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est in peace... "that's not gonna happen"

Phil was up for anything that involved the water

Phil Wilkins

(1948 - 2022)

Phil was always up for an adventure

I have looked back over the last two years of my editorials, and apart from one or two,

there is an ongoing common theme. It is obviously, something we all need to be aware of

but do these editorials have an effect? Maybe not, but that does not delete the endeavor.

To be concise and to summarize the majority of the last two years’ editorial is to say that

our only non-renewable asset is time and the overpowering need to use it wisely and

effectively. To continue with the cliché, no one ever lay on their deathbed wishing they

had spent more time at work. We do not get to choose the hand we are dealt in terms of

health; sure, we can improve our chances, but we do not really get a choice. However,

the choice you do get is to use the time you are given the best way you can.

Phil and wife Sue shared a love of skiing, then later

took up snowboarding!

Last week a close friend and mentor of mine died. Phil Wilkins, he was kind and

generous and intelligent. But he was also active; he surfed, he dived, he biked, he skied,

he windsurfed, he paddle-boarded. if there was a moment in the day, he filled it with

action. But these activities he did not do alone he involved friends and family he was both

the captain and the cheerleader.

Then his life was cut short by Parkinson’s disease. As tragic as that is, and it is hugely

tragic, Phil could look back on his life and say without a doubt that he could not have

squeezed one more moment in; his life was full and well lived, and he filled his cup to the

brim and then let it overflow.

I will miss the ongoing example of how to live a life, but it installed in me from an early

age the need to ‘seize the day’, and his example continues in that you really don’t know

how many days you are allotted.

When someone passes, people say, ‘rest in peace,’ if there is a sequel to this life, then I

am sure Phil is certainly not resting in peace, but he’ll be there squeezing as much as he

can out of each and every day.

Thanks for the lifelong example.

Steve Dickinson - Editor

Mountain biking was another of Phil's loves

your Adventure starts with Us

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

page 6

contents

Image by Marcelo Maragni / Red Bull Content Pool Image by Richard Rossiter

Image by Derek Cheng

page 14

page 22

6//Alpine climbing in a warming climate

by Derek Cheng

14//Getting high on the old ghost road

By Eric Skilling

22//Sky Grind

with Leticia Bufoni

26//A stunning welcome back to the West

Coast

Karekare Whatipu Loop

30//Crankworx Rotorua

The final stop of the World Tour

36//Ruapehu's greatest hits

• 5 fantastic day hikes

46//Three go wild in Taranaki

By Lynne Dickinson

74//Adventure Travel

• Samoa

• Rarotonga

• Vanuatu

• Tahiti

plus

54. gear guides

91. active adventure

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Image by Steve Dickinson

page 84

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we ARE climbing

John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka

Photo: Tom Hoyle

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage

STORES NATIONWIDE

www.bivouac.co.nz

BEHIND THE COVER...

Climber Giuliano Cameroni Image by Stefan Kürzi; From the Red Bull content pool, illume Quest Entry

The Red Bull Illume competition

brings together the best athletes and

photographers in the world. The results

are often stunning, capturing a moment,

a feeling, or visually telling a narrative.

Giuliano Cameroni is an astounding

climber with a unique way of looking at

both the rock he climbs and the nature

that surrounds it . Stefan Kürzi has

managed to capture that moment with this

exceptional image.

Giuliano Cameroni sees rocks differently

to most people. To him, a boulder of

granite is a playground, a puzzle. It's a

work of art. The Swiss climber used to

follow the ways of most other climbers by

working heavily in the gym to build up the

muscle to tackle the toughest boulders

both at home and abroad. However, an

encounter with another climber, Charles

Albert, a couple of years ago transformed

his outlook on how he approaches every

climb. Go climbing, not to the gym!

"I knew this connection with the rock was

very important, but everyone goes to the

gym and trains, so I thought I had to do

it also," he recalled. "I started doing it

when I was young and the results were

never great. I'd never make that big step

forward. He was like, 'Dude, training is

s***. Just go on the rock and just try really

hard'. I lived with him for two months and I

tried it because I was curious."

His new-found philosophy has seen a

rapid progression in his career. He likes to

meditate to help prepare body and mind

and, even when not climbing, he enjoys

being at one with nature in the search for

his next potential conquest.

"I really love the energy of the forest,"

he said. "It gives me tremendous energy

being outside. The world is so perfect,

nature is perfect. I really see the beauty of

it and the chance to be able to be there. I

spend as much time there as possible."

