British Travel Journal | Summer 2021

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

explore the british isles

SUMMER 2021 | ISSUE 09

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

BEST SAILING

ADVENTURES

PROVIDING THE ULTIMATE

ACTIVE ESCAPISM

NATIONAL PARKS

EXPERIENCES

FROM BUSHCRAFT TO GOAT

HERDING, KAYAKING TO

NIGHT-TIME RESERVE WALKS

£6.75

+ WALKING HOLIDAYS | OUTDOOR DIPS | GOOD HEALTH BREAKS

A SECRET

—SANCTUARY

NEW 2 BEDROOM LAKESIDE CABINS & 3 BEDROOM LUXURY APARTMENTS FOR SALE

850 ACRE PRIVATE COTSWOLD ESTATE. TAX BENEFITS. 90 MINUTES FROM LONDON

GUEST SERVICES, 24HR SECURITY, ORGANIC FARM, CAFÉ, TENNIS COURTS, KIDS CLUB, TRIM TRAIL,

PRIVATE WELLNESS SPA AND FITNESS, OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES, OVER-LAKE ZIP WIRE, BOATING, SAILING

For more information call sales:

+44 (0) 1367 250 066

info@thelakesbyyoo.com

thelakesbyyoo.com @lakes_byyoo

The Lakes by Yoo NR Lechlade

Cotswolds Gloucestershire GL7 3DT

C O N T R I B U T I O N S

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

BritishTravelJournal.com

Welcome

EDITOR’S LETTER

—

EDITORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding

CONTRIBUTORS

Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,

Helen Holmes, Emma Johnson,

Adrian Mourby, Emma O’Reilly,

Lydia Paleschi, Adrienne Wyper

COVER PHOTO

—

Sailing yachts in Hunters Yard, Ludham,

near Great Yarmouth, Norfolk

© VisitEngland/Broads Authority/Julian Claxton

Published by

CONTISTA MEDIA

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash,

Southampton, SO31 9HP

01489 660680

contistamedia.co.uk

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.

CAN YOU REMEMBER the last time you

stepped foot on a sandy shore, wandered along

a countryside path with the scents of summer

bloom, or enjoyed fresh local produce cooked

for you to perfection in a beautiful setting?

It has felt like a long time to be deprived of the richness and

fulfilment travel brings - exploring new places, spending a night at

your favourite hotel, unwinding in a spa, or enjoying an afternoon

tea in a beautiful garden. While we might have forgotten how good

this all feels, our desire to travel has not been lost.

This issue is all about health, wellness and meaningful travel –

‘slow travel’ (as it has recently been dubbed). So, if you’re looking

for an unforgettable trip, to be enjoyed at your own pace, then we

hope you will find plenty of inspiration within our summer features.

Our top ten life-affirming Health Breaks, p86 are guaranteed

to reboot the body and mind, while our Best Tall Ship and Sailing

Adventures, p50 offer the ultimate active escapism.

The brand-new collection of curated National Parks experiences,

p32 are not to be missed, and our Top Eco-Attractions, p44

showcase the very best of our natural world.

If spending 48 Hours in Babbacombe, South Devon appeals, I

hope you will enjoy my recent memoir, p78, and if a historic town

is on your summer agenda, lace your boots up ready for a walk

around the picturesque Chester City Walls, p92.

If all this wanderlust is leaving you feeling thirsty, yet hungry for

more, Mead Bubbly from Bees, p18 and our Chef’s Table, round up of

the best gourmet dining experiences, p72 should hopefully hit-thespot

- leaving no excuses for an evening of epicurean-delights.

Hotels and destinations across the British Isles have never been

more ready to welcome us back - I am delighted to be setting off on

my British journeys again soon, and I hope you will be too - wishing

you a safe and magical, extraordinary summer!

@BritishTravelJournal

Jessica x

JESSICA WAY

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

–

@BritishTravelJournal

@BTravelJournal

SHORTLISTED

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

Fly direct

with Penzance

Helicopters

Time to be...

At the heart of the Isles of Scilly archipelago is the family-owned island of Tresco.

Discover time to be amidst subtropical gardens, a soul-reviving spa, waterfront

accommodation, island-inspired dining and deserted bays fringed by aquamarine

seas. Just 28 miles from the Cornish coast, it’s somewhere else altogether.

Book now to secure your preferred week and cottage for 2022.

TRESCO.CO.UK

Abbey Garden | Dining | Spa & Wellness | Cottages, Rooms & Apartments | Gallery & Boutique

CONTENTS


—

44

32

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS/MALCOLMSNELGROVE

JOTTINGS

09

TRAVEL NEWS

Our selection of the finest new staycation

packages, from safari park luxury lodges to the

latest five-star hotel in the centre of London, there’s

something new in the city, coast and countryside.

MEET THE MAKERS OF MEAD

18 BUBBLY FROM BEES

We’re going mad over mead this summer, made

from just two ingredients: water and honey… and

perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink.

HARBOUR HOTELS

24 Drift away with us while discovering more

about this exciting hotel brand's new Sleep Retreat

in Richmond and Beach Club in Salcombe - both

launching this summer.

FOR YOUR JOURNEY

100 Latest travel essentials and crossword.

FEATURES

32

NATIONAL PARKS EXPERIENCES

A brand-new collection of curated experiences

has launched this summer across England’s nine

iconic National Parks, from bushcraft to goat herding,

kayaking to night-time reserve walks.

TOP ECO-ATTRACTIONS

44 Be inspired and educated, as well as

entertained, by visiting our top ten UK projects

which showcase our natural world at the same time

as working to protect it.

THE BEST OF TALL SHIPS AND

50 SAILING ADVENTURES

From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the

open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the

definition of both freedom and excitement.

à


64

E D I T O R

L O V E S

Add a splash of retro chic to your

summer wardrobe with these

Rhodium framed sunglasses - part

of the new Silhouette collection, Sun

Lite, priced £260. #tryitwearitloveit

silhouette.com

The White Company's perfect

on-the-go essential for holidays

and weekends away, Spa

Restore Essentials Set, along

with a useful Spa Headband and

Waffle Bag to keep all the pieces

together. Refreshingly cool and

rejuvenating, it feels like walking

into a luxurious spa, priced £55.

thewhitecompany.com

78

DESTINATIONS

64

OUTDOOR DIPS

Our top outdoor pools for taking

the plunge this summer, from laps in fivestar

luxury, soaking up the skyline from a

city rooftop to reconnecting with nature in a

stylish swimming ‘pond’.

CHEF'S TABLE

72 Discover staycation dining with

our round up of the best gourmet at-home

dining options from Michelin chef catering to

curated menus delivered direct to your door.

48 HOURS IN BABBACOMBE

78 With rugged sandstone cliffs and

azure-blue waters, the coastal scenery

surrounding Cary Arms Hotel & Spa in

Babbacombe, South Devon, is beautiful

enough to rival the Mediterranean.

72

HEALTH BREAKS

88 Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind

and be pampered…all is possible, and at a

social distance, on these revitalising, lifeaffirming

breaks around the British Isles.

WALKING TOUR OF CHESTER

94 CITY WALLS

Now that we are able to wander around

Britain's towns again, visiting historic sites

and stopping somewhere picturesque for a

relaxing lunch, the walled city of Chester is

at the top of our list.

Subscription Offer

Subscribe to three issues of

British Travel Journal for just

£19 and receive the ultimate

getaway essential from Noble

Isle worth over £20, while

stocks last. (See more p30).

britishtraveljournal.com/

subscribe

Plus sign up to our e-newsletter

britishtraveljournal.com/newsletter

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

GREAT GIFT IDEAS

The best

birthday gift

for 2021?

Are you looking for a brilliant birthday

present idea?

W

ith the end of lockdown rapidly approaching,

staycations are finally back on the agenda with

Britain’s beautiful hotels ready to reopen their

doors. So, whether you’ve got a birthday coming up or you know

someone who does, there’s no better way to celebrate than with

the gift of Roomcard.

Roomcard is the digital gift card for the world’s 10,000 most

inspirational hotels, covering the very best of Britain and beyond.

Roomcard allows you to add your own customised wrapping

and personal greeting – whether you prefer a video, photo gallery,

spoken or written message. Schedule the delivery of Roomcard

at precisely your chosen time, and then, right on cue, it

will be delivered straight to the recipient’s phone. roomcard.com

TM

Stay, inspired.

Are you making the most

of your holiday home?

At Rural Retreats our team is dedicated to managing your holiday home with

the same care and attention you would, ensuring it fulfils its full potential.

With a range of tailored services to suit your needs, you can be as involved as

much as you like, knowing that you and your guests will be well looked after.

01386 898 658

newowners@ruralretreats.co.uk

ruralretreats.co.uk

LOOKING AHEAD...

TRAVEL NEWS

Reignite your passion for travel this summer with our selection of what's

new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the British Isles

PEAK DISTRICT

The Tawny

If you are looking for a unique, rural and eco-friendly

retreat for your next staycation then consider The

Tawny. This is, as they describe, 'a hotel like no other'.

Accommodation is private and rural, comprising of

wildwood huts, treehouses, romantic boathouses,

luxury retreats - and our personal favourite, the

Lookout - with freestanding bathtub and private deck

with an outdoor spa bath and shower. Could this be

the ultimate country escape we all need? Bathe outside

under starlit skies, enjoy the perfect picnic, share a

meal with gorgeous views of the transformed Consall

Gardens with stunning natural beauty all around - and,

should you need it, there's a fabulous restaurant, room

service, and heated outdoor pool on the estate too. ◆

thetawny.co.uk

Editor loves

EDINBURGH

Audio & Award

Scottish actor, Mark Bonnar, best known for his

roles as Duncan Hunter in Shetland, Bruno Jenkins in

Casualty, and DCC Mike Dryden in Line of Duty, is the

new voice behind The Royal Yacht Britannia's brilliant

audio tour commentary - available to all museum

visitors. Not only this - the 'outstanding attraction' has

just been awarded Best UK Attraction 2020 by Which?

Magazine - and we say, it's well deserved. ◆

royalyachtbritannia.co.uk


New hotels and restaurants

CHELSEA

The Apartments by 11

Cadogan Gardens

Following the recent launch of The Mayfair

Townhouse, Iconic Luxury Hotels (owners of

Chewton Glen, Cliveden House and The Lygon

Arms) have opened their doors to yet more

luxurious accommodation in the capital. The

Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens are in the

heart of Chelsea life. Knightsbridge, Harrods

and the Saatchi Gallery are all around the

corner, and just a stone’s throw away is

Chelsea’s bustling Sloane Square. Stay and

enjoy 11 Cadogan Gardens own Hans’ Bar &

Grill, nestled amongst the artisanal shops and

food suppliers of picturesque Pavilion Road.

Prices from £270 per night. ◆

11cadogangardens.com

BERKSHIRE

North Lodge, Coworth Park

Coworth Park - one of the three extraordinary

British hotels owned by the iconic Dorchester

collection (the other two being 45 Park Lane and

The Dorchester) is an idyllic 70-bedroom Mansion

House, yet nestled within its 240 acre grounds

there are more hidden treasures to discover.

The latest gem to be unveilled is North Lodge,

a delightfully cosy gatehouse cottage, and the

second in their collection of private signature

suites, alongside The Dower House - a Grade II

listed cottage built in 1775. North Lodge is set

amongst idyllic private gardens, and has been

beautifully restored with its own idyllic country

garden, three en-suite bedrooms, a roll-top

bath, gated entrance, state-of-the-art kitchen

and private chef. To elevate the experience, spa

therapists can even perform treatments in the

comfort of your suite. Pure bliss! ◆

dorchestercollection.com


SURREY

Vineyards of the Surrey Hills

One of the home counties is giving the French a run for their money

with a newly-formed collective of five vineyards set in an Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty, inviting you to try their English Wines.

surreyhillsvineyards.co.uk

VALE OF AYLESBURY

Fine dining at Waddesdon

The grounds to Waddesdon's Windmill Hill have been

opened to visitors for the first time, offering a new

award-winning dining experience. Pictured right,

these new dining domes, set between the cutting-edge

art and architecture, offer fine dining experiences

within a covid-safe bubble. You are also located high

on the hill, overlooking the Vale of Aylesbury - the

same spectacular view which first drew Ferdinand de

Rothschild to Waddesdon in 1874. You can now dine in

a location which has never been open to guests before,

enjoying fresh seasonal menus paired with delicious

cocktails and wines. Lunch, afternoon tea and dinner

sittings are available from 20 May-13 June. ◆

diningdomes.group/waddesdonwindmillhill

New whisky experience

SUTHERLAND

Highland home of Johnnie Walker

Located on Scotland’s North Coast 500 route through the world

famous Highlands, the previously named Clynelish Distillery experience

has been completely reimagined as 'world-beating, multi-sensory

and interactive'. There's also a brand new terrace bar (pictured left)

overlooking Brora’s rolling hills from which to enjoy a Scotch highball

or dram. Plus there is excitement building around the brand-new,

much-anticipated, Johnnie Walker Princes Street whisky visitor experience

opening in Edinburgh this summer too. We'll cheer Slàinte Mhath to that. ◆

malts.com/en-gb/tours


Family adventures

CHISWICK

Bring Into Being

Chiswick House & Gardens is a popular

family attraction - a Roman style Palladian

villa designed by the Third Earl of

Burlington and 65-acre Grade-1 listed,

award-winning Gardens, but now there's

another reason to visit. In a new direction,

the 18th century heritage site has launched

a creative artistic programme, Bring Into

Being (27 May - 31 October 2021), featuring

three site-specific artwork installations by

Turner-prize winning artist Mark Wallinger,

esteemed sound artist Peter Adjaye and

installation artist Jaimini Patel.

Prices Adults £11, Family £23.50. ◆

chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk

HERTFORDSHIRE

The Grove

Set in 300 acres of verdant Hertfordshire countryside, this ultimate

five-star retreat has been completely remastered. Following a twoyear

long refurbishment, all three of their restaurants, lobby and west

wing bedrooms have been completely transformed, re-emerging after

lockdown as a new hotel. Lovingly restored, The Grove is the former

home of the Earls of Clarendon, with a rich history dating back to

the 1500s. In addition to 215 luxurious guestrooms, The Grove has an

award-winning spa, championship golf course, an original Walled

Garden, heated outdoor pool and even boasts its own ‘beach'.

Nightly rates start from £370 for a West Wing Classic Room. ◆

thegrove.co.uk

COVENT GARDEN

The Art of Banksy

The world’s largest collection of privately owned Banksy art is now on view

in Earlham Street in a new exhibition until 20 November, having previously

travelled across the globe from Toronto to Melbourne. artofbanksy.co.uk

IMAGE © RICKARD MONÉUS


NATIONWIDE

The Ultimate Staycation Breakfast

Heading off on holiday? Delivered straight to your holiday

home, the Staycation Bundle contains everything you need for

a delicious, hearty breakfast, to include Dry Cured Back Bacon,

Cacklebean Mixed Chicken Eggs and British Piccolo Tomatoes.

The Staycation Bundle is priced £22.50, 44foods.com

SOUTH WALES

Zip World Tower

Zip World have launched a new site, Zip World

Tower, set in the iconic Rhigos mountain

range with stunning views that overlook the

beautiful Welsh landscape, including the

Brecon Beacons. The adventure hub is home

to Phoenix, the world’s fastest seated zip line,

Big Red, a mobile zip version for kids, and

Tower Coaster, a toboggan-style rollercoaster

(if you dare!). The site is situated at the old

Tower Colliery coal mining site - the oldest

continuously working deep coal mine in the

UK, prior to its closure in 2008 - and Zip World

Tower has been designed to create a lasting

legacy to its deep-rooted mining heritage. ◆

zipworld.co.uk/location/tower

You might also enjoy

WORCESTERSHIRE

Safari Park Animal Lodges

West Midland Safari Park have launched their long-awaited Safari

Lodges, welcoming guests to stay for the very first time at the luxury

overnight accommodation. Six of the lodges offer the only overnight

experience with elephants in the UK, whilst two more lodges offer

incredible views of the Park’s cheetahs , designed to give guests an

immersive and unforgettable overnight wildlife experience. Prices start

from £171 per adult per night and £147 per night for a child. ◆

safari-lodges.co.uk


We love

The Snuggy

If you're heading on a glamping trip, pod, log cabin or shepherd

hut style, where sitting around a fire pit in the evening and toasting

marshmallows is a must then we recommend adding a super soft

fleece Snuggy to your packing list. Available in five different colours,

priced £59.99, or for children £34.99, snuggy.shop

NORTH NORFOLK

Godwick Hall

'Schlamping' is the new term for glamping at Godwick Hall, with

the launch of their three stunning new luxurious shepherds huts.

