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Adventure Magazine

Issue 230, February/March 2022

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adventure

where actions speak louder than words

ISSUE 230

FEB/MAR 2022

NZ $10.90 incl. GST

welcome

20

22


Sleep in,

when you’re out.

NEW & IMPROVED SLEEPING BAG RANGE

AN ENDURING DESIGN PHILOSOPHY

– UPDATED FOR MODERN ADVENTURERS

This summer we have refreshed our sleeping bag range to introduce

new fabrics and fill, and to consolidate details like shape and fit.

We’ve also filled a few gaps to cater to a broader spectrum of users.

You’ll notice exciting additions like a lightweight range (including

the zipperless Firefly 200), as well as a better-rounded synthetic

offering. Tested out in the field by our ambassadors, we’re proud to

present a range that is stronger than ever.

UPDATED SIZES AND SHAPES

We’ve simplified sleeping bag sizes and shapes across the range so

it’s easier to find the perfect bag for your adventure. More bags in

the range come in a women’s specific fit where the insulation is redistributed

across the top to provide better warmth.

SOME OF THE NEW FEATURES INCLUDE

• Wear-and-walk footbox

• Zipperless option

RESPONSIBLE MATERIALS

Our commitment to designing better is reflected throughout the

range. Our most technical down sleeping bags feature recycled

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board we’ve added more bluesign ® certified fabrics too.

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• Climbing tie-in

From experienced mountaineers to first time campers, we’ve got the perfect sleeping bag for you.


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The first issue of 2022

equip

yourself!

2022 stretches out before us but it’s a road with a lot more turns and a few

blind corners than we are used to. Life used to be so much more straight

forward. You could plan to travel, to go to events and do activities but now

there is a shadow cast by the last two years. It’s not a case of ‘no you can’t

plan anything’, but we have all got used to the uncertainty that possibly Delta,

Omicron or a zombie apocalypse will arrive and turn those plans upside down.

But I do believe that there is value in the lack of certainty. Possibly, it makes us

all a little more spontaneous. We are hesitant to book that ski trip to Canada in

six months’ time, but we can make plans three weeks out to fly to Queenstown

or visit the smaller club fields on a whim, our focus is more short term and with

those short-term plans comes spontaneity.

It is only our generation that got used to flying to Fiji fishing for the weekend

or booking surf trips to Australia as a big swell approached. Now with those

destinations that require more planning, that are more exposed and are at risk

to the winds of change you can see people investing in that which they can

control and that’s what’s local.

Hopefully, 2022 will see the end of the covid reign and fingers crossed we can

return to a more structured, planned way of life. But if not, if that specter still

looms then we should count all our blessing and celebrate, in that we live is

such an amazing country with so much to offer.

Every issue of Adventure is full cover to cover with places to go, things to

see and activities to do. Don’t hold your breath in 2022, waiting for Covid to

vanish and our boarders to swing wide, because they might not. And if you are

uncertain about planning then invest in spontaneity. Be ready to try that new

activity, visits that new place or simply be prepared to enjoy something… just

on a whim.

Steve Dickinson - Editor

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page 12

#230

contents

Image compliments Bike it Now! Self portrait

Image by David Nogales Tarragó

page 22

page 54

12//A Land of Fire and Ice

kayaking in Iceland

22//Scree Slope from Hell

descent into Crow Valley

30//From Sea to Shining Sea

an American journey

34//Eileen Gu

finding the balance

38//Whakapapaiti Valley Track

what a difference a day makes

46//The Longest Fishing Adventure Ever

80 days straight

50//K2 in Winter

making history

54//Central Otago

cycle trails

58//Ghost Diving NZ

cleaning up Fiordland

62//Legendary Mackenzie

your 2022 adventure bucket list

86//Island Escapes

Rarotonga

Vanuatu

plus

72. gear guides

96. active adventure

FOLLOW US ON

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adventuremagazine

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz

Nzadventuremag

JOIN THE CONVERSATION

#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE

your Adventure starts with Us

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

04//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


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Nelson: PackGearGo, Kaikoura: Coastal Sports, Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sports,

Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet.

Online: huntingandfishing.co.nz, dwights.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,

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Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.net.nz


BEHIND THE COVER

Kiwi, Rod Hill’s image of kayaker River Mutton

bursting through a rapid at Huka Falls, New

Zealand, was voted the category winner by the

panel of Red Bull Illume judges amid strong

competition. It’s a magical moment for the

photographer.

“This shot was not supposed to happen. River

Mutton was supposed to leave for work but

decided on one last run. I had already packed

my gear away by the time they walked back

up from the take-out point. Once they decided

being late to work was worth it, it was a mad

rush back down the river with my camera. I

didn't have time to get to my normal spot, so

instead I tried this angle. All of a sudden, the

light popped like I had never seen before.

Straight away I knew this was going to work.”

The shot of this bursting kayaker wins the Energy by Red Bull Photography category.

© Rod Hill / Red Bull Illume

It is the first time the amateur photographer,

a chemistry teacher from Rotorua, has been

selected in Red Bull Illume. Hill has been

passionate about photography for many years

on his skiing, surfing and climbing adventures

and expeditions.

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

NEW 350M HIGH WATERFALL ADVENTURE IN WĀNAKA

ART DIRECTOR

Lynne Dickinson

design@pacificmedia.co.nz

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

DISTRIBUTION

Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000

OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz

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@adventurevanlifenz

PUBLISHERS

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:

Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand

Ph: 0275775014

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

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Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed

envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may

be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work

published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without

permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable

effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of

this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or

damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of

information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with

respect to any of the material contained herein.

Adventure Magazine

Whereever we go,

our preferred car

hire is...

Award winning Wānaka based tourism operator Wildwire is adding to their already

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There are two options for an easier or full-adrenaline adventure which will see people

harness up, don a helmet and wetsuit to make their way down fixed ropes that are set

amongst a series of waterfalls, with some up to 65metres high! Adventurers, taking

on the full canyon are also transported, in true kiwi style, to the top of the falls by

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World Class Indoor Climbing

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* Discounts for youths and own gear

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“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we

foster community, growth and positive experiences for

people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”


we ARE tramping

Adelaide Tarn

Kahurangi National Park

Photo: Mark Watson

Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best

gear, from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide

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08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


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ICELAND

*


a land of

FIRE AND

Red Bull

ICECompliments

Images David Nogales Tarragó

Aniol Serrasolses is used to putting

his whitewater kayaking skills to the

test in stunning locations such as

Costa Rica's Águas Bravas and the

Villarrica volcano in Chile, which

has appeared in Adventure last year.

However, he took it to another level

with an epic voyage of discovery

into the wild heart of Iceland.


The land of fire and ice is home to some of the most

challenging whitewater rapids and waterfalls in the world. Most

are still unknown due to the almost inaccessible nature of the

rivers. Serrasolses spent three weeks hiking the unforgiving

terrain with a kayak on his back. Together with his team, they

again pushed themselves to the limits to try and produce

something extraordinary in their dream expedition.

Serrasolses, 30, said: "For me, waterfalls have always been

the most entertaining side of kayaking. They scare me the

most, but at the same time, they provide some of the strongest

sensations I've ever felt. Being in the air, flying off a waterfall.

The adrenaline and the fear right before and overcoming all

mental obstacles to do it and do it right. It's an exciting and

gratifying process."

And the result of trying to navigate previously unexplored

rivers? A trip that required a lot of improvisation & agility to

navigate unforeseen events, with a backdrop of spectacular

scenery and images that will travel around the world.

Sarasola, 34, said: "It's in nature and in the rivers where we

are ourselves and feel fulfilled. I cannot think of a better place

than Iceland to start over again after such a difficult year."

Spaniard Serrasolses made a global name for himself with

his previous dangerous projects down perilous flooded rivers

in Portugal back in 2018 and over a 25-kilometre descent

in Chile. His Chile project earlier in 202, which has already

appeared in Adventure Magazine, saw him perform a unique

kayak descent over snow-capped volcanoes, finishing up in

the river with a double kickflip, a manoeuvre never achieved

in this sport, and that would secure him the Top Male Rider

Award at the White Water Awards 2021.

Previous page: Aniol Serrassolses paddling in the Jokulsarlon

Glacier, Iceland on June 2021

Above: Aniol Serrassolses, Mikel Sarasola and Aleix Salvat carrying

their kayaks in Fellsa river, Iceland

Top Right: Aniol droping a waterfall for the Jotunn project in

Kaldakvisl river, Iceland

Bottom Right: Aniol carrying his kayak in Aldeyjarfoss, Iceland,

waterfall in background his destination, see him take the drop on the

following page

Following page: Aniol takes the drop in Aldeyjarfoss, Iceland

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15


16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17


David Nogales Tarragó, the photographer on this trip...

“Aniol talked to me and proposed that I join his project

in Iceland with Mikel and Aleix. I haven't shot any river

sports before and didn't really know about them apart

from social media, but I've always been passionate

about the plasticity of kayaking and I think there's no

better way to get introduced to the whitewater than a

Red Bull project that was focused on the exploration

of new rivers and running waterfalls in Iceland, so I

accepted without hesitation. We struggled finding the

right river flows during the first days and scouted many

places without any success. We travelled all around

the island, the team knew some famous runnable

spots but the main purpose of the project was to find

first descents, we headed to the famous Studlagil

canyon to visit the place and realised one nearby

tributary river had some potential for whitewater

kayaking. We spent the night close to the spot and

the next day hiked for several hours up the put in of

the river. The run worked pretty well and there was

this waterfall at the end after a really close seal launch

move (sliding from the rock) that gave no time to react.

On spots of this kind it is a one chance shot, because

it is definitely too aggressive to repeat it many times,

so you have to make sure you don't miss the shot.

While Aniol was getting ready I already had the shot

on my mind and started testing settings and frames so

there's no place for mistakes once he's dropping.”

Right: Aniol Serrassolses droping a waterfall in Studlahil,

Iceland

Following page: Aniol Serrasolses on a sequence of 3

consecutive waterfalls in the Keldus river in Iceland

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//19


ARTHURS PASS

*

Descent into Crow Valley

SCREE SLOPE

FROM HELL

By Eric Skilling

22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


We knew the first leg of the overnight trip to Crow Hut in Arthurs Pass National Park

was going to be a challenging day. We mistakenly believed the 1.1km climb to the top

of Avalanche Peak (1833m) would be the pinnacle of the day. How wrong we were. The

700-metre descent off the ridges approaching Mt Rolleston and down the scree slope to

Crow Valley will go down as one of the most demoralising, exhausting and gut-busting

tramping experiences I have endured in a long, long time.

Even though it was January with its long daylight hours, we had agreed to an early start.

So, the shadows were long as the team stepped into the shady mountain beech forest with

just a hint of a cool morning breeze. Morale was high. There was even banter. Absolutely

no hint of the battered and bruised bodies that would collapse next to the Crow River some

8-hours later.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23


Scott’s track up to Avalanche Peak is a steep and rocky but

easily accessible path from Arthurs Pass village. Rising the

1.1km over 2.5km, this is no walk in the park especially with an

overnight pack on your back. But it also offers plenty to enjoy as

you try to keep your heart rate in check.

Within the first half-hour you get to take in priceless views

eastwards to the Temple Basin ski field and the ice-splattered

summits of Stuart, Phipps and Blimit, all over 1900m. Behind

us Arthurs Pass village became more and more like a miniature

kitset as we climbed. Kea were calling across to each other

as they searched for breakfast amongst the trees and shrubs.

The sound of water cascading down the 130 metre Devils

Punchbowl waterfall across the valley ebbed and flowed for the

first hour or so, muted by the trees, the distance and the breeze.

At 1300 metres we emerged out of the bush-line and onto a

tussock covered ridge littered with flowering Mount Cook Lily,

daisies and other alpine plants, and wide vistas from Otira to

Waimakariri. The dark jagged rocks of Mt Rolleston (2275m)

began to dominate the horizon to the north-west.

There are plenty of false tops to clamber over before the path

became massive ice-shattered greywacke boulders, and later

became the crumbly, black argillite which covers the summit.

Despite the warnings about the steep drop-offs along the path

even the most cautious in our party conquered these with ease,

although I admit they could cause some issues in high winds

and rain. It had taken us less than four hours to conquer the

peak and in perfect time and perfect place to enjoy some wellearned

lunch as well as the reward of some 6-star scenery.

Southwards and way below the Crow River courses its way

down a steep, well forested valley scarred with rockslides.

Further south we got a glimpse of the Waimakariri with its

spectacularly flat and wide steep-sided glacial valley. To the

north and east are full views of the Arthurs Pass peaks, Otira

Gorge and the very thin, fragile looking strip of State Highway

73 making its precarious way to Greymouth and the West

Coast.

Northwest, the skyline is dominated by the jagged, black rock

of Mt Rolleston rising another 450 metres above us, it’s lower

faces softened by the bright white of the Crow and Rolleston

glaciers. Fine silver ribbons marked streams of ice-melt

plummeting off the bluffs, making their way to become the Crow

River. We had no idea how much we would get to enjoy gulping

down those icy-cold ancient waters later that afternoon when we

eventually reached the Crow River.

Our leaders had given us plenty of advice about choosing the

right scree slope to descend. We were given dire warnings of

deadly bluffs and the risk of serious and sometimes fatal injuries

for those who get it wrong. Fortunately, we had great visibility,

light winds and plenty of time. There was also still a bit of that

buzz in the group after reaching the summit.

Spirits were high as we scrambled down a small scree slope to

the south of the peak, just as the day began to warm up. From

here the trail followed the ridge NNW towards Mt Rolleston. A

shout-out is due to those people who gathered all those rocks

and made up the arrows pointing along the ridge – reassuring

us we were not lost. On our left and several hundred metres

below, we noticed the tiny red roof of Crow Hut sitting in a

clearing alongside the river. I remember thinking the site looked

like an ideal spot for pitching a tent later that evening.