"Out there in nature, I'm trying to figure

out the rock and what it offers – the close

connection to the rock," he said. "Others

only go to the gym and train, and have

much more power than me, but still

can't do the rocks as they don't feel that

connection... "

“Northern Rocks is an indoor

bouldering facility, we foster

community, growth and

positive experiences

for people of all

backgrounds, ages

and abilities.”

World Class Indoor Climbing

First visit $25* then free for a week!

Fantastic community, beginners

welcome, boulder classes for all ages

and abilities, inquire now.

* Discounts for youths and own gear

Student Mondays, entry $15

www.northernrocks.co.nz

@northernrocks.climbing

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

Alpine

climbing

in a

warming

climate:

The times,

they're

not for

wasting

Words and photos by Derek Cheng

It sounded like an earthquake, but the ground below

us was still. As if in slow motion, an increasingly

thunderous noise drifted in from the other side of

the valley, where blooming dust clouds signalled a

rockfall of gargantuan proportions.

6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

A climber stuffs his hand into a crack on the Sala Athee route, on Aiguille du Moine in the European Alps

Our bivvy site, under Envers des Aiguille, where constant rockfall disturbed our sleep.

"This is always a disconcerting sight for

a climber. It was especially alarming

because we watched the debris peter

down towards a gully where we’d been

planning to venture in the coming days."

This is always a disconcerting sight for a climber. It was

especially alarming because we watched the debris peter down

towards a gully where we’d been planning to venture in the

coming days. The gully was the access to 375m-long alpine

climb called Sala Athee, on the peak known as The Monk, which

was recommended to us because of its technical crack climbing.

We were sitting in an idyllic bivvy spot below the granite needles

of Envers des Aiguilles, near Chamonix, in the heart of the

European Alps. The rockfall wasn’t anywhere near us, but

witnessing such a large one always focuses the mind on what

might fall down at any moment.

All through the night, the unnerving sound of collapsing rocks

echoed around us. If I happened to be awake, there was little to

do but hide in my sleeping bag and hope we weren’t in the direct

path of anything.

The following day, as we scaled the jagged corners and

technical slabs of a 650m-high climb called Banana Republic,

we remained on constant alert to the possibility of rockfall,

which, thankfully, never eventuated.

We had chosen the climb because it had less objective danger

than other routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The European

summer had been a sweltering affair, and many of the glaciers

in the alps were already opening up. In early July we had

crossed the Valle Blanche to climb the magnificent granite tower,

Grand Capucin, and were later told that a guide and his client

had both fallen into a crevasse, breaking several bones, while

crossing the same glacier at around the same time as we had.

A week before that, a serac the size of two football fields

collapsed from the top of the Marmolada Glacier, in the Italian

Dolomites, killing 10 people. It’s still unclear how it happened,

but it wasn’t an area known to be dangerous, nor was it a

hanging glacier, where icefall would be expected. But rising

temperatures have made glaciers more unstable; leading up to

the accident, a weather station at 3250m on the Marmolada had

recorded 23 straight days of temperatures above 0 0 Celsius.

These are uncertain times, as rising temperatures change

the face of the mountains we love to play in. Over the last

century, temperatures in the European Alps have gone up by

2 degrees Celsius, twice the global average. Climate change

has contributed to glaciers shrinking by more than a third over

the last 18 years. And while scientists expect the Marmolada to

disappear altogether within 15 years, others predict all glaciers

in Europe below 3500m will have gone by 2050.

The same pattern has been observed in New Zealand, which in

general means the snowline is creeping higher while the volume

of ice shrinks. Studies from the National Institute of Water and

Atmospheric Research show that a third of the permanent snow

and ice in the Southern Alps was lost between 1977 and 2014.

More recently, New Zealand glaciers have been shown to have

lost 1.5m a year from 2015 to 2019, almost seven times as much

compared to the thinning that occurred between 2000 and 2004.

As a globe-trotting dirtbag climber for more than a decade, this

poses a dilemma: how to offset the carbon footprint of someone

who regularly undertakes long-haul flights and super-long

drives. Some feel so guilty about their impact on the planet that

they no longer indulge in visits to far-flung climbing destinations.


A massive rockfall tumbles down the south face of Aiguille Verte, where another hot summer continues to change the mountains we play in

Chris Davis sits atop one of dozens of glorious granite needles in the European Alps.

"rising temperatures have made

glaciers more unstable; a

weather station at 3250m on

the Marmolada had recorded 23

straight days of temperatures

above 0 degrees Celsius."

But giving up a lifestyle that has given me so much is too

much of a sacrifice, personally. So I look for other ways to

reduce my carbon footprint. A huge chunk of greenhouse gas

emissions come from agriculture; in New Zealand, it’s almost

50 per cent. Red meat, in particular, leaves a large carbon

footprint, due to cows’ methane emissions.