Set in 100 acres of quintessential English countryside with sheep

dotted about the pastures and the lost medieval village of Godwick,

which is open to explore. Think oak wooden floors, butler sinks and

narrowboat wood burners, outdoor firepits and plenty of extra wood.

Just add a glass of fizz and marvel at the stars for the perfect ‘getting

away from it all’ experience. In the morning enjoy a continental or

bacon buttie breakfast delivered to the hut before setting out to

explore the Norfolk countryside and beautiful beaches. Shepherd's

Huts prices from £90/night minimum two night stay. ◆

godwickhall.co.uk

CORNWALL

Water's Edge

Who doesn’t want to be by the water’s edge

right now? With more of us searching for

properties to accommodate large family

groups, this wonderful five bedroom retreat

close to the sea in Mawgan Porth must fill you

with multi-generation travelust. Not only is it

a short stroll from the beach, it’s also just steps

from the South West Coastal Path – perfect for

combining fitness with fabulous views. It is also

just around the corner from The Scarlett, which

offers amazing spa treatments and a wonderful

swimming pool as well as incredible meals.

Prices from £1,719 for a long weekend or

mid week break. ◆

boutique-retreats.co.uk



PICCADILLY

The Dilly

Have you missed dancing? The Dilly is not only the latest five-star hotel

to open in the centre of London, but the first to offer its own dedicated

dance studio – Inspiration 2 Dance. For private groups and family

lessons, guests are invited to learn Smooth, Latin and/or Ballroom from

world-class teachers. Bookable via the website or the hotel’s concierge.

Room rates start from £219, thedillylondon.com

SHROPSHIRE

Sham Castle

Searching for a stay with the wow factor?

Built in 1780, this beautiful Grade II* listed

folly boasts far reaching, panoramic and

spectacular views across rolling countryside to

the Wrekin and has it in droves. Its enviable,

elevated position on top of a rock knoll

overlooks a lake and 1.75 acres of enclosed

gardens. Enjoy sun loungers and fruit trees -

when the fruit is ripe you are welcome to pick

what you want. Sham Castle is the perfect

romantic escape - needless to say, you could

lose yourselves here for days.

Sleeps four guests, prices from £867 for a 3-night

stay with welcome hamper included. ◆

ruralretreats.co.uk

You might also enjoy

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Horwood House

For those looking for a touch of rural luxury, stunning Grade II listed country

house hotel Horwood House is just the ticket. Steeped in history and set

deep within the idyllic Buckinghamshire countryside, the hotel has reopened

following an extensive £5.5 million refurbishment of its 165 bedrooms, lounge

areas, 38 acres of landscaped gardens and new restaurants. It has launched

a series of new staycation packages, such as Picnic in the Park, which includes

an overnight stay, breakfast, dinner, picnic afternoon tea for you to enjoy al

fresco – sandwiches with a side of nature. Priced at £189 for two people. ◆

horwoodhouse.co.uk



MEET THE MAKERS OF...

MEAD

BUBBLY FROM BEES

Perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink, mead is

made from just two ingredients: water and honey…

Words | Adrienne Wyper

RECORDS SHOW THAT mead was made as long ago as

8,000BC, and some sources believe it may have originally

occurred naturally, when honey and rainwater mixed in

the hollow of a tree and fermented, later to be spotted and

sampled by curious humans.

Since then, production techniques have become more sophisticated,

and yeast is added, to supplement the natural yeasts in the

atmosphere. Simple yet versatile, mead can vary widely, from deep

caramel to pale lemon in colour, from dry to sweet, still or sparkling.

And its alcohol content can range from around four per cent, on a

par with beer, up to 20%, similar to a fortified wine.

Mead made from more than honey and water has several different

names: with added herbs or spices it’s metheglin; with fruit such

as cherries or blackberries, which helped to preserve the harvest in

past times, it’s melomel, or cyser if apple is added; and pyment, with

grape juice. Special honeys, such as orange blossom or heather, can

influence the taste of the finished product.

With all this natural variation, there’s a mead to suit all tastes and

à


“

New meadmakers position the world’s

oldest drink as a contemporary choice, a

traditional drink brought up to date, in the

same way as craft beer

”

all drinking occasions. Many factors inspire a thirst for mead: whether

it’s a desire for local produce with a sense of terroir (mead is made all

over the UK), an appreciation of the work of bees and beekeepers, a

taste for a natural product, a taste for heritage, or simply the urge to try

something new to you.

And it’s as varied and versatile as wine. Rod Marsh, who runs the

Cider Barn at Middle Farm (middlefarm.com), a fun-packed working

family farm near the South Downs in East Sussex, which sells 92 bottled

and 18 draught meads, says: “one could readily fashion a meal with a

mead for each course, followed by mead liqueur, and even a distilled

mead nightcap!”

He has seen the drink’s popularity rise in recent years: “When we

started selling mead the only customers were local white witch covens

and re-enactment societies. It has definitely gone mainstream over the

last 10 years. Growing public awareness of the plight of bees worldwide

and a desperate need to find some national identity not associated with

empire have both played a part. The historical association of it being

widely renowned as an aphrodisiac has also, no doubt, had some effect.”

For most people, mead may still be associated with mythical, mistsof-time

images of Vikings and mediaeval monks – or even Game of

Thrones – but new meadmakers position the world’s oldest drink as a

contemporary choice, a traditional drink brought up to date, in the same

way as craft beer.

One of the crop of contemporary meadmakers is Gosnells of London

Meadery (gosnells.co.uk), whose base in Peckham, south London,

couldn’t be further from the flowery meadows that may come to mind

when imagining mead-making. The company has a range of alestrength

canned meads (4%), with innovative limited editions, such as

coffee or blueberry and plantain, along with more traditional bottled

meads. Founder Tom Gosnell says: “Our intention is to create elegant

meads, more akin to sparkling wines or artisan ciders. They are lighter in

colour than most high-alcohol meads, sparkling, fresh and vibrant. They

show the subtlety of honey.”


à


The company, founded in 2013, puts a lot of effort into

nurturing their natural raw material. “Gosnells’ postcode

meads do demonstrate the trees, bushes and flowers in

different areas of London and its surrounds. They are massively

different from each other,” says Tom. “There is no added

sugar (as in Champagne), and no need for balancing acids

(as in wine), but mead is reliant on our populations of bees –

so we are working on providing them with nectar all through

the year.” To this end, the company has recently opened a

‘mead garden’, with pollinating plants recommended by the

Bumblebee Conservation Trust and London apiarists, and

educational materials for visitors to help them be kind to

pollinators. Embracing modern ways of reaching its market, the

company holds monthly online tastings.


And if mead strikes you as relatively expensive,

consider the incredible industry required to produce its

main ingredient. Mead is around three parts water to

one part honey, and a bee needs to gather nectar from

two million flowers to make one pound of honey. To

reach all those flowers, she flies 90,000 miles, three

times round the world.

On cost, Rod cautions: “If you can buy a bottle

of mead for under a tenner it is almost definitely a

pyment, ie mixed with grape juice – a far cheaper

commodity than honey.”

As a man who knows his mead, Rod rates

the following producers, as well as Gosnells.

Baldur Mead by the Lancashire Mead Company

(lancashiremeadcompany.co.uk), fermented

out to dryness in the traditional manner. In the

Scottish Highlands Christopher Mullins, an Iraq and

Afghanistan veteran, at The Rookery Craft Mead

(rookery.scot), fashions clean, natural and complex

flavours from foraged ingredients including spruce,

silver birch, crab apple, plum, sloe, lavender, pear,

mint and ginger, creating seasonal ‘midwinter’ and

‘midsummer’ brews, and even sells Viking-style

drinking horns. In Cornwall there’s Ninemaidens

“

If you can buy a bottle of mead

for under a tenner it is almost

definitely a pyment, ie mixed

with grape juice – a far cheaper

commodity than honey

”

Mead (ninemaidensmead.co.uk) with fruit, spiced

and 40% distilled options. In Wales there’s Mountain

Mead (mountainmead.co.uk), who suggest mixing

mead with tonic or making a meady Kir royale

by topping up their Telor y Coed medium-sweet

mead with Champagne, and Wye Valley Meadery

(wyevalleymeadery.co.uk), who apply modern

brewing techniques to the most ancient beverage.

In Rod’s opinion, the best examples of traditional

mead are Dr Hugh Howard Tripp’s Pennard Vineyard

Mead (12%; pennardorganicwines.co.uk/shop.asp)

from Somerset, and Christopher Mullins’s Rookery

Mead (17%), with the best liqueur mead “by far”

Beeble (30%; beeble.buzz) from North Wiltshire

made by Ellie Berry (beekeeper) and Matthew Brauer

(bookkeeper) and fortified with fine Scotch whisky.

Whether it’s a traditional true mead, or one with a

21st-century twist, mead is creating a bit of a buzz….


LUXURY ESCAPE...

HARBOUR

HOTELS

DRIFT AWAY

Perfectly positioned in some of the UK's most desirable

destinations, exciting evolving hotel brand, Harbour Hotels, launches

a Sleep Retreat in Richmond and Harbour Beach Club in

Salcombe this summer, adding to its already impressive collection

of luxury hotels. British Travel Journal settles in for the night…

Words | Emma Johnson

IF YOU HAVE NOT YET heard of Harbour Hotels it could be that you have

not been booking into the right hotels – or like most of us, due to the

pandemic, any hotels at all. Yet, in all the turmoil of the past year, one silver

lining for this impressive British business, has been their ability to re-emerge,

with yet more exciting stylish properties and experiences to welcome back their

enthusiastic and eager guests. Specialists in luxury, boutique retreats, with

hotels in the heart of our finest towns, coastlines and cities, Harbour Hotels offer

stylish stays in some of the most stunning and iconic locations, from seafronts

to harbours, to royal parks and historic manor houses on country estates. There

are over 15 Harbour Hotels across the UK, and a further two launching this year;

Richmond Harbour’s new Sleep Retreat and the Harbour Beach Club, a stylish

waterfront hotel and resort on South Sands Beach in Salcombe.

à


A brand staple in the Harbour Hotels

collection are their costal properties,

which make for the perfect summer

retreat - we love The Brighton Harbour

Hotel, situated in a restored Regency

period building, right on Brighton’s iconic

and lively seafront.

In Cornwall, their hotel in Fowey is just

steps from the beach with picture-perfect

views over Fowey’s estuary; while The

Padstow Harbour Hotel is perched above

the charismatic fishing port, in a stunning

Victorian mansion.

Newly-opened this year, we’re also really

excited about the Harbour Beach Club,

with a laid-back feel, luxury rooms and

spa, wide outdoor terraces and a fantastic

beach bar, it looks set to become a key

destination for staycationing this summer.

Perhaps the most exciting of them all

however, and a completely new concept

for the hotel brand, is the forwardthinking

magnificently restored 18th

century Richmond Harbour Hotel & Spa,

situated on top of Richmond Hill, home to

the only luxury spa in Richmond and their

newly launched break, the Sleep Retreat.

As a hotel brand which has always put

well-being first, the launch of Richmond

Harbour Sleep Retreat is no surprise.

Getting a good night’s rest can be

Pictured

previous

spread: Fowey

Harbour Hotel

Pictured

left-right:

Richmond

Harbour Hotel;

Fowey

Harbour Hotel

restaurant; and

Padstow

Harbour Hotel

“

Richmond Harbour & Spa is a haven of

peace and tranquillity, offering a wellness

journey like no other, providing guests

from all over the world with an urban

sanctuary to switch off and recharge

”

hard enough at the best of times, topped off with the

pandemic to cope with too, The White Company Sleep

Retreat Spa Break could not sound more tempting.

Perfectly situated next to Richmond Park and just

moments from the river, the hotel is within easy strolling

distance of Richmond Village and the town centre with

its many shops and restaurants. The hotel has also

introduced a range of outdoor activities designed to

improve guests’ physical and mental wellbeing – from

daily guided meditation walks to running sessions,

outdoor bootcamps and nature trails.


Michael Warren, Managing Director of

Harbour Hotels, says: “Richmond Harbour Hotel

& Spa is a haven of peace and tranquillity,

offering a wellness journey like no other,

providing guests from all over the world

with an urban sanctuary to switch off and

recharge.”

It’s a truism that things always look better

in the morning, and that’s because sleep is so

incredibly important for both our health and

our happiness. We know now, more than ever,

how vital a good night’s sleep is - not only

for our bodies, but also our minds. When we

sleep, while our bodies rest and rejuvenate, our

minds also relax and our stresses melt away.

And, as you slip between the crisp Egyptian

cotton sheets at the Richmond Harbour Hotel &

Spa, soothed by the scents of sleep-inducing

candle and a soothing White Company pillow

à


“

Having had the delight of

staying in many of the Harbour

Hotels it has been wonderful

to see how stylish and different

each hotel is.

”

mist, you’ll know that a good night’s sleep is

finally ahead of you. After a year of considerable

challenges, making a commitment to improving

your sleep is time well spent.

Start with an enlivening early morning

yoga class followed by a wonderful hour-long

‘Drift Away’ massage, using a relaxing blend

of essential oils such as patchouli, geranium,

frankincense, myrrh, dill seed and orange.

Later on, you can soak away any worries

in the world-class HarSPA - a wellness oasis

offering much-needed tranquillity and respite

from the whirl of city life, with a sauna, steam

room, a heated 20-metre swimming pool,

and – our favourite – a secluded outdoor Zen

garden furnished with Nordic-inspired sofas and

armchairs – and bubbling Scandinavian hot tubs

to dip in.

After a healthy dinner of kale tagliatelle with

goat’s cheese or a vegan burger with beetroot and

chickpeas in The Gate restaurant, you can retire to

your room, greeted by The White Company’s Sleep

Collection gift box, which includes a Sleep Candle,

Calming Bath Soak, a Nourishing Body Cream,

a Soothing Pillow Mist and a Fluffy Eye Mask.

Drifting off to the scents of lavender, restorative

clary sage and soothing chamomile, and sipping

a warm cup of herbal tea, your mind gets quiet,

gently resting, ready for sleep.

Quintessentially British brand, The White

Company, has been in partnership with Harbour

Hotels since 2013 offering their fabulous ‘Flowers’

toiletries range in all the hotels.

“It’s truly the perfect partnership of two very

British brands, and our collaboration on the Sleep

Retreat brings together all these values of luxury

and wellbeing in the perfect self-care package",

explains The White Company’s Janie Martin.

"Having had the delight of staying in many of

the Harbour Hotels it has been wonderful to see

how stylish and different each hotel is.

Plus, their exceptional staff makes your stay

even more enjoyable.”

Pictured above:

Bathroom

at Salcombe

Harbour

Hotel & Spa;

Bedroom

at Brighton

Harbour

Hotel & Spa.

Pictured left:

Bathroom at

Fowey Harbour

Hotel featuring

The White

Company

toiletries


SUBSCRIBE TO

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL...

AND RECEIVE THE ULTIMATE GETAWAY ESSENTIAL FROM

NOBLE ISLE WORTH OVER £20 - ALL FOR JUST £19!

Luxury

free gift

WORTH OVER

£20!

Return the form opposite or subscribe online britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe

SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

SPRING 2021 | ISSUE 08

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

WANDERLUST

DESTINATIONS

HOW TO MAKE YOUR NEXT

HOLIDAY EXTRA SPECIAL

+OVER 30 NEW

HOTELS AND

ATTRACTIONS

TO VISIT AFTER

LOCKDOWN

DELIVERED...

STRAIGHT

TO YOUR DOOR...