After what seemed like an age, we had covered the 1.5km from

Avalanche Peak and were staring down the 700-metre scree

slope, with no idea that it was to become our temporary little

Previous Page: Our party of 7 on Avalanche Peak, Mt Rolleston in the backgound.

Above: Reaching for the top as the day started to warm up.

Right: Emerging from the treeline on Scotts Track with Otira gorge in the distance.

24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


hell for the next hour-and-quite-a-bit.

We ticked off all the pointers to mark the

beginning of the descent: the scree slope

slid all the way to the valley floor, the full

Devils Punchbowl falls visible behind us

and a steep ridge to Mt Rolleston on our

right, and we were at 1658m- Tick.

For some reason we all seemed reluctant

to start. Perhaps some primeval instinct

was warning us against this venture. It

just didn’t look that easy. With technique

fresh in my mind – pole out, lean slightly

forward, and dig the heels in, I stepped off

onto the loose fist-sized rocks.

Within seconds I was losing control. This

was no scoria mound of Mt Ngauruhoe

or the slightly more difficult Mt Taranaki,

where one step can send you over a

metre down the slope. Instead of the

rounded stones of the volcanoes, these

were ice-shattered rocks ranging in size

from dust to boulders over a metre long,

all with flat faces and sharp edges. Most

of the rocks on the surface were fist sized

but hidden underneath the surface were

larger flat rocks which acted like loose

platforms for the smaller rocks to slide

randomly, leaving you to guess how far

each step would take you.

Every step was a series of uncontrolled,

unpredictable slides and recoveries.

Behind me I could hear others following

tentatively, so I felt the need to keep

going. Within a few minutes our energetic

leader slipped, staggered and skidded

past me, clearly with very little respect

for his well-being. Half an hour later, after

uncountable near falls and recoveries,

I had to stop. I was exhausted. My abs

and shoulders ached from the tension of

endless, continuous bracing, waiting for

a slip to become a fall onto those jagged

rocks. My mouth and eyes were full of fine

dust and the temperature seemed to have

risen another 10 degrees as the overhead

sun beat down on us, radiating heat off

the scree slope and onto sun-burnt faces.

Swivelling around, I had the crushing

realisation that the top was still a lot

closer than the valley floor. I slumped


down, pulled out my water bottle and

emptied what little was left. I gave

myself a little pep talk and stood up,

slid sideways, toppled forward onto

the rocks, rolled over on my pack,

back onto my chest and slid another

few feet down the slope. I lay there

for a few seconds. Bit of pain in my

forearm and shin, otherwise intact.

Phew! I dragged away the rocks that

had slid over my walking pole and

hoped some witness had at least

enjoyed a laugh.

An hour-and-a-half later, seven

sweaty, sunburnt, stiff and sore

trampers were sitting next to the

Crow River, having guzzled serious

quantities of icy-cold water from the

glacial stream. One broken walking

pole but otherwise all largely intact.

Amazing.

After making our way, jelly-legs and

all, over more but larger boulders

along the valley floor, we filed into the

hut. Pitching a tent was as likely as

finding a working espresso machine

and a barista waiting in the dunny. It

had taken us nearly 9 hours to cover

less than 13km. And the effort was

clear to see.

Then came the next challenge –

trying to stay awake long enough for

the light to fade. We lost that battle.

After finishing one of the tastiest

Backcountry Venison Risotto’s ever

made, I made short work of the Apple

Pie I keep in reserve, but even a

coffee couldn’t keep me awake. But

hey, this is the Southern Alps, the

summer solstice was a few weeks

past, and the sun does set a little later

in the day here…. doesn’t it?

Next day we made our way to

Klondyke corner, negotiating the

various braids of the Waimakariri

more times than we intended but

arrived back in Arthurs Pass feeling

like we had done good – challenged

ourselves, and enjoyed another

memorable experience in the

company of good people.

Previous Page: Heads down, poles out as we negotiated

the dreaded scree slope to the Crow Valley (Photo: Colin).

Top: We had the very comfortable Crow Hut to ourselves that

evening.

Inserts: Crossing the clear waters of the Crow river on day 2.

A tranquil lunch stop next to the Waimakariri on our way out

(Photo:Ilva)

Bealey is the ideal location to enjoy easy access to all the natural attractions of the Arthur’s Pass National Park, with its flora and fauna, mountain tramps and walks, and the

recreational pursuits of the high country including skiing, snow boarding, biking, fishing and boating. All these outdoor activities can be enjoyed without sacrificing the comforts

and luxuries of accommodation, food and hospitality by staying at the 4-star Bealey Hotel.

a: 12858 West Coast Road, (SH73) | e: stay@thebealeyhotel.com | p: +64 3 318 9277 | www.thebealeyhotel.com


The Old Nurses Home

Guesthouse

Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse

This historic renovated building, has large picturesque and peaceful grounds with off-street parking, centrally

heated accommodation with single/twin/double/queen rooms (bed linen, duvets and towels supplied). One bedroom

apartments are also available with a minimum 2 night stay. There is a large communal kitchen with a dining and

lounge area, a conference room and four large shared bathrooms. Free wireless Wi-Fi and complimentary tea and

coffee is available.

Situated within the town of Reefton and with easy walking access to the town centre, we offer a wonderfully quiet

place to stay. Enjoy the stunning Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic mining

sites, walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or

kayak the exciting rivers in the area. Explore the myriad of challenging 4WD tracks in the hills. For mountain bikers

there are a number of bike tracks located in the Reefton area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore

The Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.

We are located just 40 minutes from the Lyell where we offer undercover, secure storage for your bikes and bike

servicing is available in the town. Reefton offers visitors many activities, if you are seeking a relaxing weekend

or perhaps a true West Coast adventure The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse is the perfect place to stay in Reefton.

Approximate travelling times: Christchurch 3 hours, Hanmer Springs 1.5 hours, Nelson 2.45 hours, Westport 1 hour,

Karamea 2.5 hours, Greymouth 1 hour, Franz Josef 3.5 hours, Picton 4 hours, Lyell 40 mins.

www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz

+6437328881

info@reeftonaccommodation.co.nz


USA

* *

FROM SEA TO

SHINING SEA

an American journey

His name is Neal Moore. He is a storyteller and a paddler, and an adventurer. He undertook a

remarkable journey of over 7,500 river and portage miles (that’s 12070.08 km) from the Columbia

River in Oregon on the West Coast of America, all the way to New York City on the East Coast.

To give it an antipodean comparison that is like paddling across the width of Australia three times,

back to back!

It took 2 years, traversing 22 rivers and waterways, touching 22 states and stopping off in over

100 towns. We caught up Neal, - and asked the interesting hard questions about his epic

adventure! This is his story!

When did this idea come to mind

– what started you out on this

journey? I got the idea to connect

rivers during my 2009 descent of the

Mississippi River. The person who

introduced me to the concept was

the great paddler Dick Conant. We

paddled on and off together – he

was connecting rivers from near the

headwaters of the Mississippi all

the way to Norfolk, Virginia. In the

years afterwards, I based overseas

in Africa and East Asia, I unfurled

the map across the table and in my

mind, coming up with my own point A

and point B – with the exciting idea to

travel from coast to coast, from sea to

shining sea.

Was the trip continuous or was

there breaks between rivers? The

journey was continuous, following the

seasons. I spent different amounts

of time in various towns and cities.

Sometimes it’d be an afternoon

and sometimes a couple of days.

In Demopolis, Alabama, along the

Tombigbee, I spent an entire month,

waiting out two sets of twisters and

severe flooding to push through.

If you could state one objective

of the trip what would it be? The

number one priority, or goal, was

to explore connections between a

nation often divided by race, class,

and political stripe. Unfiltered,

unadulterated, raw and exposed

and real. But then, to paddle into the

pandemic was a surprise.

I read that you had spent a lot of

your life outside of America – was

that motivation to see so much

of the country by canoe? After the

better part of a lifetime abroad, where

one explores the idea of that perfect

destination with fellow travelers from

all over the show, the epiphany hit

me hard and strong. What if the

greatest adventure of my life was in

my own backyard? To explore my

home country slow and low down and

personal from the view of a canoe.

What type of Canoe?

Old Town Penobscot 16 foot Royalex

(16RX)

.

How much of the timing of the trip

was based around the weather I

guess you needed to be aware of

freezing cold and hurricanes? Yes,

the route was designed to follow the

seasons and to miss the hurricane

season in the gulf.

I read there was almost a tornado

issue – can you tell us more about

that? There was quite a bit of severe

weather. Coming down the Missouri

near Bismarck, North Dakota, I took

cover as a severe storm blew over. It

downed half the cottonwood trees in

the park where I’d made camp and

took the roof off a nearby farmhouse.

Above left: Neal Moore in his canoe

Above right: The highlight of the trip was seeing the beacon hand of the Statue of Liberty in NY Harbour

Right: Laden for a two year adventure

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31


Later, along the Missouri, I found

myself on the periphery two derechos

(Derechos are fast-moving bands of

thunderstorms with destructive winds)

as they blew their way past. But they

passed to either side and I was safe. The

following year two sets of twisters blew

their way through several states. I was

with a family in downtown Demopolis

at the time who had a “safe room”

in their home for such occasions, so

we were safe. With such storms you

get severe flooding, so I had to hold

up here for an entire month to wait

for the flood waters to recede, twice.

Later along the Kentucky River, I got a

flash flood warning on my phone just

before last light, followed by a severe

thunderstorm warning. I slipped and

slid and scrambled myself up a muddy

embankment, with all the expedition gear

and canoe up the hill as high as I could

get. I slept like a baby through the storm

and come the morning, when I zipped

open the front flaps of the tent, the water

was right there. It had risen at least 10

feet overnight and I had been lucky not

to have been washed away.

How much was up stream and how

much downstream? 7,500 miles total.

Upstream: 2700 miles; Downstream:

3963 miles; Portage: 410 miles; Flat

(lakes and gulf) 666 miles. A note,

the majority of “downstream” was the

Missouri River (2,196 miles), the majority

of which is dammed up, and thus with

the wind against you a whole lot, a real

challenge.

Seeing the trip seemed to coincide

with the Covid Pandemic did it play

a major role? The Covid-19 virus

really hit about a month and a half into

my journey, those early days ravaging

both states I was travelling between,

Washington and Oregon. That we all

finally understood that the pandemic

was on in a very real way. And I stopped,

and I reached out to trusted friends

– journalists and an ex-Army Special

Forces friend, who teaches the Army

to this day survival and how to dive in

the “wacky tides” of the Columbia River

Bar. I got in touch with them and asked

point blank what they thought, and the

overwhelming answer reverberated

in one chord – “You are in the safest

possible place. And you absolutely have

to keep going.”

The flip side to that decision was that

there was nowhere else to shelter in

place. Americans were no longer able to

travel back to Taiwan, Americans were

not able to travel to South Africa, both

places in the world where I also hang up

my hat and call home. So, in essence,

the journey itself -- the canoe and my

tent and all of my gear -- the expedition

itself became my home. And sheltering in

place meant continuing the journey.

Did you see a lot of wildlife – were

there any dangerous encounters?

There was a Grizzly bear near the top

of the Continental Divide, who passed

50 feet in front of me as I made my way

down the mountain towards Helena,

Montana. I was fall harnessed and

attached to my canoe with a big shipping

rope and by the time I got my snow

gloves off and my camera out of my

pocket, it was gone. Which made me

realize had it come for me, I wouldn’t

have had time to reach for the buck knife

or bear spray attached to my belt.

In Lake Pontchartrain at Bayou

Lacombe, a giant gator made its way

out of the water and towards my tent at

2:30 in the morning. I woke with a start,

clapped my hands in a half sleep and

it didn’t stop. So, I grabbed my diving

light (which is super bright) and shone it

out the front of the tent, and it stopped,

turned around, and walked back into

the bayou. Later, on a night paddle from

Deer Island near Biloxi, Miss. on the

Mississippi Gulf Coast to Horn Island, a

good 10 mile stretch across open water,

a bull shark repeatedly rammed the

canoe (three times) at last light. I knew

what it was, but I still had another 7 or

so miles to paddle into the dark gulf, so I

blocked what had happened out, a mind

over matter positive affirmation of sorts.

The shark didn’t come back for me,

and at twelve midnight, my open canoe

pushed up onto the sands at Horn Island

and I was safe.

What was the best part of the trip?

Seeing the beacon hand of the Statue

of Liberty in NY Harbor, and the entire

journey coming back to me in rapid-fire

flashes, the illumination of that flame

shining in every single face that I could

conjure. The least of us, the best of us,

the flame of liberty alive and well and

burning ever so bright.

Your home is in Taipei? I’ve spun the

continents between Cape Town and

Taipei for the past thirty years. I paid my

PO Box forward for three years before

embarking on this second attempt at the

cross-America journey so I like to say the

closest thing to a residence for me is that

PO Box. With the pandemic still on and

Taiwan closed down, I plan to hang my

hats in America for the near future.

What do you do there? I have taught

English in Taiwan and reported as a

freelance journalist.

Is there anyone you would like

to publicly thank? We talk about

supported vs unsupported adventures,

and I can say that I’ve been supported.

By smiles and waves and warm meals

and showers and well wishes. From

folks across America from all walks of

life, by friends out in the great big world

who have cheered the expedition on

from afar. I have travelled solo but I have

never been alone. And for that, I’ve got

to say cheers to one and all.

Above left to righ: Receiving a warm welcome / The 22 rivers from sea to sea / The interesting locals you meet on the way

Right: Departure from Esopus Island, the Hudson River. Photo courtesy Ranger Kevin Oldenburg (National Park Service)

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33


EILEEN GU

finding the balance

Eileen Gu's ascent to become a winter-sports star

has been nothing short of remarkable the last two

years. In 2021, Gu burst onto the international

senior winter sports scene as a 17-year-old and

ripped up the record books with a rapid series of

breath-taking displays that stunned the freeskiing

world.