A recent American study found that if every person in the

US cut their meat consumption by 25 per cent, annual

greenhouse gas emissions would fall by 1 per cent. So rule

number one is ‘eat less meat’ or, more particularly, ‘buy

less meat’; I have no problem eating a steak that someone

else won’t eat, for example, because it doesn’t contribute to

consumer demand.

Which brings me to the second rule: about a third of all food

produced is thrown out. This is not only offensively wasteful,

but it also scars the environment, given how much energy

and water it takes to grow, harvest, package and distribute

those billions of tonnes of food.

Rule number two is ‘no waste’, and it doesn’t just apply to my

food. Those who partake in the dirtbag lifestyle are familiar

with eating the leftovers on someone else’s plate in a cafe or

restaurant, or dumpster-diving, where the all-important smelltest

determines what might still be edible.

Nor does it apply to only food. The holes in my climbing

clothing are generally covered in duct tape, and I only ever

acquire clothing - usually second-hand - when my old ones

are well and truly beyond their retirement date.

When I travel, I tend to go for a long period on a one-way

ticket, rather than take several flights a year for a number

of shorter climbing holidays. When not travelling, I have a

further rule: unless the weather is apocalyptic, I don’t tend to

drive, and if we do drive to climbing crags, we car-pool.

Personal actions, of course, are insignificant in the grand

scheme of things unless they are done collectively. These

are all easy ways everyone can reduce their carbon footprint.

But climate change is already happening to such an extent

that it is irreversible. For alpine climbers, the seasons are

already no longer what they used to be. Warmer climes

mean thinner and vanishing snow bridges over glacier

crevasses, ever-wider bergschrund gaps between the ice

and the rockwall, and melting permafrost releasing clumps of

rock and soil that are normally frozen together.

The latter is thought to be behind the fate of the hut known as

the Bivouac de la Fourche, which was perched precariously

on the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit, but which collapsed

into the Brenva Glacier in August. There was no cliff above it

that could have unleashed a hut-smashing rock-slide.

And then there’s glacial retreat, which makes some climbs

inaccessible due to an increasingly hostile moraine wall to

overcome. Even if you do make it, there might be an extra

25m of technical climbing just to reach what used to be the

start of the route.

I had arrived in France at the end of June, and quickly

jumped on some ice climbing objectives before the summer

temperatures made them unclimbable. The top section of

the classic Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi, had already

deteriorated to black glacial ice instead of much friendlier

snow névé, which had already melted.

Within two weeks, the unofficial advice was not to climb on

certain mountains because getting there was too dangerous.

Crossing some glaciers had become a lottery, we were

told, rather than an exercise in skill and knowledge. And

attempting some routes was tempting fate: a huge boulder

on Cosmiques Arête fell down a few weeks after we’d

climbed it.


Chris Davis climbing the Arete du Diable traverse, on Mt Blanc du Tacul, before conditions became too warm this past summer.

Chris Davis on the famous snow arete section of the Frendo Spur on Aiguille du Midi, high above the town of Chamonix

"The top section of the classic

Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi,

had already deteriorated to

black glacial ice instead of much

friendlier snow névé, which had

already melted. "

As rockfall became more and more ubiquitous,

Chamonix-based climbers looked to objectives that

didn’t involve crossing a glacier. The Sala Athee, in

the Charpoua area, was one such climb, but we were

hesitant after having watched a massive avalanche

sweep down towards the gully that leads to it.

We decided to head up to the area anyway and seek

the local advice of the guardian at the Charpoua

Refuge, who told us that there hadn’t been any

activity in the gully since then. Several parties had

also climbed the route in the previous week, including

the previous day.

The next morning, pre-dawn, was a still, chilly

atmosphere as we approached the gully. It was slabby

and slippery, as expected, given it had been glaciallycarved

eons ago. Rockfall was thankfully absent as

we scrambled up to the base of the climb.

Nerves around the descent were always going to

centre around down-climbing the gully. A mountain is

generally a lot more unstable in the evening, after its

features have spent several hours in the warmth of

the day. We did what all alpinists do when confronted

with unavoidable objective hazards: we crossed our

fingers and hurried through.

It seemed a fitting metaphor in these warming times.

There will be a time in the not-too-distant future when

classic routes are no longer what they were, or may

have even fallen down altogether. For those that are

still there and are safe enough to climb, there’s no

time to waste.

derekcheng.media

www.instagram.com/dirtbagdispatches

Sala Athee starts with two warm-up pitches before

the wall steepens into a technical slab, an awkward

chimney, and then a series of splitter cracks that

climax in an exposed step around an overhanging

arête. The top-out, too, is suitably glorious: a flat, wide

and spacious platform that wing-suiters, in the right

conditions, would happily launch from.


