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ISSUE 66
27TH SEPTEMBER 2021
AJOY SAHU INTERVIEW . MODEL COACH ADVICE . UNDERRATED SNEAKER BUYS . DES O CONNORS MODELS
PAUL COSTELLOE . BORA AKSU . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MARK FAST . TIGER OF SWEDEN . AADNEVIK . LFW
THE LFW ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS
Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk
Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk
Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk
Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino
Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra
Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek
Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas
Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft, Thomas
Woods
Advertising inquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk
Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit
Contributors: Brechó Babado Fashion, Negah Anna, Edien Black, Wilson Vitorino, Latta Pathak, Karolina
Nowak, Janete Zenlinda, Tatiana Porembova Bridal, Hali London, Tarz London, Shoes by Larisa, Saint
Beth, Honey V Tiaras Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, Crystal Crafts Bouquets, Lahore Karahi Tooting, Alissa
Schrag, Dekaya Hewlett, Lois J Elise, Юлия Джемова, Ariadna Golubeva, Vera Lipunova, Artem Sigaev,
Saveliy Molchanov, Габриэль Оганян, Sofia Somova, Zarina And Marina Дарья Шевченко, Eva Cass,
Josephine Landry, Alison Leitao, Emma Lynch, Anne Marie Costantino, Julia McDonough, Charis
Michelsen, Ivie Akira, Ayla Imogen, Lacey Rae, Lara Jane, Scarlett, Stephany Ioana, Tylda, Vivienne
Monique, Ysabella Kristeen, Anne Wilkinson, Be Unique Be You, Ram Eagle, Elena Berezhnova, Maria
Konakova, Anastasia Gorishna, Enplanafro, Sarah Lily, Liudka, Ozoda Muminova, Kirsty Spence, Pawel
Majewski, Sandra Salamon, Klaudia Kotlarz, Katarzyna Kriger, Nikolina Holuk, Jagoda Biegala, Victoria
Tadej, Marta Chrostowska, Anna Guzak, Nell Malczuk
Special thanks to Ajoy Sahu, Dyelog PR, and Maxine Griffiths
Interested in working with us?
We currently have internships available in the following positions:
Staff Writers
Staff Illustrator
Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors
Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission
from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors
and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene
PAGE 1
CONTENTS
VISUALS
Bora Aksu
Edward Crutchley
Atelier Tammam
Paul Costello Presentation
No Flow Do Babad (Editorial)
Two Weddings (Cover Editorial)
Sirens (Editorial)
New Faces
Portfolio Piece: Red Children
Mark Fast
Tiger of Sweden
Aadnevik
Style (Conscious) Guide: Inspired
by LFW
Gowns N' Roses - Be Unique Be You
1 1
6
10
12
14
16
21
34
43
49
55
59
62
66
70
Africa Fashion Awards: Kande
Collection
La Dama Lingerie
Miss Polski UK & Ireland
WORDS
An Exploration into Our
Emotional Attachment to Clothes
Interview: Ajoy Sahu
Walk Talk: The Ins and Outs of
Model Training with Maxine
Griffiths
Beauty Expert, Author, and
Actress, Charis Michelsen Shares
How to Utilise the Hottest
Runway Fashion and Makeup
Trends to Maximise your Physical
Appeal
Alexander McQueen Romantic
Darkness
Underated Sneakers That You
Need for the Upcoming Season
112
114
116
4
15
30
51
67
81
U R Not Ur Emotions (Editorial)
Beauty Veil (Editorial)
Des O'Connors
Best of Both Boutique
83
89
94
102
Des O'Connors Live Catwalk
Auditions
Your Style Horoscope
The Most Iconic Supermodels of
All Time
93
104
118
London Accessory Week
108
The Big Question
121
Editor's
letter
LFW is back, back, back again! And this
time, we actually mean it. When we say
we were excited to get back to going to
shows, it’s like saying the Pope might
believe in God a little bit. In other
words, it’s just about the
understatement of the year.
every season, there are still things going
on all the time. That’s part of the fun of
living in London as a fashion fan! Make
sure to check those out: they might not
enjoy the same level of publicity and
hype, but small designers still have a lot
to say.
And if you doubted it at all, you
might not have seen the images from
the recent Met Gala. Everyone’s been
talking about AOC wearing THAT ‘tax
the rich’ dress – proof, if any was
needed, that fashion can be as
political as any creative discipline.
We have some live coverage from
events this issue, and we’ll bring you
even more in our next issue as well –
because there’s just too much goodness
to restrict it to the page count we’re
allowed! That includes designer
interviews and lots of gorgeous
photographs from our in-house team,
Fil, Ian, and MJ.
We’ve got some of the latest shows from
before fashion week for you as well:
even though the eyes of the world may
turn on our capital for a few days
Talking of having a lot to say, this issue
we explore the history of a dearly
departed designer whose collections
always reflected how he felt about the
world around him: Alexander McQueen.
You might wonder why we spend so
much time looking into the history of
fashion, when there's so much newness
happening all the time...
But, as we’ll see, fashion is much more
than a way of dressing – it’s a way to
interface with the world, expressing
yourself and your ideals.
We’ve plenty of inspiring looks
served up for you this issue, so get
stuck in and start fantasising about
your new post-lockdown wardrobe
(and let’s see if we really ARE postlockdown…
but that’s a whole other
topic!). As you do, consider what
your clothes can say to the world –
and remember that if you want to
wear your heart on your sleeve,
there’s no better way than to insist on
clothing that is both fashionable and
sustainable.
Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
PAGE 3
LONDON RUNWAY
AN EXPLORATION INTO OUR
EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT
TO CLOTHES
This issue, Katie Abson explores our
attachment to clothes and why letting
them go is so hard.
We all have that one item of clothing
that we just can’t let go of, no matter
how old, damaged, or dated. Even if
we know we’ll never wear it again –
we don’t have the heart to say
goodbye. Perhaps it’s the shirt we
wore on our first day of university.
Or maybe it’s an ex’s hoodie that still
smells faintly of their aftershave. We
hold on to christening dresses,
wedding gowns, leaver’s day
jumpers, and, theoretically, we’ll
never wear these pieces again. Some
of them might not even fit us
anymore. So, why do we hold on to
them? Why do we emotionally attach
ourselves to clothes? Why are they
so important to us?
We constantly revamp our
wardrobes to suit our evolving style
and latest trends, but most of us
simply don’t have the storage space
to keep every item of clothing we
purchase throughout the course of
our lives. The dreaded clear-out is a
must, particularly with the changing
seasons. It can be a great way to sell
clothes or donate to charity and to
clear space for our next fashion
season. Although the process can be
freeing and therapeutic, it can
equally be exhausting. Selecting
items to donate or throw away can
be painful, particularly when we feel
a certain attachment to them.
Memories, good and bad, are woven
into the fabric of our clothes, and
parting with a pair of beloved jeans
bought on holiday half a decade ago
can trigger an upsetting response,
despite how worn-out they are.
Because, to some people, it feels like
saying goodbye to that memory or
that part of their lives. When in
reality, they are just a pair of jeans
that are taking up space.
This response, although somewhat
seemingly irrational, is
psychologically very natural.
Studies have shown that our
emotional attachment to clothes
develops early in our childhood. As
early as the age of two, we may not
understand the concept of
ownership, but we certainly feel it.
This evolves into attachment, and
emotions such as jealousy and rage
can be felt in babies when that
object is taken away or given to
someone else. In our teenage years,
possessions begin to expand into a
sense of self and can help boost
self-esteem when confidence
begins to dwindle. As adults,
clothing can become an extension
of ourselves as we begin to
establish our personal style and the
way we present ourselves. Loss of
such items that we associate with
our sense of self can ignite pain
and unhappiness, our attachment
turning into an obsession with
finding what is lost. We are
psychologically wired to claim
objects as our own, later
establishing meaning behind what
belongs to us.
The same goes for holding onto
items once belonging to another
person. If that person is no longer
around or accessible to us, it can
feel as though we are keeping part
of that person with us in the
present day. Our senses are tuned
into clothing, such as touch and
smell, and being able to physically
touch something previously owned
by someone we loved can be the
closest thing we still have to them.
We feel connected to them in some
PAGE 4
LONDON RUNWAY
sort of way. When you really think
about it, it’s perfectly normal to want
to keep possession of such beloved
items.
Family heirlooms that pass through
generations have associations to people
we have never met formally in this
lifetime, but serve to provide us with a
connection to previous family
members. These heirlooms may come
from a time of war, struggle, love or
different countries. Textiles from a
certain time period and clothing made
by brands that no longer exist make us
cherish the item more, as we possess
something that cannot be purchased
anywhere else in the world.