SO YOU WILL NEVER MISS

ANOTHER ISSUE


BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

BEST SAILING

ADVENTURES



ACTIVE ESCAPISM

NATIONAL TRUST

EXPERIENCES





48 MAGICAL HOURS IN

TRESCO AND BRYHER


BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

IDYLLIC SUMMER ISLANDS 2021 | ISSUE BLESSED

09

WITH EXOTIC PLANTS,

TRANSLUCENT SEAS AND

ENDLESS AMOUNTS

BEST OF GOLDEN SAILING SAND

ADVENTURES


ACTIVE ESCAPISM

NATIONAL TRUST

EXPERIENCES




£6.75





£6.75

I WOULD LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE TO BRITISH

TRAVEL JOURNAL STARTING WITH

CURRENT ISSUE SUMMER 2021

NEXT ISSUE AUTUMN/WINTER 2021

1 YEAR £19 2 YEARS £35

POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK


I WOULD LIKE A NON-RENEWING SUBSCRIPTION:


POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK


BILLING ADDRESS

NAME

ADDRESS

POST CODE

EMAIL

POSTAL ADDRESS IS SAME AS BILLING ADDRESS

I WOULD LIKE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO BE SENT

TO THE FOLLOWING ADDRESS

NAME

ADDRESS

POST CODE

EMAIL


OR WHY NOT SUBSCRIBE AS A

GIFT FOR SOMEONE SPECIAL?

Non-renewing gift subscriptions also available

£6.75

#

VISA VISA DEBIT MASTERCARD AMEX

CHEQUE (payee Contista Media Ltd) ISSUE NO. (AMEX)

CARD NO.

CSV

EXPIRY DATE M M Y Y

SIGNATURE

DATE D D M M Y Y

Return to: Contista Media Ltd, Mitchell House,

Brook Avenue, Warsash, Hampshire, SO31 9HP

* Ts & Cs: Limited time only, while stocks last. Gift is for UK subscriptions only.

Contista Media is compliant with GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations)

Your subscriptions data is only used for the purpose of processing your

subscription. Your email address will only be used in order to contact you

regarding renewing your subscription. We will not pass your details on.

10 OF THE BEST

NATIONAL

PARK

EXPERIENCES

From bushcraft to goat

herding, kayaking to

night-time reserve walks,

make this a summer to

remember with these

fabulous new experiences

from our National Parks

Words | Jessica Way

Loch Lomond

& The Trossachs

Cairngorms

Northumberland

ABRAND-NEW COLLECTION

of curated experiences

has launched this summer

across England’s nine iconic

National Parks - with more planned for

Scotland and Wales soon. There are

currently over 80 incredible adventures,

being offered by passionate people who

want to share their love of nature and

the outdoors. If you’re a foodie, history

buff, landscape lover or wildlife fan,

we hope you enjoy our pick of the best

here. To find out more and to book any

of the experiences visit the new booking

website: nationalparks.uk/experiences.

Lake District

Yorkshire Dales

Peak District

Snowdonia

Pembrokeshire

Coast

Brecon Beacons

Exmoor

Dartmoor

North York Moors

Broads

South Downs

New Forest


HIDDEN GEM

—

Wistman's Wood:

This enchanting wood

seems to belong in a

fairy tale. Home to a

carpet of deep green

moss underfoot and

finger-like branches

of dwarf oak trees and

corkscrew branches

above, the fascinating

Wistman’s Wood is one

of only three remote,

high-altitude oak woods

in Dartmoor

Dartmoor National Park

—

From vast wild moorlands to

imposing rock formations and river

valleys that cut deep through the

landscape, Dartmoor National Park

offers a mix of relaxing surroundings

and active adventures. Tackle the

hills on two wheels, amble along

miles of walking routes or come

face-to-face with some of the

region’s rare wildlife

1

GEMS OF DARTMOOR PHOTOGRAPHY

This photography workshop will give you the

fundamentals of great photography. Vivid colours

and atmospheric sunlight go hand-in-hand so that the

moor is ablaze with an astonishing vibrancy, perfect for

creating dramatic photographs. Visit destinations that

are off the beaten track and learn how to frame and

capture stunning images under the expert guidance of

a local photographer. Learn how to use your camera or

phone to make the most of a location and the light to

create stunning photography. Explore the history and

mysteries of the subjects of your photography and learn

about the conservation of the area too. 8 hours.

Priced from £295.

à


HIDDEN GEM

—

Long Man of Wilmington:

Standing as the tallest

chalk figure in the

UK, the Long Man

of Wilmington is an

interesting highlight

along the South Downs.

With a past that is

riddled with mystery,

this historic site is

surrounded by lush green

countryside, gentle hills

and postcard-perfect

villages – ideal for a

stress-busting stroll

in southern England’s

countryside

South Downs National Park

—

Discover the world-famous white cliffs, rolling

green hills, ancient woodland, rich wetlands

and lowland heaths. Stretching across the south

of England, the South Downs National Park –

with its long distance paths, cycle routes and rare

wildlife – is a real haven for outdoor enthusiasts

and culture seekers. Get inspired by the dramatic

cliffs and picturesque villages found throughout

the National Park

2

BAIT TO PLATE FLY FISHING,

SOUTH DOWNS

Start with a two-hour fly-fishing taster experience

at Chalk Springs Trout Fishery nestled on the

edge of the historic market town of Arundel in

the South Downs. Then, with fish in hand - if you

don't catch one yourself one trout per person

is provided - it’s over to Fins & Forks HQ for a

hands-on session at the smokehouse kitchen.

Prepare and cure your catch for the smoker

choosing one of the signature cure flavourings.

Your cold smoked trout will be posted to you after

the session– perfect for brunch and sharing your

story about the one that did not get away!

Priced from £99


Exmoor National Park

—

With a unique mosaic of expansive moorlands,

woodland valleys, rolling hills and dramatic coastline,

Exmoor National Park is a firm favourite among

walkers. Visitors can keep an eye out for Exmoor ponies

and red deer by day and marvel at the stars by night, as

they explore this ancient and wild landscape

3WILD FORAGING,

EXMOOR

Learn about how your ancestors survived.

This introduction to wild foraging with botanist

Liz Cwilewicz will help you learn how to

confidently identify and harvest up to 15 wild

edibles. Deliver into the history and culture of

Exmoor National Park and discover the folklore

and medicinal uses behind these edibles.

2 hours, priced from £10

HIDDEN GEM

—

Cow Castle: Found high

on Exmoor, Cow Castle

is an impressive Iron Age

fort nestled alongside

the soothing River Barle

valley. But history is not

all this hidden gem has

to offer, for beneath the

ancient fort is a wild

landscape, babbling

river and even a deep

pool, a secluded spot for

wild swimming. Those

planning an adventure

here should note that

this site can only be

found on foot, lying two

miles from the small

village of Simonsbath


Peak District

—

From breathtaking views of stunning limestone valleys

and rugged gritstone landscapes to magnificent stately

homes, the Peak District has a contrasting range of

natural beauty. Highlights include Edale’s Kinder

Scout and the Castleton caves, the only place in the

world where the semi-precious mineral Blue John

is mined. The Peak District was also the UK’s first

National Park, founded in 1951

4

MOUNTAIN HARES DISCOVERY

WALK, PEAK DISTRICT

The highest points in the Peak District are the

only places in England where you can still find

Mountain Hares. Most people will never see

them when out walking but this guide has a

100% success rate. The walk starts from the

Snake Pass road, between Glossop and Sheffield.

After a gradual climb of around 200m, you’ll

leave the Pennine Way path navigating across

the complex moorland terrain to some of the

best locations to see Mountain Hares in their

natural habitat. There’s the chance to see shorteared

owls, golden plover, red grouse, kestrels

and learn about the ecology and restoration

of these amazing bog and moorland habitats.

After observing the hares, you’ll head to the

incredible and moving location of the site of the

B29 Superfortress "Over Exposed" plane crash. A

camera with a long lens or zoom and binoculars

are worth taking but if you don’t have the gear

don’t worry – the guide will send you a set of

digital photos taken on the day.

Priced from £38 per person

HIDDEN GEM

—

Thor’s Cave, Wetton: Hidden away

behind the Staffordshire village of

Wetton in the Peak District, Thor’s

Cave is a fascinating geological

finale to a relaxing countryside

walk. After strolling along a quaint

country path, visitors will see the

wonderful arched mouth emerge in

the distance. Reached by a stepped

path, the natural limestone cavern

has an inviting entrance that leads to

a space that’s occupation dates back

to the Stone Age. As well as exploring

this ancient habitation space, visitors

will be treated to stunning views of

the valley below to boot!


5

CLIMBING THROUGH HISTORY,

PEAK DISTRICT

Try climbing, abseiling and scrambling for the

first time or develop existing skills with local

experts. The history of the Peak District National

Park is etched in the unique gritstone crags that

line the valley edges. This world-famous rock,

besides being an integral part of the area’s

industrial heritage, has formed the favoured

vertical playground for generations of climbers

and scramblers. Follow in their footsteps by

climbing, scrambling and abseiling under the

expert guidance of a local instructor. Learn about

the history and geology, flora and fauna of this

unique area.

Priced from £85

à


HIDDEN GEM

—

Crackpot Hall: For epic

scenery with a side of

local history, walk to

the fascinating ruins of

Crackpot Hall. Tucked

away at the foot of rolling

hills, Crackpot Hall is the

ruins of an 18th century

smallholding, abandoned

in 1953. There are

staggering views in

several directions, this

site overlooks Swinner

Gill, where sweeping

valleys were once home

to a thriving lead mining

industry, the remains of

which can still be seen

today.

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN//THOMAS HEATON

The Yorkshire Dales National Park

—

Home to the Three Peaks of Pen-y-ghent,

Whernside and Ingleborough, The Yorkshire

Dales National Park is an area known

for its rich farming heritage, lush heather

moors, labyrinth of caves, rolling valleys

embellished with traditional field barns and

drystone walls – giving visitors a look into

Britain’s countryside, both past and present.

6RECONNECTING WITH NATURE,

YORKSHIRE DALES

Immerse yourself in the tranquil Yorkshire

Dales landscape and enjoy a full exploration

of fascinating and beautiful Gunnerside Gill in

Swaledale. You’ll get a feel for how different this

area must have been 200 years ago when it was

bustling with people and machinery.

Experience and understand more about how

nature has slowly been reclaiming the landscape

and plans for future nature recovery in the area.

As well as enjoying a picnic with local delicacies

and dipping your toes in the beck, the day

includes a visit to a 200-year-old working smithy

and a drink in the local pub.

7 hours, priced from £35 per person


Northumberland National Park

—

Ancient monuments, rolling moorland and the uplands

of the Cheviot Hills make Northumberland National

Park – Europe’s largest International Dark Sky Park – as

tranquil as the stars are bright! The remote heathercovered

hills, iconic Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage

Site and unspoilt historic islands mean it’s a must for

scenery-centric bucket lists.

7PATROL HADRIAN’S WALL,

NORTHUMBERLAND

Venture into ‘bandit country’ where Romans

dared to march as you patrol the northern

frontier with a National Park Ranger. Start out

from The Sill National Landscape Discovery

Centre where you’ll pick up an E-mountain

bike. You’ll cycle together along the most

iconic section of Hadrian’s Wall including an

off-road section along an ancient byway with

outstanding views. As you explore quiet country

lanes and byways you’ll be immersed in tales

of how Hadrian’s Wall was made and enjoy a

flavour of what life was like.

Priced from £30.

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/YIN SUN PHOTOGRAPHY

HIDDEN GEM

—

Hareshaw Linn,

Bellingham: Dream of

walking through the

charming woodland,

crossing quaint bridges

and marvelling at the

deep green waterfall

at Northumberland’s

Hareshaw Linn. A

secluded spot brimming

with flora and fauna,

fans of the great

outdoors can spot rare

ferns and lichen, as well

as red squirrels and

wood warblers.

à


‘wandermust’

WHICH ONE’S ON YOUR

‘WANDERMUST’

LIST?

An eclectic collection of unique properties, with personalities as distinctly individual as our guests.

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE | CHEWTON GLEN | CLIVEDEN HOUSE | THE LYGON ARMS | 11 CADOGAN GARDENS

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/TOMO BREJC

The Lake District National Park

—

The Lake District is home to

awe-inspiring landscapes, high fells,

deep glacial lakes and quaint rural

villages. Now a World Heritage Site,

the rugged yet beautiful National

Park has the highest mountains in

England, the largest being Scafell

Pike, and is one of Britain’s most

scenic spots in any season.

HIDDEN GEM

—

Ennerdale Water: Those

longing to experience

utter tranquillity have

hit the jackpot, as

Ennerdale Water is the

National Park’s most

remote lake. Offering a

peaceful slice of Britain’s

vast countryside, those

planning on visiting

Ennerdale can expect

crystal-clear waters,

wonderful forest walks

and outstanding views

of the surrounding

hilly landscape. This

Lake District secret

is so remote that it

cannot be reached by

road, although active

adventurers can hop

on a bike and enjoy

the 10-mile cycle path

that connects it to

Whitehaven.

8NIGHT TIME ADVENTURE,

LAKE DISTRICT

The natural world changes at night

as different animals emerge and new

noises are heard. You’ll get kitted out

with binoculars, night-vison equipment

and bat detectors so that you can get

a really good look at how nocturnal

creatures make the world their own once

the sun goes down. Finish up around

an open fire with a bowl of something

warm and delicious.


à


9

FOSSILS, FORAGE & FEAST,

NORTH YORK MOORS

Join our experienced leaders to explore a hidden

cove such as Boggle Hole or Runswick Bay on the

North York Moors Heritage Coast. We’ll help you

to find the secret creatures hiding in rock pools,

to discover Jurassic fossils, forage for seashore

snacks, and then to cook and eat some of the food

you’ve found, which is extra tasty when cooked

on an open beach fire! Depending on the wishes

of the group the experience can include hunting

for Jurassic fossils from 200 million years ago,

including dinosaur footprints and the worldfamous

ammonites and Whitby Jet and exploring

the rock pools and rocky shoreline to meet the

animals and plants that live there. Some of these

(seaweed, shell fish, crabs and lobsters) we will

forage to provide a beach cooked meal and

depending on the time of year/day, it may also be

possible to add in an evening of stargazing.

Priced from £45

North York Moors National Park

—

A place of extraordinary heritage with

countryside to match, the North York Moors

have rolling hills, deep wooded dales,

captivating coasts, ancient abbeys, tumbling

streams and timeless villages – this is a

National Park mixing both unexpected and

quintessential beauty. There is also a heritage

railway system, part of the National Parks

Experience Collection.

HIDDEN GEM

—

Hayburn Wyke: Found

along the Cleveland Way

National Trail, hidden

beyond deer-dwelling

woodland, the secret

cove of Hayburn Wyke

offers a pebbled

paradise, home to a

host of shallow rock

pools at the foot of

dramatic cliffs. A place

to explore from both

above and below, those

longing for a relaxing

coastal walk can dream

of strolling along the

clifftops, discovering

an old railway line and

wandering through

ancient woodlands.


HIDDEN GEM

—

Winterton-On-Sea:

Nestled between

sweeping sandy beaches

and the natural beauty

of the Norfolk Broads,

Winterton-On-Sea is

a picturesque British

seaside village ideal

for those longing for a

taste of the quiet life.

Lighthouses, traditional

thatched cottages and

inviting sand dunes

pepper the area, as well

as a 14th century historic

church whose tower is

sometimes open to the

public, for sweeping

panoramic views of the

lowland landscape.

Norfolk Broads National Park

—

A spot known for its idyllic and

vast waterways and some of our

rarest wildlife. Along the 200km

of waterways and between the

vast reed beds, visitors will find

majestic windmills and ancient

monasteries. They may also spy

the otters, swallowtail butterflies,

kingfishers and seals that call this

area home.

10

NATURE KAYAK ADVENTURE, BROADS

This fun and serene activity will take you on a journey through

the usually hard to reach areas of some of the Broads National

Park. You can admire some of the best nature has to offer

and discover Hickling Broad – one of the jewels – with highly

experienced guides. You’ll be met at the launch point with

your kayak and all other safety equipment needed, ready

to be transported out onto the water for this amazing miniadventure.

Using stable and easy to paddle sit-in style double

or single kayaks (depending on group size) there will be every

opportunity for you to see/hear Marsh Harrier, Bearded Tits,

Reed Buntings and Warblers, Avocets and perhaps Bittern,

Otter, Water Voles and more!




SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL...