Climbers topping out a route called Voice of the Druid, on Aiguille du Moine, high above the shrinking Mer de Glace.

Getting High

on the Old

Ghost Road

Spectacular mountain biking

in a unique wilderness

By Eric Skilling

Absolute focus. This moment was all about the thrill of racing along the trail,

anticipating the direction of the next turn, guessing how big those rocks were

and picking the right line as the bike careered over sporadic streams in a

spray of cold water. Nothing else mattered as I weaved between tree trunks,

under overhanging branches and around huge rocks. The closeness of the

forest exaggerated the sense of speed and yes, I was on a high.

Several metres away one of those typically clear West Coast rivers crashed

and cascaded its way over giant granite and marble boulders, but its beauty

went almost unnoticed as I concentrated on the path ahead.

It was the second day of my journey, and I had reached the last 8km of a

25km section from Lyell to Stern Huts. Already I understood why trampers

and mountain bikers got so excited about tackling this challenging trail –

today must rate as one of the most stunning and varied mountain biking

days you will find anywhere in the world. And it is less than a third of this

remarkable track.

Cycling the Wilderness Trail had inspired me to come back and explore

more of the distinctive forests, rivers and mountains that make this region so

unique. The intriguingly named Old Ghost Road promised 85km of adventure

set in a magnificent corner of West Coast wilderness, but I underestimated

how spectacular and memorable my four days here would be.

This second day had begun with 6 km of almost continual climbing through

a tranquil beech forest, the floor covered with lichens and thick, bright-green

mosses. Apart from the gravel crunching under my tyres and the noise of my

breathing, the only sound to break the silence was the call of the occasional

bird.

Above: Slips Briges above Mokihinui. Image by Jonathan Kennett


Climbing through stunning native forest. Image by Sven Martin

Everything changed dramatically at around 1300 metres

elevation, as the path emerged out of the bush line and

onto Lyell saddle. Suddenly there were views to the

horizons. West to the scarred bush-clad valleys of the

Glasgow range. East past the tiny lines and boxes of

Murchison and the ridges of Nelson Lakes National Park,

to the jagged Kaikoura peaks outlined against the distant

skyline.

Gone was the lush flora of the forest - the ground now

covered in the browns and reds of wind battered alpine

shrubs and tussock grasses. A strong wind raced up from

the valleys and over the ridge where I stood gazing out

at the breath-taking views. Within a couple of minutes I

was uncomfortably cold, so I sought the sanctuary of Top

Camp Shelter, a few hundred metres away.

The next few hours were a mix of exhilarating and

exhausting riding, which also left me in awe of the

exceptional engineering and the effort taken to make this

track possible. Large sections of the track have been

carved into the cliff faces with several bridges clinging to

the rock, making it a spine-tingling traverse.

To say the next section below Ghost Lake hut is

challenging is like saying New Zealand has a few lakes

and trees. The steep descent below Ghost Lake on a fully

laden bike confirmed I am a bit of a wuss but the route

itself is truly impressive.

Thankfully, once below Skyline steps and into the bush

again, the pathway levels out and the last 8km along the

Stern Valley is an epic finish to an incomparable day’s

riding. There would likely be a bit of a sting in the legs

tomorrow, but this day had exceeded all my expectations.

The good news is that this wasn’t the only section of

the trail that would get the heart racing. A day later at

Specimen hut, I had gazed from the window down to

the narrow and steep-sided Mokihinui river gorge and

contemplated how the track could possibly get us any

further. Once again, all credit to the people who invested

thousands of hours blasting, digging, and smashing their

way to create the slender path that clings to the edge

of the cliffs, offering nerve-wracking views of the swift

moving waters of the Mokihinui many metres below.

Some choose to ride all 85km in a day, such as Lynn,

Mira, Charlotte and Duncan, residents from nearby

Westport. I am not a local and deciding to take 4 days

to make this amazing journey was the right choice for

me. Not least because I lack the technical skill and

fitness for such a gruelling adventure, but also because

this unique wilderness area demands savouring. In the

words of Marion Boatwright, the American immigrant,

explaining his motivation for dedicating over a decade of

his life to making the OGR a reality - “……this is world

class country…….. it’s like your seriously hot sister, but

because she is your sister you can’t see how gorgeous

she really is.”

Lynn, Mira, Charlotte and Duncan chose

to ride all 85km in one day


Unmatched perch on the tops. - Image by Richard Rossiter

“…this is world

class country…

it’s like your

seriously hot

sister, but

because she is

your sister you

can’t see how

gorgeous she

really is.”