Particularly when a piece of clothing or
jewellery is handmade, such as a
woollen jumper knitted by a great-aunt
or grandparent, the sentimentality for
that object grows deeply within us.
Materials that age well, such as leather,
appeal to us more than a newly bought
item. We search for such items in
vintage stores and charity shops as they
are more aesthetically pleasing to us.
A piece of clothing can go from
something you throw on casually in the
morning to an item you wish to cherish
by the end of the day, depending on the
events that follow. An old summer
dress can turn into the dress you get
engaged in. A satin fitted blazer can
become the item you land your dream
job in. The safekeeping of these clothes
is significant to us as they serve as
reminders of a monumental time in our
lives, and consequently develop into
our ‘lucky’ clothes. One item of clothing
can hold many meanings and
associations with wonderful memories.
We hold onto them as a reminder of
that time, but also in the hope of
repeating similar experiences when we
wear them again.
There is a multitude of reasons why we
find it hard to rid ourselves of clothing.
Memories are as powerful as the
physical object itself, especially when
the memory is heightened by vivid
emotions. There is a certain beauty in
the long-term possession of an item
enveloped with meaning and memory
recognised exclusively by the owner,
and the stories that come along with it.
But be warned – there is a difference
between emotional attachment and
using it as an excuse to hoard clothes!
At one point or another, we must give
in. We can’t keep every piece of
clothing we own forever. And the truth
is, someone might need it more.
So, if the dreaded clear-out is in your
schedule for winter, keep an open mind
when rummaging through your
wardrobe. And if something truly pains
you to let it go – keep it safe. You’ll be
reminded of happy memories when
you find it once again at the back of
your wardrobe in years to come.
Images via Pexels and Unsplash
PAGE 5
Photography by Fil MazzarinoBORA AKSU
LONDON RUNWAY
EDWARD
CRUTCHLEY
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
@the_mj_studio
PAGE 10
PAGE 11
ATELIER TAMMAM
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 12
PAGE 13
PAUL COSTELLOE
PRESENTATION
Photography by Ian Clark
PAGE 14
AJOY SAHU
Amber Johnson spoke to Ajoy Sahu
INTERVIEW
during their LFW presentation to
discover the inspiration behind their
latest shoe collection.
LR: Hello! It's so lovely to meet you,
thank you for having me. So what was
the inspiration behind the collection
and the whole show?
Ajoy Sahu: Actually, the whole brand is
based on the poppies. [The fitting and
construction] are all inspired by the
poppy seeds, you know, the seeds inside
the poppy pod when they dry out. And
when you see the construction shape,
it's kind of like a poppy silhouette with
the seed in it. So this is how we start
designing the shoe construction. With
the kitten heels, we always try to keep
the seeds shape and also in the flat. And
then slowly we evolve the whole
collection into more fluid line ideas. So,
it's based on the original construction to
evolve into all different types of fluid
lines to make very interesting patterns
on the foot. Then we got all these very
special custom made fittings. The poppy
seeds are the most important for our
brand. We’re kind of trying to keep the
whole brand's identity into the
construction, the same concepts.
Hopefully, in the future with the brand
in the market a lot more, even though
people don't know our name, they can
still recognise the shape.
LR: You need that element that stands
out that makes you different from
everyone else, that when you see that
you say "That's that brand!'.
Ajoy Sahu: Yeah, so this is the DNA and
also very unique for the brand.
LR: Did you have any difficulties during
the design process of the whole
collection?
Which really stressed me out. And also
the factory finished, like, a week before,
because we made everything in China.
And I have a production team in China
to help to control the development and
the production. And of course, because
of COVID, I can't really go back to China.
So I have to do limitless video meetings.
I get up really early every day to work
with China time. So, to just really push
the whole collection, because normally,
during the development period, I'll be in
China to develop the whole collection
with the team. Because of COVID I
didn't go back for two years. We really
broke through lots of challenges.
LR: But it makes it all worth it though?
Ajoy Sahu: Yeah. And luckily, we found
a really cool New York showroom to
represent the brand worldwide as well.
So it's really cool. I'm really excited.
LR: Was there anything that you would
have changed or would have done
differently with the collection? Or are
you happy with the outcome?
Ajoy Sahu: I'm really happy with the
outcome. But of course, if I can be there
to develop the production, it would be
really great.
LR: I think it's the perfectionist, you
want to be able to see every single
element of the design and the
construction.
Ajoy Sahu: ...and feel the material and
choose the materials as well.
Ajoy Sahu: Yes, definitely. Because it's
during COVID. So actually, all the
collections just arrived yesterday.
NO FLOW
DO BABAD
Wardrobe - Brechó Babado Fashion @brecho.babadofashion
Styling, model - Negah Anna @negahanna
Hair Stylist, model - Edien Black @edienblack
Photographer - Wilson Vitorino @wilsonvitorino
Accessories - EME Sunglasses @emesunglasses
Two Weddings
Photographer: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
MUAH: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah
Models: Karolina Nowak @karola3623_; Janete Zelinda @curlylioness
White Bridal gowns: Tatiana Porembova Bridal @tatianaporembovabridal
Red Bridal dress: Hali London @hali.hlondon; Tarz London @tarz_london
Shoes: Shoes by Larisa @shoesbylarisa
Jewellery: Saint Beth @saintbethofficial2; Honey V Tiaras @honeyvtiaras; Jayne Elizabeth Millinery @jayne.Elizabeth.Millinery
Crafts Bouquets and Candle: Crystal Crafts Bouquets @crystalcrafts_bouquets
Location - Lahore Karahi Tooting @lahorekarahitooting
LONDON RUNWAY
WALK TALK: THE INS AND OUTS OF MODEL
TRAINING WITH MAXINE GRIFFITHS
Jessica Carvalho explores the highs and
lows of model training, and just
what it takes to walk the walk, led by
model coach expert Maxine.
Fashion Week unearths a plethora of
things within me. Some of my best
outfits, a finetuned eye for upcoming
trends, and the staggering realisation
that there is a lot more to the modelling
industry than coordinated footfalls. It’s
often too easy to discredit models and
label their craft as simply walking, but
there is an entire blueprint to the art. So,
if you too want to brush up on your
modelling knowledge, I bring you
Maxine Griffiths: creative director,
events coordinator, model coach and
all-around cool girl who’ll give you a
taste of the world of model training.
How would you define The Model
Workshops and model training
to someone who isn't familiar with the
modelling industry?
The Model Workshops was created
initially to give the opportunity to
aspiring models who wanted to get into
the industry of catwalk. As you
know that doesn't always work for
everybody, and when I was trying to
get into the industry, I found that height
was a big problem. I was around
people that were already in the
industry, and I just sat under their wing
and just learned as much as I could
about walking, and because I was a
dancer as well, I mastered how to hold
my posture.
Getting into the industry and doing the
training, I devised the workshops
to educate. To give the opportunity to
those who may not have it or may
not even think that they can get onto a
runway. The opportunities I was
given once I mastered my walk are one
of the reasons why I started the
workshops. To put it simply, The Model
Workshops is there to help
aspiring models to understand their
walk and their posture.
How long have you been training
models and how was The Model
Workshops founded?
About 20 years, comfortably. I've been
training models for shows, events,
and doing lots of things with them,
getting them through [events]. The
Model Workshops was founded based
on a company that was called The
Platform Artist of The Stage, and it was
a place where people could come
in and use the stage for work, hobby,
interests, or just to gain experience.
After that, I looked at all of the elements
of what was on offer when I
started in the industry - anything to do
it, drama, music.
Back then, it wasn't deemed as a
profession, but lo and behold; 35 to 40
years later, people actually have this as a
career! We've got actors,
influencers, singers, dancers doing not
just the stuff that they love but
also what they’re talented at. I
formulated the workshops thinking
they need to be open to a lot of people
who want to understand the stage,
platforms, and runway for an
educational purpose. Not enticing you
with the glitz and glam, but giving you
realistic experience, realistic situations
that may occur, learning what the
runway is, learning terminologies,
learning speech, and the right words.
You might not know what a portfolio
is, what does it mean to have a deck - a
lot of girls and guys, they don't actually
know, especially if they're new into the
industry! I see the workshops as a safe
space that you can work within, get
experience, get hands on [help] from the
professionals I collaborate with, so you
can get to the next level if you want to.
I was going to say that it's really nice to
have a safe space, especially for starting
models.
That’s what I’m about, safe spaces.