After winning two gold medals and a silver medal

at the 2020 Winter Youth Olympics, Gu claimed

two golds and a bronze at the 2021 Winter

X Games then the same again at the World

Championships with her unique talent seeing her

excel in big air, halfpipe and slopestyle.

But just who is the 18-year-old piano playing,

horse-back riding, Stanford University attending,

professional model who just happens to have a

supernatural gift on two skis?

Gu's 2021 season, which will go down in history

as she also won two gold medals and one bronze

medal at the World Championships despite

fracturing a finger and tearing a thumb UCL,

forcing her to ski without poles for the first time.

Eileen became the first rookie to win three Winter

X Games medals in between, while she also

became the first woman to land a forward double

cork 1440.

The talented teenager could have chosen any

number of career paths but chose skiing having

started aged three.

She openly admits she lives four different lives

where no second of any day is wasted, however

“being a teenager and doing teenager things” is

still very much part of the agenda with a joyous

moment shared when she is accepted into the

prestigious Stanford University as a legacy

applicant.

One of her many passions and interests away

from the snow is modelling with a recent Met Gala

appearance and first Vogue cover coming on the

back of her being named the new face of lingerie

brand Victoria's Secret.

She adds, "Both have a lot of creative expression,

take me out of my comfort zone and require a lot

of self-confidence."

Discover more in the Beyond the Ordinary

podcast episode: Eileen Gu and Bobby Brown: a

conversation between two freeski stars.

Top: Eileen and her first Vogue cover

Right: Showing her remarkable style

Following Page: Eileen Gu skiing at Mammoth Mountain, Mammoth Lakes, CA.

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TONGARIRO

NATIONAL

PARK

*

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


WHAKAPAPAITI

VALLEY TRACK

What a difference a day makes...

Words and images by Lynne Dickinson and Vicki Knell

“Unbridged river crossing - it may not be

possible to cross safely when the river is

high following or during rainfall.”

The forecast was for clearing weather;

however, it had been raining fairly steadily

for the past few days and as we drove to

Whakapapa Village the air was still heavy

with moisture. There are two ways into

Whakapapaiti Hut, either via Whakapapaiti

Valley, which was the route we had

planned, but also the one that required

the said river crossing, or from 5km up the

Bruce Road from Whakapapa Village.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//39


After chatting with the staff at the info centre at

Whapakapapa Village we decided not to risk an

unnecessary turn around if the river was indeed

too high, and instead parked at the village and

walked into the hut via the Bruce Road. We have

been coming to Whakapapa to ski since we were

in our teens, yet this is the first time we had both

walked up the Bruce Road. It was one of those

misty, cold, wet days where you couldn’t see the

mountain, actually you couldn’t see very far ahead

of you in any direction.

From the start of the track just past scoria flat it

was another 3km or so to the hut and by then

the rain had stopped and the mist was lifting

somewhat. Coming into the track from the upper

access wasn’t what we had planned but we

happily traversed across the undulating rocky

terrain before climbing to the highest point on the

trail. As we reached the crest, we were literally

stopped dead in our tracks by the view that

opened in front of us. Waterfalls cascaded down

sheer cliffs from the slopes of Ruapehu into the

Whakapapaiti Valley below. It was an incredible

sight. We sat in awe of what was less than an

hour’s walk from the place we had been visiting

for over 40 years.

From the crest of the trail it was another half an

hour or so down a steep slope via a succession

of switchbacks to the turnoff to the Whakapapaiti

Valley Track and another half hour to the hut. As

we dropped in elevation, the terrain changed from

bare rocks to mountain beech trees that had taken

hold alongside the tributaries of the Whakapapaiti

Stream.

It was here that the hut was located, an 18-bunk

spacious serviced hut with a great fire and an

even greater deck with views up towards Mt

Ruapehu and the cascading waterfalls. After a

relaxing lunch we headed down to check out the

river, and were glad that we had chosen the upper

access as we were unable to find a safe crossing.

Hiking in early November, we encountered

only one person on the trail and had the hut to

ourselves. There was a certain freedom to having

the valley all to ourselves, including a skinny dip

in one of the waterfalls only minutes from the hut,

secure in the fact that we wouldn’t see another

person for a while yet. So, you can imagine our

surprise when we woke around 5.30am to the

sound of voices. Peeking out the hut door we

saw two guys running past the hut, stopping for a

quick stretch before taking off again. They were

running the Round the Mountain Track, being

picked up later in the day by their dutiful partners.

Although impressed with this level of fitness and

commitment, we could not help but wonder what

they missed along the way by running the whole

thing in one day, however, each to their own.

Previous page: One of the good things about hiking in the rain was the abundant waterfalls

Above: Looking out from the crest of the hill not far from Scoria Flat

Top Left: Whakapapaiti Hut / Top Right: The start of the Whakapapaiti Track above Scoria Flat


Top: What a differnece a day makes

Second row left to right:

Always heed the warnings when it

comes to river crossings

Our delicious dinner, Backcountry

Cuisine, Roast Chicken

The faces say it all, stoked that the sun

has come out and the river level had

dropped so we were able to cross the

river and hike out down the valley

Left: The impressive Whakapapaiti

Valley

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41


Although it had continued to rain overnight by morning

the weather had cleared and blue skies surrounded

us, highlighting the fresh dusting of snow that had

fallen overnight. The day before we had made a

mark on one of the rocks in the stream close to the

hut so we would be able to see if the water levels

had changed overnight. We were encouraged to

see a drop on the rock so continued on towards the

Whakapapaiti River. Prepared to turn around if we

had to, we were pleased to see the river had dropped

enough for a safe crossing enabling us to return to our

car via the Whakapapaiti Valley Track.

The Whakapapaiti Valley really is simply spectacular.

The only downside of walking it in reverse is that

we had to keep looking over our shoulder to take in

the view behind us. The day before we had walked

mainly through the volcanic rock we associate with Mt

Ruapehu, but today the terrain changed regularly. Due

to the heavy rain the previous days there were plenty

of puddles on the marshy tussock of the valley floor.

The track eventually left the tussock section of the

valley and we headed into a lush beech forest where

we crossed numerous bridges and streams as we

made our way down the mountain. The variety of

terrain was a highlight; with boardwalks, dirt tracks,

river crossing and mountain forests.

As we drew closer to Whakapapa Village the track

split in two offering the option of heading back via

Silica Rapids or keeping to the trail. We chose to

leave Silica Rapids and continued down the trail back

to Whakapapaiti Village, determined to return another

day.

Whakapapaiti Valley Track can be walked as a circuit

in one day, although with so much to see and explore I

would thoroughly recommend staying a night or two in

the hut. It is an excellent tramp to take children into as

the walk times give plenty of time for an afternoon of

exploration of the streams and waterfalls near the hut.

Editors Picks:

The Jetboil Stash Cooking System, makes heating water and cooking your meals quick and its

stashes down into a compact carry bag which is super lightweight. www.jetboil.co.nz

Backcountry Cuisine meals, this hike we ate Roast Chicken for dinner and Apple and Berry Crumble

for breakfast, both were delicious. www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Macpac Dragonfly 400 sleeping bag, lightweight but super warm, great for the cold and snowy night.

www.macpac.co.nz

Above: Views behind us of Mt Ruapehu make walking the track simply spectacular


Featuring all-new, patented FormKnit technology, the AirZone

Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and

ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or

picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep

your cool.

www.rab.equipment

Available now from Lowe Alpine specialist stores throughout NZ.

Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors,

BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,

Nelson: PackGearGo Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sportsworld,

Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet, Invercargill: Southern Adventure

Online: dwights.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, equipoutdoors.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, completeoutdoors.co.nz,

huntingandfishing.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,trekntravel.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz

Distributed by: Outfitters 0800 021732

www.outfitters.net.nz


MOUNT

RUAPEHU

*

Reigning in

RUAPEHU

To live like kings and queens

is an expression we don’t

often live by. But what if we

did? For just a moment in

time, in this season of life, we

treat ourselves to something

extraordinary, something

phenomenal, without any

special occasion as an excuse.

Sky Waka Gondola

Rhine of the Pacific

But instead, simply fill our cups with moments that matter. Because

if there’s anything we’ve learned in recent years, it is that travel,

adventure, and freedom are all privileges we can’t take for granted.

In the wide-open spaces of Ruapehu, between mountains, rivers,

and otherworldly landscapes straight out of Hollywood movies,

there’s a mix of not so ordinary experiences for the bold and the

brave to go forth and conquer.

Luxury time travel with a modern twist on the Rhine of the

Pacific

Travel back in time with Forgotten World Adventures on a Rhine

of the Pacific Tour – four days of adventure and exploration

through the heart of the Whanganui River – New Zealand’s longest

navigable waterway. Journey by river-boat cruise or overland and

watch the history and magnificence of the river come to life as you

venture off the beaten path to hidden gems, heritage sites and

fantastic accommodation options to indulge in.

Escape to Retaruke Country Estate

Embark on a remarkable country lodge experience at Retaruke

Country Estate – an all-inclusive destination that includes made

to order meals, unique accommodation, and a wealth of activities

at your doorstep. Set amidst 4,000 acres of farmland, bush, and

streams just 8 kilometres west of National Park Village, Retaruke

Country Estate offers mountain biking, horse riding, off-road

adventures in an SxS, farm tours, fishing, clay bird shooting, walks,

and to top it all off, a lavish soak in an outdoor hot tub filled with

fresh spring water. Everything you could ever wish for in the most

beautiful setting - the perfect place to bliss out but also hard to

leave.

Scenic helicopter tour with Blazing Adventures

Fasten your seatbelts and take your reign to the skies with a scenic

helicopter tour with Blazing Adventures. Revel in awe-inspiring,

breath-taking aerial views of Ruapehu’s wonderland like you have

never seen before. Soar above the Whanganui River, take in the

panoramas of historic farmsteads, deep canyons, and ancient bush

44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Horse Trekking at Blue Duck Station”

with magnificent mountains in all their glory. Tailor-made packages

can be customised to include jetboating, as well as visiting several

off-the-grid destinations that offer unique experiences.

Multi-day horse safari at Blue Duck Station

Traverse the dramatic landscapes of Whanganui National Park by

horseback and see the world from a different perspective – where

there’s nothing between you and our greater outdoors. Navigate

virgin rainforest and untouched trails on a multi-day horse trek at

Blue Duck Station that includes your own personal guide, and all

the creature comforts you could possibly want. This incredible, fully

catered experience includes awesome accommodation, luggage

transfers, gourmet meals, a jet boat tour on the Whanganui River as

well as an upgraded package option that combines the one-of-a-kind

Chef’s Table experience.

Take on New Zealand’s longest, most advanced gondola ride at

Sky Waka

Journey into the clouds on the Sky Waka gondola ride and let

your senses soar to new heights. As New Zealand’s longest, most

advanced gondola ride, the Sky Waka is a 1.8 km incredible journey

above the UNESCO Dual World Heritage Site of Tongariro National

Park starting from Whakapapa on Mt Ruapehu. Arrive at the awardwinning

Knoll Ridge Chalet and feast on a lavish lunch buffet with

stunning floor-to-ceiling views overlooking the Pinnacles and the

valley below.

The peak of fine dining at The Chef’s Table

More than just a dinner party, dining at The Chef’s Table at Blue

Duck Station is a once in a lifetime experience that delivers top of

the world dining surrounded by the majestic peaks of Ruapehu,

Ngāuruhoe and Taranaki. A remote, refined, conservation focused

restaurant that tantalises taste buds with a 3-4 hour long tasting

menu - consisting of 11 dishes farmed and foraged from produce

and ingredients found on the station. With three luxury cabins

adjacent to the restaurant, you can experience the renowned ATV

Bush Safari Dinner as well as the bed and breakfast combo and truly

embrace the good life.

Wonders will never cease for

true explorers...

Find your next adventure at

www.visitruapehu.com

Retaruke Country Estate

Chef's Table at Blue Duck Station


The longest

FISHING

ADVENTURE ever

Now that winter had passed and the darker waters were once again like gin, I could see him

darting out from the under the hanging tree eating whatever it is the trout were eating that day. I

had a feeling he knew I was there. The sun was bright, and it was hard to keep your shadow off

the water. With the water this clear you need to be cunning. But I had fished this spot so many

times, over and over, but this big old boy was too clever for me. Today, I knew would be my last

chance. I cast the tiny hook up stream of him and watched as the fly approached. I had drifted

over this fish dozens of times. Suddenly and unexpectedly the water erupted. Determined not to

lose this big guy I chased him down stream as he headed off like a train for faster, safer water.

But slowly I wore him down and edged him towards the riverbank. I unclipped my net and moved

him carefully towards me. On sighting the net, he did one big back flip, and the line broke just

above the fly.

I could see the beaded fly, like a gangster lip piercing on the top of his lip. He sat a few feet away

from me in the clear water, getting his breath back. I looked at him, he looked at me and with a

‘f&@k you’ attitude he very slowly swam off. I sat on the bank, watched the river, resigned myself

to the loss, and then walked the 600m home and that was the end of day eighty!


Covid changed the face of a lot of activities, instead of being

able to trek across the world or even New Zealand you had

to stay in one place. But sometimes, you are just lucky.

In July 2021 we decided that we would ski the whole season

as often as we could and moved family and business to

Turangi under the shadow of the mighty maunga and on the

banks of the Tongariro. We have owned a property in Turangi

for years and although the river has changed a few times

over the years with different flooding patterns, our house has

always been about 600m from the bank.

It was here I was taught to fly fish by the late John

Sommerville, who sadly passed away while I was in the

middle of writing this article. He not only taught me how to

fish, he showed me how to love it and it has been a passion

ever since.