Trail snaking its way past Ghost lake.Image by Richard Rossiter

While I am impressed with the skill and applaud the achievement of a one-day

assault, I was glad to have set aside more time to appreciate this rare experience.

There are several aspects of the OGR that must be mentioned in more detail. The

birdlife, the accommodation, and the engineering.OGR is a fatal place to venture

into if you are a stoat, rat or possum. A network of 1,000 traps, deviously managed

by an enthusiastic group of conscientious folks have successfully dispatched over

7,000 of these unwelcome exotics. The benefits add so much to the experience for

us visitors. In the few hours it took from the trailhead at Lyell car park to the Lyell

hut, I was cheered on by the calls of wrens, tomtits, rifleman, kaka, the inimitable

bellbird and my favourite, the curiously cheeky piwakawaka.

It was common to see bellbirds from the track, several families of whio alongside

the rivers, and I had the pleasure of a robin joining me during a lunch stop between

Stern hut and Specimen point. On the last stretch along the Mokihinui River, kea

called to each other from the treetops above me. A dawn chorus of native birds is

my idea of a perfect wake up call, and the menagerie of birds calling from the native

trees around Stern hut take the award for the most cheerful and energetic.

Marcus about to tackle the Skyline Steps.

Image by Jeff Ward

Weka are often seen on the path, sprinting their way into the shrubbery ahead,

hooting their annoyance at my intrusion. But in the ultimate confirmation of a

successful of the pest eradication programme, kiwi have been heard in the beech

forests around Lyell and Ghost Lake hut. To all you folks who work so diligently, and

to quote the General manager of the Mokihinui-Lyell Backcountry Trust – take a

bow! Nga mihi.

Perfectly placed Top Camp Shelter was a

welcome refuge from the wind


Secondly, the accommodation. Lots of thought has gone into the placement, design

and building of the huts. Photographs from the legendary Ghost Lake hut confirm it

is up there with the best placed back country accommodation in NZ in terms of wide

vistas and stunning sunrises and sunsets. Specimen point is also a gem of a site for

a hut. Nestled on a small ridge, dominated by steep bush-clad valley walls, and filled

with the sounds of the Mokihinui River. Stern hut is the forest-bathing mecca of the

trail, nestled amongst regenerating rimu, totara, matai and kahikatea.

PRESENTS

A NEW RIDE-THROUGH VIDEO OF

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Find it free to watch on YouTube, the websites below, or scan the QR code

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By Mountain Safety Council

planmywalk.nz oldghostroad.org.nz nzcycletrail.com

Exhausting and thrilling track across the alpine tops

The engineering. It has to be seen to be believed.

Riding the trail is exciting enough, but it is difficult to

comprehend how they were constructed in the first

place. Not enough can be said about the countless

hours and dogged determination it has taken

designing, let alone building these enthralling tracks

and bridges.

Phil Rossiter, one of the original “band of four”

designers is acknowledged as an enthusiastic

mountain biker, and his influence in design is

obvious. Although there were times when I forced

myself to “look at the track, not at the drop” to

paraphrase an old skiing saying, I never felt unsafe.

A series of solid wire “rails” are there to protect the

weary. This trail is set in a wilderness environment,

demanding to be treated with caution and respect.

Jeff below Ghost Lake Hut. - Image by Rachael Melville

An after-dinner discussion amongst a group of

passionate trampers and mountain bikers at Stern

hut drifted to a comparison of the OGR to the more

established walks - Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn,

Kepler to name a few. OGR was winner by a clear

majority.

Late on the last day, shortly after a bush shower, I

was sipping coffee on the deck at the Rough and

Tumble Lodge, surrounded by two groups of riders

enjoying the satisfaction of completing the ride,

cleaning their bikes, ordering drinks, loudly reliving

moments on the trail. Like them, I vowed to be back

again.

The author travelled courtesy of Old Ghost Road and

Development West Coast. I choose to use Jetboil,

Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine and Keen products

Spine-tingling drops over the Mokihinui River


sky

grind

Words and images courtesy of Red Bull

Brazilian Leticia Bufoni's Sky Grind project involved

2,750m (9,000ft) of altitude, an aircraft from the Fast

And Furious movie franchise, a skydiving expert from

the Mission Impossible film series, skate obstacles,

parachutes – and potentially the most hair-raising

skateboard trick ever recorded.


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

Bufoni has carved out a reputation as one of the best global

skaters with six X Games golds to her name, three silvers and

three bronzes.