TOP ECO

ATTRACTIONS

Be inspired and educated, as well as entertained, by

visiting projects which showcase our natural world at

the same time as working to protect it

Words | Helen Holmes

I

T’S BEEN A SURREAL and difficult twelve months. Aside from everything

else, the pandemic has demonstrated how quickly normal life can be turned

upside down. This kind of crisis could just as easily be caused by climate

change as by a health emergency, and the need to protect our planet’s

environment, and with it our own human lives, feels more vital than ever.

As life gradually heads back to something more like normality, we will, of

course, want to get out and about again, and maybe make up for lost time in

the process. Beautiful natural environments are particularly appealing when

we’ve been stuck inside, and Britain has many to offer. We hopefully already

understand that we need to tread lightly when travelling – tourism can easily

destroy a beauty spot if we’re not careful. But we can go one step further than

treading lightly – by visiting, and in the process supporting, places which are

actively seeking to conserve the environment.

We’ve talked to some of our best sustainable attractions about the important

work they’re doing – as well as the beautiful and restorative experiences that

visitors will find to lift their spirits this summer.

à


THE CENTRE FOR

ALTERNATIVE TECHNOLOGY

Sited in the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere

Reserve, on the edge of Snowdonia

National Park, the Centre for

Alternative Technology combines

beautiful organic gardens and

sustainably managed woodlands with

experimental green buildings and

renewable energy systems – a visit is

both an educational and a restorative

experience.

“CAT is probably best known as

a visitor centre,” says John Challen,

Head of the Eco Centre, “but it’s much

more than that. We run postgraduate

degrees in a wide range of topics

relating to sustainability; our Zero

Carbon Britain Hub and Innovation

Lab work with local authorities,

businesses and community groups;

and we have short courses and online

events running all year round.”

From May this year CAT will be

running new nature experiences at

the centre, including gardening for

wildlife, and moth and bat nights.

These are bookable in advance. Early

summer is also the perfect time to

explore gardens in bloom, the buzzing

of nature, and the spectacular views

that surround the centre.

“We inspire, inform, and enable

people to play their part in creating a

sustainable future for all humanity,”

explains John. “A visit to CAT can

really give a sense of hope for the

future – seeing ways of living that allow

people and nature to thrive together is

a real inspiration.”

cat.org.uk


IMAGES © ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW/LORNE GILL/KEITH MORRIS

STAY NEARBY

Eco Retreats: A few minutes from CAT,

five luxury yurts are spread over 50

acres. Each is set in a secluded area,

away from other guests, and each has

its own outdoor wood-fired bath and

facilities for outdoor fires, as well as a

private eco toilet and shower block.

ecoretreats.co.uk

Living Room Treehouses: Created by

local artisans from local sustainable

wood, the treehouses are built high

in the forest canopy of an ancient

woodland. They have solar-powered

hot showers, as well as running water

from purified local springs.

living-room.co

KEW GARDENS

The Royal Botanical Gardens at

Kew are a 320-acre UNESCO World

Heritage Site, and home to the largest

collection of living plants in the world.

Kew’s world-renowned glasshouses

showcase species from all over the

globe, and are vital for Kew’s scientific

work, protecting endangered plants.

“Over the past year in particular,

we have all come to understand

the importance of nature to our

wellbeing,” says Rachel Purdon,

Head of Sustainability at Kew.

“Visitors to Kew can immerse

themselves in the beauty of their

surroundings, and those seeking to

learn more about plants will find a

wealth of diversity to explore.”

Spring is a magical time to visit the

gardens, with a succession of spring

bulbs at their very best – from carpets

of crocus on the Great Lawn to

swathes of daffodils along the Great

Broad Walk Borders. For blossom

fans, there are 161 cherry trees

waiting to burst into bloom, and the

garden is also home to magnificent

magnolias and unique rhododendron

hybrids. Visitors to Kew are not only

treated to a stunning collection of

rare and impressive plants, they’re

also supporting vital work to protect

the planet’s flora. “RBG Kew strives

for a world where plants and

fungi are understood, valued and

protected,” says Rachel.

kew.org

STAY NEARBY

Birch: Just north of London, Birch is a

luxury hotel with an eco philosophy.

As well as good food and a restful

environment, it offers activities which

range from pottery and art to baking and

gardening. There is also a wellness space,

and a new 25-metre lido opening in May!

birchcommunity.com

Heckfield Place: Heading south west out

of London, Heckfield Place is a 50 minute

drive from Kew. This grand Georgian

building is set in a secluded estate

containing woodlands and meadows.

Food served in the restaurant comes

from the estate’s own home farm, kitchen

gardens and orchard, and the spa offers

all natural treatments.

heckfieldplace.com


FINDHORN FOUNDATION

Perched near the coast in the north of

Scotland, Findhorn is an ecovillage,

and also a centre for experiential

workshops, conferences and events.

“We work from the broadest sense of

an environmental perspective,” says

Janet Limb, who runs the foundation’s

public relations. “The environment

is not separate from us, the human

species, it is an ecology of all life.”

Visitors from all over the world

come to Findhorn to slow down, reenergise,

reflect and explore their own

purpose. While residential courses

are currently paused because of the

pandemic, visitors can still explore the

ecovillage – including the whisky barrel

houses and the Universal Hall, hand

built by community members. There

is also a café, and two pottery shops,

and a beautiful bay and beach a few

minutes’ walk away.

“At the Findhorn Foundation we

see each person’s life journey in the

global context of the evolution of the

human species in relationship with the

rest of the natural world,” explains

Janet. “And this takes place in an

aspiring ecovillage demonstrating a

way of life that regenerates people

and planet.”

findhorn.org

STAY NEARBY

Lodges at the Mains: East of

Findhorn, towards Inverness, these

architect-designed, five star eco

lodges are nestled in a secluded

woodland setting. Ground source

heating, solar panels, and cellulose

insulation help the lodges keep their

environmental impact to a minimum,

while wood-fired hot tubs and

bespoke, locally-made furniture mean

that comfort has not been sacrificed

in the process.

lodgesatthemains.co.uk

Hobbit Hideaway: In the foothills of

Ben Rinnes, surrounded on all sides

by stunning scenery, is the Hobbit

Hideaway. This quirky house, built

from wood, straw, clay and stone,

will delight Tolkein fans, as well as

anyone who wants to stay somewhere

unique and sustainable in a beautiful

environment.

hobbithideaway.co.uk

THE EDEN PROJECT

Built on the site of a clay pit in Cornwall,

the Eden Project’s bubble-like biomes

have become an iconic symbol of

sustainable tourism. As well as a visitor

attraction, Eden is an educational charity

and a social enterprise.

Visitors to the project can immerse

themselves in the world’s largest indoor

rainforest – which includes four distinct

types of rainforest environment; a canopy

walkway offers views across the biome

and the biodiversity platform showcases

the range of life in the rainforest. The

Mediterranean biome recreates the

landscapes of the Mediterranean, South

Africa, California and Western Australia,

and outside the biomes there are miles

of pathways winding through 20 acres

of outdoor garden, planted with over

3,000 plant varieties. The project has

been focused on sustainability since its

inception – using pioneering building

techniques, harvesting water on site,

and now experimenting with different

methods of power generation. Eden has

also worked with Natural England to

propagate rare native species and reestablish

them in Cornwall.


to see courtship displays from resident

and breeding birds, including the Great

Crested Grebe, and the Goldeneye. Into

early summer the wildflower meadows

come into bloom and the first of the

ducklings can be seen bobbing along

the shoreline. “If you’re really lucky you

might see a grebe carrying its young on

its back, or a flash of blue as a kingfisher

flashes past,” says Neil. The shore side

woodlands are also home to red squirrels.

STAY NEARBY

Balbirnie House

Around 20 miles east of the loch, is

Balbirnie House. This country house

hotel was built in 1777, and views from the

building extend over lawns and flowering

borders, to the 400 acre country estate

beyond.

balbirnie.co.uk

Market Street Hotel

Loch Leven is just 45 minutes from

Edinburgh by car, and if you’d rather

stay in town, Market Street Hotel is a

sophisticated choice. Opened in 2019,

the hotel was built on a derelict site in

the city’s historic centre and sensitively

constructed using locally sourced stone.

marketstreethotel.co.uk

STAY NEARBY

The Scarlet: A 30 minute drive across

the Lizard will take you to The Scarlet.

A luxury eco hotel with sea views,

meadow gardens, and clifftop hot

tubs, The Scarlet lists the 111 ways that

they aim for sustainability on their

website.

scarlethotel.co.uk

Kudhva: Kudhva are architectural

cabins, specifically designed for the

location, just up the Cornish coast

from the Scarlet. They are off-grid

hideouts, raised high above the

ground, with captivating views of the

coastline.

kudhva.com

LOCH LEVEN

Loch Leven is a Scottish National

Nature Reserve, and is known

internationally for the thousands of

ducks and geese that come to breed

there. “It’s an important barometer

for environmental change,” says

Neil Mitchell, the reserve manager.

The loch has been monitored

by scientists for over 60 years

and current work there is focused

on improving water quality, and

improving biodiversity.

Visitors to the loch can enjoy

spectacular natural scenery and

can choose how much of the

accessible 13 mile loch circuit they

feel able to tackle. In spring expect

LOOKING AHEAD...

Gateway at PEAK

Located near Chesterfield, Gateway

at PEAK is a new resort planned for

visitors to the Peak District. It will provide

accommodation for the millions of

visitors that already head to the area

each year. Construction is planned to

start in 2021.

Eden North

The Eden Project is expanding into the

north – and has plans to transform the

Lancashire coastal town of Morecambe.

There are plans for indoor and outdoor

attractions connecting visitors with

the internationally significant natural

environment of Morecambe Bay.

Scheduled to open in 2024.


THE BEST OF...

TALL

SHIPS

AND SAILING

ADVENTURES

From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the

open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the

definition of both freedom and excitement

Words | Lydia Paleschi


THERE’S NO DENYING

it’s possible to experience

the beauty of Britain

from the land, yet there’s

something remarkable

about accessing it via the water. Even

more so whilst aboard a traditional

sailing boat or Tall Ship. Heading

towards the horizon, rigging overhead,

powered by nothing but the wind adds

a sense of excitement to any adventure.

Fortunately, Britain’s diverse coastline

offers a rich selection of places to

explore. From rough seas and Celtic

crossings to the serene waters of tidal

creeks, here are some of our favourite

Tall Ships and traditional sailing

adventures to take part in this summer.

RECHARGE ON NATURE

For those wishing to “recharge on

nature”, The Coastal Exploration

Company, Norfolk have a small fleet

of traditional fishing boats from which

they explore the waters in and around

Norfolk. Their three boats – a whelk

boat, a crab boat and a mussel flat –

berth between four and eight people

and are available for a variety of

excursion types. An appreciation for the

environment and positive social change

underpins each of the explorations on

offer, whilst also engaging with the

history and wildlife of the local area.

Whether you decide to opt for a Salt

Marsh sail through protected tidal

creeks, embark upon a wild swimming

and foraging expedition, book a wellness

adventure, or enjoy an overnight sail

sleeping in hammocks underneath the

stars, you’re guaranteed to connect with

nature and encounter the wilderness of

the north Norfolk coast.

coastalexplorationcompany.co.uk

à


A SLICE OF BRITISH

PARADISE

Explore the UK’s largest archipelago

as part of the guest crew of a replica

Scillonian Pilot Cutter. Working Sail’s

hands-on, week-long sailing holidays

to the Isles of Scilly are perfect for those

looking to sail solo, or with friends,

and to gain some sailing miles. After

taking the 60-mile trip from Falmouth

to Scilly, prepare to meander amongst

the five inhabited islands and numerous

uninhabited islands, whilst soaking up

views of pristine white sandy beaches

and azure waters. There’s a sense of

remoteness here and a wide range of

wildlife to be enjoyed from a selection of

stunning anchorages. You can choose

to participate as much or as little as you

like in the crewing side of things, striking

the balance between both sailing and

relaxing.

workingsail.co.uk

FOR THE ADVENTURER

Sail your way from Wales to Ireland

on an impressive Tall Ship with Kraken

Travel (Cardiff to Dublin). Perfect for

those looking to spend a bit more time

under sail and to head out to the open

seas, this Cardiff to Dublin route includes

six nights aboard the STS Tenacious.

Regardless of whether you’re an

experienced sailor or a complete

novice, this trip provides you with the

opportunity to get your sea legs.

Participants can expect to join as part

of the crew, getting full, hands-on tall

ship sailing experience and taking part

in activities such as watch keeping and

going aloft. Expect to feel a sense of

escapism as you hit the open water and

soak up the Irish coastline, whilst getting

to know what it’s like to enter into two of

Britain’s vibrant capital cities by boat.

kraken.travel

FOR THE BEGINNER

Based in Portland Marina, Moonfleet

Adventure Sailing (Dorset) operates a

1930s tall ship originally built in Holland.

The ideal opportunity for families and

people of all ages to ‘dip their toe in the

water’, there are a range of daytime

experiences on offer, ranging from two

to six hours in length. All excursions

offer a chance to soak up the views of

Weymouth Bay and beyond. The longer

excursions make their way towards the

iconic Durdle Door for a picnic and a

more in depth exploration of the Jurassic

Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

moonfleetsailing.com


FOR THE WILDLIFE

ENTHUSIAST

Bessie Ellen (Scotland) is a vessel with a

colourful past. One of the last remaining

sailing cargo ketches, this historic sailing

ship traded during a time when Tall Ships

and rigged vessels were an everyday sight in

Britain’s ports and harbours. Now 116 years

old, Bessie Ellen is on the National Historic

Ships Register as an important vessel to

conserve. On offer are a series of voyages

of between three and seven days around

the British coast, with a fantastic selection

in both Scotland and Cornwall. Our

favourites are the Scottish wildlife tours,

where there’s a good chance of spotting red

deer, otters, golden eagles and red squirrels.

Plus, whales, seals and dolphins in the

water. Bessie Ellen adventures are known

to be great for the independent traveller as

much as for groups and couples.

bessie-ellen.com

FALMOUTH TALL SHIPS

REGATTA

Cornwall, 17 - 19th August 2021

The pinnacle of Tall Ship sailing, this

year’s annual Tall Ships Race starts in

Falmouth, Cornwall. Over 30 Tall Ships

from around the world are expected to

be anchored in Falmouth for three days

of festivities before racing to A Coruna

in Spain. The main attraction is the

Parade of Sail (19th August) before the

race start, which involves the Tall Ships,

along with hundreds of supporting

local boats and marine craft sailing in

company out of the harbour. Visitors

will be able to take tripper boats into

the Carrick Roads to view the ships up

close whilst they are anchored and there

will be a range of shoreside activities

including markets and music during the

course of their stay.

visitcornwall.com


IMAGE CHERHILL DOWNS © GREAT WEST WAY


WALKING

HOLIDAYS

There’s nothing better than getting outdoors on a guided

ramble of the great British countryside on foot - and with our diverse

range of scenic routes, trails and guides, it has never been easier.

From acres of glorious rural scenery, off-the-beaten track woodland

walks, to coastal paths with views out to sea, Britain offers a tranquil

escape for those dreaming of the great outdoors

Words | Emma O'Reilly

IT SEEMS WE’VE ALL fallen in love with walking over lockdown, but now

that we can roam further than just in our local area it’s time to start taking

note of our fantastic national walking routes. From the coastal charms

of the North Coast 500 in Scotland to the idyllic countryside and quaint

villages of the Great West Way in England, it’s time to lace up those boots

and make time to explore somewhere new. Take advantage of your increased

fitness levels with our selection of guided walks from across the British Isles,

guaranteed to put a renewed spring in your step!

à


Love and appreciate works of art

and beautiful things? Then you

might enjoy the new Renoir Walk in

Guernsey - an art trail following in

the footsteps of the famous French

impressionist, Pierre-Auguste Renoir

showcasing how the island inspired

some of the artist’s greatest works.

GUERNSEY

This Channel island has a dazzling coastline - from long

glittering beaches to secret rocky coves, Napoleonic

forts and Second World War bunkers. The new Islands

of Guernsey Way signposted trail can lead you round it

all, as well as the smaller sister islands of Herm, Sark,

Alderney and Lithou. The free app helps visitors find

their own way around, featuring a comprehensive

walking guide with maps and audio (a hard copy

guide will be available to buy for those who prefer old

school!). Each route will also detail timings, gradients

and difficulty levels, as well as those all-important

refreshment and loo stops. Dip in and out of the walks

as you desire or go all out and do the lot, totalling over

50 miles (plus the odd ferry hop). Find out more about

this and Renoir Walk from visitguernsey.com

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take a small rucksack

and pack swimming cossies and towels for impromptu

sea swims.