When we arrived in July, I didn’t fish every day but did a

few times a week. Then lockdown came and at first you

were not allowed to fish. What was truly amazing was how

the river soon flourished with life; the trout were shallow

and there were a lot of them, even my dog started to try

and catch them. But absence makes the heart grow fonder

and not being able to fish fuelled into a passion. I heard a

rumour that you could fish in the river at level 4, but I wasn’t

sure, so I asked a local police officer who was checking on

the riverbank if it was ok or not? His reply in typical Turangi

fashion was, “you can fish but don’t be a dick and wade too

deep.” With the official nod of approval I was back into it.

Eighty days back to back without missing one, might be

some sort of a record. Some days were more fun that others,

I caught fish in a deluging raging storm and caught nothing

on windless perfect days.

As a rough calculation I have used over 150m of line; 10lbs,

8lbs, 6lbs and 4lbs. It is hard to calculate the number of lost

flies, but it must be in the region 100, particularly when I first

started, some local trees that are hard to get to over deepwater

pools look like Christmas trees (not just with my flies).

I broke two rods; one I slipped on the bank and snapped it at

the handle, the other broke on a large fish (I think a previous

cast that had hit the rod had caused a crack). I have been

through 5 pairs of thermal socks and bought three types of

waders to cope with the changing season.

How many fish? On average I lost about 5 fish per day so

that’s a loss of about 400 fish! Some days you land one,

some you land 10. I never kept a record, but I wish I had. I

didn’t always bring them home, but I would bring one home

from time to time. That is still a lot of trout to eat; fried, baked,

smoked, grilled, pate, Thai, Chinese, even raw. With noodles,

with vegetables, with rice or just on its own. I even tried to

cook the roe once, it looked great but I could not get that to

work, but I am open to suggestions.

In the central plateau you really see the change in seasons;

the paths you freely walked in winter, in summer are choked

with rapid growing everything; trees and shrubs go from

black bare branches to buds, to blossoms, to leaves. One

winters morning it was so cold, minus 8 and my fingers

were so frozen I could not tie on a fly and my rod eyes were

freezing over, and in summer it is so hot you have to stop

and climb out of all your gear to rest and cool down.

There is a real sense of a fishing community here, you meet

the same people on the river, everyone has time to stop

and chat, you find yourself happily helping novices because

others helped you and after eighty days you really don’t care

if you don’t fish every moment. But you do get to know every

nook, cranny, and ripple. Once, I arrived to see a guy and

his wife stand on a bank a quarter away across the river.

Fishing in a fast rapid. They saw me coming and waved. I

asked how the fishing was going they said terrible that they

had been there for an hour and nothing. So I told them there

are fish in the rapid, ‘there’ and pointed to a shallow ripple,

behind them is where I knew fish had been laying day after

day, (I had stopped fishing that spot as it as it was a bit like

shooting fish in a barrel). I could tell they didn’t believe me,

so I encouraged them to give it a try. One cast, one fish.

They were amazed and thrilled, it made my day.

Living in Turangi there are a lot of trout guides, in our street

alone there are four or five. As long as you have time to

spare, they are happy to pass over their years of expertise

because you are part of the community.

Eighty days fishing seems like a lot, and I guess it is,

when you look back through your phone images it’s been

a great way to spend the winter, it becomes almost a type

of meditation, the action, the calm, the sound of the river,

and as the world was pretty much in turmoil it was a great

escape. It really is not about catching the fish, it’s about the

experience.

Lastly, I have to give a shout out to the local fishing store

in Turangi, Sporting Life; Andrew, Jessie, and the team

have been great. Always helpful with real advice and their

knowledge of the area is complete (this is not a paid advert).

A good local store can take so much of the guess work out of

a region.

As we still try to come to terms with what has happened in

the world, it’s good to know that there can be a silver lining

and mine has been the opportunity to become extremely

intermate with a stretch of water that in normal circumstance

would have been a one night stand.

48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49


KARAKORAM

*

Making history

K2 IN WINTER

Nepalese climber Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE made history on January 16, 2021, at 5pm local

time when the former Gurkha and UK Special Forces operative and his team became the first

mountaineers to ever summit K2 in winter.

With a plan to complete all 14 eight-thousand metre summits in seven months, Nims summited

the first mountain on 23 April 2019 and completed Project Possible 14/7 six months later with a

successful summit on 29 October using supplemental oxygen. Project possible has now been made

into a Netflx documentary called 14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible...

But K2 is altogether different beast... Standing 8,611m above sea level, K2 is the second highest

peak, dwarfed only by Mount Everest, and the only 8,000m peak in the world that had never been

climbed during winter with attempts on the mountain normally made in July or August, during the

warmest periods.

Although previously only attempted in the summer months, K2 has one of the deadliest records,

killing one climber for every four who succeed in reaching its summit. In winter the odds of survival

are even less. Since the first attempt in 1954, 87 climbers have perished on its slopes and only 377

have successfully reached the summit.

The extra challenges that winter brings are winds of up to 200km per hour and temperatures as

low as minus 60oC. Climbers have to navigate nearly sheer rock faces rising 80 degrees, while

avoiding frequent and unpredictable avalanches. There are numerous natural hurdles including the

Black Pyramid and the deadliest part of the climb, the Bottleneck, a steep gully ridges with columns

of glacial ice prone to collapsing. It was here that 11 people lost their lives in 2008, when one of the

ridges broke free sending an avalanche into the group of climbers. None survived.

However, the descent is where most of the deaths (85%) happen because climbers use all their

energy reaching the summit and leave no reserves.

Only eight expeditions have attempted a winter ascent, but Nims and his crew are the first to reach

the summit.

The full list of those who summitted K2 in winter is: Nirmal Purja (Team Nimsdai), Mingma David

Sherpa (Team Nimsdai), Mingma Tenzi Sherpa (Team Nimsdai), Geljen Sherpa (Team Nimsdai),

Pem Chiri Sherpa (Team Nimsdai), Dawa Temba Sherpa (Team Nimsdai), Mingma G (Team

Mingma G), Dawa Tenzing Sherpa (Team Mingma G), Kilu Pemba Sherpa (Team Mingma G) and

Sona Sherpa (Team SST).

Here is what the 37-year-old had to say about the team's extraordinary feat:

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What are the main three things that separates a winter

climb from a summer one?

The three main elements are: the extreme cold temperatures,

weather conditions and the climber's ability to function in such

environment.

Your story has been embraced by the world as a slice of

hope in dark times, so how proud are you that a team of

Nepalese climbers could give hope and joy to so many

people in need? This event will always remain as one of

the most special moments of my life. What we have achieved

and earned wasn't for any individual gain. I am humbled

that we were able to share this moment and reach out to the

communities around the world, in the middle of a pandemic.

We were able to relay a strong positive message. Pushing the

human limits and making that impossible possible as a team

showed that what can be achieved with solidarity and unity.

Nothing is impossible if you put your heart, mind and soul into it.

Which parts of the challenge were you most afraid of

before you set off and which parts turned out to be the

hardest during it? I had frost nip on my fingers and hadn't

acclimatised adequately above Camp 2 (6,600m). The decision

to press on summit push was a tough one. There was no such

thing as the hardest challenge during the climb, as the entire

journey was a challenge of its kind.

What makes K2 such a special, mystical mountain

compared to Mount Everest in the winter? It was the hardest

and the last remaining challenge. Mount Everest was already

climbed in winter.

How are you feeling mentally and physically right now

after completing such an incredible feat? I feel great. All my

team members made it home safe and sound and that what is

matters the most.

Tell us about your Nepalese partners for the summit

ascent - how did you choose the team, and how important

were they in the successful attempt? K2 winter was no

joke! Selecting team members was not limited to their physical

ability but they needed to have a strong mindset too. Everyone

needed to have a sheer desire and determination to make this

impossible possible for humankind and for the Nepali climbing

community, who have always been the frontier of 8000m but

never received their due. I am super proud of all my team

members. The success was a joint team effort, a symbol of

hardship, selfless effort and unity.

What did you take away from completing Project Possible

that helped you in your K2 quest? Climbing 14 x 8000ers in

six months wasn't easy, of course. There was a lot of ups and

downs. I learnt a lot through the experiences and gathered

knowledge.

What skills from your time in the UK's Special Boat Service

helped you the most on this challenge? I think the main one

is the ability to make decisions in any stressful environment.

You have to keep yourself calm and composed, whatever the

situation is, and have that positive outlook.

You have been breaking records at an astonishing speed.

Are you going to have a rest or have you already got

another challenge up your sleeve? I love pushing my limits. I

heard someone saying that Nimsdai is full of surprises. Let's put

it that way, who knows what's next!

You are known to like a good party after your feats. How

long will this one last? Aha, one needs a good celebration

after a feat like this. It's like recuperation. I feel extremely happy

seeing all my team members happy. It may last a few weeks,

for sure.

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CENTRAL

OTAGO

*

Cycling

CENTRAL OTAGO

The Cycling on Central Otago Cycle trails

provides a huge range of great options

for all riders at Grade 1 – 3 levels. That

is without even looking at the options for

those wanting cross country and downhill

hill options.

The Otago Central Rail Trail from Clyde to Middlemarch has been

attracting riders from around New Zealand and the world for over 20

years and is the “Original Great Ride”. It was the result of some very

forward thinking from landowners and DOC on the closure of the Railway

line from Ranfurly to Middlemarch in the early 90’s. This trail suits

families, social groups, and the individual travellers with a great range of

accommodation from DOC campsites, Holiday Parks B’nB’s, purposebuilt

lodges and if you are wanting that special boutique experience that

can be provided as well. The trail is 152 kms in total and can be ridden

over 3-5 days,with 4 days being the most popular as it allows for those

sore bums and to enjoy everything the trail has to offer. Food is not a

problem with some of NZ’s best and brightest country pubs and cafes

along the way. This trail is all grade 1 so suits all riders from the less

experienced or very young through to those where cycling is a passion.

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The Roxburgh Gorge Trail from Alexandra

(most people do start from Clyde) to the

Roxburgh Hydro Dam 22 / 34km riding. It is

usually combined with the Clutha Gold trail

for a great multi day experience, however,

it is a great 1-day trip for those on a shorter

timeframe. The Gorge is considered NZ "Little

Grand Canyon". The views are stunning, and it is

complemented by an awesome boat ride in the

middle to connect the ends of the trail. This boat

trip provides you with all the history of this area

focusing on the gold mining in particular. There

is some significant climbing, but it is all easily

ridable with the highest grade being Grade 2.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55


The Clutha Gold Trail is an awesome Grade 1 trail that

follows the mighty Clutha Mata Au River from the Lake

Roxburgh Dam to Beaumont on a undulating flowing ride. It

then heads to Lawrence via Big Hill tunnel. You pass through

Millers Flat and then the Beaumont Gorge stopping at

Horseshoe Bend bridge and a side trip to the Lonely Graves

beckons. Finishing in Lawrence allows you to bring all that

gold mining history to a closure with a great little museum and

the opportunity to visit Gabriel’s Gully, the home of NZ’s first

major Gold Rush. This trail is also under further development

with it hopefully reaching Milton later this year, allowing more

people to enjoy the accommodation, cafes and shops that

Lawrence has to offer.

The Lake Dunstan Trail has opened this year and has proved

to be a huge drawcard for both local and out of town riders. It

is a wonderful 40km ride from Old Cromwell Town to Historic

Clyde on a trail that varies between Grade 1 and Grade 3. It is

super important to ride within your means. The ride to Coffee

A Float is perfect for families and novices from there you need

to be competent riders to ensure you and other riders on the

trail have a safe and enjoyable trip. The engineering on this

trail is second to none with amazing cantilever sections and

stunning stonework.

The opportunity for combining all or some of these trails or

sections of all of them is huge. If you are looking at staying

in one place then Clyde beckons, then you can do 3 one day

trips on the OCRT, the Roxburgh Gorge and finish with the

Lake Dunstan Trail the perfect progression and three totally

different experiences. If you are wanting a multi-day cycle

experience with different accommodation each evening and

riding for 5 days, in fact up to 10 days you can combine all 4

trails.

Grades

Grade 1 (Easiest)

Suitable for novice riders, families and others seeking an

easy, relaxing cycling experience. Most bikes are suitable,

including touring bikes, hybrid bikes and children’s bikes.

E-bikes are also suitable as long as they are ridden

appropriately and have sufficient battery capacity.

Off-road trails are smooth (firm gravel or sealed), with only

gentle climbs and generally wide enough for side-by-side

riding. Many follow old rail trails. On-road sections of Great

Rides generally follow quiet roads with little traffic.

Grade 2 (Easy)

Suitable for most riders including beginners, occasional

cyclists and families with limited cycling experience. A

multi-geared bike with medium to wide knobbly tyres is

recommended, such as a comfort bike, touring bike or

mountain bike. E-bikes are also suitable as long as they are

ridden appropriately and have sufficient battery capacity.

Off-road trails are usually wide and smooth (firm gravel

or sealed), with some gentle climbs. These trails are

predictable, i.e. have no nasty surprises. On-road sections

of Great Rides generally follow quiet roads with little traffic.

Grade 3 (Intermediate)

Suitable for regular experienced cyclists with a good

level of fitness and over 12 years old; children should be

accompanied by an adult.

A mountain bike is recommended for off-road sections.

E-mountain bikes are suitable provided they are ridden

appropriately, have sufficient battery capacity, and the rider

is capable of completing the trail in the event of a battery/

power failure.

For on-road trails/sections on gravel roads, bikes with

knobbly tyres are recommended. Road racing tyres are

generally not suitable.

Off-road trails can be narrow and may include hills, steep

drop-offs and small river crossings. Trail surfaces are

mainly firm but may include muddy or loose sections, and

obstacles such as rocks or tree roots.

On-road trails/sections may have moderate traffic levels (up

to 1000 vehicles a day), and include hill climbs and gravel

sections. Note: all Heartland Rides are grade 3 or above.

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Reviews from

millions of Tripadvisor

travellers place this

attraction in the top

10% worldwide.