For this project, the São Paulo native hopped on an airplane used

in the Fast & Furious films and made history with a distinctive trick

shot by the aerial cameraman from the film Mission: Impossible -

Fallout.

Bufoni intensified her physical training in the months leading

into the stunt at Aerotelier - an aero-sport base in Argentina - by

skydiving more than 100 times to prepare for this challenge.

When Bufoni finally felt ready, she traveled in late August with

more than 50 people from the production and shooting crew to

shoot in a tailor-made skatepark inside a C-130 Hercules airplane.

California Skateparks founder Joe Ciaglia, who built the skatepark

used in the Tokyo Olympics, has known Bufoni for more than 10

years and built the first skatepark designed inside an airplane.

Wearing a parachute of almost 20 pounds (9.1kg), she

skateboarded and jumped on August 30, and was captured by

Craig O'Brien, the same cameraman that jumps with Tom Cruise

in 'Mission: Impossible - Fallout'.

Bufoni nailed the 'feeble grind' - a difficult trick that combines a

50/50 and boardslide trick - where she slid on the handrail, by

leaning on the side of the metal truck connecting the wheels on

the back of the skateboard, whilst in the air.

The 29-year-old enthused: "It's crazy to think that I'm the first

person to skateboard inside a plane and do a feeble in the air.

That's something I didn't know if it was possible or not. I've never

skateboarded on an airplane. That was one of the greatest days

of my life."

Red Bull Air Force member Jeffrey Provenzano, 46 who trained

Bufoni in skydiving, added: "As a skydiver, she is amazing. I

was surprised. Athletes tend to learn fast, but she was beyond

expectations. She gave 100% of attention to all of the details."

Watch the full Sky Dive Clip HERE.

Home to a tiny island

community of 212 people

jurawhisky.com

Above: Framed by driftwood sculptures as we headed to Whatipu / Below: Enjoying a tail-wind and firm low tide sand on the way south


A

Stunning

Welcome

Back to

the West

Coast

Karekare Whatipu Loop, Waitakere (22km – 6 hours)

Words and Images by Eric Skilling

Standing on Karekare beach I can understand why a famous

director chose to shoot a movie here.

Apart from a lone fisherman practicing his craft we were the only

people. Ahead of us the fine black sand, freshly groomed by the

outgoing tide, stretched to the horizon. Somewhere up there,

over six kilometres away along the beach, was the entrance to the

Manukau harbour.

The colours of the Tasman Sea always seem that much richer

alongside the deep charcoals and blacks of the shoreline. Today

the waves fought their way in against an offshore wind, finally

crashing in a mass of spray and then racing up the sloping beach

towards us, coming to a stop a few feet away.

Almost a kilometre away to our left, a few dunes dotted with wispy

grass looked insignificant against the heavily scarred cliffs that

were clearly losing the battle against the forces of this high-energy

coastline. Above these precipices impenetrable-looking West

Coast bush covered the ridges, the greenery contrasting starkly

against the darker shades on the cliff faces. You can only be

inspired by this place.

Finally, four years after the tracks had been closed to protect our

native Kauri trees, we are able to travel the loop from Karekare

to Whatipu and back. Our plan on this trip was to meet at the

Karekare car park and travel south some 10km along the beach

to the entrance of the Manukau Harbour at Whatipu. Then head

inland past the camping ground and follow the newly completed

Muir and Gibbons tracks back to Karekare.

From 90-mile beach to Fiordland, the West Coast is spectacularly

wild country full of great walks but in terms of accessibility and

variety of terrain, this rates as one of the best. Combining an

open beach section leaving you fully exposed to the elements,

to the relative calm of tracks meandering through lush bush, with

stunning views from the cliff-tops and boardwalks over thriving

wetlands.

Our leader made a great call when she decided to head south

along the beach in the early morning just after low tide. We all

appreciated making fresh footprints along the firm sand, and we

got to enjoy the wind at our backs on the most unprotected section

of the walk. Much more appealing than a slog back into the wind

in soft sand at high tide with tiring legs.


Looking north from the cliff top on Gibbons Track, the rocky island at Karekare Beach in the distance

Another benefit of setting out in a strong northerly wind was the

protection offered by the Waitakere range. It would rain quite

steadily all day on the eastern side of the range, but on this side,

we were well protected. Our day just got warmer and the sky

clearer to the point where some of us would have run out of water

if it hadn’t been for the water tanks at Pararaha campsite.