Having safe having spaces that you
PAGE 30
can go into with no experience or as
much experience, and you can share
knowledge knowing that everybody
will be up to the same level, and
nobody will know more than someone
else. Otherwise, you'd come in
thinking that you know it all and not
actually assume you're coming to
learn; you’re coming to take away
something that you can implement
practically and realistically into your
next step on your journey within the
industry.
Would you say model training is “one
size fits all” or is it a is a
tailored experience important?
A tailored experience for me is
important, very tailored. That's one of
the elements that we have; our more
intense workshops like Runway Ready,
Own It for Yourself, I came up with the
content that goes within it. No two
people walk the same. No two models
walk the same.
I've just recently finished working with
Des O'Connor on his live catwalk
auditions, and I found that even then,
we had so many women from
different walks of life, some who never
graced the catwalk before or did
anything like that prior. [The workshops
are] about allowing them to
understand how to walk confidently,
how to own a room when you go into
it, how to put on a pair of 4’5-inch heels
and be able to stay in them for
longer than an hour. To be able to get
your heels out and express yourself
because, as women, we all like a pair of
shoes.
The day and age that we live in now is
so fast paced that someone can
present photos on Instagram, get a few
likes, and then suddenly, they
think based on their looks or great
figure, that's going to lead them to the
job. A lot of girls don’t like to do the
training because they think they've
got enough experience, but in certain
parts of the industry, you really
have to put the hard work in.
Everything needs teachers, none of us
know everything, and I had to sit under
some really good gurus and teachers to
even be where I am today.
With that said, have you witnessed an
opinion change at the workshops? For
example, someone who came in
expecting it to be useless, but leaving
with a completely different opinion?
Hell yeah! People have come in thinking
this was really simple, and then
they’d say “I never knew walking could
be so hard”, and I'm thinking yes!
Some people have it naturally, but
everybody can always do with a brush
up. It's like most things in life, but look
at any model whatsoever; look at
what they do behind the scenes.
We’ve gotten so used to wearing
trainers and chilling out that people
don't dress up anymore. With
The Model Workshops, I have a tailormade
package for every individual
that comes through the door. I take my
time, I look at them, and we just
work it through; I guarantee that
anybody that attends one of the
workshops will definitely come out
walking a lot taller than they came in.
Do you think there are a lot of
misconceptions about the hard
work that goes into model training both
for the trainer and the trainee?
Not just model training, anything! If you
want to be a scientist, somebody's going
to have to teach you the ins and outs
and the mechanics of it. If you want to
become a doctor, you will go to the
necessary colleges, complete the
training.
They have eating and fitness regimes,
they have things that they do to make
sure that they stay on top of their
game. You're not always going to see it,
and it's not always posted - though I
think more recently you kind of see
what a lot of the high end [models] are
doing behind the scenes - even down to
their make-up. Some girls don’t know
how to do their make-up, and you
should know how to do the basics. I
sometimes just feel that a lot of those
stepping into the industries of fashion,
music, and entertainment don't feel they
have to put any work, that it’s just based
on looks and likes. But, disappointment,
heartbreak, it’s all part of the
experience.
Like most fields of work, it doesn’t
sound like a linear growth at all.
Tears, lots of tears. Lots of
disappointment, lots of rejection. When
you get that kind of rejection, you think
“oh, I don't want to do this anymore, I
can't do it”, but there's always
somebody somewhere that can see
potential, it just depends on how hard
you work. There are models that
I've met, and I thought “three to four
months with me and by the time I’m
finished with you, I'll have you walking
certain shows”. You can get testimonials
- even this season, a young lady hadn’t
walked in two years since we've been in
lockdown and I got to witness her walk,
and it's just nice to see when the girls get
to another level. I can actually tell the
difference of those that had been
trained. Those taking the time to be
coached and those that have taken time
to be trained, coached, and mentored
through their journey until they get to a
point where they think “I've taken all
the help I could, I'm ready to go to the
next stage, and I can do that on my
own”.
How did being trained shape your
career?
I knew I wanted to do performing arts,
and I took my time and wanted to
learn about everything; from
production, lighting, to set design and
sound. I just wanted to learn it all, some
people only like one element of the
fashion shows and it’s the one that we
usually see. But there's so much that
goes on behind the scenes, like with
London Fashion Week, what you
see in the magazines, on music videos;
there are such great people
behind the scenes really putting their
hard work in, and some of the time
they don’t even get paid their rates. I
find it quite sad because some of
these companies have the budget to
help people but choose not to at all,
even though these people are
indispensable to the industry.
Take me through a day of training;
what can be expected from the moment
training with you begins, right until the
end?
I’d be giving away my secrets!
If it's all day, we have courses which are
broken down into series. They range
from Handle Your Heels, which is one
of my favourites because it is for
women and men, with no restrictions
on height, gender, or race - just bring
your heels and make sure they’re over
four inches. There's something about
when you put your shoes on before you
leave the house and you just feel
dressed, you feel complete. That's one of
the other reasons why I created Handle
Your Heels, because I just feel there is
a level of empowerment that comes
with wearing a pair of heels, your shoes
are fantastic, your bag, your clothing.
When I was developing the
course, I looked at how I how I wanted
to feel if I was coming along, what
is the journey I want to take people on,
so at the end of the three and a
half hours that we were together, you
leave with something you can
implement into the rest of your journey.
I also have Feel Like a Woman, Walk
Like a Boss. That's more for
empowering women to be bosses in
their own right, but also maintain
their morals, have integrity, know that
you're strong enough to do it but
also weak enough to stay feminine at
the same time. I don’t mean this in
a derogative way, but female
empowerment sometimes is very “I can
do all this by myself”, but the truth is
that need your community. No man is
an island, as my parents always said.
PAGE 32
Apart from getting these models further
in their career, what is
the most fulfilling part of model training
for you?
Their success is my success. After the
training session with me, having the
coaching and the mentoring, I know
that when they step into an arena,
they are walking comfortably and
walking proud knowing that they’ve got
this, so that means I've been successful.
Though training is very good for
finetuning skills, do you think it
is an essential step towards success or
can it be skipped (due to financial issues,
lack of time etc.)?
Anything that anybody wants out of life,
you’ll make time for. We can always use
the excuse of “I don't have the time” or
“financially, I can't”, and I understand it
with coming out of a lockdown into a
new normal, but if you want to be as
good as you can be, or you want to be
the best at what you are doing, you will
make time. It will then determine your
commitment, level of experience,
professionalism, and everything else
that comes with the industry.
Do you have any words of
encouragement for models hoping to
get into training?
Come and see me! To date, I don’t know
of any other woman that is doing
what I do; training is an integral part of
success in this industry, and often
I see a lot of flaws as a consultant
myself. The big agencies can only take
a certain number of models of colour,
models with ginger hair; training will
ensure that they see you as someone
worth their while, and someone
worth representing them. Training will
get your foot in the door.
So, should you itch for a heaped
spoonful of female empowerment with
a sprinkle of first-class discipline, let me
know. I know just who to call.
You can find more of Jessica’s work on
her Instagram @whatjesstypes.
Follow Maxine on Instagram
@the_model_workshops for castings,
advice, and news about upcoming
sessions.
What are some things that models
trained by you went on to do?
Magazines, videos, large Fashion Week
shows in Paris, Milan, New York.
Since we had the Black Lives Matter
movement, as a British-born black
woman, I feel we have a lot more
visibility we didn't have before. I'm
actually seeing people in adverts, doing
things and I'm thinking “Yep, remember
you when you came”, and I’m genuinely
very happy and excited to see where it
goes from here.
Just being part of what happened
in the past two years and part of the
Windrush generation as well, watching
the work that my parents put in all
those years ago so that we could have a
say; it's amazing to witness people that
have gone on and on to be better, be
greater and have the time of their life on
the runway of life.
The doors that don’t open, you kick
them open!
Sirens
Accessory Designer/Other/Fashion Designer/Retoucher/Photographer: Eva Cass @evamaedesigns
Models: Josephine Landry @josie.landry; Alison Leitao @alileitao; Emma Lynch @emma.lynch
Assistant: Anne Marie Costantino @anniecostaa21
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Photographer: Julia McDonough @mcdonoughjulia
All wardrobe by Eva Cass
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, jewellery - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Emma wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, and concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded, hand-dyed suit - Eva Cass
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ALISSA
Name: Alissa Schrag
Age: 19
Location: Switzerland/Zurich
Agency: Freelance (Muse of Marti)
Agent: Christoph Marti
How long have you been modelling
for?
My "career" as a model started at the
beginning of the year. I was contacted
by various photographers for shoots
via Instagram and then had the
opportunity to work with Robert
Ramseier in Switzerland. Now I have
about 5 photo shoots which I can list
as experience - but there are many
great projects planned. Being in front
of the camera has always been a big
dream of mine.