THE ANTRIM COAST

The Antrim coastline packs in blockbuster sights –

from the Glens of Antrim to the Carrick-a-Rede bridge

and the spectacular hexagonal basalt columns of the

Giant’s Causeway. Exploring on foot is a good way

to savour them properly. The new Walking the Antrim

Way holiday from Headwater (headwater.com), with

three days of self-guided walking, enables you to see

them all, plus huge sandy shores, clifftops, castles and

forest trails in between. All route maps are provided,

as is a luggage forwarding service. Accommodation is

in small B&Bs and the adventure finishes in Bushmills,

where you can toast the end of your stay with a whiskey

tasting at the famous distillery. Daily departures run

until 3rd October.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Game of Thrones fans

can visit Ballintoy Harbour, near the Carrick-a-Rede

Bridge – it appeared as the Iron Islands when Theon

first returns home on his ship.

IMAGE © NICK DESPRES/NITB PHOTOGRAPHIC LIBRARY/SHUTTERSTOCK_PATRYK KOSMIDER/VISITBRITAIN/MATTCANT


DORSET

“I somehow feel more English for having seen those

Dorset fields, surrounded by hedges basking in the

sun”. So said Julian in Enid Blyton’s Five on Finniston

Farm. The author holidayed for over 30 years in the

Studland area, and it inspired much of her writing.

The Carter Company (the-carter-company.com) have

based their Enid Blyton’s Dorset walking and cycling

tour around the places she loved. Set off on adventures

on foot or by bike - maps and lunch (don’t forget the

ginger beer) packed into your rucksack. Cycle trafficfree

forest trails to Corfe Castle, thought to be the

inspiration for Kirrin Castle, walk the Jurassic coastline

to picture perfect Lulworth Cove and Stair Hole, which

featured in the stories, and hop on a boat to Brownsea

Island, aka Whispering Island.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: If you have the

enthusiasm but not the energy of the Famous Five, an

electric bike is an option.

Pictured left-right: Saints Bay, Guernsey;

Carrick-a-Rede bridge and the Giant’s Causeway

on the Antrim coastline; Corfe Castle and

Durdle Door on Dorset's Jurassic Coast; hikers

walking the England Coast-toCoast trail.

ENGLAND COAST TO COAST

Experienced hiker? Then the 182-mile England

Coast-to-Coast trail could be your most exhilarating

challenge yet. This guided trip, from newly formed

Wilderness England (wildernessengland.com) from the

same team as Wildnerness Scotland, starts on the coast

at St Bees in Cumbria and finishes at Robin Hood’s

Bay in Yorkshire. In between, you’ll walk up hill and

down dale through no less than three National Parks

– the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North

York Moors. Expect eye popping scenery -and some

fascinating lessons in everything from medieval history

to local romantic poets like Wordsworth and Coleridge

from your expert guide.

You could do your research first looking online

at England's Coast who have just launched an

interactive map planner (englandscoast.com/en/

create-itinerary). Everything - food, snacks, water and

cosy accommodation- is included on this hike, so you

can concentrate on enjoying yourself. The trip runs on

several dates between now and mid-September.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: It’s good to do this

with a guide to avoid having to map read as it’s not the

best marked trail, although good progress is being made!


Follow the campaign hashtag

#WalkTasteExplore to join an English

walking adventure as part of a new

national campaign from sleeping

under the stars near the Pennine

Way to following in the footsteps of

Romans along Hadrian’s Wall Path

OUTER HEBRIDES

Five hours on the ferry from Scotland’s north east coast

carries you to the far flung Outer Hebrides. These

islands have their own special feel, with bleached white

beaches lapped by the wild Atlantic, a land dotted with

mountains and moorland and a gaelic culture all their

own. Macs Adventure's Outer Hebrides Island Hopscotch

(macsadventure.com) is an easy breezy ‘drive and hike’

self-guided trip around five of the them. Short daily

walks (maximum seven miles) leave time for feasting

on the heavenly local seafood and for sightseeing.

Visit an eagle observatory, a whisky distillery, the

showstopping beach of Luskentyre and prehistoric

ruins including the world-famous Standing Stones of

Callanish (older than Stonehenge) and the Bosta Iron

Age house. Even the ferry trips between the islands are

an adventure… This trip is available now until October.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Treat yourself to a Harris

Tweed jacket, woven by hand on the island of Harris.

NORTH NORFOLK

The new Seascapes of North Norfolk itinerary from

Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk) uncovers this unique

coastline. The walks are self-guided and gentle

(maximum seven miles), with some circular routes,

meaning that you stay in just three excellent pubs and

hotels over the course of the six nights. When it comes

to scenery there’s plenty of variety - vast beaches and

dunes, marshland nature reserves, cute flint and brick

villages and historic country estates. The flatness of

the coastline means the skies (as well as sunrises and

sunsets) are always huge – don’t forget your camera.

A transfer is included from Kings Lynn station, which

means you can leave your car at home.

You might choose to extend your holiday by booking

a stay with Barefoot Retreats (barefootretreats.co.uk),

a holiday cottage rental agency with some of the finest

luxury holiday cottages (and self-catering holiday

homes) in North Norfolk.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take binoculars

to appreciate up close the huge variety of bird and

wildlife enroute.

IMAGE © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SWENSTROOP/SHUTTERSTOCK/NICOLA-PULHAM


BEST UK

ATTRACTION

(Which? Magazine, 2020)

Make memories aboard Britannia

Walk in the footsteps of Royalty

Explore 5 decks of history

FREE Annual Pass Highly Accessible Royal Deck Tea Room

20% off

*20% off admission for up to 4 people. Enter code 1414 online at the checkout

stage on the Britannia website or show the advert/quote code at the Britannia

Visitor Reception on the 2nd floor of Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre. Not valid

in conjunction with any other offer, gift tickets or family tickets. One code per

transaction. No cash alternative. Valid until 31 August 2021. Ref: 1414.

Open from 12 May (Wed-Sun)

Please see website for opening times and prices royalyachtbritannia.co.uk

Gift Shop Free Parking Free Audio Tour Available in 30 Languages

BRITAIN’S MOST ECCENTRIC PALACE

RETREATS

Laid-back luxury holiday retreats

in North Norfolk

The

ROYAL

PAVILION

Call us on 03000 290901

info@rpmt.org.uk

www.brightonmuseums.org.uk

www.barefootretreats.co.uk

• 01485 512245 •

enquiries@barefootretreats.co.uk

Don't miss the new aerial walkway

opening at Aira Force, Cumbria

later this summer, to experience

its waterfall from a new dramatic

steel platform. “This innovation will

recreate the drama that Victorian

thrill-seekers sought here” says

Project Manger Charlotte Fuke.

WALK THE LAKE DISTRICT

The Borrowdale Valley makes a perfect base for

exploring the beautiful Northern Lake District. On

Explore’s (explore.co.uk) small group walking holiday

you’ll stay at a comfortable three-star hotel and stride

out on six days of spectacular walks. These begin with

Cat Bells, the perfect first day fell - not too arduous,

with just one steep but short scramble to the top.

The reward is 360-degree views over Derwentwater

and the surrounding fells. That should give an appetite

for further forays, including Haystacks (favourite of

Alfred Wainwright - author of the famous guides to the

fells – and where his ashes were scattered). Toughest

of the walks is a seven hour schlep up Scafell Pike,

England’s highest peak at 978 metres. It’s no Everest

but most walkers feel proud to have conquered it!

The walks run from April-October.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Train hill walking

muscles on that StairMaster at the gym – or your stairs

at home will do.

GOWER COAST PATH

This wild part of the Welsh coastline is less well known

than Pembrokeshire, yet its magnificent beaches are

regularly voted amongst the best in the world. Celtic

Trails (celtictrailswalkingholidays.co.uk) invigorating

43-mile route can be covered in five or six days

(depending on preference) with stays at guesthouses

and B&Bs along the way and your luggage sent ahead

of you. Highlights include Three Cliffs Bay, with its

limestone cliffs and vast swathes of caramel coloured

sand and the giant curve of Rhossili Bay, which

includes the wreck of the Helvetia Viking ship on the

shore. The path snakes slightly inland in places, past

dunes and through marshland and forest. The Gower

Coast Path itinerary is available between March and

October.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Keep your eyes peeled

for local wildlife, which could include kestrels, herons

and seals plus all sorts of birds and butterflies.

à


WALKING EVENTS IN 2021

–

MORAY WALKING AND

OUTDOOR FESTIVAL

11-22 June Walks in every corner of the

county, from Cairngorms to coastline

moraywalkoutdoorfest.co.uk

THE GREAT GLEN WAY

Take a highland fling following the route of the Caledonian Canal

from Scotland’s west coast at Fort William, to the east at Inverness

with HF Holidays (hfholidays.co.uk). It’s not all tow paths – on this

seven day guided walk you’ll follow forest trails and skim the shores

of Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness (from where, if the group

takes the high route, the views are sublime). You’ll see Neptune’s

Staircase, with its eight ‘climbing’ locks, enjoy views of Ben Nevis

and visit a floating pub. After skirting a river that feeds Loch Ness

you’ll see Nessie herself (just kidding – but please let us know if you

do!) Accommodation is in two hotels, both with indoor pools – great

for easing tired muscles after a day on your feet. The Great Glen Way

Guided Trail is from 18th-25th September.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: This is a ‘moderate’ level trip, so

only book if you are fit to cope with some ascents and six-seven

hours of walking per day.

THE COTSWOLDS

If just a long weekend of walks is appealing, Foot Trails’ (foottrails.

co.uk) Taste of the Cotswolds package should suit. You will be based

in an 18th century inn, celebrated for its excellent food, and head out

each day on a self-guided trail. The team tailor-make a trip to suit

your interests – and you can include rest days and change distances

if you prefer. A typical itinerary might include 7.5 to 10 miles of daily

walks, with a mix of villages and scenery, steering away from crowded

‘honeypot’ villages. Instead, discover quiet lanes, achingly pretty

cottages, tinkling streams and rivers, maybe even a Roman villa. After

a two to three hour morning walk, there’s time to enjoy a slap up pub

lunch before another couple of hours on foot.

British Travel Journal Top Tip: The Cotswolds is not just about the

villages. Check out stunning Cirencester, once the second biggest

city in Roman Britain.

ULTRA CHALLENGE – WALK

25, 50 or 100km to raise money for

your chosen charity, at events all over

England. Challenges in the next few

months include the Peak District,

Yorkshire, South West and Thames Path

ultrachallenge.com/the-events/

WHITE CLIFFS WALKING

FESTIVAL

26-31 August A choice of walks of

varying length each day over the coast

and downs in East Sussex

whitecliffswalkingfestival.org.uk

TREKFEST - THE BEACONS

18 September Choose from a 25

or 50km walk over stunning but

challenging terrain to raise money for

your favourite charity

trekfest.org.uk

MIGHTY HIKES MACMILLAN

Lots of walking marathons between

now and September in locations around

the UK. Participants pledge to raise a

minimum £250 through sponsorship.

mightyhikes.macmillan.org.uk

DARTMOOR WALKING FESTIVAL

29 August-5 September Around four

events a day, including ranger led walks,

archaeological visits and evening walks

and talks. The festival will raise money

for Devon Air Ambulance.

moorlandguides.co.uk


Iconic architecture, rich

heritage, exquisite cocktails

In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4

Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire

Hello@bombaysapphire.com | 01256 890090

BOOK YOUR GIN EXPERIENCE TODAY: BOMBAYSAPPHIRE.COM/DISTILLERY

Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10 (until 31/12/21)

10 OF THE BEST

OUTDOOR

DIPS

Whether you prefer to do your laps in five-star

luxury, reconnect with nature in a stylish swimming

‘pond’ or soak up the skyline from a city rooftop,

here are our top outdoor pools for taking the

plunge this summer

Words | Sophie Farrah

à

1

THYME,

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

The swimming pool at Cotswolds

haven Thyme is tucked away in

a beautiful, honey stone walled

garden on the hotel’s 150-acre

estate. This secluded and serene

heated outdoor pool is surrounded

by nature and filled with water

drawn from the estate’s very own

underground spring. A unique

bio-filtration system means that no

chemicals are used whatsoever, so

you can enjoy a swim in water that

is pure enough to drink! Complete

the all-natural experience by

drying off in the sunshine on one of

the stylish sunbeds that surround

the pool or grab a botanical

cocktail from the new poolside bar.

thyme.co.uk

2

THE SCARLET, NORTH

CORNWALL

Whilst the outdoor pool

at North Cornwall’s eco hotel

The Scarlet may be on the chilly

side, it’s worth braving it for the

views. Fringed by granite rocks

and greenery, this picture-perfect

swimming spot overlooks the

beautiful beach of Mawgan Porth.

Cleansed by a living reed bed as

opposed to harsh chemicals, this

unheated natural ‘pond’ is usually

a bracing 22°C in the summer but

fear not - after an invigorating dip

you can warm up in the nearby

wood-fired hot tubs and outdoor

cedar wood sauna, both of which

boast more stunning sea views.

scarlethotel.co.uk

3

PORTAVADIE, LOCH

FYNE, ARGYLL

Perched on the shores of

a stunning sea loch, the

extraordinary spa at Portavadie

cost a cool £10 million, and it

shows. Built using glass, steel,

stone and neutral tones, this

serene, sprawling spa experience

boasts an indoor pool, outdoor spa

pools and a Scandinavian sauna.

The star of the show however is the

81sqm heated outdoor infinity pool

- said to be the largest in Scotland

- with breath-taking views across

Loch Fyne to the Isle of Arran. It’s

kept at a comfortable 33°C, so

whatever the Scottish weather may

bring, you’ll feel positively balmy.

portavadie.com


4

LODORE FALLS HOTEL

& SPA, CUMBRIA

Nestled in the beautiful Borrowdale

valley in the heart of the Lake District,

the luxurious spa at The Lodore Falls Hotel

makes the most of the stunning scenery

that surrounds it. From the cool,

contemporary 16m outdoor hydro pool,

complete with neck jets, underwater

loungers and an overflow hot tub, alfresco

swimmers can enjoy breath-taking views of

Derwentwater and Cat Bells mountains.

The nearby glass-fronted Finnish sauna

boasts more wonderful views and, if you’re

feeling brave, invigorating cold-drench

buckets (followed by hot showers) are

available on the open-air poolside terrace.

lakedistricthotels.net/lodorefalls

à


5

THE HEADLAND HOTEL,

NEWQUAY, CORNWALL

The Headland Hotel’s new and

already award-winning £10

million Aqua Club has wow factor

at every turn. Enjoy the sunset

from the outdoor spa pool or do

a few laps in the larger, deeper

pool that encircles it; either way,

ingenious design makes the most

of the spectacular views over

Fistral Beach whilst also sheltering

swimmers from the wind.

Elsewhere, there’s a

spacious outdoor vitality pool

with a stunning Cornish granite

menhir (standing stone) at its

centre - a perfect place for soaking

tired muscles after a day exploring

the nearby coastal path.

headlandhotel.co.uk

6

ST BRIDES SPA HOTEL,

PEMBROKESHIRE

On a clifftop overlooking the

seaside village of Saundersfoot,

the award-winning spa at St Brides

boasts a heated, infinity-style

spa pool, with sweeping views

of the harbour and the stunning

Pembrokeshire coastline beyond.

With submerged loungers and a

hydrotherapy fountain, this bijou

pool is less for strenuous laps and

more for relaxing, whilst taking in

the fresh sea air and magnificent

views. It contains natural salt

instead of chemicals, and is heated

to a toasty 32-34°C.

stbridesspahotel.com

7

SOUTH LODGE HOTEL

& SPA, WEST SUSSEX

The beautiful, 18m outdoor

swimming pool at the luxurious

South Lodge Hotel & Spa may be

described as ‘wild’, but the good

news is that it’s heated. Edged

with swaying reeds and pretty

flowers, this undulating and ohso

inviting wild swimming ‘pond’

is surrounded by stylish decking,

parasols and comfy sunbeds to curl

up on after your dip. Elsewhere,

there’s a state-of-the-art spa

to explore, and more open-air

bathing on offer at the small but

sleek outdoor hydrotherapy pool.

exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge

à


8

KING STREET TOWNHOUSE,

MANCHESTER

In the summer months, city-centre hotels

with outdoor pools are a real treat. What

better way to shake off the sticky urban

heat than with a refreshing open-air dip,

sky high? The sleek, slate-grey infinity

spa pool at King Street Townhouse

may be small, but it is perfectly formed.