A couple of hours after setting off we passed the man-made

driftwood structures standing stark and slightly out of place in the

black sand and reached the entrance to the Manukau Harbour

and a dramatic change in scene. Gone was the wide expanse of

sand, replaced with the rugged Wing Head and Paratutai Island

and deceptively calm waters, well sheltered from the swell. A

couple of rocky outcrops in front of the Paratutai were stark-white

with a coating of bird droppings, clearly a haven for the numerous

sea birds. The distant clay-coloured cliffs on the southern side of

the heads looked serene with their smooth grassy tops compared

to the dark rocky crags and dense bush on this northern side.

It was a pleasant surprise to realise we had covered over 10km

and were almost exactly half-way by this stage. Our leader led us

to a sheltered sand dune at the base of Wing Head for lunch. A

brash pipit/pihoihoi dropped in and got to enjoy a few morsels of

fruit as reward for its confidence.

Moving off the beach and onto the new Gibbons and Muir

tracks was a pleasure. Costing over $2.3Mn, the helicopters,

excavators and army of workers had moved on, leaving us to

enjoy the serenity of the bush. Alongside and sometimes over us,

regenerating karaka, cabbage tree, nikau, harakeke/flax, toetoe

and manuka are thriving.

A timely shout-out to all those involved in this redevelopment.

The track has been designed to last. No expense spared in

building wide and well gravelled paths lined with deep drains. The

bridges and numerous wide boardwalks make their way over the

wetlands, and the many steps built to minimise erosion as well as

making it easier for us to negotiate in bad weather.

Gibbons track has been routed to take full advantage of some

magnificent cliff-top views that got more spectacular as we

made our way to the top of the ridges. About half-way up the

first ridge, we reached a lookout which took in a south-western

vista including ninepin rock/Te Toka Tapu a Kupe, the beach and

Paratutai island.

Impressive as it was that stop did not compare to the panorama

from the next clearing on the cliff edge high above the wide

coastland. Facing more north, our gaze followed the dense

bush-lined slopes of the cliffs on our right and then descended

into the unique landscape below us with its scrub, marshes, and

glistening lakes. Further out across coastal foliage and the dark

band of beach, the foam lined edges of a deep-blue Tasman Sea

looked deceivingly peaceful from this distance. The rocky island

at Karekare Beach was very small and distant from this elevation.

The path meandered inland from this point, under overhanging

plants to join the Muir track. It eventually descended steeply

downward into the jagged Pararaha Valley camp site and shelter.

The trail was still wide and well maintained, with wooden steps

and a chain-rail at the steeper sections. Above us the sky was

clearing, and temperatures were rising as fast as the humidity, so

we enjoyed a welcome stop for a drink and a snack at the cooking

shelter. Once on the valley floor we followed the raised boardwalks

over swamps and steep valley faces, to the sand-dunes.

At this point one of our newer members let us know she had been

enduring blisters from her relatively new boots. Fortunately, we

had reached the soft sandy 4-wheel drive tracks in the dunes, and

onto the firmer footing of dry lakebeds, so she took off her boots

and was able to walk in the relative comfort of her socks.

In a little over a kilometre the trail led us back to the rail tunnel left

from the original log-felling industry of the Gibbons family dating

back over 150 years ago. Even though the passageway was part

of a system that has denied us later generations the benefits

and pleasure the ancient Kauri, you can only respect the effort

involved and sacrifices made by those who physically constructed

the railway and passageway under the conditions at the time.

It wasn’t long before we were back at Karekare beach and a

scattering of folk enjoying the surf or riding the beach on bikes.

Thanks to all those who have strived and succeeded in preserving

this area, and to those who are helping to make it more like it

once was. There has been such a vast improvement since it was

first deemed a scientific reserve in 2002 and from what we saw

on this trip, you can only be optimistic about the future.

My only regret was that we had not planned for a full weekend

here and travelled the Omanawanui track which, I am told, is even

more stunning than what we had already enjoyed.


I choose to use Jetboil, Keen footwear, Macpac and Backcountry products

crankworx

rotorua

2022

Words and images supplied by Crankworx

Crankworx Rotorua took flight in March of 2015, becoming the first

festival outside of North America and Europe. Since then, it’s played

host to some of the most memorable moments in Crankworx history

and is now referred to “the soul of Crankworx” due to the unique

ability to combine riding with culture. This year, Crankworx Rotorua

was once again, the final stop of the World Tour.

One rider that most people arguably had a close eye on was Emil

Johansson with the Triple Crown of Slopestyle on the line. Johansson

worked so hard over the past month after his crash at the Crankworx

Cairns Slopestyle event. Johansson followed the concussion protocol

and rehabbed very diligently to get himself cleared to get back in

action, and he really came out with a bang today.