Where are you from originally?
I grew up and was born in beautiful
Switzerland in the middle of Europe.
Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick?
Besides modelling, painting is one of
my great passions. I have discovered
this talent and can no longer let my
fingers from brushes. When painting I
can give free rein to my creativity.
Therefore, I also like modelling - I am
a very artistic person
What would surprise people to know
about you?
I am a very determined and focused
person. When I set my mind on
something, I want to achieve it.
Whether it's modelling or my passion
of drawing where I can work without
problems 7 hours at a time to get the
right result. In addition, I am someone
who can talk well.
What are your modelling ambitions?
My goal would be to have a range.
Since one month I am the muse of
Christoph Marti - the Swiss
photographer - and I want to work
out a way with him to become better
known. The next steps are certainly
magazine publications that will come
in the next few months and my
dreams are to be a cover photo on
Vogue or on big ads.
Studio: Studio 1
Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti
Model: Alissa @chupxcabra
Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé
Alissa wears: Diesel; The Kooples; Dolce & Gabbana
PAGE 44
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: DEKAYA
Name: Dekaya Hewlett
Age: 19
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Agency: Pama Models
How long have you been modelling
for?
I’ve been modeling for 2 months.
Where are you from originally?
I’m originally from Huntsville,
Alabama.
Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick?
My unusual talent is being myself,
that simple quality isn’t normalized in
today’s society.
What would surprise people to know
about you?
People will be surprised to know I
graduated high school at 16 at the top
of my class.
What are your modelling ambitions?
I’m very ambitious about being in
Vogue one day.
Hair Stylist: Pretty Dolls Collection @prettydolls.collection
Makeup Artist: Makemiup @makemiup
Model: Dekaya Hewlett at Pama Models @xjunodkaayy_
Photographer: Pama Models @pamamodels
PAGE 46
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: LOIS
Name: Lois J Elise
Age: 29
Location: London
Agency: Unique Models London
How long have you been modelling
for?
3 years
Where are you from originally?
Windsor, UK
Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick?
I can speak Japanese! I have studied
the language since I was 13.
What would surprise people to know
about you?
I have a PhD in Japanese cinema and
fashion history, and am also a
qualified passenger boat captain.
What are your modelling ambitions?
I want my modelling to inspire others
to enjoy fashion and to feel
comfortable in their own skin - I am a
passionate body positivity advocate.
Lois wears: Headband - France Luxe; Dress - Vixen by Micheline Pitt;
Sunglasses - Gucci; Watch - Fitbit; Scarf on bag, silver ring and pearls -
True Vintage Ootd; Pearl ring - Ray Makes Things; Bag - Thrifted
PAGE 48
RED CHILDREN
It is important for me to fall in love with heroes
during photography, otherwise you can't get sincere
shots. I like to photograph children and old people -
both are most open and do not seek to pose.
In my works, I strive to show what is always with us,
but at the same time, it is closed and not given
importance - hugs, family values, belonging to
culture, children's games and memories.
Wardrobe Stylist: Юлия Джемова @julia_jam__
Models: Ariadna Golubeva at Mint Models Russia
@arish_goly; Vera Lipunova @lipunovavera; Artem
Sigaev @artem_sigaev; Saveliy Molchanov
@come.on.savva; Габриэль Оганян @gabriellife26;
Sofia Somova @sofia_somova_; Zarina And Marina
@goldentwins.13
Photographer: Дарья Шевченко @chuda.photo
portfolio
piece
LONDON RUNWAY
BEAUTY EXPERT, AUTHOR, AND ACTRESS
CHARIS MICHELSEN SHARES HOW TO UTILIZE
THE HOTTEST RUNWAY FASHION AND MAKEUP
TRENDS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR PHYSICAL APPEAL
Big lips were in, and lip liner encircled
Ah, the runway show experience —
inspirational, on-point street style
outside of show venues, the veritable
hyper-stylish elite clocking fellow
stars, the active buzz of top hair and
makeup artists behind-the-scenes as
gorgeous creatures sip champagne and
pick at delicacies while being painted
and coiffed, the hush as the lights shift,
the music pumps, cameras flash, and
the thrilling future of what could
change closets, requests at salons, and
contents of makeup bags is revealed.
For many years, this was the runway
show experience, until things changed
and created an opportunity to
creatively rethink what a runway
show could be. Even when formats
changed and digital shows became
commonplace, the passionate vision
for forecasting the future of fashion
and beauty did not. Designers, those
fine artists who hang their art on the
human canvas, reliably refuse to
compromise showcasing their
creations to the max— thank God.
However, after the show, their visions
should be translated into what is
suitable for each individual to ensure
that physical appeal is maximized.
Understanding what inspires trends,
such as those from past decades, can
give great insight into how to best
creatively utilise them to enhance
physical appeal; one can and should
cherry pick or twist elements of a
trend so it can be personalised.
In a review of current trends, the
nineties are making a reappearance
but with unique and modern twists. In
the 1990s, grunge, glamour, and
minimalism collided head-on, and just
as during the 1960s, when the spirit of
anything goes was the practiced belief,
the 1990s employed a similar attitude,
especially when it came to selfexpression,
individuality, and “just
being who you are.”
the outer perimeter of the lips to help
them appear larger. A more subdued
and neutral colour palette became
standard as “the natural look” came
into style. Eyeliner and eye colours
were soft and subtle. Skin went from
being matte-textured to more natural
and shiny, with shiny giving way to
glittery, funky, and fun everything.
“Heroin chic” and the “waif-look”
were brought in by model Kate Moss,
and emulated, playing a big part in the
decade. Several cosmetic companies
answered the call for the need for
more funky makeup and nail colours.
Small breasts gave way to all sizes of
breasts being in, and a hint of the looks
from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1960s made
their appearance during the decade.
Another decade that is trending, for
the obvious reason, is the twenties. In
the 1920s, short skirts, short hair, and
rebellion were in. Wearing makeup
was taboo before then; however, by
the 1920s, no one fashionable left
home without wearing it.
Pale skin was in, and raspberry or
orange-hued rouge toned down with
facial powder was worn on the cheeks.
The eyes and eyelashes were heavily
defined with dark eye makeup which
was used on the lower eyelash line and
eyelids, as was turquoise or green. The
famous cupid’s bow-shaped lips,
which were permanently pursed in a
“kiss”, inspired by the actress Clara
Bow, were drawn on the lips in reds,
deep reds, brown-reds, plum, oranges,
LONDON RUNWAY
DRESS: Jil Sander Silk Dress In Style RN.
104642 - CA 34767
BELT: Dior Black Belt
NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro In
Baby Love
MAKEUP:
EYES: Dior Backstage - Custom Eye Palette,
Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer In
920/Black Orchid, Milk Makeup KUSH High
Volumizing Mascara
EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge
CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars
Blush In Orgasm
LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip
Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Bobbi
Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In
Pink, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip
Color In Brown
rose, and raspberry in matte-textures.
These products would often be soapbased
and dry out the lips. Liquid
rouge defined the lip shape, like an
early lip liner, and lip colour filled in
the lips. Eyebrows were drawn on in
thin, dark, arched, elongated, and
downward-sloped thin or odd shapes
denoting emotional expression.
Fashion hero Coco Chanel was a
powerful influence in the 1920s and
ushered in the healthy look of a tan,
amongst other style-changing trends.
Orange makeup mimicked the look of
a tan, and legs and smaller breasts
were in.
Besides knowing the history behind a
trend, to pull from it what personally
resonates and inspires, physical
attributes, such as skin undertone,
facial features, and their balance, as
well as personal style are also
important to examine to know how to
best use a trend to one’s advantage. To
determine your facial attributes, view
the videos DISCOVER YOUR FACE
SHAPE, ACHIEVE MAXIMUM
PHYSICAL APPEAL USING FACIAL
DIVISIONS, and others on the CHARIS
MICHELSEN YouTube channel.
For example, if a trending colour does
not work well for your skin’s
undertone and you want to wear it, try
a version of that colour that better
suits you. If orange is trending, and
your skin’s undertone is cool, try
wearing red-orange or red instead of
orange. If bright lip colours are
trending and you look better in darker
lip colours, try mixing a favorite
darker colour with a bright colour that
works well with your skin’s
undertone.
This goes for the placement of
cosmetics as well. If you have closespaced
eyes and it is trending to
encircle the eyes with eyeliner, bypass
applying the eyeliner to the inner
upper and lower third of your eyes or
only apply light colours of eyeliner to
this area.