Located on the hotel's seventh floor, the

pool has a glass roof but is completely

open to the elements on one side,

offering incredible views across the city’s

skyline, dotted with pointy spires, and

of the iconic clock tower of Manchester

Town Hall. Sightseeing from a swimming

pool? Why ever not?

eclectichotels.co.uk

9

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL,

SOUTH DEVON

Positioned on its own private

island, it seems only fitting that

the completely unique Burgh

Island Hotel would offer a suitably

extraordinary outdoor swimming

experience. The hotel’s Mermaid

Pool is a breath-taking natural

seawater bathing pool, reminiscent

of a mythical lagoon. Secured by a

historic sluice gate and surrounded

by rocks for utter privacy, it’s worth

braving the unheated water for this

totally unique swim. Alternatively,

there’s also a rowing boat available

for those who would prefer to

remain dry - just watch out for the

mermaids…

burghisland.com

10

CLIVEDEN HOUSE,

BERKSHIRE

Very few swimming pools can

claim to be the origin of a worldfamous

political scandal, but

this one most certainly can. The

legendary ‘Profumo pool’ at

luxurious country retreat Cliveden

House is where John Profumo

first laid eyes on Christine Keeler,

and their infamous affair began.

Surrounded by rows of cream

sunbeds, neat topiary and swaying

lavender, this picturesque pool

sits in the hotel’s elegant walled

garden and is the last remaining

listed outdoor pool in England.

Admire the hotel’s stunning

neoclassical architecture whilst

doing a few lengths, before

unwinding in one of the outdoor

hot tubs.

clivedenhouse.co.uk


Pictured above then clockwise: Thames Lido,

Reading; Tinside Pool, Plymouth; Bristol Lido,

Bristol; Jubilee Pool, Penzance and swimmer

at Bristol Lido, Bristol

LOVELY LIDOS

–

Our love for lidos emerged in the 1930s when outdoor swimming first became popular

in the UK, and now these sociable swimming spots are making a comeback. Today,

there are more than 100 to discover, with more renovation projects in the pipeline.

Here’s where to make a splash this summer!

Thames Lido, Reading: After more than three years of careful restoration, this beautiful,

historic lido re-opened its doors in 2017. Located by the river Thames in Reading, the

water temperature at this urban retreat is heated all year round to between 24-26°C.

Spa treatments are available on-site, as well as a stylish poolside restaurant with a

Mediterranean menu.

thameslido.com

Bristol Lido, Bristol: Tucked away in the heart of Clifton, this historic lido is in fact a

restored Victorian swimming pool and it oozes stylish serenity. It’s kept at a toasty 24°C

and is surrounded on all sides by beautifully designed buildings that include an awardwinning

restaurant and a poolside tapas bar, perfect for a post-swim sangria.

lidobristol.com

Tinside Pool, Plymouth: Built in 1935, beautiful Tinside Pool is an internationally

acclaimed Art Deco style seaside wonder. Open only during the summer months, this

stunning semi-circular saltwater pool is 50m in diameter and is both family friendly and

fully accessible. Dry off on the large sunbathing terrace; the sea views are unbeatable.

everyoneactive.com/centre/tinside-lido

Jubilee Pool, Penzance: Another Art Deco gem is the recently restored Jubilee Pool on the

Cornish coast. It is the country’s largest seawater lido and there are three pools to choose

from. The popular geothermal pool is the first of its kind in the UK, where you can bathe in

natural salt water heated to between 30-35°C by the lido’s very own geothermal well.

jubileepool.co.uk


Pictured:

Laid-back

Breakfast by

Dine in the

Lakes. Inset

images: One

Fine Dine

chef and

One Fine

Dine

gourmet

dishes


CHEF'S TABLE

Chantal Borciani rounds up the best gourmet

at-home dining options from Michelin-chef catering to

curated menus delivered direct to your door

HOLIDAYS ARE ALL about

relaxing and enjoying

your surroundings and

now more than ever the

world of private dining and high-end

restaurant meals

delivered right to

your luxury rental

doorstep means

staycationers can

take all the work

out of mealtimes.

Whether you want

a top chef to come

and cook for you

or a traditional

afternoon tea

delivery, some

of Britain’s top

producers are on

hand to ensure you spend less time in

the kitchen and more time enjoying

your vacation…

ONE FINE DINE

From the finest gourmet boxes you heat

and serve at home to fully chef-catered

private dining, One Fine Dine is the byword

in exclusive gastronomy.

One Fine Dine offers superseasonal

gourmet menu boxes

delivered to your doorstep and

now its professionally trained

fine-dining chefs can take all

the work off your hands and

cater your entire meal. The

company has just announced

a partnership with five-star

UK property rental company

Bloomsbury Estates, so

guests at the luxury lodgings

can enjoy bespoke dining

packages from curated menus, fully

catered dinner parties, luncheons or simply a

wonderful family meal – all made to Michelin

restaurant quality. From £65 per person.

onefinedine.com

à


JACK & SCOTT’S PRIVATE

DINING SERVICE

The UK’s most foodie village now

adds another string to its bow – Bray

Cottages has teamed up with Jack

Blumenthal (son of Heston) and

Scott Perkins to offer delicious private

dining experiences. Located in the

heart of Bray-on-Thames, guests at

the six luxurious, quintessentially

British cottages can book the services

of Jack and Scott to create truly

memorable dining experiences at

home from personalised menus to

in-chef dining and virtual cooking

classes. Jack Blumenthal and Scott

Perkins are both Michelin trained

chefs – the pair have worked across

some of the UK’s finest restaurants

including The Fat Duck, The Hand

& Flowers, L’Ortolan and Petrus.

Round off your staycation in Bray

with a visit to one of the village’s

famous eateries such as the The Fat

Duck or Alain Roux’s The Waterside

Inn, which both boast three Michelin

stars. Alternatively, for those not

making a pilgrimage to the pretty

village of Bray, Jack & Scott’s private

dining experiences are also available

nationwide.

jackandscott.com

NORTHCOTE AT HOME

Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef

of Northcote Hotel and Michelin-star

restaurant in Lancashire’s picturesque

Ribble Valley has introduced Northcote

at Home Gourmet boxes – bringing

restaurant quality dining to your home.

Seasonally inspired and boasting

four courses, the Gourmet Boxes

can be delivered nationwide and are

a fantastic foodie journey of British

produce. For the ultimate staycation

surprise, you can also have Northcote’s

Michelin-star trained chefs cater for

your private dinner party, afternoon

tea or lunch, at your home or holiday


Pictured leftright:

Dish

from One Fine

Dine; Stein

at Home;

Cookaway

Miso Tofu

Steaks; from

Bistrot at

Home; and

fresh seafood

from

Harbour at

Home

cottage, complete with waiter

service and sommelier, should you

wish. From £125 for two people.

northcote.com/at-home/

gourmet-boxes

AFTERNOON TEA TO GO

Elite Hotels is offering a luxurious

Takeaway Afternoon Tea at two

of its south of England properties;

Luton Hoo Hotel, Golf & Spa in

Bedfordshire and Ashdown Park

Hotel and Country Club. An ideal

holiday treat or tasty celebration

for a birthday or anniversary, the

exquisite afternoon-tea boxes

include freshly made sandwiches,

fluffy scones with clotted cream

and strawberry preserve, and

beautiful handmade patisserie

such as matcha opera cake and

hazelnut praline cream éclair,

complemented by fine teas. From

£25 for two people.

elitehotels.co.uk

STEIN'S AT HOME & BEACH

RETREATS

During the past year, Rick Stein

has been ever-successful in

providing a taste of his coastal

menus through his Stein’s At Home

Boxes – available nationwide. Now

Stein’s At Home has partnered with

Luxury Cottages, the staycation

specialist offering 80 stunning

destinations around the UK,

enabling guests to pre-order a

Stein’s At Home delivery box at a

discounted rate. Luxury Cottage’s

Guest Services team is also on

hand to book and arrange delivery,

so you can simply arrive and enjoy!

Feast on a weekend breakfast box,

fresh fish box, Stein’s at Home

lobster or the ultimate foodie

weekend box. From £35 for two.

rickstein.com/steins-at-home

à


BIRTELLI’S

Independent pizzeria, Birtelli's, has

teamed up with holiday rental company,

Crabtree & Crabtree, to offer its artisan

make-your-own-pizza kits – a fun twist

on pizza night for your holiday. The

kits comprise ingredients sourced by

Michelin Star Executive Chef Paul Foster

and provide the perfect night-in meal

with no hassle. The partnership is part of

Crabtree & Crabtree's newly launched

Doorstep Delivery service, which gives

guests staying at their picturesque

abodes discounts with home-dining

specialists such at Birtelli’s artisan

pizza, Pasta Evangelists pasta kits and

Aubrey’s craft butchery. Crabtree &

Crabtree also have a team of chefs who

can cater for private dining at any of

their beautiful settings. From £16.99.

birtellis.co.uk/pizza-kits

COOKAWAY

Dine like kings on menus dreamt up

by MasterChef finalists and longstanding

chefs with flavour-packed

recipe boxes from The Cookaway.

The team has partnered with luxury

villa company Oliver's Travels

enabling guests to pre-order a recipe

box for their UK and Irish holidays.

Choose from recipe boxes created

by former MasterChef finalist Sara

Danesin, Kyoto-born chef and

cookbook author Reiko Hashimoto,

The Cookaway founder Nidhi Verma

and former MasterChef finalist Jack

Lucas to name but a few. Options

available from just £16 for 2 people.

thecookaway.com

HARBOUR AT HOME

Overlooking the mesmeric sands of

Elie Beach in the picturesque East Neuk

of Fife in Scotland Harbour at Home

offers boat-fresh lobster, langoustine,

crab and more to diners around the

British Isles. Chef patron, Amy Elles,

has created a series of luxury Scottish

seafood and fish hampers with produce

from small boats landing at Pittenweem


Pictured

above-right:

Garden

Gathering

from Dine in

the Lakes;

One Fine

Dine; and

dishes from

Bistrot

at Home

harbour, organic heritage breed beef from

Butchery at Bowhouse and salads from East

Neuk Market Garden. The hampers contain

personal touches such as Elie stones from

the beach for breaking open your lobster,

bibs, Harbour Café placemats and gorgeous

illustrations from artisan designer, Edinburgh

Letters. Boxes from £25.

theharbourcafe.co.uk

BISTROT AT HOME

The 25-year-old independent French

restaurant group Bistrot Pierre is adding

three new boxes to its range of high-end

at-home dining boxes. Ideal for those

staying out of town the new boxes include

the Celebration, Steak and Breakfast boxes.

From £35.

bistrotathome.co.uk

44 FOODS

Launched at the start of the pandemic,

with national delivery, 44 Foods offers all

the quality and freshness of a farm shop

direct to your door. From producer to plate,

44 Foods is a collective of farmers and

food producers who are passionate about

ethically produced, fairly priced, sustainable

food. Together, they supply fruit and veg,

meat and dairy, and larder essentials to your

home or holiday cottage – they are also the

company behind the Ultimate Staycation

Breakfast featured in our Travel News page

13. Meals for two from £20.50.

44foods.com

DINE IN THE LAKES

If you’re travelling to the incredible hills,

valleys and waterways of the Lake District, it’s

imperative to sample the region’s incredible

dining. Dine in the Lakes is a new gourmet

food delivery service providing luxury food

boxes from crème de la crème of Lake District

producers, delivered direct to your door. The

gourmet purveyor has teamed up with luxury

holiday home company Lakeland Retreats

meaning guests can have a breakfast, brunch

or a garden picnic package awaiting their

arrival. Prices from £35.

dineinthelakes.co.uk


48 HOURS STAYING AT...

CARY

ARMS

HOTEL & SPA

With rugged sandstone cliffs and azure-blue waters,

the coastal scenery surrounding Cary Arms is beautiful

enough to rival towns in the Mediterranean. Jessica Way

spends 48 unforgettable hours with her family staying in

luxury and exploring Babbacombe...

Words | Jessica Way

UNSPOILT VILLAGES, RUGGED MOORLAND and golden beaches -

there are many reasons to visit South Devon, though sitting proudly in

the beautiful Babbacombe Bay, there’s an award winning “Inn on the

Beach” - making the destination yet more inviting, irresistible perhaps.

Few hotels on our British coastline have a setting as spectacular as Cary

Arms & Spa, and from stepping foot inside, the views, character and

warmth induce an alluring sense of tranquillity.

Built in the late 1800s, the Torquay inn is steeped in history and has hosted Admiral Lord

Nelson, King Edward VII and Sir Winston Churchill. There are coastal-chic memorabilia

lining the walls of the cosy alcoves and hidden corners with some intriguing finds – one of

which is an original hand-written thank you letter from Winston's secretary in the 1940’s to

the then owners, Mr and Mrs Cox, expressing how they “thoroughly enjoyed their Cary Arms

Babbacombe Bay lobsters over dinner with Pol Roger champagne”.

à


Pictured left-right: Cary Arms Hotel & Spa; Beach

Huts at Cary Arms; Cove Cottage cosy sitting room

and stylish kitchen; views from Babbacombe Bay;

Jessica looking out over Anstey’s Cove

With 10 elegant sea-facing rooms and suites at the inn,

seven restored cottages, each with their own private gardens

and outdoor space, and eight brilliantly quirky deluxe beach

huts and beach suites, it is perfect for families – and easy to

socially-distance too. We stayed in Cove Cottage, a charming

characterful property with more than enough space for the four of

us (my husband and two daughters), and wonderful terraces from

which to admire the breath-taking sea views.

There was a fusion of romantic Tudor in the architecture with

décor combining traditional seaside with a Mediterranean twist.

Modern luxuries were found throughout with the homeliest of

colourful coastal kitchens, complete with red Aga, blue tongue

and grove, and a green statement leather armchair. Think The

White Company toiletries, patchwork quilts, stylish cushions,

Persian rugs and logs piled up high by the open fire. From the

kitchen a back door lead straight out onto the barbeque patio

area (large enough to have invited the neighbours!) leading

down to the beautifully landscaped lawn with rows of inviting sun

loungers.

Cary Arms was named after The Cary family, who have been a

part of Torquay’s history since 1662 when Sir George Cary moved

into Torre Abbey. Today a museum and well worth a visit, the

monument itself dates back to 1196 and is set within 18 acres of

garden and parkland. The Cary family owned much of the land at

Cockington, St Marychurch and Babbacombe.

The hotel is privately owned and managed by multi-millionaire

entrepreneur Peter de Savary, or PdeS (as he is known) and wife

Lana, the inspiration behind some of the finest clubs and resorts

around the world including the St James’ Clubs, The Carnegie

Club at Skibo Castle in Scotland, and Bovey Castle in Dartmoor

National Park.

Acquired in 2006, they re-opened the popular seaside inn

following a no-expenses-spared renovation in 2010 launching as

a luxurious boutique retreat, with bedrooms, food and activities

to rival any of the finest hotels in the country. Babbacombe Bay

has always been one of Torbay’s quietest and least spoilt beaches,

and as a guest at the hotel gazing at idyllic views, from sunrise to

sunset, is a wonderful way to spend a few days.


“

It opens up onto a grassy

path between bushes of gorse,

blackthorn and bramble leading

onto the Downs, with a vast open

space and plenty of benches from

which to enjoy the scenery.

”

DAY ONE

With the South West Coast Path just yards away from Cary Arms

and Cove Cottage doorstep it felt natural to begin the day with a

coastal walk. So, following a hearty breakfast we decided to take

the 1.5 mile coastal route to Kents Cavern, passing Long Quarry

Point and Anstey’s Cove. Self-guided exploration is at its best

when you have the handy yellow arrows to follow, and although

there were quite a few steps along the windy path, the incredible

views more than rewarded you for your effort.