Come cycling in

stunning Central Otago

and let the experts look

after all your needs.

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail

and more...

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days

Cromwell Bike Shop open 7 days

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

Tripadvisor

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Choice

Bike It Now!

⬤⬤⬤⬤⬤


Words and images by Rob Wilson

New Zealand Tamatea Blue Project - Ghost Diving NZ

Ghost Divers join the dive charter Pure Salt to descend

into historical Fiordland to remove over 5000kgs of bottles

and junk from the seemingly pristine water of this exclusive

location. Anchors and plundered sinks from a nearby wreck

of historic significance are just some of the items we have

removed from the sites during this project. In total in three

years and 9 dives we have removed 11,500kgs from Dusky

Sound

Helicopter insertion for a dive felt very much like we

were special forces

Helicopter insertion through some of the most incredible

mountains felt very much like we were special forces and

especially so as an ex NZ Navy vessel the *M.V Flightless

was waiting for us at our landing zone. (*now owned by local

business Pure Salt - www.puresalt.co.nz.) However, with

such a unique insertion, carry on equipment was restricted

so we were travelling light.

The flight through the snow-capped peaks is definitely one

of the most incredible experiences of my life, I was virtually

speechless at its sheer rugged beauty. The helicopter

touches down on a platform on top of the majestic 27m

vessel the Flightless.

We met Maria and Sean our hosts who have hosted myself

and the team during this incredible project. They were the

most amazing people with passion, energy, sheer love

and respect for this land we all call home - Aotearoa (New

Zealand.)

The "Tamatea Blue Project" has a double meaning. One is

that 'Dusky Sound', the area we were heading to, is called

'Tamatea' in Maori language. The other is that the area

pays homage to one of New Zealand’s greatest explorers

'Tamatea, who has been described as the ‘Māori Marco

Polo’. He circumnavigated the North and South islands and

also explored inland. He was sometimes called Tamateapōkaiwhenua

(land explorer) or Tamatea-pōkaimoana (sea

explorer). And to say this area was of historic significance is

by far the understatement of 2020.

This area marks the very first meaningful interaction

with those Europeans from the outside world

This area marks the very first meaningful interaction with

those Europeans from the outside world as Captain Cook on

his second voyage interacted directly with the 'Iwi' (Tribes)

in 1773. And the cove that the project was operating in

is a beautiful site called 'Luncheon Cove' where the first

European settlement in New Zealand located in 1792.

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Fiordland rain is something else, “Well it is a rainforest”


Left to right: Historic sink plundered from the wreck of the Waikare, recovered by our team in Luncheon Cove.

Rob Edward - James Croker and Eddie Howard descend to the black coral.

Some of the 40 batteries recovered

Opposite page: Stuart Day and Rob Wilson clear their safety stop and prepare to ascend after the tyres they have sent to the surface.

Now fast forward to 2021 now our third

visit to Dusky, the dive team suit up into

their drysuits and Halcyon kit, ready

to dive in this incredibly exclusive and

isolated location. In all honesty I was not

expecting what we usually encounter

with our typical Ghost Diving dives or

when we dive for Project Baseline Clyde

Quay. Surprisingly enough, the sight I

saw was not so dissimilar!

Bubbles roared from the exhaust tee

of my Halo as I descended through the

tannin rich water, scanning left and right

I saw two Seven-Gill Sharks come up

out of the depths to welcome our team to

the area, it was wonderful. Sadly though,

within minutes I scootered over a huge

pile of car batteries, initially I estimated

at least 20. The actual amount once

we dug them out of the seabed was

horrifying at 40! (1000kgs of car batteries

alone.) We knew we had our work cut

out for us....

Freedivers and technical divers

working in harmony

Since the launch of Ghost Diving here in

NZ, I have constantly seen the value of

working with highly skilled freedivers and

this project again proved their invaluable

support.

Throughout this annual project, we have

been working side by side with some

incredible free-divers and they are truly

amazing. The one item we find by the

mountain is long neck beer bottles –

there were literally 1000s.

Both Scuba and Free teams haul beer

bottle after beer bottle filling giant canvas

bags to be removed in one hit with our

lift bags. We have even found multiple

anchors over the last three years and

they had snared everything from fishing

lines to ropes of various flavours.

One of the items as irony has it, to be

discovered was as I surged home to the

vessel on my DPV (Dive Xtras scooter),

I noticed an odd circular shape on the

sea bed. The circle was no more than an

inch across, but after years of doing this,

I have an uncanny eye for the uncanny!

Descending back to the sea floor I began

clawing at the edges of this bizarre

looking object. To my surprise, it was

another sink! (We found another one on

our first trip in 2019.)

We had literally found everything

including the kitchen sink and as soon

as I saw the Union Steamship logo, I

knew again it was something interesting.

In actual fact, this sink had a surprising

significance.

We had literally found everything

including the kitchen sink

This particular sink as had the previous

one from 2019 had been plundered and

then dumped from a nearby wreck of a

vessel called the 'Waikare' a steamship

that had struck an uncharted rock

between Indian island and Passage Inlet

in 1910 before beaching on Stop Island

for the passengers to safely disembark.

The skipper Sean and Maria recognised

the sink and its significance straight

away - again showing their intimate

knowledge of this area. Maria and Sean

without hesitation got this historic sink off

to a local maritime museum where the

sink is now proudly on display.

The teams worked in amazing cohesion

for the time we had in the darkened

water. A grand total of over 5000kgs was

removed from this amazing area, most of

which was thrown from visiting vessels.

And at the end of the project the Pure

Salt team spoiled us with a dive to see

the majestic black coral

Tamatea/Dusky Sound of course is world

famous for its black coral some of which

we found in 11m of water and any diver

will tell you that is incredible as it is as

a deep water species. At the end of the

project, the Pure Salt team spoiled us

with a dive to see this majestic black

coral in 25-29m of water.

Something rare and fascinating grows

in the depths of Milford Sound – black

coral. Known as antipathes fiordensis,

this black coral is native to the Fiordland

area. Black coral usually lives in deep

ocean but thanks to the geology of

Milford Sound, you can see black coral

as shallow as 10 metres below the

surface.

As heavy rainfall drains through the lush

forests, it gets stained with tannins until

that is the colour of strong tea. Because

fresh water is less dense than salt water,

the rainwater forms a protective top layer

over the salt water from the incoming

Tasman Sea. The darkened fresh water

blocks sunlight, with light levels at 10m

deep in Milford Sound being equivalent

to those at about 70m in the open sea.

Due to this unique environment, the fiord

supports the world’s biggest population

of black coral trees.

There are 60 varieties of black coral in

Dusky Sound and it is also home to rare

red corals and the enormous bubblegum

coral, which can grow up to seven

metres high and live for centuries. There

are about seven million colonies of coral

in Dusky Sound.

A truly magnificent location and an

incredibly valuable project.

The initial success of our first project in

2019 was the first stepping stone for the

now annual Tamatea Blue Project with

the crew of Pure Salt. Some of my teams

are joining me again and some gutsy

volunteers and battle tested freedivers

to again make a difference to this once

pristine environment.

We will endeavour to return this magical

place to its true majesty before the onset

of those before us.

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Would you like to donate? www.givealittle.co.nz/cause/ghost-diving-nz

For more information and memberships gfnzmembership@gmail.com


MACKENZIE

COUNTRY

*

LEGENDARY

MACKENZIE

Your 2022 Adventure Bucket List

The last two years have made us really appreciate what's In

our own backyard - yet so many still haven't gone beyond

the beaten track, and explored the not so well-known "hidden

gems". With much of the world reopening It's borders, and New

Zealand soon to follow, 2022 Is undoubtedly the year to get

these bucket-list adventures done.

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Lake Tekapo from UC Mount John Observatory


Glentanner Heli Hike

The Mackenzie Region Is home to some of New Zealand's most

recognisable Icons such as Aoraki and the piercingly blue lakes

of Pūkaki and Tekapo. The region (which includes the townships

of Fairlie, Lake Tekapo, Aoraki/Mount Cook and Twizel) also

boasts the world's largest gold dark sky reserve, New Zealand's

largest glacier and some of the most spectacular trails and

backcountry to adventure in. It's no wonder the region was

one of the most popular international visitor spots prior to the

pandemic.

Here's our top adventures to put on your list in 2022:

Ski The Tasman Glacier

Dark Sky Project, UC Mount John Observatory

1. Overnight next to Aoraki

Alpine Guides' Plateau Hut Overnight trip Is the perfect 'easy'

mountain adventure with no mountaineering experience

necessary. Stay In the modern NZ alpine hut (where

mountaineers stay before they make their Aoraki ascent)

and enjoy the 'big mountain' terrain. You'll accompanied by

a professional guide who will show you all that’s required for

safe glacier travel, including crampons, snowshoes and ice

axe skills. One of the many highlights is a non-technical climb

to the summit of Glacier Dome (2,452m) – a snow-clad peak

on the very flanks of Aoraki/Mount Cook. The experience Is

great for astrophotographers and star lovers who love a taste of

adventure. Alpineguides.co.nz

Alpine Recreation's Mt Cook Trek is a two day guided trek

through amazing alpine terrain In Aoraki/Mount Cook National

Park. Enjoy a night In the private Caroline Hut whilst savouring

the mindblowing views (and sounds) of the 2000m high Caroline

Face of Aoraki. You'll be awed by the sunsets, stars and the

sounds of avalanches rumbling down Aoraki. The Mt Cook Trek

Is beginner mountaineering and more demanding than any of the

Great Walks - you'll need to have previous hiking, backpacking

or bushwalking experience. alpinerecreation.co.nz

2. Grow your mountaineering skills

Amping to get into the mountains but don't quite have the

technical capability or confidence to do your dream alpine

adventure? Alpine Recreation, Alpine Guides and Southern

Alps Guiding provide a range of group and personalised

mountaineering and climbing courses to help aspiring and

experienced mountaineers build their technical abilities and

confidence, setting solid foundations for future years of

exploration. Learn the technical skills of mountaineering, risk

awareness, how to assess weather and hazards, and more.

After completing a course you’ll be able to plan your own trips

above the snowline, choose a safe route, travel confidently

through snow, and other essential skills for safe mountaineering.

alpineguides.co.nz, mtcook.com, alpinerecreation.co.nz

3. Experience rural Mackenzie

The Mackenzie is renowned for its spectacularly rugged farming

terrain and tough pioneering spirt. If the challenging alpine

terrain within Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park Isn't what you're

after - then try a single or multi day guided walk across one of

our Iconic high country stations. You’ll gain a rich insight into

what it takes to farm in this rugged part of the country.

Roundhill Ski Area

Four Peaks High Country Track is a 2-4 day/night walk or

mountain bike ride over a historic sheep station, in the hills near

Fairlie, 2 hours from Christchurch. The track is an initial 17km

drive in a 4WD vehicle to the start of the track. The walk itself

is an approximate 25km round trip over Four Peaks Station

following the route taken by pioneer farmers and shepherds

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Plateau Hut Overnight, Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park

Tekapo Adventures Mackenzie Alpine Hike


in the 1850s when sheep were first farmed in

the area. The unique shepherds’ huts (including

NZ’s oldest surviving shepherd’s hut) are those

used by shepherds for mustering and boundary

keeping from the 1860s to the 1970s when there

was little or no fencing in the South Island high

country. They have been upgraded for comfort

and cosiness with flush toilets and hot showers,

while taking care to retain as much of their original

history and charm as possible. Your packs are

transported from hut to hut so you only walk/bike

with a small daypack to carry lunch & wet weather

gear. walkfourpeaks.co.nz

Tekapo Adventures offer the stunning Mackenzie

Alpine Hiking tour - a 2 night guided walking

experience that takes you through the Iconic

Glenmore Station which spans over 50,000 acres

and neighbours Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park.

The trek Is catered towards moderate fitness

levels, and operates December - May. You'll stay

In private huts and even visit New Zealand's (and

possibly the world's) highest whiskey hut - aptly

named Bad Decision Hut. This hike Is everything

you think of when you think Mackenzie working

stations - It offers mountainous backcountry, U

shaped valleys carved by glaciation, waterfalls,

glaciers, moraines and braided river systems.

tekapoadventures.co.nz

If time doesn’t allow a multi-day walk then

Glentanner Heli-Hike is for you. Explore the

stunning Glentanner Station by foot on this 3.5

hour guided descent. This iconic working station

overlooks Lake Pūkaki and Aoraki Mount Cook

National Park, offering some of the world’s most

spectacular views. The new walking tour has been

created since the pandemic, and has been a hit

with the domestic market. Glentanner.co.nz

4. Winter different

The Mackenzie transforms into a winter playground

over the cooler months, offering a plethora of

amazing experiences for the winter adventurer.

Alpine Guides, Southern Alps Guiding, Heliworks,

The Helicopter Line and Mt Cook Ski Planes and

Helicopters all offer a range of heli-ski options In

Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park. And whilst the

word 'heli-ski' sounds like technically challenging

terrain, there's actually something to suit almost

every level of skier. Skiing the Tasman Glacier

Is perfect for families and groups of mates with

differing abilities - It's easy to Intermediate (blue/

green) runs with unbeatable views of Aoraki. If you

strike a good day you'll get Inside Ice caves and

see Incredible formations as well. The competent

skier will also be satisfied In the National Park -

simply call one of the region's heli-ski operators to

discuss what might work for you.

Ski The Tasman Glacier

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67


Tekapo Adventures Mackenzie Alpine Hike

Getting there

The Mackenzie approximately 2.5 hours drive

on the main highway between Christchurch and

Queenstown. The closest airport Is Timaru which

offers direct flights from Wellington. There are a

range of rental (self-drive) options. Intercity and

Cheeky Kiwi Travel also offer coach services

between Christchurch and Queenstown.