There is a science to looking one’s best,
which was perfected through the
world’s first Universal Beauty
Standard System which was used to
create the illustrated and
comprehensive beauty books
Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star
Makeup and Grooming For Men: From
Dirty to polished. These books instruct
on how to look your personal best by
PAGE 52
using easy-to-follow cosmetic
techniques and offering original tips,
such as the timeless “four-point rule”
to ensure your maximum physical
appeal is achieved no matter what is
trending on the runway.
The following is an excerpt about the
“four-point rule” from Hollywood
Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup:
THE FOUR-POINT RULE:
Count each “point of interest” as one
point.
NOTE: You can choose to wear fewer
“points of interest” than four but not
more than four if you do not want to
look overstated. If garments of the
same colour are worn together as if
they are one continuous piece, their
point total would equal one.
For example, if you wear boots, pants,
and a top in the same colour of bright
orange, where there are no breaks in
colour, where you do not see skin or
another colour, those pieces working
together would equal one point.
“POINTS OF INTEREST”:
A viewer’s eyes are drawn to look at:
1: Vibrant makeup.
2: Dark makeup.
3: Light-reflective makeup or opaque
matte-textured makeup (other than a
concealer, foundation, or powder).
4: Hairstyles that appear “done”/any
hairstyle that requires hairspray or
another product to hold it in place, etc
5: Busy patterns of clothing or clothing
that contains embellishments or
ornate details, such as multiple
zippers, ruffles, etc.
6: Articles of clothing that are
revealing.
7: Shoes, clothing, and/or accessories
in bold “statement” colours, such as
red, etc.
8: Accessories in general, such as hats,
bracelets, etc.
MAKEUP:
Both makeup “LOOK #2” and “LOOK
#3” count as one point. The point of
interest will be your lips in “LOOK #2”
and your eyes in “LOOK #3.” “LOOK
#1” counts as zero points, as the face
has no points of interest. NOTE:
“LOOK #4” counts as two points, as
your lips and eyes are both points of
interest. See chapter THE FOUR BASIC
FACES for additional information.
EXAMPLE 1:
You can wear a bold ruffled blouse (+1
point), simple blue jeans (+0 points),
brightly coloured shoes (+1 point), a
statement ring (+1 point), a simple
black handbag (+0 points), and makeup
LOOK #2 (+1 points) = 4 points.
Variation example:
If you want to wear a bold handbag (+1
point), choose to wear makeup LOOK
#1 (+ 0 points) = 4 points.
EXAMPLE 2:
You can wear a simple black dress (+0
points), simple black pumps (+0
1920s Makeup
1990s Makeup
THE FOUR-POINT
RULE: EXAMPLE 2
(From The Book
Hollywood Beauty:
The Art Of Star
Makeup By Charis
Michelsen)
points), a colourful clutch (+1 point),
layered, bold necklaces (+1 point), a
bold bracelet (+1 point), and makeup
LOOK #3 (+1 point) = 4 points.
Variation example:
Trade the simple black dress for a
patterned one (+ 1 point), and take off
the necklaces (+ 0 points) = 4 points.
Stick with the “Four Point Rule” and
add up your points. By not exceeding
four “points of interest” at any given
time, you will always look your best.
Also, consider the inspiration for a
runway trend and your personal
needs when styling the fabulous you.
More information and examples
available in Hollywood Beauty: The
Art of Star Makeup by Charis
Michelsen.
In forecasting the future of fashion
and beauty, the vote is for the
maximization of one’s physical appeal
and consciousness will always be in
style— the more one chooses healthy
and cruelty-free fashion and cosmetic
products, the better. Some
inspirational style icons who have
made fashion and beauty their own,
no matter the trends, are Gabrielle
Coco Chanel, Jacklyn Kennedy
Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Jimi
Hendrix, Ali MacGraw, Steve
McQueen, David Bowie, Tom Ford,
Sarah Jessica Parker, and Victoria
Beckham. Remember that following
runway trends is not mandatory.
If you love a specific look, and it is not
“in” at the moment, do not let that
deter you from embracing it; at some
point, you might be the one starting a
hot new trend that will be seen on the
runway!
For more information and to view
videos from Charis Michelsen, be sure
to like, subscribe, or follow her on her
social media channels:
YouTube channel: CHARIS
MICHELSEN
Instagram: @charismichelsen_official
TikTok: charismichelsen_official
Facebook: official.charismichelsen
Twitter: OfficialCharisM
Official Website: charismichelsen.com
How to contact Charis Michelsen:
AGENT: Sheila Finegan
sheila@trinityartist.com
MANAGER: Jeff Smith
jeff@trinityartist.com
PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel Weber
@danielweber_photography
MODEL, MAKEUP, STYLING: Charis
Michelsen @charismichelsen_official
HAIR: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton
Salon Of Beverly Hills @hairbysylvie
ARTWORK: Charis Michelsen (From
The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art
Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)
charismichelsen.com
THE FOUR-POINT RULE:
EXAMPLE 1
(From The Book Hollywood
Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup
By Charis Michelsen)
LONDON RUNWAY
MARK FAST Photography
by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 55
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 56
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 57
PAGE 58
LONDON RUNWAY
TIGER OF
SWEDEN
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 59
PAGE 60
PAGE 61
AADNEVIK
Photography by Ian Clark
PAGE 62
PAGE 63
PAGE 64
STYLE
(CONSCIOUS)
GUIDE
ethical and sustainable style guide
selected by Cicilia Brognoli
Matches Fashion
Sequinned
cropped top
£430.00
Rejina Pyo
Volume Hoops Gold
Plated with Blue Enamel
£195.00
Browns Fashion
Fauna Floral
Print Dress
£220.00
Mother of Pearl
Esther black daisy
dress
£395.00
Molly Goddard
Sendai Bag Red Pink
£420.00
Matches Fashion
Asymmetric wool
and lurex sweater
dress
£1,170.00
Rejina Pyo
Hattie Dress
Organic Cotton
Print Flower Amber
£650
Browns Fashion
Fleur Lace Maxi Dress
£650.00
H&M Conscious
shaping swimsuit
£24.99
Yuhan Wang
AISTE rose lace tiered
skirt
£529.00
Erdem
Small Crystal Knot
Clip Earrings
£295.00
Molly Goddard
Jimmy Dress Pink
£1,300.00
Rejina Pyo
Malia Sandals
Leather Orange
£395.00
INSPIRED BY LFW
PAGE 66
Yuhan Wang
Draped jacquard trousers
£510.00
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ROMANTIC DARKNESS
This month, Cicilia illustrates the
history of one of the most famous
British fashion houses, Alexander
McQueen. Many of you probably
know this name very well. For those
who have recently landed on the
fashion planet, this brand’s fame
spiked as their oversized trainers
were the most popular womenswear
item in 2019.
Lee Alexander McQueen, founder of
the eponymous company, was born
in 1969 in Lewisham. His father was a
Scottish taxi driver who instilled in
him a deep love for his homeland,
and his mother was a social science
teacher. In addition to Scotland, one
of his passions and artistic
inspirations was birds. In fact, as a
young man, he was a member of the
Young Ornithologists' Club.
McQueen was not very keen on
school, and at the age of sixteen, he
dropped out to devote himself to
tailoring. He immediately landed in
the famous Saville Row by chance or
talent, where he did an
apprenticeship. Between the ages of
sixteen and twenty, he had many
work experiences. For example, he
worked as a theatrical costumier for
Angels and Bermans, where he
created the costumes for the Les
Misérables show. After that, he
moved to Milan working for Romeo
Gigli and later returned to attend
Central Saint Martins.
In fact, given his innate talent, he
coveted the position of pattern
cutter tutor; however, he was too
young to teach. In 1992 he enrolled
in an MA. His graduation
collection, called Jack the Ripper
Stalks His Victims, was a reckless
success. In fact, the stylist Isabella
Blow bought all the outfits. She had
a massive influence on the future
success of the British designer; she
persuaded him to use his middle
name, Alexander. This was a
marketing strategy and, at the same
time, a trick to prevent the job
centre he was affiliated with from
finding out he was working. Blow
was a mentor for Alexander
McQueen, and she offered him her
home basement. According to her,
this would have given Alexander a
safe working and living space
without struggling financially and
losing his focus on fashion.
PAGE 67
LONDON RUNWAY
Creating a stir seemed like a hobby
for McQueen, who was later accused
of exalting slavery, sexualising
women, and being a lover of horror.
After the first few years of
controversy, McQueen landed in
the graces of musical celebrities.
He designed the wardrobe for
David Bowie's 1997 tour, which
includes the Union Jack coat. He
also worked with Björk, directing
her music video 'Alarm Call' and
designing a topless dress.