The woodland areas were stunning, lined with shade-loving

plants from butterbur plants with horseshoe-shaped leaves to

harts tongue ferns. Then it opens up onto a grassy path between

bushes of gorse, blackthorn and bramble leading onto the Downs,

with a vast open space and plenty of benches from which to enjoy

the scenery. You can look down on the beautiful bays from here

and there is access to Redgate Beach which we may have visited

for a swim if the weather had have been better. There is also an

interesting pavilion which proved useful to us during a sudden rain

shower!

At the far end of the Downs, the path disappears into the trees

again and from this small path you can see down into Anstey’s

Cove, one of Agatha Christie’s favourite haunts. Also, on the left

of the path, you may be interested in a partially-hollow ash tree

– a natural work of art. It is not long before you see signs to Kents

Cavern, where you can enjoy a pre-historic experience on a tour

into the limestone cave – as Britain’s “oldest home”. This popular

attraction is also one of the key sites to justify the English Riviera

(the name given to the nine-mile stretch of coast between Torquay

and Brixham) UNESCO Global Geopark status, one of only 7 in

the entire UK. Exploring the extensive labyrinth of caverns and

spectacular natural formations is fascinating - the most significant

artefact is a 38,000 year old human jawbone; Europe’s oldest

human fossil. I would take a warm jacket as it can be quite chilly

down in the caves - the coffee and cake was welcomed afterwards

(hot meals also available).

From Kents Cavern we took a slight detour, joining the coastal

path a little further along at the brilliantly named, Brandy Cove,

from which I’m sure there will have been a few smugglers’ tales!

You can see Hope’s Nose from here, an odd-shaped piece of land

looking out over the sea in all directions. Back towards Cary Arms,

another interesting peninsular, Long Quarry Point with its horns

of different sizes looks like the nose of a rhino!

The path tucks close in under a limestone cliff, passing Anstey’s

Cove. Make your way down the steep hill for the fabulous beach

à


SUBSCRIBE TO

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL...

AND RECEIVE A SIGNATURE SEYCHELLES CANDLE FROM

THE WHITE COMPANY WORTH £20 - ALL FOR JUST £19!

Luxury

free gift

WORTH

£20!

Subscribe online britishtraveljournal.com/twc

Subscribe as a gift for someone special with our non-renewing gift options

THE WHITE COMPANY

STYLE

EDITS

It's time to relax with these ultimate

summer staycation holiday essentials...

Timeless style

Get the look in these fleeceback turn-up

cuff joggers, made from organic cotton with

a super-soft fleecy inner lining, £69.

thewhitecompany.com

Must haves

Jewellery Travel Case,

£39, Christys' Panama

Hat, £89, Veja V-10

Trainers, £115.

thewhitecompany.com

POOLSIDE BLISS

Feel forever chic and sophisticated...

Slip into these effortlessly stylish Havaianas Flip Flops, £24, wrap up in the Morella

Outdoor cotton beach towel, £25 and relax in the wonderful woven Faro Deckchair,

£255, or Double Deckchair, £295. thewhitecompany.com

Editor loves

White Pom-Pom Swimsuit,

with classic halterneck and

scoop back, £59.

thewhitecompany.com


“

All the senses are engaged by

smooth and enchanting notes of

frangipani blossom, the sound of

the surf, and the gentle rocking of

the body in time with the waves, the

ultimate feeling of relaxation and

total escape.

”

café selling paninis, baked potatoes, sandwiches and burgers.

Once back at Cary Arms we enjoyed a delicious alfresco lunch

of Lyme Bay lobster and line caught seafood on the sun garden

terraces, while watching the kayakers and scuba-divers enjoying

themselves in the blue waters below. The sun came out and

amidst the glorious scenery I couldn’t agree more in that moment

as one of the friendly waiters described it as surely one of the most

romantic spots in the British Isles. Inside, big windows show off

views across the bay. Portland Bill, fifty miles away, is visible on

clear days.

By the late-afternoon I was ready for some more seaside

therapy at the hotel spa. This came in the form of pouches of

hot sand during an incredible Polynesian-inspired massage.

All the senses are engaged by smooth and enchanting notes

of frangipani blossom, the sound of the surf, and the gentle

rocking of the body in time with the waves, the ultimate feeling

of relaxation and total escape. The waterfall hydrotherapy pool

is equally as impressive, with an innovative floor-ceiling glazing

framing the views out to the ocean. The spa also has a sunbathing

terrace decorated with exclusive American Art illustrations from

Peter de Savary’s own private collection.

Once refreshed back at the cottage it was time to head

out for dinner – the best of both worlds. It is just a short stroll

to the charmingly restored historic inn, still brimming with

the charm and character from when it was built in the 1880s.

Beamed ceilings, original stone walls, planked floors, books and

boardgames. A crackling log fire for cooler evenings - the informal

mood is achieved with effortless style.

For those who enjoy a proper pint, Otter Ale and Bays are

just two of the highlights, and there is an impressive selection on

the wine list, with a few local gems to include; Devon’s Harpham

Pinot Noir & Précoce, Hampshire’s Nyetimber, Devon’s Sandford

Orchards Ice Cider, as well as Plymouth and Salcombe gin. I

opted for their Cary Arms signature cocktail - a blend of Crème de

Violette, Malibu, coconut water, lime juice and almond garnished

with a Viola flower.

In addition to the fabulous local food, liquid refreshments

and warm atmosphere, an evening meal at Cary Arms is made

even more special by the quirky alcoves providing the perfect

cubbyholes for private dining – with views.


There’s the Captains Table, seating six, the Pod, seating four,

or the Wheel House, where we sat, with panoramic sea views

enclosed by original stone walls.

Head Chef is Steve Poyner, a Devon local, born in Torquay,

he joined the kitchen of Cary Arms following the reopening after

Peter and Lana de Savary’s extensive refurbishment in 2009. In

2010 he went to work at de Savary’s Oxfordshire hotel, The Old

Swan and Minster Mill, where his skill and enthusiasm to learn

led to his promotion to Chef de Partie after only eight months.

Four years later and with much ignited passion and experience

under his belt, Steve chose to return to his roots back at the Cary

Arms & Spa as Sous Chef. Since 2014 he’s been working with a

talented and close-knit kitchen team and has been instrumental

in the philosophy and success of the restaurant – from their use of

the finest local ingredients to their AA rosette. At only 30 he’s an

inspiring young talent.

With such a fantastic range of Devon fish, seafood and farm

produce, Steve and his team do not need to look far to find

great ingredients. From perfectly hung steaks to the freshest

local shellfish, their menu changes frequently according to what

ingredients are available locally and in season. For me, the 'catch

of the day' was the obvious choice, caught from Brixham less than

12 miles away – this is a Devon, sea-to-fork dining experience at

its finest. They describe their dining as simply ‘gastro food cooked

simply’ but it feels more special than that to me. However, the

unpretentious friendly approach to their fantastic service is hugely

welcomed and relaxing, especially when making the most of time

together as a family. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.

DAY TWO

Following a fabulous night's sleep (must be all that fresh coastal

sea-air) and another leisurely breakfast we decided we wanted

to explore Babbacombe a little more before heading home. From

the jetty in front of Cary Arms it is easy to spot the Babbacombe

Cliff Railway adjoined to the red sandstone cliff – on the shore

of Oddicombe Beach, and so we could see our first stop and the

route we needed to take. In the opposite direction of the morning

before we headed off, picnic in hand, for our second adventure.

Taking the wooden catwalk to the path under the limestone cliff

there becomes a choice to follow the coast path to Babbacombe

(signposted off to the left), or to continue along the beach route

(signposted right to Petit Tor). We wanted to experience the Cliff

Railway and decided the best route would be to take it up and

walk down rather than the other way round – so continued until we

reached Oddicombe Beach. From this path there are fine views on a

clear day across to Sidmouth and even as far as Portland Bill.

A waterfall cascades down the cliff on our left and huge

Pictured opposite page: The glass faceted sea-facing

spa; the Captains Table; and alfresco dining, all at Cary

Arms Hotel & Spa. Pictured below: The Babbacombe

Cliff Railway

boulders keep us dry as the gentle waves brake to our right.

The Babbacombe Cliff Railway line runs every day, with a

closure period in winter for maintenance. Dating back to 1926,

it has shuttled holiday makers to and from Oddicombe Beach

for over 90 years! 2 parallel tracks, each over 700 feet long, take

you on a carriage ride tour up (or down) the cliff – and there is

an informative Visitor Centre on the beach. There is also the

highly recommended Three Degrees West café, bar and bistro,

perfect for coffee, cakes or a spot of tapas. At the top station

there are fine views over Lyme Bay and it is only a short walk to

Babbacombe Model Village – another must visit on our list, and

one of Torquay’s most famous attractions.

This miniature world is quite a spectacle! You can get lost in

admiring the details and impressive creativity at every twist and

turn. As seen on BBC’s comedy drama 'Don't Forget the Driver',

and the ‘One Show’, there are 4 acres of award-winning gardens

showcasing hundreds of model scenes, vehicles & people. This

is an evolving attraction too, Mike Rhodes, General Manager,

who has worked previously at Walt Disney World, has in the

last few years started using 3D printing to create some of the

smaller figures and details such as lampposts. We visited during

the day – but during the summer you can also visit in the evening

and experience the creation of illuminations – with every car,

van, lorry, street lamp and model being carefully wired to create

authentic lighting as you would see in any real street scene.

The walk back to Cary Arms took us on a bracing route

à


Pictured left-right: Babbacombe

Model Village, Cary Arms Hotel &

Spa and fun on the rocks.

“

This miniature world is quite

a spectacle! You can get lost in

admiring the details and impressive

creativity at every twist and turn.

”

along Babbacombe Downs - the highest cliff top promenade

in England. From here you can not only take in the spectacular

coastline, but also spot seabirds, seals and even dolphins.

For adrenaline junkies there is plenty to challenge you with

coasteering, sailing, scuba diving and hiking.

If you are a keen sailor, Babbacombe makes a convenient

departure point for a Lyme Bay crossing: to Portland Bill, from

Devon Riviera to Jurassic Coast.

The charming and characterful village of Babbacombe is

quite enchanting with its colourful promenade and picturesque

buildings. There are also plenty of independent shops,

boutiques, bars, restaurants and cosy tearooms. We passed

Babbacombe Theatre - host to many fantastic performances

throughout the year, one of the most successful theatres of

its size in the country. We followed the woodland path back

down to Cary Arms as it was sadly time to go home. My only

regret was not staying longer, with so many more coastal and

woodland walks on our doorstep, and such a treasure trove of

hidden coves and tranquil settings, we could have easily stayed

for a week discovering something new every day. From Cary

Arms you could even walk all the way along the South West

Coast Path to Torquay – and Torbay, at the very heart of the

English Riviera. Just one reason of many to plan a return!

Stay at Cove Cottage mid-season to higher season from

£450-£650 per night, caryarms.co.uk


TRAVEL BY TRAIN

THIS SUMMER

Whether it’s National Parks, coastal retreats or city escapes,

book now at GWR.com, on our app, or at a station.

HEALTH

BREAKS

Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind and be

pampered…all is possible, and at a social

distance, on these revitalising, life-affirming

breaks around the British Isles

Words | Emma O'Reilly

FIND YOUR BEST

BODY IN KENT

Peace, privacy, luxury… The Fold is a beautiful

new shepherds hut in the Weald of Kent. Actually,

it’s two shepherds huts, joined in the middle. This

means room for a full spec kitchen, shower room

and loo, a king-sized bed, sofa and swanky copper

bath plus a wood burner and back up heating for

year-round cosiness.

The Fold sits in its own field, where your only

company will be the birds (including the resident

barn owl), the bees and the butterflies. While

you’re here, have a full body check! Co-owner

John is an ex Harley Street ‘super coach’ and

corrective exercise specialist and offers everything

from Fit2Go Body Screening programmes, which

identify body areas that could be prone to injury,

right up to detailed assessments for those with

existing back and joint injuries.

With each you will receive targeted training

programmes to take home. Pilates in the onsite

studio and Nordic Walking lessons in the

surrounding countryside are also possible.

Prices from £130 per night, room only, although chefcooked

meals can be delivered at extra charge. ◆

airbnb.com/h/shepherds-hut-kent


FEEL TWICE AS NICE

IN NORTH YORKSHIRE

Yoga and climbing may not, at first glance,

have very much in common. Yet both are about

connections, with ourselves and our universe,

and each requires a discipline of both body and

mind. On two-night Yoga and Climbing breaks

in North Yorkshire, the days are a combination

of energising and relaxing yoga plus climbing

instruction at a chosen crag (depending on

ability) in the North York Moors. Then it’s back

to Yoga & Spice’s base near Whitby for relaxed

evenings with vegan and vegetarian dinners

followed by satisfying slumbers in comfortable

ensuite cabins. These breaks work really well for

a family or group of friends (4-6 people) wanting

a fun activity break away together. No climbing

experience is needed but you do need to be

reasonably fit to take part. Prices from £450 per

person in a shared room or £575 in a single room,

to include yoga, two days climbing, meals and

two/three nights accommodation. ◆

yogandspice.com/stay/

DIVE RIGHT IN

THE NORTHERN ISLES

OF SCOTLAND

We might not think of the UK as a Scuba diving

destination but it can actually be a great place

to start discovering our underwater world. You

can do a full PADI diving course but why not dip a

toe in the water, so to speak, and learn the basics

on a PADI Discover Scuba Diving (sometimes

called Try Dive) course. That way, you can find

out if you like it before splashing out on a more

expensive diving holiday abroad. The courses

take place in more than 200 centres around the

UK, often in swimming pools but sometimes in

the sea, too, and can be completed in just one

day. For example, you could stay at Cantick Head

Lighthouse Cottage (sleeps four) which has an

incredible location on the edge of a cliff in the

Orkney Islands, and then do a Try Dive at Scapa

Flow, famous for its shipwrecks.

Dive prices vary. Guided shore diving in Orkney

costs £170 per person, and prices at Cantick Head

Lighthouse Cottage start from £120 per night. ◆

krakendiving.co.uk; padi.com;

hostunusual.com

à


IMAGE © JOEL MCDERMOTT

HEALING WITH HORSES

IN EXMOOR

Well we’ve heard of horse whispering. But do we ever stop

to think about the positive effect that horses could have on

us? At Heale Farm, owners Judith and Dean run two-day

(one-night) Heale Horses & Nature Retreats, designed to

help those with too much stress, anxiety or trauma in their

lives. Guests are invited to go out walking and talking in the

Exmoor wilderness with Judith and her two gentle horses,

Shalindra and Roger. Judith is an NLP (Neuro Linguistic

Programming) Master Practitioner and uses this method of

coaching, alongside the soothing power of the horses and

surrounding nature, to help people think in more useful and

positive ways. As well as two sessions with the horses, the

retreat includes two breathing and mindfulness sessions

and meals in Judith and Dean’s farmhouse kitchen.

Guests stay in one of three beautiful cottages on site.

Prices from £250 per person, all-inclusive. ◆

healefarm.co.uk

MAKING WAVES IN

THE ISLE OF MAN

Whilst the TT may be one of the most wellknown

events in the Isle of Man calendar, their

shores are also home to a range of activities

to get your blood pumping. Feel elated as you

whiz down the zip-lines after navigating one of

the highest rope course in the UK at Ape Mann

Adventure Park, or, for an experience you will

never forget, try coasteering with Adventurous

Experiences in Peel. Find your inner child

wanderlust as you explore caves, scramble

over boulders and take courageous leaps off

the rocks, with the backdrop of Peel Castle.

Treat yourself afterwards to a locally-made

Davisons ice cream as you stroll through the

pretty seaside town. The Isle of Man, with its

unspoilt coastline, hidden coves and craggy

cliffs is perfect for water sports, but how ever

you choose to spend your time on this stunning

Manx island there’s never a dull moment!

Coasteering is priced £45 per person. ◆

adventurousexperiences.com /

visitisleofman.com


RELAX, RESET, REWILD…

IN CORNWALL

That’s the motto of Thera-Sea, who run breaks in Cornwall, on

the banks of the River Fal. The first clue that this is a get-awayfrom-it-all

type of holiday comes when you arrive – access

is only via hiking or boating. An old woodsman’s cottage is

on the banks of the River Fal and surrounded by woodland –

guests stays in the cottage or other buildings dotted around,

like The Treehouse and The Potting Shed. The goal during

your two-night stay is to inspire you to achieve goals and

manage stress. Founder Katy Griffin trained as a mental

health nurse and runs inspiring self-development workshops

alongside off-grid activities. There’s wild swimming and torch

lit boat trips along the river plus star gazing and huddling

around the fire pit to chat and watch the chef prepare dinner.