Recommended Stay

• Skyscape, Twizel

• Quail Rest, Lake Benmore

• Highland Farm Stay, Twizel

• Musterers, Fairlie

• The Cairns, Lake Tekapo

Recommended Eats

• Fairlie Bakehouse

• Mint Folk & Co, Twizel

• Silverstream Hotel, Kimbell

• Grumpy Cow, Lake Tekapo

• Blue Lake Eatery, Lake Tekapo

• Mountaineers, Aoraki

Recommended Add On's:

• Tekapo Springs Hot Pools

• Dark Sky Project stargazing tour

• Glacier Explorers

• Omarama Clay Cliffs

• Hooker Valley Track

Visit www.mackenzienz.com for Inspiration and

Information when planning your next adventure In

the Mackenzie.

Alpine Recreation offers a range of guided ski and split

board touring trips and backcountry experiences In some of

the country's most spectacular winter wilderness locations.

They also offer ski touring and backcountry instruction

courses for those wanting to build confidence and

competence. They own and operate two private, heated

huts and can create touring options to cater for various ski

and boarding abilities, fitness levels and objectives. For

those wanting to tour without a guide, Glenmore Station

offers a range of bookable huts perfect for the experienced

ski-tourer.

In addition to these bucket-list winter ski adventures, don’t

forget to head to the three boutique skifields (Dobson,

Roundhill, Ōhau) which offer a more relaxed pace to the

bigger fields in the surrounding regions. A mulled wine or

cider overlooking Lake Tekapo at Roundhill’s von Brown

Hut is a must.

5. Alps 2 Ocean

The Mackenzie Is the starting point of the popular Great

Ride Alps 2 Ocean, with starting points in both Lake Tekapo

and Aoraki/Mount Cook. The trail Is widely regarded as

providing New Zealand’s condensed topography all in one

ride: snow-capped mountains; emerald green paddocks;

native bush; wide-open golden grasslands; and a flowing

journey of water from glaciers, turquoise lakes, rivers,

canals, finishing up at the Pacific Ocean. The full trail is

315km with the end point in Ōamaru. Most take 5-7 days

to complete the trail (and enjoy the myriad of experiences

and eateries along the way) however there are also

opportunities for day trips. There's a range of operators

provided guided tours, logistics and bike (Including e-bike)

rentals making the preparation and experience easy.

alps2ocean.com

68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


TEAHUPO’O -TAHITI 11TH OF JULY 2019

A good South swell, and the islands of Tahiti

get the best waves in the world. This image

was shot by Bogus Sta from Tahiti. Teahupo'o

has produced some breath-taking images

over the years and Bogus has manged to

capture some amazing moments.

Bogus commented about this image

“This wave was a bomb and it really surprised

us all, luckily I had time to shoot Raimana

making a perfect ride as the west bowl was

getting super heavy. I had to hurry to escape

from the impact zone (Bogus was swimming)

few of us got shook but nobody got hurt!

What a moment, this is what we are living for!

Mauruuru (thank you) to the ocean, we live in

heaven!”

Raimana Van Bastolaer has made a career

out of surfing the world’s thickest wave in

Teahupo'o if its big he is normally the first out

there.

VOLGA RIVER, TOLYATTI, RUSSIA

Photographer Alexey Shabanov talks about the shot:

"Last summer turned out to be difficult for everyone. Fortunately, my

wife and I spent this time out of town, in a place surrounded by a

forest and the Volga River. It is such a beautiful place, so I couldn’t

resist taking pictures. Flying over one of the islands, I noticed that

the sand dunes beautifully go into the river, creating a fantastic

relief similar to the slopes of mountains. As it was quite an isolated

location it was difficult to find an athlete who was ready to put my

ideas into practice. And that’s when Instagram really helped me!

I posted a request and my old friend, Anton Popov, immediately

reacted and said that he was ready to do anything to get into the

photo (his exact words). A couple of days later we went to the

location to implement this idea. The morning sun very beautifully

emphasised the relief of the sandy beach and created a real feeling

of an athlete going down the mountainside." Red Bull Illume.

Follow Bogus in Instagram

https://www.instagram.com/bogus689/?hl=en

70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


posure

X


Merrell Sandspur 2 Flip - Men’s $129.00

Designed for all day comfort the Sandspur Flip

is an easy and simple summer choice, providing

extra cushioning and wearability for any or all warm

weather occasions.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

Merrell Jungle Moc Funfetti - Men’s and Women’s

$199.00

A celebration in every step. Our 40th Anniversary

Jungle Moc, is our famous low-maintenance shoe

reimagined to commemorate four decades of

breaking new ground on and off the trail.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

merrell Jungle Slide - Men’s and Women’s $169.00

It’s finally back, we’ve waited many years for the

Jungle Slide to return. With the same comfort loved

by wearers of the Jungle Moc this slide provides an

even easier slip on to add to the family collection.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

Merrell Moab Speed - Women’sl $259.00

The world’s most popular hiking boot taken a step

further. The Moab Speed is faster, lightweight

hybrid. Our ventilated version suitable for hot

summer days on the trail are now back in stock for

both Women and Men.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

glerups The Slip-on Forest Honey Rubber $179.00

Looking for a versatile, comfortable, odorless

slipper? Made with 100% wool, take your glerups

on every adventure. Relax and recover in glerups.

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ

hoka CHALLENGER ATR 6 $269.95

This adaptable, all-terrain shoe defies convention —

performing light on the trail and smooth on the street,

thanks to its midsole geometry and outsole construction.

Dynamically designed for versatile traction, its distinctive

outsole has zonal construction to optimize grip and

weight. Developed with broad, closely spaced zonal

lugs, the Challenger ATR 6’s outsole delivers smooth

transitions from one surface to another. This season’s

iteration utilizes recycled UNIFI Reprieve yarn derived

from post-consumer waste plastic.

WWW.HOKA.CO.NZ

Keen Targhee Waterproof Mid Boot (Women’s) $289.99

The Targhee collections fit, durability and performance

have earned it a loyal following over the past 15 years.

With a bold new design, this update is tough, lean and

ready or the next chapter of epic adventure.

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


FEATURED FOOTWEAR

Keen Targhee Waterproof Mid Boot (Men’s) $289.99

The Targhee collections fit, durability and performance

have earned it a loyal following over the past 15 years.

With a bold new design, this update is tough, lean and

ready or the next chapter of epic adventure.

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Women’s) $349.99

What if every step could feel easier? Meet the e-bike

of hiking boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX

technology to flex where you do. We took the trusted

fit of our iconic Targhee hiker and paired it with our

new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to flex

easier and reduce the energy.

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Men’s) $349.99

What if every step could feel easier? Meet the

e-bike of hiking boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS

FLEX technology to flex where you do. We took the

trusted fit of our iconic Targhee hiker and paired it

with our new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to

flex easier and reduce the energy.

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

KEEN NXIS (woMen’s)

The faster you go, the farther you go, the more you’ll

see. That means more alpine hikes, more sunset

views, and an extra-full camera roll. Splash through

every puddle, hop across rocks, and slide through

scree. Our lightest hiker to date with the KEEN

famous fit and all-terrain tread, NXIS is ready for

whatever your A to B looks like.

• Famous Comfort: Fit 18 years in the making,

our original fit holds your heel firmly in place

while giving your toes room to spread out.

• All-Terrain Tread: Our proprietary horseshoe

tread has deep lugs for extra grip on any trail

surface.

• Iconic Toe Protection: Move fast with

confidence, not stubbed toes. The split toe cap

strikes a balance between protection and feel.

• Waterproof: Thanks to a breathable KEEN.DRY

waterproof membrane that keeps out water.

Available at WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ FROM 1

MARCH 2022.

RRP: $349.99

KEEN NXIS (Men’s)

The faster you go, the farther you go, the more you’ll

see. That means more alpine hikes, more sunset

views, and an extra-full camera roll. Splash through

every puddle, hop across rocks, and slide through

scree. Our lightest hiker to date with the KEEN

famous fit and all-terrain tread, NXIS is ready for

whatever your A to B looks like.

• Famous Comfort: Fit 18 years in the making,

our original fit holds your heel firmly in place

while giving your toes room to spread out.

• All-Terrain Tread: Our proprietary horseshoe

tread has deep lugs for extra grip on any trail

surface.

• Iconic Toe Protection: Move fast with confidence,

not stubbed toes. The split toe cap strikes a

balance between protection and feel.

• Waterproof: Thanks to a breathable KEEN.DRY

waterproof membrane that keeps out water.

Available at WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ FROM 1

MARCH 2022.

RRP: $349.99


Marmot Wm’s Beta tank $79.95

On an early morning climb, hike, or run,

and the heat's already working against

you? That's when the lightweight Women's

Beta Tank Top comes in handy. Quickdrying,

moisture-wicking AirExchange

fabric offers exceptional breathability and

keeps you comfortable even if you break

out in a sweat. Its sleeveless style won't

weigh you down or interfere with mobility,

and the mesh racerback detail blends in

with your sports bra.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Wallace Polo $109.95

When you need to be on your best

behavior, the Wallace Polo Short Sleeve

errs on the side of conservative. Despite

the relaxed look with a three-button

placket, the drirelease performance fabric

allows this lightweight polo to quickly

dry and breathe while maintaining a soft

feel. Flat-locked seams sit comfortably,

minimizing at least one irritation in

uncomfortable dinner table situations.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Aerobora SS $99.95

When you need to be on your best

behavior, the Wallace Polo Short Sleeve

errs on the side of conservative. Despite

the relaxed look with a three-button

placket, the drirelease performance fabric

allows this lightweight polo to quickly

dry and breathe while maintaining a soft

feel. Flat-locked seams sit comfortably,

minimizing at least one irritation in

uncomfortable dinner table situations.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Wm’s Kodachrome short $119.95

Climbs, technical hikes, and adventurous

scrambles—the Women's Kodachrome

Shorts with 10-inch inseam prepare you

for all. The abrasion-resistant nylon can

handle the jagged branches and rough

rocks you might encounter, while the

stretch construction and inseam gusset

allow for plenty of mobility. The moisturewicking

DriClime® waistband and quickdrying

fabric help reduce chafing so you

stay comfortable. Keep small essentials

securely stowed in the zipper pocket.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Macpac Men’s Weekender Shorts $109.99

Designed to look like they’re made from

a cotton canvas, these shorts are actually

made from an abrasion resistant, moisture

wicking nylon/elastane blend for functional

performance. Triple stitching increases

strength where it’s needed, six pockets provide

plenty of space for adventure essentials, and

yes, they can be worn any day of the week.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Limitless Bra $69.99

Seamless, supportive and anti-odour treated, the

Limitless Bra is ideal for low to medium impact

activity. Its body-mapped design increases airflow,

its unique moisture-wicking fabric optimises

performance, and the generous elastane rib

ensures a snug fit that doesn’t compromise

freedom to move. Made with Polygiene®

technology for permanent odour control.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Women’s Winger Shorts $89.99

These classic go anywhere, do anything shorts

are a redesigned staple. Initially made for hikers

in the 90s, the nylon taslan they’re crafted from

these days is moisture-wicking and water ready,

with a soft peach finish and a small zipped key

pocket built into the side seam. Great for days in

and around the hills, rivers, lakes, and shores. Also

available in sizes and colours for the whole family.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Marmot Featherless Hybrid Jacket $349.95

The lightweight Men's Featherless Hybrid Jacket

will keep you warm and dry in chilly, damp weather

without weighing down you or your pack. 3M

Thinsulate Recycled Featherless Insulation is

made with 75% recycled loose-fill fibers that feel

just as warm as 700 fill power down, but still perform

in wet conditions. DriClime® Bi-Component lining

wicks away moisture to keep you dry.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Macpac Craigieburn Merino Blend Hooded Jackets $199.99

An easy-wearing option with plenty of utility, the merino

blend this jacket is made from combines the natural

warmth and odour resistance of merino wool with the

strength of polyester in a soft terry knit. The result? A

versatile hoody that’s smooth on the outside, cosy on the

inside, and easy to care for.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Women’s Limitless Hoody $109.99

No matter the activity, the Limitless is ready.

This seamless hoody is body mapped for

performance and made from a nylon/polyester

knit, with strategic mesh that adds structure

and increases airflow. Polygiene® treatment

uses recycled silver to add permanent odour

control, and a touch of reflective detailing

increases visibility after dark.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

marmot PreCip ECO Rain Jacket

(Mens & Womens & Wms Plus & Kids) $199.95

Bold colour blocking and athletic inspiration make the

Women's PreCip® Eco Anorak the waterproof shell

you'll want to keep you dry on everything from outdoor

concerts to trips to the trails. Comfort and repelling

rain won't be an issue thanks to the waterproof and

breathable 2.5-layer Marmot NanoPro fabric and

100% taped seams. The attached hood, elastic cuffs

and adjustable drawcord hem add extra weather

protection. When it's time to go, this packable jacket

stuffs into its own pocket.People/Product/Planet®

Sustainably designed and manufactured in keeping

with our commitment to minimum impact and

maximum performance.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Arch Rock pant $149.95

Head for the hills, trails, and mountains in the

performance-ready Arch Rock Pants. The

abrasion-resistant nylon can handle the jagged

branches and rough rocks you might encounter,

while the stretch construction and inseam gusset

allow for plenty of mobility when you need to

sidestep an obstacle.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

RAB FILAMENT HOODY $179.95

Our Women’s Filament Hoody is built

for high-output pursuits in cold winter

conditions. It uses a lightweight,

fast-wicking Thermic recycled

fleece with a 7% elastane content

for plenty of stretch on difficult

ascents. From arduous backcountry

ski tours to extreme alpine ascents,

it’s a supremely versatile mountain

midlayer.

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.CO.NZ

RAB PULSE HOODY $99.95

Lightweight and fast drying, the

Pulse Hoody is a versatile technical

baselayer, ideal for multi-day climbing

and trekking trips.