McQueen initially took inspiration for
all of his collections from famous
films. Taxi Driver, his first postgraduation
collection, was based on
Martin Scorsese's film. This was a real
success, as it introduced the 'bumsters',
also known as low-rise jeans.
McQueen's runways have always been
bold and provocative. So, it's not a
coincidence that he was called 'the
hooligan of English fashion'. The
designer, creative but with a complex
personality, presented the fashion
show Nihilism featuring models
covered with fake blood and bruises.
In 1994, McQueen met Katy England
and decided to make her his righthand
man, or rather his adviser. The
first collection they worked on
together was The Birds, a roadkill
themed catwalk featuring tire marks,
paying homage to Alfred Hitchcock's
film. McQueen's fame, a
misunderstood genius, collected many
negative reviews over the first years.
However, his fame spiked when
Madonna wore her 'bumsters' jeans in
an MTV advert in 1994.
At the age of thirty, McQueen was
named Head of Design for
Givenchy, following the departure
of John Galliano. The Count Hubert
de Givenchy was by no means
happy with this, considering
McQueen utterly inappropriate for
his fashion house. McQueen's
debut for Givenchy was with the
Spring / Summer 1997 collection, a
homage to ancient Greece. As
refined as it was, teeming with
white and gold, it differed from
Galliano's lavish collections.
Fake blood appeared very often on
McQueen's catwalks. In fact,
Highland Rape, a collection aimed at
exposing Scotland's 'rape' at the
hands of England, was a mix of fake
blood and torn apart clothes.
Unfortunately, not everyone
understood the show's true
meaning, and McQueen was accused
of misogyny as many thought it
referred to the rape of women.
LONDON RUNWAY
Back in London, he designed the It's a
Jungle out There collection, inspired
by gazelles daily hunted by lions. He
empathised a lot with these savannah
victims. Although he felt oppressed by
the fashion industry with its negative
reviews on his past collections, the
new one was a success. He rode the
wave of positive reviews and started
to play a lot also with set design.
Indeed, his Spring/Summer 1998
collection, Untitled, was presented on
a catwalk made of water and yellow
lights, while the next one had a
masked model standing in a circle of
fire.
McQueen didn't actually leave
Givenchy peacefully; in fact, he was
fired. In 2000, he signed an
agreement with Gucci selling 51% of
his own company. The Italian and
French brands were rivals, and for this
reason, Givenchy dismissed him.
This was the only strategy to revive
Alexander McQueen's brand, which
soon opened boutiques worldwide,
expanding to perfume, eyewear
accessories, and menswear. With
considerable financial backing from
Gucci, McQueen continued with his
bold and provocative runways.
His last public appearance was
during the Paris Fashion Week in
February 2009, when he presented
Plato's Atlantis collection. The show
was supposed to be broadcast live
on the internet, but the site crashed
when Lady Gaga tweeted about the
upcoming show.
McQueen had a twisted personality,
often felt misunderstood by others,
and was almost pathologically
introverted. He committed suicide,
as did his mentor Isabella Blow who
died in 2007, at his home in Mayfair
in 2010.
At the time, he only had very few
uncompleted pieces for his
Autumn/Winter 2010 collection,
which were finished by his team.
A handful of fashion editors attended
that show and then reported how
creepy it was to perceive McQueen's
obsession with the afterlife just by
observing those sixteen outfits.
Gucci's financial support ensured the
continuation of the brand and by
Sarah Burton, McQueen's assistant,
who was appointed Creative Director.
Burton designed Catherine
Middleton's wedding dress and won
the prize Designer of the Year during
the 2011 British Fashion Awards.
Although McQueen's ready-towear
is now much more famous
than his first runways, I
recommend you to check out the
incredible shows created by
McQueen himself. His shows'
setting was not just a contour to his
clothes but an externalisation of
the designer's disturbances and
obsessions that could not be
recreated in fabric and
haberdashery.
You can find more of Cicilia's
works by visiting
ciciliabrognoli.com
Images by Cicilia Brognoli from the
Roses exhibition held in the
Alexander McQueen flagship store
in Bond Street from November
2019 to May 2020.
GOWNS N' ROSES
BY BE UNIQUE BE YOU
Models: Ayla Imogen; Ivie Akira; Lacey Rae; Lara Jane; Scarlett; Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana;
Tylda; Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Ysabella Kristeen
Designer: Anne Wilkinson - Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou
Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks - @ram.eagle
Location: Historic Rose Garden, Southsea - Portsmouth
UNDERRATED SNEAKERS THAT YOU NEED
FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON
9: New Balance MADE UK 991
7: Converse x Ambush CTAS Duck Boot
This week, Thomas Woods details the
best big brand ‘under the radar’
sneakers that will compliment your
autumn and winter wardrobes- whilst
also saving you some pennies.
With streetwear at its highest point of
popularity, everybody wants the latest
and greatest sneakers, which often leads
to the newest releases being hard to
come by. From the front runners such
as Nike and Adidas, to the low profilers
like New Balance and Converse, this list
is what you need to track down those
must-haves. Being a shoe lover myself, I
have compiled the 10 best value for
money unisex sneakers that these
leading shoe brands have to offer for
the upcoming autumn and winter
period.
QUICK TIP: For the best prices on all
these shoes, make sure to check out if
there are any discount codes available
(especially if you’re a student).
(Price): £170.00
(Colourway): green/wine/yellow
With the emergence of the ‘dad’ shoe,
New Balance made its triumphant
return. This chunky 991 was
“constructed for comfort and style”,
with its warm earth tones perfectly
matching the autumnal changing of the
leaves. The shoe’s suede upper adds to
this warm appearance overall and I
believe this would be a great addition to
your collection if you’re willing to
spend a bit extra.
(Price): £84.97
(Colourway): white/black
If we are talking durability, this shoe
goes top of the list. This 2020 release
combines the Converse name with
established luxury brand Ambush to
produce a high-top boot, made up of a
combination of mesh material for
comfort as well as a leather bottom for
durability. At half its original price, this
boot would add a bit of luxury to your
winter wardrobe whilst also not setting
you back too far. It also comes in a
bright blue colourway if you’re feeling
more adventurous!
10: Adidas Originals Samba Vegan Shoes
(Price): £70.00
(Colourway): cloud white/core
black/gum
Nothing like bringing something back, is
there? This classic Adidas silhouette
goes back to 1949 and has been everpresent
since, with the shoe slowly
beginning to re-emerge as a fashionable
favourite for both men and women.
With this planet-friendly iteration, you
get the classic shape and those timeless
three stripes all along with a neutral
colour palette that goes with absolutely
everything. For £70, I think this is a
reliable choice for the upcoming
autumn period.
8: Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage
(Price): £89.95
(Colourway): white/black
A product of the 1970s, the Nike Blazer
Mid ’77 Vintage was originally tested as
a basketball sneaker but eventually
became a staple lifestyle shoe. As a
potential high-top replacement for the
overpriced Jordan 1 silhouette, this shoe
matches with almost anything and will
be certain to keep your ankles warm in
winter. At £90, I think this is a shoe well
worth having... just make sure to use
shoe protector to keep them looking
brand new!
6: Converse Color Vintage Canvas
Chuck 70
(Price): £75.00
(Colourway): deep
bordeaux/egret/black
Not much needs to be said about this
all-time classic shoe... it really is the
definition of timeless. The adaptable
high-top sneaker comes in at sixth place
in a plum-like colourway with an aged
cream bottom. The richness of the
darkish red is bound to integrate
perfectly into your autumnal colour
palettes, and with the lower price-point,
it’s a no-brainer!
PAGE 81
LONDON RUNWAY
2. Nike Lahar Low
(Price): £114.95
(Colourway):
hemp/grain/orange/smoke
5: Nike Free Run Trail
(Price): £109.95
(Colourway): driftwood, white & black
A slightly left of centre choice, the Nike
Free Run Trail is a comfort-based shoe
that is perfect for those on the go. Nike
combines an airy mesh upper with a
light brown suede and a foam midsole
to create a sneaker that will last you
through the autumn and winter months.
The colourway is one of my favourites
on this list as it combines shades of
brown and orange with a crisp white,
which certainly offers solid autumnal
vibes. A higher price point is a
downside, but the comfort it provides is
unmatched.
4: Nike Dunk High
(Price): various
(Colourway): navy/white
This may be a shoe that many expected
not to be on this list considering its high
popularity. Over the last year, Nike have
released an array of Dunk High
colourways, with the ‘Championship
Navy’ edition being one of its most
slept-on pairs. It offers a high-top
alternative to more common silhouettes
and has a clean, neutral colour balance
that would pair brilliantly with varsity
jackets and much more. Despite it being
sold out at Nike, resell websites such as
StockX have them listed at relatively
affordable prices depending on size, and
with the sheer popularity of the shoe, it
is certainly a piece that would help you
stand out from the crowd.