Plenty of time is given also to just lie round in a hammock.

The course is available on selected dates from now until November.


thera-sea.co.uk

à


REST AND DIGEST IN

WORCESTERSHIRE

Ancient Ayurvedic texts claim that many illnesses,

both physical and mental, stem from poor

digestion. Modern science is catching up, with a

growing realisation that we really are what we

eat. The five-night Healthy Gut Retreat, at The

Clover Mill in Worcestershire, aims to help guests

re-set their biome with a combination of pre- and

pro-biotic food and drinks, yoga and yoga-nidra,

meditation, massage and talks. Guests stay in

beautiful, peaceful eco lodges overlooking a lake,

which helps to complete the unwinding process.

Goody bags are dished out before leaving and,

guess what?, they’re not full of chocolate, but

instead are crammed with healthy recipes, spice

mixes, fermentation starters, massage oil, a

personalised yoga practice and more , so that you

can keep up the good work when you get home.

The next retreats are from July 15-20, September

16-21 and October 21-26. Prices from £1975 per

person, all inclusive. ◆

theclovermill.com/microbiome


SOOTHE YOUR SOUL IN

THE WYE VALLEY

The Tudor Farmhouse, in the heart of both the

Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley is a great

place to immerse yourself in nature. The hotel’s

Soul Soother breaks take things a step further

as they include forest bathing experience (or

Shinrin-yoku in Japanese) with expert Carina

Greenwood. So…for those who don’t know,

it doesn’t mean having an actual bath in the

forest. It isn’t just about taking a walk in the

forest either. It’s about learning to fully immerse

yourself in the woodland environment, being

mindful and opening up all your senses. Exercises

might include time spent concentrating only on

movement, colour or smell for example, or really

studying a tree up close. The experience finishes

with a foraged tea ceremony. All those who book

this package will also receive a gratitude journal

plus a sleep spray. In-room massages or a visit to

local floatation centre Float in the Forest can also

be arranged. Prices from £298 per person including

two nights half board, a forest bathing session, a

Bramley Sleep Spray and a Gratitude Journal. ◆

tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

ONE NIGHT REFRESHER

IN PEMBROKESHIRE

Just a one-night break away from home can be

surprisingly invigorating. Sea Kayaking, Foraging

and Wild Camping along the Pembrokeshire

Coast with Much Better Adventures achieves

it even better than most. Day one blows away

the cobwebs straightaway, pootling in a

kayak around wooded estuaries and secluded

bays. Explore sea caves, spot seals and fish

for mackerel, which you’ll cook later over the

campfire for dinner. The expert guides teach

you some bush craft skills and help you forage

for more edible goodies. Slumber comes in the

form of sleeping and Bivvy bags beneath the

stars on a secluded beach, only accessible by

boat. Next morning after breakfast, there’s more

kayaking and your guides can teach you the art

of body surfing. This trip runs between May and

September and is for up to eight people, so ideal

with a group of family or friends.


muchbetteradventures.com



WALKING TOUR OF...

CHESTER

CITY WALLS

Now that we are able to wander

around Britain's towns again,

visiting historic sites and stopping

somewhere picturesque for a

relaxing lunch, the walled city of

Chester is at the top of our list

DISTANCE

—

This two mile

walk takes

about 45

minutes but

will of course

take longer if

you stop to take

photographs or

divert to explore

all the curious

and historic

sights visible

from the walls.

ONCE UPON A

MEDIEVAL time every

British city needed walls.

Most demolished them

in less turbulent times,

to ease expansion in the eighteenth and

nineteenth centuries but a few cities

were far-sighted enough – or simply

Words | Adrian Mourby not wealthy enough – and deferred

demolition until it happened that walls

suddenly became fashionable again.

Nowadays we no longer need them to

keep out marauders or exclude rebellious

Pictured: armies but walls do keep a town centre

King Charles compact and they do make for a great

Tower found in

tourist attraction as well.

the North East

corner of

Nowhere in Britain have city walls

Chester's City been so well preserved as at Chester, a

Walls walk small half-timbered, sandstone city on

the River Dee that was a major west coast

port in Roman times. The port silted up

in the middle ages and is now a famous

racecourse beautifully laid out below the

Chester city walls. Today almost every attraction

that Chester has to offer the visitor can be

viewed from the two mile circuit of these

walls.

à


“

Nowadays we no longer need city walls to keep out marauders or

exclude rebellious armies but they do keep a town centre compact

and they do make for a great tourist attraction as well

”

Pictured left: Bridge

Street, which along

with Northgate

Street, Watergate

Street and Eastgate

Street, is one of the

four original streets

built inside Roman

Chester. Below:

Installed in 1899,

the Eastgate Clock

is positioned on the

bridge over Eastgate

Street.

Start your visit by taking the steps

on Pepper Street up to the walls

and turning left. Peppergate was

the scene of a famous elopement in

Tudor times. The furious alderman

whose daughter had slipped through

the gate to run away with her lover

ordered that it must henceforth be

kept locked after sunset, which gave

rise to a local saying that mocks any

precaution taken too late. “When the

daughter is stolen, shut the Pepper

Gate.

The city walls are as wide as a

modern British pavement and they

pass over all of Chester’s gates.

Three hundred yards east along the

parapet we encounter East Gate

over the old Decumanus Maximus,

the main Roman road through

the city. Originally it continued

on as far as Mamucium (modern

day Manchester). Here there is a

splendidly ornate painted Victorian

clock over the gate under which all

walkers must pass. It commemorates

Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in

1897.

One of the best views into the

city is from this clock, all the way

down pedestrianised Eastgate

Street with its huge range of typical

Did you know?

The Eastgate Clock in

Chester, is said to be the

most photographed clock

in England after Big Ben


ILLUSTRATION BY

CONTISTA MEDIA LTD

Chester architecture, Gothic,

Tudor, Georgian, neoclassical and

nineteenth century mock Tudor.

Further along the walls we pass

the cathedral and the old abbey

grounds. Sometimes you’ll see a

range of swift hunting birds being put

through their paces below.

At a point where the walls turn

north there is a round tower marking

the corner. From Roman times

Chester was always a rectangular city

with rounded corners and a defensive

tower at each corner. This particular

tower is named after King Charles I

who in 1645 is said to have watched

the Battle of Rowton Moor unfold

from its roof. It was a bad day for the

ill-fated king as his army were driven

from the field and he narrowly missed

being killed by a Parliamentary sniper

as he escaped.

From here walls now run parallel to

the Shropshire Union Canal which is

cut deep into the sandstone outcrop

on which Chester was built. At

North Gate the old Roman northsouth

road through Chester (Cardo

Maximus) passes below. The elegant,

brick-built Blue Coat School, opened

in 1717 to provide education for poor

and deserving boys of the city is

visible from the gate. It is now part of

Chester University.

The walls now run westwards,

downhill towards the old Roman

port. Midway along there is an

eighteenth-century round tower

with stone seating facing into the

à


city. This was built as the Goblin

Tower but now it’s locally known

as Pemberton’s Parlour after a

mayor of Chester who was involved

in its reconstruction. Below this

stand two towers built to defend

the Roman port. The one nearest

the river is called - not surprisingly

- Water Tower while the other is

named after Bonewaldesthorne,

an officer in the army of Queen

Aethelflaed, who in the tenthcentury

was responsible for

extending Chester’s Roman walls

down to the river.

Surprisingly, at this point a

railway line is cut straight through

the walls. This act of Victorian

vandalism was done in 1846, long

before the city walls were scheduled

as an ancient monument in 1979.

The walk along the western

length of the walls gives a good

view over the Roodee racecourse

which was Britain’s largest port in

Roman times. The River Dee now

skirts the racecourse in the distance

where it is crossed by the Grosvenor

Bridge. When this elegant stone

bridge was opened by Queen

Victoria’s mother in 1832, it was

the longest single-span arch bridge

in the world, an honour that it

retained for 30 years.

After Roodee the wall reaches

Chester Castle which was built on

raised ground overlooking the River

Dee. Constructed over centuries

in the same sandstone as the city

wall the castle consists of a Norman

tower, a medieval stronghold and a

sequence of neoclassical buildings

that were designed by Thomas

WHERE TO EAT

–

JOSEPH BENJAMIN

This popular modern restaurant close

to North Gate was created by Joseph

and Benjamin who are also responsible

for Porta Tapas next door. This

winning team have recently ventured

into Greater Manchester too.

134 – 140 Northgate Street, 01244

344295, josephbenjamin.co.uk

–

CHEF’S TABLE

A tiny, cheerful café-cum-bistro that is

open from breakfast till very late. Bare

boards and black tables rightly place

all the emphasis on the food and the

service. This is probably also the best

vegan restaurant in Chester.

Music Hall Passage, 01244 403040,

chefstablechester.co.uk

–

THE ARCHITECT

Close to the race course, the home of

Thomas Harrison who created so many

of Chester’s fine 19th century buildings

has been turned into a pub-cum-dining

room offering traditional British dishes

with an eastern twist.

54 Nicholas St, 01244 353070,

brunningandprice.co.uk/architect/

–

IMAGE © D.SEJRUP


Words | Adrian Mourby

Pictured:

King Charles

Tower found in

the North East

corner of

Chester's City

Walls walk

MEDIEVAL time

every British city

needed walls. Most

demolished them

in less turbulent times, to ease

expansion in the eighteenth and

nineteenth centuries but a few

cities were far-sighted enough

– or simply not wealthy enough

– and deferred demolition until

it happened that walls suddenly

became fashionable again.

Nowadays we no longer need

them to keep out marauders or

exclude rebellious armies but

walls do keep a town centre

compact and they do make for a

great tourist attraction as well.

Nowhere in Britain have city

walls been so well preserved as at

Chester, a small half-timbered,

sandstone city on the River Dee

that was a major west coast port

in Roman times. The port silted

106 BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 107

walls.

Stratford

-upon

-Avon

Pictured

Left-Right:

Afternoon Tea

at The Architect,

Nicholas Street;

Chester Castle;

The Roman

Gardens

Harrison (1788 – 1813) the same

person who designed Grosvenor

Bridge. Today Chester’s military

museum and Crown Courts are

housed in the castle.

Just before Bridge Gate the wall

briefly disappears and becomes

Castle Drive and the University’s

Riverside complex, but it resumes

within a few hundred yards at Old

Dee Bridge. The very first bridge on

this site was built by the Romans

but this span dates from 1387. On

the far side of this low sandstone

structure there are the remains of a

Roman temple to Minerva and the

road then leads on to Wales.

In medieval times relations

between the people of Chester and

their Welsh neighbours were so bad

that it was not deemed illegal to kill

a Welshman found within the city.

(This law has never been repealed.)

We are almost back at

Peppergate but do look out beyond

the walls as we come full circle. Next

to the eleventh-century Church of St

John the Baptist – greatly reduced

following many collapses over the

centuries – lie the remains of the

largest Roman amphitheatre in

Britain. Only half of it has been

dug out because to uncover the

rest several buildings would have

to be demolished, not to mention

the damage to St John’s shaky

foundations. Now it’s time to set off

into the centre and explore.

For more information visit

visitcheshire.com/chester

IN OUR NEXT ISSUE:

Stratford -upon-Avon, wander

round this medieval market town

in England's West Midlands...

WALKING TOUR OF...

STRATFORD

UPON-AVON

Visit Stratford upon Avon to

catch a performance at

one of Shakespeare’s plays

or take a boat on the river.

DISTANCE

—

This 2 mile walk

takes about 45

minutes but

will of course

take longer if

you stop to take

photographs

or divert off it

to explore all

the curious and

historic sights

visible from the

NCE UPON A

Y

à

WHERE TO STAY

–

THE CHESTER

GROSVENOR

Built by the Duke of Westminster, this

five-star Chester hotel represents very

high standards of service. It also offers

valet-parking and a Michelin-starred

dining room with over 1000 wine labels.

Simon Radley at The Grosvenor.

Eastgate St, 01244 324024,

chestergrosvenor.com

–

ODDFELLOWS

With visually-stunning public rooms,

Oddfellows is a well-heeled counterculture

boutique hotel hidden behind

a sombre 19th century facade. Modern

bedrooms lie across a courtyard known

as The Secret Garden.

20 Lower Bridge Street, 01244 345454,

oddfellowschester.com

–

EDGAR HOUSE

Perhaps the most romantic hotel in

Chester is this luxury Georgian villa on

the city walls and overlooking the River

Dee. A sweeping staircase, working

fireplaces and lots of chandeliers

complete the blend of heritage and

luxury.

22 City Walls, 01244 347007,

edgarhouse.co.uk

–


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 09

ACROSS

9 Selling point for a seaside pad

(5,4)

10 Cambridgeshire site of a

wartime railway disaster (5)

11 Low density wood (5)

12 Scottish clan which produced

Rob Roy (9)

13 Sylvan Site of Special Scientific

Interest near Grewelthorpe,

North Yorkshire (8)

14 Miffs (6)

15 Birthplace of Formula One

champion Nigel Mansell (5-4-6)

19 The Continent (6)

20 Decreased (8)

23 Confused (2,1,6)

25 Those who are male must not

cut their hair (5)

27 Musically slow (5)

28 Rerun epic about immoderate

desire (9)

DOWN

1 Good spot for a picnic, like the

Tamar Valley (1,1,1,1)

2 "Cautionary Tales for Children"

writer (6)

3 One way to cut a sandwich (2,4)

4 Short video extract (4,4)

5 Oenologists' annual London

challenge (1,1,1,1)

6 Alienate (8)

7 Shakespearean theatre in

Southwark (3,5)

8 Incarcerated (10)

13 --- House, Guernsey home to

Victor Hugo (10)

16 Trainers trampled tracts of land (8)

17 Type of brandy (8)

18 1987 Kevin Costner/Gene

Hackman thriller (2,3,3)

21 Alleged Great Glen

lake-dweller (6)

22 Preference (6)

The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from

The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers)

with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box,

(thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel

Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire,

SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com

BOOKSHELF

We're reading...

Answers will be printed in the Autumn/Winter Issue out 4 September

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 08 | SPRING 2021

ACROSS: 1 Stopped 5 Ufology 9 Smooth 10 Triassic 11 Urquhart 12 Greedy

13 Recommends 15 Shad 16 Acts 18 Cohesively 21 Blazes 22 Mutinied 24

Aberdeen 25 Orange 26 Orphans 27 Stashed. DOWN: 2 Tamar 3 Profumo

4 Ephraim 6 Fridges 7 Lessees 8 Guildhall 10 Tutankhamun 14 Excalibur 17

Sizergh 18 Cistern 19 Sits out 20 Vandals 23 Eagle

W E LOVE

Take the slow road: England & Wales Inspirational Journeys round England and

Wales by Camper Van and Motorhome, Bloomsbury, £20 | Wild Swimming Walks 28

coast, lake and river days out, Waterstones, £14.99 | Treasure Island An inspiring

guide to 200 of Britain's most stunning and interesting islands, Bloomsbury, £18.99 |

Coasting Elise Downing was the youngest person and first female to run the coast of

Britain in 2016, Coasting is the story of her journey, Summersdale, £9.99

The new Mavericks collection from Millican. If you have

not yet heard of this sustainable backpack brand, and enjoy

everyday adventures, then you should check out their website

before you next lace up! The team are based from a farm at the

foot of Skiddaw in the Lake District National Park, and named

their company after a local legend, Millican Dalton who they

describe as "a maverick spirit, defined by fierce independence".

Smith The Roll Pack, as pictured, £140, homeofmillican.com


Unforgettable Cornwall Holidays

DISCOVER YOUR CORNISH GEM

Let Cornish Gems set the scene for your holiday highlife in Cornwall.

Choose from over 180 luxury holiday homes offering beautiful settings from groups of 2 to 20.

BEACH APARTMENTS • COUNTRY HOUSES • COASTAL COTTAGES • DOG FRIENDLY

www.cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

British Travel Journal | Summer 2021

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?