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.CO.NZ

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//75


Macpac Amp H²O 2L Hydration Pack $99.99

Go further, deeper, or higher on your next

training run or hike with this pared back

hydration pack. Its integrated bladder and

pockets are big enough to carry fluids,

snacks and an extra layer. It’s small

enough to keep out of the way, and its

ventilated AirMesh back panel fits snug

so that the only thing moving fast is you.

Also available in a 1L size for young

adventurers ($79.99)

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Child Carriers $399.99 -$499.99

Fostering their love for the outdoors (or satisfying

your own urges to get out there) shouldn’t be

a mission in itself. Macpac’s adjustable child

carriers take the hassle out of how they’re going

to enjoy it with you, and they’ve got two options

for growing families. The Possum is the smaller

of the two and it has 9L of storage on the back.

The larger Vamoose comes with 19L of base

storage, the Sombrero sunshade, Rainbow rain

cover, and a detachable 9L daypack. Both are

rated to 20kg max weight.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

marmot Kompressor Comet $79.95

Day hikes, daily bike commutes, and the everyday

grind--we've updated the ultralight Kompressor Comet

pack for maximum comfort and portability, wherever

you find yourself. Ripstop shoulder straps, lightweight

compression straps, and sternum straps keep this

daypack in place without being cumbersome. We made

deeper pockets and added a bike light loop for safety.

The zipper closure makes it easy to reach in and grab

what you need. The Kompressor Comet stows into its

own internal pocket for use as a stuff sack on the go.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Macpac Torlesse Hiking Pack Range $229.99-$499.99

This tried and true design is ideal for every kind

of hike. Its single compartment keeps everything

simple, the combination of Cordura® and ripstop

nylon offers durability you can count on, and the

variety of adjustable harnesses across the range

offer hours of support. Each pack has external

pockets and an integrated rain cover.

Available in 30–65L sizes

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

marmot Kompressor Comet plus $119.95

We've taken our popular ultra-light Kompressor pack

and added more features and space, while retaining

the same amazing compressible performance and

comfort. A front organization pocket is perfect for maps,

lamps, and other on-hand essentials. The entire thing

packs into its own lid!

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

LOWE ALPINE ESCAPE FLIGHT 36L CABIN

BACKPACK $229.95

When you want the freedom of

baggage-free travel for a lightweight

city break or a weekend away, the

cabin-compatible Escape Flight 36

is the zero-fuss way to get there. As

a purpose-built cabin backpack, the

Lowe Alpine Escape Flight 36 puts

security and accessibility at the heart

of its design.

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.CO.NZ

LOWE ALPINE AIRZONE TREK ND33:40L HIKING

BACKPACK WOMEN'S $429.95

Light and comfortable, the ventilated

AirZone Trek ND33:40 women’s hiking

backpack is ideal for lightweight hutto-hut

trips and long-distance summer

hiking. The women’s fit AirZone ND33:40

hiking pack provides a supportive, cool

and comfortable carry. It features our

award-winning, fully adjustable AirZone+

ventilated carry system, with patented

FormKnit technology for all-day

comfort, however intense the hike.

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.CO.NZ

76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Patagonia Black Hole® Duffel 70L $249.99

Made from lightweight yet extremely durable, 100%

recycled polyester ripstop that’s weather-resistant,

abrasion-resistant and highly packable. It easily swallows a

week’s worth of stuff, yet with padded removable shoulder

strap, and removable backpack straps it's ergonomic for

carrying comfort. There's even exterior daisy chains for

lashing any extras you amass while away!

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

Patagonia Arbor Roll Top Pack $249.99

The Arbor Roll-Top Pack accommodates various loads,

with more room when unrolled and slightly more water

protection when closed tightly; includes quick side access to

15" laptop sleeve and side stash pocket for small items. It's

Fair Trade Certified sewn with solution-dyed and 100%

recycled fabrics to save water and reduce CO2 emissions

compared to conventional methods.

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

RAB ESCAPE KIT BAG LT 50 $159.95

Our Escape Kit Bags have evolved from our

Expedition Kit Bags, but with a focus on lightweight

durability for adventure travel. Designed with a

handle that converts to a harness it can be worn as

a backpack for hauling between terminals or short

walks to your campsite.

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.CO.NZ

osprey Rolling Transporter 40 $349.99

Carry-on sized duffel for organising and

protecting smaller gear or clothing items. Ideal

as a standalone, or to complement larger

duffels, and great for a weekend adventuring.

Features include a HighRoad Chassis with

a lightweight aluminium frame, extendable

handle and oversized wheels that handle most

surfaces, TPU coated heavy-duty fabrics and

overlapping rainflap zips to protect your gear

from the elements plus multiple handles for

easy handling.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

osprey Sojourn 60L Wheeled Convertible

Travel Pack $499.99

Proven and rugged HighRoad Chassis

for smooth rolling and a torso adjustable

stowaway, padded harness with tensioned

back panel for comfort when carrying the

pack backpack style. Features include a

retractable handle, padded grab handles,

a top zipped liquids pocket, internal and

external compression straps, internal

organisation pockets, daisy chains to attach

extra gear and the ability to add an Osprey

Daylite Daypack for flexibility and extra

storage (sold separately).

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

osprey Transporter Global Carry-On Bag

$229.99

Streamlined design meets most global

carry-on size regulations and is full of

travel-specific features. Padded handles

plus a shoulder strap, opens out flat for

easy packing and unpacking. Internal

dividers keep your clothes and gear

organised, while on the outside you'll

find a toiletries pocket, a front panel

organisation pocket, a laptop sleeve and a

hidden RFID-safe pocket for your passport

and wallet.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ


FEATURED SLEEPING BAG

The Macpac Dragonfly 400

On my last hike to the Whakapapaiti Hut, I took the

new Macpac Dragonfly 400 sleeping bag. A lightweight

three-season bag, the compression style stuff pack

and weighing in at only 731g meant it took up very little

room in my pack.

During my previous trips to the backcountry hut, I had

found the overnight temperature extremely variable.

Although when the fire is stoked the huts are warm, the

minute the fire goes out the temperature can plummet.

The Macpac Dragonfly 400 adjustable face hole and

hood system is super simple and as well as providing a

good holding spot for my “pillow” it also pulled in super

snug, keeping my neck and body free from the cold air.

The mummy fit is designed to maximise heat while

minimising weight and I found I liked the feel of the

bag snug around my legs. The Dragonfly is purpose

built for minimal weight so they have really stripped

back the features. This means no weight is wasted on

unnecessary gimmicks, so the zip only runs a third of

the way down. This is ideal for warm nights but my feet

often run hot so I am yet to see if I have any issues on

a warmer night.

Without a doubt for me, the feature I love the most is

the material it is made with. I have a tendancy to toss

and turn at night and I am usually very conscious of

the noise a sleeping bag makes every time you move,

however both the inner and outer fabric makes minimal

sound, which I loved.

The sleeping bag comes with a compression style stuff

pack as well as a mesh bag for storage when unused

for long periods of time. This helps maintain loft.

The technical details:

• Filled with 400g of 800 loft HyperDRY RDS

Goose Down which gives great compressibility for

a smaller pack size.

• Inner lined with bluesign® certified nylon

• Outer made with its Pertex® Quantum using their

Y Fuse technology to increase durability and

performance around snow.

• Water resistant HyperDRY RDS goose down

• Adjustable face hole and hood

• Box baffles

• Concealed drawcords

• Increased fill in the draft collar

• 3-coil ⅓ zip

• Temperature Rating: Comfort 1°C / Limit -5°C /

Extreme -22°C

• Weight: 731g

RRP: $699.99

MACPAC CLUB PRICE: $489.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Compression style stuff pack means

it packs up small

When you are not using your bag,

keep it in the mesh storage bag to

help mainatin loft

Simple adjustable hood area helps

keeps out the cold

Marmot Tungsten 2P $549.00

Ready to adventure with you mile after mile, the freestanding Tungsten

2-Person Tent blends durability, roominess, and a livable design. Strategic

clip placement offers more interior volume after a long day on the mountain.

If a downpour approaches, the colour-coded "easy pitch" clips and poles

make for a quick set up, and the seam-taped, catenary-cut floor and

full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection. Dual doors allow

easy entry and exit with vestibule storage space around both doors. The

lampshade pocket stows your headlamp and the included abrasion-resistant

footprint round out the details that make life on the trail easier.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot catalyst 2p $499.o0

Designed as a roomy, livable tent that doesn’t weigh you down, the

freestanding Catalyst 2-Person Tent has all the ideal features for a casual

camping trip. Its strategic clip placement offers more interior volume for

stretching out after a long day of adventuring. The seam-taped catenarycut

floor and full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection, plus the

included footprint protects this camping tent from abrasions. Stash your

pack, poles, and other gear in the two vestibules and tuck a headlamp into

the lampshade pocket for ambient light at night.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Macpac Uber Synthetic Quilt $99.99

This cosy synthetic quilt is made for moment’s that

could use a little extra warmth. Its nylon outer can be

wiped, brushed or shaken clean. The micro padding

fill is 100% recycled, and its pillow-shaped stuff sack

makes the quilt useful even when it’s stashed away.

Think picnics at the beach, starry nights around the

campfire, and crisp mornings on the deck.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

EPE Comas Swag Bag -5 °C Sleeping Bag $199.00

Purposely designed for rugged adventures and

oversized for comfort. The EPE Swagbag features

a hollow fibre layered filling for superior thermal

efficiency when warmth is needed the most. .

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00

Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite self-inflates

in minutes. The tapered design can fit in a sleeping

bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

sea to summit Aeros Premium travel Pillow $59.99

Inflatable, ergonomic, designed to provide exceptional

comfort when sleeping in an upright position while

keeping bulk and weight to a minimum. High strength

TPU bladder, shaped with bulbous arms for more neck

support than traditional neck pillows and the centre is

extra thin, so it doesn't apply pressure to the back of

your neck when pressed into a headrest. Features an

adjustable neck closure. 93gm.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

Kiwi Camping Tuatara Hard Shell Rooftop Tent $4,499.00

The low-profile Tuatara HS is built to handle serious adventures from summit to

sea. Ripstop polycotton makes it ideal for backcountry conditions and the pop-up

gas struts enable instant pitching.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//79


Kiwi Camping hub lantern $84.99

Powerful and functional, the

Hub LED Lantern provides

an impressive 360 degrees of

super bright LED light. Charge

your devices or invert and hang

upside down.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Ceramic Fluxring Cookpot 1.5L $159.95

Take backcountry cooking to the next

level. Our 1.5 FluxRing Cook Pot is a

backcountry essential for solo or group

cooking, and a new ceramic coating

allows for amped up cooking and even

easier cleaning. Gone are the days of

boring camp food sticking to the bottom

of your pot. It’s time to elevate your next

backcountry experience.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

MiniMo $329.95

MiniMo delivers UNMATCHED simmer

control, metal handles, and a low spoon

angle for easy eating! Starting with the

innovative new valve design, MiniMo

delivers the finest simmer control of any

upright canister system on the market.

Thanks to our proprietary regulator

technology and enhanced regulator

diaphragm, MiniMo ensures this consistent

performance down to 20ºF (-6ºC). Its

redesigned cooking cup, the perfect

combination of size, sturdy metal handles,

and optimized height, provides users with

an easy-to-eat experience.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set $139.00

For quick boiling when you need it! A super

lightweight aluminium stove with stainless

steel burner, piezo ignition, stabilising feet and

accessories all packaged in a mesh carry bag.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

jetboil STASH Cooking System $299.95

The lightest and most compact jetboil

ever. We know your dreams are big

and ambitious. Which is why we

designed the all-new Stash to be

lightweight and compact, maximizing

your pack space without sacrificing

that iconic Jetboil performance. At

7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash is 40%

lighter than the .8L Zip.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

Flash 2.0 $249.85

Blistering boil times come standard

on our industry-leading Flash. By

modelling the combustion and

selecting materials to optimize

efficiency, we were able to create

the fastest Jetboil ever—cutting a

full minute off our best boil time. The

Flash cooking system lights with

the click of a button and in just 100s

provides two cups (500ml) of boiling

water for cocoa, coffee, instant soup

or a gourmet freeze-dried meal.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar

power bank $119.00

Built tough for the outdoors and with a

massive battery capacity you can keep

all your devices charged no matter where

your adventure takes you.

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

Summit Skillet $119.95

The nonstick Summit Skillet packs the performance and

punch of home cookware into a compact, lightweight,

elegant, solution designed for the backpacker set. The

ceramic-coated nonstick aluminum construction heats quickly

and evenly, expanding the potential of backcountry cooking.

Coated with , PFOA-free ceramic nonstick, the skillet

releases eggs, pancakes, and other foods easily, making

cleanup a breeze. A perfectly angled turner nests into the

handle, helping you flip foods without fuss. The skillet pairs

perfectly with Jetboil-regulated cooking systems and the

Jetboil pot support. Skillet measures 8 by 8.5 by 1.9 inches

and weighs 10.6 ounces.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

pacsafe RFIDsafe V100 RFID Blocking Bifold Wallet $60.00

This sporty looking wallet keeps your cash and cards safe

from unauthorised transactions with its RFID blocking

material. It has 9 card slots, a zip-secure cash sleeve

and comes with an adjustable cut-resistant wrist strap to

ensure it stays with you.

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

hydroflask 24oz (710mL) Lightweight

Wide Mouth Trail Series: Topaz, Slate,

Obsidian, Clay $99.99

Our Lightweight Trail Series flasks

are 25% lighter, making it easier to

take your hot or cold drink wherever

your adventure takes you.

WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ/

COLLECTIONS/TRAIL-SERIES

kiwi camping Ripper Stool $27.99

A lightweight, compact stool with integrated

carry strap for easy transportation. Wide

feet are ideal for instant seating on soft

ground. Features durable polyester with

sturdy steel frame.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

KEA KIT: Outdoor Survival System $279.99

Be fully prepared for your next adventure with KEA KIT. The compact, modular

and durable survival kit that includes everything you need & nothing you don’t.

WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81


BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed

for the better by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs

per pouch. They have also improved the readability of our back labels.

Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit:

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken, cheese

and vegetables.

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and berries topped

with a delicious gluten free cookie crumb.

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

TIRED

ARMS?

TRY OUR NEW

TASTY CHICKEN

MASH DINNER.

INSTANT PASTA $4.89

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked

pasta.

3.5 Health Stars

Sizes – Family 120g

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Epic coffee Drip Filter’s

Single from $2.99, 10 Pack from $24.99

Your favourite new adventure essential – specialty coffee,

roasted in micro-batches and loaded into adventure-proof

drip filters. Proceeds from every product sold are donated to

ONETREEPLANTED.

WWW.EPICCOFFEE.CO.NZ

Guilt free dinning since 98!

backcountrycuisine.co.nz



Hey Piña 440ml: Fruited Sour 4.5%

ABV $8.99

For decades the pineapple, or 'Piña',

in Spanish, was South America's

precious little secret. The now

famous sweetness blends sublimely

with the vibrant raspberry, balanced

with zesty lime.winter.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

Mango Tango 440ml: Fruited Sour 5%

ABV$8.99

Mango Tango is a magical fusion of

tropical flavours. Mango and Passionfruit

form an elegant connection, embracing

with a vibrant and playful expression of

aromas. Sweet and sour perfection.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

Berrylicious 440ml: Fruited Sours 4.5%

ABV $8.99

Packed full of Blackberries, cherries

and raspberries. Berrylicious is vibrant

and juicy, with a perfect mix of sweet

and sour berry flavours, balanced with

light tartness and subtle floral and

earthy overtones.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

www.packraftingqueenstown.com

Specialising in

small group guided

packrafting trips and

courses from our base

in Queenstown New

Zealand.

www.adventuresouth.co.nz

Whether you enjoy

cycle trails, road

cycling, mountain

biking or walking,

Adventure South NZ

can help you to explore

New Zealand at

your own pace.

Full-service outfitter selling hiking

and mountaineering gear and

apparel, plus equipment rentals.

Specialising in ski & snowboard

touring equipment new & used;

skis, boards, bindings, skins,

probs, shovels,transceivers &

avalanche packs.

www.smallplanetsports.com

Our motto is “Going the

distance” and we pride

ourselves on providing top

quality outdoor and travel

equipment and service

that will go the distance

with you, wherever that

may be.

www.trekntravel.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Our Mission

To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s

fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things

we care about and restoring nature.

www.epiccoffee.co.nz

Our very own online store where

you will find hard goods to keep you

equipped for any adventure.

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will

have you covered.

www.hokaoneone.co.nz

PACKRAFT NZ

Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.

Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and

adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert

advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,

whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.

www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and

tested in New Zealand since 1973.

www.macpac.co.nz

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor

clothing and more.

www.livingsimply.co.nz

Offering the widest variety,

best tasting, and most

nutrient rich hydration,

energy, and recovery

products on the market.

www.guenergy.co.nz

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Jetboil builds super-dependable

backpacking stoves and camping

systems that pack light,

set up quick, and achieve

rapid boils in minutes.

www.jetboilnz.co.nz

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

With stores in Clyde and

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is

your access point to the

Central Otago Bike trials: T

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge

and more...

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

Excellent quality Outdoor

Gear at prices that can't

be beaten. End of lines.

Ex Demos. Samples. Last

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.

Ahnu. Superfeet.

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz


Boutique Sister Resorts

The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium

Cook Islands.

LONELY PLANET’S

TOP Destination

to Visit in

2022!

Experience the Cook Islands’ Signature Beach Resort

• Rarotonga’s best 4 star Full-service beach resort | 111 rooms/suites/bungalow/villas

• Prime, secluded white sandy Aroa Beach | Best snorkelling in Aroa Lagoonarium Marine Sanctuary

• On Rarotonga’s southwest sunshine coast | Sizzling sunsets

• Extensive free activities - stand-up paddleboarding, snorkelling (all-tide), kayaking, tennis, gym,

beachfront swimming pool, learn to dance the hula, make a lei, play the ukulele, husk a coconut

• Kids & Teens Stay + Play FREE (to 16) | Free Moko Kids Club (4-11) | Free Teen Zone (12-16)

• Captain Andy’s Beach Bar & Grill l Function + conference facilities

• SpaPolynesia | Seventh Heaven All-Inclusive + Over The Moon Wedding Packages

• Sister resort to adjacent Sanctuary Rarotonga-on the beach

+ Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort (both adults-only)

Slip off your watch, your shoes, your cares and immerse yourself in Paradise

Aroa Beach + Lagoonarium | Rarotonga | COOK ISLANDS

toll free 0800 727 686 | P (+682) 25800

| info@therarotongan.com

www.TheRarotongan.com (Live Chat avail.)


READY AND WAITING

The Cook Islands are open...

The Cook Islands, on the 14th of January, opened to New Zealand for quarantine free travel! No MIQ, just a negative test and you are

on your way to warm seas and sun filled beaches. But there is a lot more to the Cook Islands than proximity, stunning beaches, and

swaying palms, it is also a mecca for adventure; from its deep-sea fishing to its shallow lagoons for snorkeling and kiting. The Cook

Islands will keep you busy every day for as long as you want. Obviously, there are all the standard tourist ‘’to-do’’ options; the cultural

village, the coconut tree climbing demonstration, the glass bottom boats and trips out to smaller more remote islands. But here we will

outline a few adventures that you may not be aware of...

Group Paddle image thanks to KiteSUP Chasing big ones! Image by Marlin Queen

Image thanks to Adventure Cook Islands

Kiteboarders have known for years

what an amazing destination the

Cook Islands are for any wind-based

sport. But it is also an amazing place

to Learn to kiteboard because of the

Cook Islands shallow lagoon and

warm steady trade winds it is the

perfect place to learn to kiteboard.

There are companies such as Ariki

Adventures and KiteSup just to

mention a couple, who can give you

an introduction to kiteboarding, where

quickly you will have the opportunity to

experience the feeling of flying with an

inflatable kite and get you well on the

road to becoming proficient, in warm

safe water? The local tutors know the

best times, the best wind, and the tides

to make the learning experience fun.

As you would expect, with the

protection of the reef, the lagoon

is ideal for paddleboarding; with

very little swell, crystal-clear water

that is full of marine life. On your

paddleboard, which you can rent or

take a tour, you can access a range of

secluded islands and sandy parts of

the reef. There are several companies

that rent out paddleboards as do many

of the hotels and resorts. However,

if you are not a ‘’go it alone’’ kind of

guy or you just really want a add bit

of local knowledge there are those

running paddleboard tours like Lagoon

Explorer.

As with all South Pacific islands

fishing can be as much fun for

the really experienced down to the

complete novice. The Cook Islands

offer a lot of options like game fishing

with Marlin Queen fishing charter.

Tuna, marlin, Mahi mahi, they openly

brag they are out to get the big ones

and by the look of their website and

images they do just that. But there

are smaller operators like Reef and

Beach fishing tours which is a unique

concept. Mata George (aka Sunshine)

gives a half hour talk first about the

tide, water, and wind in Rarotonga. He

also tells of what not to touch or walk

on to protect the coral and visitors'

own safety. Then an explanation of

the different types of bait for different

types of fishing, what times to go out

and where to find the fish, pure local

knowledge.

Warm clear water and an abundance

of sea life leads to one major activity

- diving. In the Cook Islands some––

resorts, such as The Rarotongan

Beach Resort and Lagoonarium,

offer in house dive lessons, dive

experience and certification in their

hotel pool. There are also a range of

dive operators who can not only take

out qualified divers to experience the

pristine underwater world, but you

can also get PADI certified both in the

lagoon and for the open water.

There are also a range of great options

for trekking. There are bush walks

you can do by yourself, but it is not

like New Zealand and if you wanted

to do a guided trek, like to the top of

Mt Rameau, which takes about 3-4

hours then it is suggested you go with

a local guide company like Adventure

Cook Islands. Wandering off on your

own might seem like fun, but there is

a lot of private land, and it is easy to

get lost.

Rarotonga is not a very big place, and

you can easily rent a scooter to get

around, (make sure you get a licence

from in town they are only $29.50) but

a nicer, quiet option is to bike. There

are again a range of rental options

plus some of the resorts have them

for hire. But you can do tours, it’s not

mountain biking as we know it with

downhill single track but it’s a way to

see the island and interact with the

locals. Like anywhere biking is a nice

way to meet the people, smell the air

and take in the view.

Basically, the Cook Islands have

been looking after tourist for a lot of

years, they are well established and

well prepared to make sure you can

basically do whatever it is you want

to do, easily, professional, and safely.

The hard part is choosing from so

much on offer!

88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Anyone can learn to kiteboard- image thanks to KiteSUP -

Image thanks to Adventure Cook Islands-

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89


VANUATU'S OUTER

ISLANDS Top tips...

Vanuatu’s outer islands are rich in culture, landscape

and adventure, but before you book your flights and

hop over to this tropical paradise, it’s important to get

some tips to help you understand the nuance of this

family of islands. Here are eight things you need to

know before booking your Vanuatu escape.

Get used to island time: Make sure you don’t bring

your traditional approach to time and tourism to

Vanuatu. Sure, you may be told your charter flight

will leave the outer island airport at 2pm, or that your

driver will pick you up at 11am, but don’t be mad if

nobody arrives on time. It’s not done out of spite, or

laziness, there’s just no reason to rush. If you always

keep a good book tucked away in your backpack,

or a deck of cards, you’ll be just fine. Have a couple

of buffer days at the end of your trip as well, just in

case!

Tell your friends and family you’ll be back soon,

you’re going off-grid: It’s so easy to romanticise

going off grid – lying back under coconut palms,

floating in crystal clear waters. Being disconnected

from the cyber world can be both anxiety inducing

and incredible freeing. However, going ‘off-grid’ in the

outer islands of Vanuatu

means more than just no internet. It often means no

electricity either.

While the capital city of Port Vila and main tourism

towns have power and modern amenities, this is not

the case everywhere. Unplugging is part of the charm

of the remote islands of Vanuatu, but it does mean

you need to be prepared. Pack some spare batteries

for your camera and let your friends and family know

you may be out of contact for a few days. You can

get a local sim card, but they don’t work everywhere.

Understand that a lack of electricity will affect your

ability to have a hot shower, run a fan in the heat of

the day and flush a toilet. This is a great opportunity

to let it all go, soak up the sun and the culture, and

sink into Vanuatu life.

90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


Pack your own snorkel

gear: If you’re a keen diver,

you’ll be overwhelmed by

just how many reefs there

are to explore. You won’t

always be able to source

gear to rent, so if you love

to explore the underwater

world, it’s best you bring

your own snorkel and

goggles. You never know

who you might meet under

there: a sleepy dugong,

a friendly turtle or an

excitable pod of dolphins.

Pack your hiking boots:

Vanuatu’s outer islands

aren't just isolated beaches

and fresh coconuts. There

are hundreds of hikes and

volcanoes and waterfalls

that will take your breath

away. Good (waterproof)

hiking boots are essential

if you’re the adventurous

type. Wet weather gear

wouldn’t be a bad idea

either– you never know

when the tropical rains

might hit.

If you’ve got a sweet tooth, stock up on the main islands: There

are few stores dotted around the outer islands, but they don’t always

have the variety of snacks you may be craving – although the fruit

will be unbelievably good. If you fly into Santo or Port Vila, stock up

there. We recommend Aelan chocolate http://aelanchocolate.com/ –

it’s a local social enterprise that makes the most delicious chocolate,

with cocoa grown from the volcanic soil across the outer islands!

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//91


Book most of your activities when

you get there: I know it’s tempting to

book everything before you go – to

get on that plane with a clear plan and

a strict itinerary. But you can’t do that

for the outer islands of Vanuatu. And

that’s part of the magic. It’s part of the

essence of this network of islands.

It’s not about how much you can jam

pack into a small amount of time. It’s

not about aligning things this way and

that. It’s about immersing yourself into

the way of life of the Vanuatu people.

Your loose plans will change. You’ll

learn about an activity that wasn’t

listed online. If you come with a vague

idea but nothing set in stone, you’ll

leave yourself open to the unexpected

adventures that await in Vanuatu. You’ll

also see the most beautiful side of the

people who love to care and share – so

let them!

Get ready to dance: Often, when

you have the privilege of witnessing a

traditional cultural dance in an outer

island village, a smiling local will drag

you into the circle, teach you how to

move, and encourage you to dance

and sing. Embrace this! Move your hips

and stomp your feet and laugh with the

children. Once you allow yourself to let

go, you’ll be dancing your way across

the islands.

Be Prepared

While adventure is why we are here, drama is not. Realising that you

are going into remote areas where there is very little infrastructure,

adjust how you prepare your gear to suit this reality. Ensure you have

a good medical first aid kit, take plenty of cash (there are no ATMs in

the remote islands), insect repellents, bag liners for wet days, pack

spares of necessary items (batteries), medication and so on. Grab

what you need before you go.

More information can be found www.vanuatu.travel

92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230


vanuatu.travel


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Tongariro Crossing Packages: B&B, Shuttle, Lunch, From $266 -$417 per night

info@plateaulodge.co.nz | +64 7 8922993 | www.plateaulodge.co.nz

Your mobile

power solution

www.sunsaver.co.nz

Go further for longer on your next adventure with the Quest Bike Trailer.

The Quest Bike Trailer was born out of the stunning mountains of

Arthurs Pass in the South Island of New Zealand and developed to

withstand the roughest of journeys. A true triumph of Kiwi ingenuity and

a proven product to take you further for longer.

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TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES

-come and hike through our magic landscape-

5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures

$45per person for return trip

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