3: Adidas Forum 84 Low
(Price): £85
(Colourway): off white/collegiate green
/glow pink
This 1984 silhouette comes in at third
place with its unique but
complimentary colour combination of
peach, green, and off white. Adidas have
produced a perfect chunky sneaker
here, with its wide middle making it an
ideal shoe to let sit under wide-leg jeans
and various other bottoms, like cargos.
Additionally, little details such as its
Velcro lace strap and personalisation
feature make it a purchase well worth
its £85 price point.
The top two picks were hard to
separate, but coming up just short of top
spot is the Nike Lahar Low in a brown
colourway. A combination of a sneaker
and boot, this new release from Nike
looks like it can do it all. Apparently
“built for the rugged urban landscape”,
this model could fit just as well on the
streets as it would do on a hike; the
possibilities are endless! It’s a shoe that
has most definitely flown under the
radar, with it being readily available to
buy right now. Go check it out, it has
multiple colourways if this one fails to
impress.
1. Nike Blazer Low x Sacai
(Price): £119
(Colourway): tan/red
Coming in at first place on the list has to
be the recently released Nike x Sacai
Blazer Low in the ‘British Tan’
colourway. Possibly the best cold
weather colourway I’ve seen in a while,
this collaboration adds a popular brand
to your collection while keeping your
bank account looking healthy. The
contrast of the red and tan alongside the
beautiful suede materials creates a
striking shoe that will still match with
everything you have. The additional
doubled tongue, laces, and bottom
projects an unmistakeably Sacai look
whilst keeping the overall shoe lowkey.
At £119, I see this shoe as the best
balance in terms of appearance, luxury,
and price.
PAGE 82
I want to remind you that it's ok to have different emotions. You
shouldn't blame yourself for your reactions. You shouldn't
estimate yourself as a person for "bad" or "good" emotions.
Furthermore, you are not your emotions.
Model: Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta
Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio
Beauty Veil
Models: Anastasia Gorishna @Nastyagorishna; Enplanafro @enplanafro
Makeup Artist: Sarah Lily @glambysarahlily; Liudka @Liudka.b
Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon
Veils: Accesorize
LONDON RUNWAY
London Runway was on hand to
witness the live catwalk auditions to
select the face (or feet!) of the upcoming
Des O'Connors shoe collection. With
insights from our Face of London
Runway 2021 Womenswear winner,
Kirsty Spence…
On Saturday 11th September, a large
group of hopeful models filed into the
Holiday Inn in Kensington. They were a
diverse bunch, all from different shapes
and sizes and walks of life – and all of
them were hoping for the chance to
become the new ambassador for Des
O’Connor’s shoes.
With a prize worth £10,000 on the line,
everyone was ready to put their best
foot forward. And with our favourite
model coach, Maxine Griffiths, at the
helm, they all had an amazing shot!
After a day of practice, the models
walked out on the runway in front of a
live audience, competing in three
rounds to get to the top prize.
The first round saw all the models
stepping out in all-black outfits,
bringing us to a neutral comparison of
each of their talents. From there, they
were given their own choice of their
favourite outfit to wear with their own
stunning, colourful shoes. Finally, the
top entrants returned in new looks to
answer some questions from the judges
and get the chance to be crowned as the
winners.
Little did they know, there were actually
more prizes to be won! The judges
actually named winners in five
categories as well as the overall winner.
DES O’CONNORS LIVE
CATWALK AUDITIONS
They were:
Miss Impact – Maria Castiblanco
Miss Achieve – Ewelina Salata
Miss Courage – Hera Kruja
Miss Influence – Kinga Orlicz
Miss Energy – Lina Rahban
DOC Winner 2021 – Melissa Luke
Melissa will go home with five pairs of
Des O’Connors shoes and will also
model for the brand in the future.
And she wasn’t the only winner on the
day, either – with attendees all being
entered into a raffle to win shoes and
one on one motivational sessions with
Des himself.
“The models were amazing,” Kirsty told
us after watching the show from the
front row. “It was really professional,
with a full-on catwalk. It was really
vibrant, really upbeat. There was sass,
there was attitude! I loved the diversity!”
Jealous? Well, you might have missed
out on this year, but that doesn’t mean
you’ve missed every opportunity. Head
to desoconnorsmodels.com to get the
lowdown on the next opportunity – not
to be missed if you’re an aspiring model,
a shoe lover, or want to find
empowerment for yourself as a woman!
Take a peek over the next few pages to
see the winners and runners up, as well
as a highlight gallery of the most
exciting shoes that the models wore on
the day! What will the Des O’Connors
shoe collection look like? Stay tuned for
when it is launched in March to find
out!
DES O CONNORS
MODEL WINNERS
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS
LIVE CATWALK
AUDITIONS
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS
SHOE HIGHLIGHTS
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
BEST OF BOTH
BOUTIQUE
Images by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 61
LONDON RUNWAY
LFW came in full force this season with both digital and in-person presentations, but what
was even better than nearly a week of innovative SS22 fashion? The street styles returned!
Candice brings you LFW street style inspired trends fit for each unique sign.
March 21 - April 20
Aries
The Amaury Coat in Green, Navy, and White
Stripe is both versatile and bold, perfect for
any season. By Alice Early, all of their pieces
are designed and handmade in London with
classic, structured designs perfect for this fire
sign!
April 21 - May 21
Taurus
Aligne’s Quilted Evie Sleeveless Liner features a
drawstring waist and is the perfect layering
must-have! Tauruses will love the comfortable
design!
May 22- June 21
Gemini
Eclectic and funky are words used to
describe a Gemini and their style! Pair this
sign with ROOP’s satin Baby ROOP Bag and
you’ll have a match made in heaven!
PAGE 104
LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer
June 22- July 22
This feminine Virago Sleeve Top by Aardes
in wild rose is perfect for elevating the
classy Cancer’s traditional t-shirt and jeans
fit. The limited edition top is 100% cotton
and hand block printed in Jaipur, India.
Leo
July 23- August 21
Knee and thigh high boots cannot be
missed when looking back at LFW street
styles. With Beyond Skin’s Roxie B Camel
Faux Leather Knee High Vegan Boots, Leos
will strut with confidence everywhere they
go!
Virgo
August 22- September 23
Diligent Virgos constantly on the go want
nothing less than perfect, and this
translates over to their fashion tastes as
well! Oversized blazers never go wrong
with their practical and chic aesthetic, like
this Mother of Pearl Eden Prince of Wales
Jacket!
PAGE 105
LONDON RUNWAY
Libra
September 24- October 23
Colour-blocking makes a return with
fashion forward Libras leaping with joy to
pair their favourite colour schemes
together this season! Stella McCartney’s
‘Maia’ coat is “splashed with vivid pink, red
and orange hues.”
October 24- November 22
Scorpio
Checks and ginghams are back, and
Scorpios rock this undying trend like no
other! Seventy + Mochi’s Victoria Blouse in
Handwoven Berry Gingham showcases the
duality of this compassionate yet stoic sign
with its frill design and dark colouring.
November 23- December 22
Sagittarius
Sagittariuses and Beaumont Organic
are the experts of style and comfort. The
Francesca Linen Top’s balloon sleeves and
tie-up collar make for an elegant boho
addition to both sign and brand!
PAGE 106
Capricorn
December 23- January 20
Kairi London’s Julia Bag in their yin yang
design is 100% vegan made from cactus
leather. It fits almost everything a
Capricorn may need of it and more!
Aquarius
January 21 - February 19
Trendsetters through and through,
Aquarians rock anything they don, setting
the standard. This Mahogany Paradise set
from House of Sunny features statement,
printed pieces that they’re always drawn
to.
February 20 - March 20
Pisces
Yasmina Q’s Willow Dress in Sunrise
Yellow features a full length design with
jasmine ditsy print and cascading frills.
Pisceans will love this ethereal, dreamy
design, enhancing their intuition and
femininity.
You can see more of Candice's work on
Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley
All images via respective retailers
PAGE 107
LONDON
ACCESSORY
WEEK
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 110
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 111
AFRICA
FASHION
AWARDS:
KANDE
COLLECTION
Images by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 113
LA DAMA
LINGERIE
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
@the_mj_studio
PAGE 114
MISS POLSKI UK
& IRELAND
Paweł Majewski is the Founder and CEO of Miss Polski UK &
Ireland.
