjoyed a meet and greet with local cultural dancers

and were surprised with goodie bags packed with Vanuatu

Made gifts.

Vanuatu’s border has remained closed since March 2020,

due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The reopening signifies the

restarting of the country’s tourism industry, which is one of its

biggest economic drivers.

“Vanuatu’s tourism industry has been busy preparing for the

reopening, taking the time to upgrade or even introduce new

products to ensure guests have the best possible experience

upon arrival. Visitors will be greeted with a Vanuatu smile and

feel welcomed from the moment they touch down.”

Moorings Hotel Vanuatu Assistant Manager, Anita Tahi said,

“We’ve had two challenging years, but the team has kept

operations open and is ready and excited to welcome back

international visitors. Vanuatu has remained beautiful without

losing its happiness and authentic welcoming smiles and

today is an exciting day for everyone in the Vanuatu tourism

industry.”

Travellers can now enter Vanuatu with just a certified negative

RAT from within 24 hours of departure, or a certificate of

infection and recovery from within 28 days of travel.

Flights are available to book now, with Air Vanuatu resuming

its services with two non-stop flights from Auckland a week.

For more information on the reopening flight schedule, please

visit www.airvanuatu.com. Travellers are encouraged to check

the Vanuatu Tourism Office website for the latest information

and health directions prior to travel, as well as for inspiration

on visiting Vanuatu –www.vanuatu.travel/nz.

A new marketing campaign showcasing the best of Vanuatu’s

tourism offering has been launched ahead of the reopening

to urge New Zealanders to visit the archipelago. The new

Welkam Back! campaign encourages Kiwis to “Answer the

Call of Vanuatu” and visit the country to experience its array of

incredible moments.

“We are so happy this day has finally come,” said Vanuatu

Tourism Office CEO, Adela Issachar Aru. “Pre-COVID, New

Zealand was Vanuatu’s second largest inbound tourism market

and we have always shared a strong bond with our Kiwi

neighbours. Vanuatu is just a short flight from Auckland, yet it

feels like a world away. It’s the perfect getaway close to home.


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