Miss Poland UK & Ireland 2021 - Sandra Salamon
Miss Poland UK & Ireland Teen 2021 - Klaudia Kotlarz
1st Vice Miss - Katarzyna Kriger
1st Vice Miss Teen - Nikola Ladosz
2nd Vice Miss - Nikolina Holuk
2nd Vice Miss Teen - Jagoda Biegala
Miss Photo Teen - Victoria Tadej
Miss Photo - Marta Chrostowska
Miss Internet Teenager - Victoria Tadej
Miss Internet - Sandra Salamon
Miss Teen Personality - Jagoda Biegala
Miss personality - Anna Guzak
Miss Smile - Nell Malczuk
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
@the_mj_studio
PAGE 117
MOST
THE
ICONIC
SUPERMODELS
ALL TIME
OF
LONDON RUNWAY
In the aftermath of London Fashion
Week, Ruth Croft explores the most
iconic supermodels of all time and
their impact on modern society.
Every September, just as the leaves
begin to fall, the streets of the capital
seem to quiver with anticipation as
London Fashion Week returns. The
revolutionary event first took place
in October 1983, and is showcased
twice a year - once in the spring, and
then in the autumn - for designers to
present their upcoming collections to
the public. It is organised by the
British Fashion Council, a not-forprofit
establishment that, in addition
to coordinating fashion events and
awards, is responsible for supporting
the next generation of designers.
This year, the event was held from
the 16th to the 21st of September,
leading with the talents of Bora Aksu,
Halpern, Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo,
and ERDEM, to name but a few. The
shows were split between both
physical and digital events, due to
the COVID-19 pandemic. But as
always, it was remarkable to see the
hard work of everyone involved in
such a prestigious experience, and to
express our appreciation of their
dedication and genius.
With this reminder of such talent, it
rouses the conversation around to the
other true power shining from events
such as this: that which brings the
designers’ dream to life, and styles it
out magnificently on the runway. I
am, of course, referring to the role of
the models - more specifically, the
elusive supermodel. The vague
definition of said supermodel is
simply a highly paid fashion model
who is beautiful and famous enough
to have cultural dominance. They
typically have an illustrious
reputation amongst prominent
fashion designers, magazine editors,
and beauty brands. Though it may
seem undemanding to stand on the
stage and look pretty, the art of
modelling is a complicated role which
requires a lot of energy. It is their job
to showcase the designs, to cast them
into the light, and reveal them as
something entirely visionary. They
are the presentation of ideals. And
most of the time, they find
themselves even more renowned
than their creators, making
themselves household names
throughout the entire world.
In light of this, here we explore the
top most iconic supermodels of all
time…
Naomi Campbell
Perhaps the most influential
supermodel of the ‘90s, Naomi
Campbell was the first person that
came to mind when I thought about
writing this article. Her era in the
fashion industry began in the 1980s,
and continues to this day, although
her first appearance in the spotlight
was when she starred in a Bob Marley
music video at age seven. Known for
her beauty and committed attitude to
her work, Campbell soon established
PAGE 118
LONDON RUNWAY
herself as one of the most reputable
models in the entire industry early
on in her career, being awarded the
title of ‘supermodel’ by the
international press. It’s worth noting
that she was the most famous black
model of her time. Since then, she
has also earned notoriety for being
particularly philanthropic. Not only
has she raised significant funds for
the Nelson Mandela Children’s
Funds, and raised awareness for
breast cancer through Fashion
Targets Breast Cancer, she is also the
founder of the charityFashion for
Relief, which organised fund-raising
fashion events to aid victims of
Hurricane Katrina in 2005.
Cindy Crawford
Rising to fame in the 1980s, Cindy
Crawford soon became a part of
what is now known as ‘the Big Six’,
consisting of the top supermodels on
the runway at the time. In her time,
she had a reliable presence on
fashion and lifestyle magazine
covers, as well as various modelling
campaigns and catwalks. She is best
known for her voluminous, wavy
hair, strong eyebrows, and her
trademark beauty mark.
earning her the nickname, ‘The
Shrimp.’ She even helped popularise
the mini skirt.
Elle MacPherson
The girl-next-door from Australia,
Elle MacPherson was known for her
smart and athletic aesthetic. She was
enrolled at Sydney University to
study Law, but began modelling to
pay for her textbooks. She was soon
posing on the covers of many
American magazines, however, her
most prominent exposure is arguably
her record five covers in the annual
Swimsuit Issue in Sports Illustrated.
This eventually earned her the
nickname, ‘The Body.’ She is also an
ambassador for RED, an enterprise
designed to raise money for the
Global Fund to Fight AIDS,
Tuberculosis, and Malaria.
Gisele Bündchen
Gisele Bündchen rose to fame in the
‘90s, after being discovered by Elite
Model Management in Rio de Janeiro.
Her very first runway show was during
New York Fashion Week, and she soon
went on to work with Dolce and
Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The
media referred to her as ‘the return of
the sexy model,’ as well as ‘the Brazilian
bombshell.’ It is reported that
Bündchen has been the highest-paid
model in the world since 2004,
however, she has used her wealth
philanthropically. Not only did she
donate $150,000 to the Zero Hunger
Program in Brazil, but she has also
campaigned for St Jude Children’s
Research Hospital, and the Red Cross to
aid those in Haiti after the earthquake
in 2010. She is a Goodwill Ambassador
for the United Nations Environment
Program.
Jean Shrimpton
Jean Shrimpton has been described
as having ‘the world’s most beautiful
face,’ known for her doe eyes and
pouty lips. She was particularly
poignant because of her contrast
with the former curvaceous look
presented by models in the ‘60s,
PAGE 119
LONDON RUNWAY
Twiggy
Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) was
the star of the Swinging Sixties,
storming into the modelling world at
only 16 years of age. She is best known
for her huge, dark eyes that she made
even more prominent with drawn-on
eyelashes, and her delicately slender
frame which inspired her nickname.
woman to ever walk in the Victoria’s
Secret Fashion Show in 2009. She
resides in New York, and is continuing
to rise in global success.
Jourdan Dunn
In 2008, Jourdan Dunn was the
first black model to star in a Prada
show for over a decade. She has
since spoken about the lack of
diversity in the modelling industry,
and the discrimination she has
faced during her career. Despite
these hardships, she has
campaigned with the likes of Marc
Jacobs and Yves St Laurent, and is
considered to be one of her
generation’s supermodels.
Kate Moss
Liu Wen
Known as the first Chinese
Supermodel, Liu Wen debuted her
international runway career in 2008,
walking for Burberry. She has since
worked with huge fashion brands, such
as Oscar de la Renta and Alexander
Wang. She became the first East-Asian
The British model that everyone
loves, Kate Moss was a pioneer of
the ‘90s fashion world. She was the
face of ‘heroin chic,’ a style that
represented the androgynous,
slender, pale skin trend that rose in
the early 1990s. It was a deviation
from the previous supermodel
look, awarding Moss worldwide
attention. She has been associated
with many brands over the years,
and is still considered to be one of
the world’s most influential people.
Cara Delevingne
Supermodel, actress, and singer… it
seems Cara Delevingne has it all.
She was signed to Storm
Management in 2009, but didn’t
break through properly until 2012,
when she walked in all four of the
big Fashion Weeks: New York,
London, Paris, and Milan. She has
since become the face of Rimmel,
and twice won an award for ‘Model
of the Year’ in the British Fashion
Awards.
Their reputation is undeniably
befitting. To be a model is to work
with dedication, and a lot of
willpower. The industry is known
to be controversial, at best. To rise
to power, one must be determined
to look past every rejection and
heartless comment. It is not an easy
ride. But then again, perhaps that’s
why we call them ‘super’.
You can read more of Ruth’s work
on Instagram by following
@thewriterruth.
Images via WikiMedia Commons
PAGE 120
Q
&
THE BIG QUESTION
A
What's one fashion
We asked, you answered
show you'd love to see
I want to go back in time and see an
Alexander McQueen show from the man
himself!
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
in person?
“I would love to see a Dior or Chanel show -
but only if I could wear their clothes in the
front row!”
- Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant
“SAVAGE X FENTY”
– Anna Marie, Fashion Student
“YEEZY!”
- Jack, Sales Manager
“I would honestly love to see any LFW show
now that we're able to again, I'll take anything!”
– Louise Jensen, Fashion Buyer
“I would love to see
something at Milan
Fashion Week. I'm
not picky!”
- Cal J, Musician
“Joshua Kane!”
– Jared Rehal, Operations
Manager
“Viktor and Rolf shows never
disappoint, I love how creative they
are!”
– Jenny, Model
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
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BACK COVER: RABI SULTAN
BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA
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