“This is actually the first event in a while where I needed to calm

myself down because we'd been riding so much,” Johansson said

of his experience during the finals. “I was really prepared and really

pumped for the event. And it was so much on the line here. For me

to be able to put all the stuff down that I managed to put down and

perform at the level I did, it feels surreal. Even though on the surface

we might look calm, deep down we're really prepared.”

The crowd went wild to see Johansson return with absolute

cleanliness and technicality, spinning opposite directions, and tail

whipping all directions. Johansson’s win also secured himself the

2022 Triple Crown of Slopestyle for the second year in a row.

Timothe Bringer took the second place position with a score of 89.5,

getting himself the silver medal t and also securing the third place

position for the Crankworx FMBA Slopestyle World Championship

award.

Earlier in the day the people of Rotorua were treated to a Crankworx

favourite, the TREK Official New Zealand Whip Off Championships

presented by POC. It has been a great Whip Off season this year

and today was no exception. The small group of riders persevered

through the schedule changes and the challenging weather conditions

to put on a sick show for the spectators. Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg,

maintained his first place position for the Crankworx Rotorua Whip Off

earning himself the gold medal again today.

“Pretty stoked,” Begg said of his win. “I was just having fun with my

friends and I happened to go in behind my friend Dave and then Allan,

so I just got a good wind which made me go a bit more sideways. I am

just stoked for everyone that we all got to ride together. We obviously

have been battling with the rain this week so the course was a little bit

tougher to ride but we made do with what we got and that’s what it’s

all about.”


Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg takes the Whip Off win

Image by Jay French



Emil Johansson performs during Slopestyle Training at Crankworxs in Rotorua, NZ and goes on to win the Triple Crown

Image by Graeme Murray / Red Bull Content Pool


Above: Dan Booker at the Whip Off - Image by Jay French

Left: Tomas Lemoine on practise day - Image by C Trahan

Bottom Left: Gareth Burgess at the Whip Off - Image by C Trahan

And that’s a wrap to the Crankworx 2022 season. If

Crankworx Rotorua, the final stop on the World Tour, could

be described in just a few phrases it would be mud showers,

rain showers and champagne showers. The atmosphere was

electric onsite with fans braving all weather conditions for a

chance to rub shoulders with their icons. Racers embraced

the turbulent conditions to put on one of the most impressive

performances of skills, spills and plenty of thrills seen in

Rotorua.

Director Ariki Tibble reflected on the past week of elite racing

and the contribution of the community in Rotorua. “It's been

20 months since we delivered the last full scale Crankworx

Rotorua event and it's hard to find the words to express how

it has felt to have so many international manuhiri back in our

midst...I think hosting visitors is part of our DNA, it brings out

the best in us, and we feel more whole when we are doing it.”

Crankworx may be over for this year, but you don’t need

to wait long for your mountain biking adrenaline hit. The

Crankworx Summer Series kicks off with four prime locations

from February 28 – March 12, 2023 with all roads leading

back to Rotorua for Crankworx in March 2023.

For more information on the Crankworx Summer Series and

Crankworx Rotorua 2023, check out the website:

www.crankworx.com

TREK Official New

Zealand Whip Off

Championships

presented by POC

1.Matt Begg (NZL)

2.Peter Kaiser (AUT)

3.Allan Cooke (USA)

Maxxis Slopestyle in

Memory of McGazza

1.Emil Johansson

(SWE)

2.Timothe Bringer

(FRA)

3.Max Fredriksson

(SWE)

King & Queen of

Crankworx

1.Bas van Steenbergen

(CAN) // Caroline

Buchanan (AUS)

2.Tomas Lemoine (FRA)

// Vaea Verbeeck (CAN)

3.Samuel Blenkinsop

(NZL) // Jordy Scott

(USA)


Because it’s all

about you

Come cycling in stunning

Central Otago and let the

experts look after

all your needs

> Clutha Gold Trail

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

and more...

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days

Cromwell Bike Shop open Monday - Saturday

NEW SHOP NOW OPEN IN WANAKA open 7 days

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

uapehu's

greatest

hits...five

fantastic

day-hikes

With Tongariro National Park and

Whanganui National Park at its

doorstep, Ruapehu is a region

brimming with world-class hikes in the

most diverse outdoor playground you

can imagine. From dramatic volcanic

landscapes, ancient lava flows to alpine

valleys, sacred rivers and mountain

streams, this natural wonderland is

made for off the beaten track explorers

who seek authentic, immersive travels

to truly connect to people and place.

So grab your gear, family or friends and

find out why Ruapehu reigns supreme

as the Central North Island’s ultimate

hiking holiday destination.

"Ruapehu is a region

brimming with worldclass

hikes in the

most diverse outdoor

playground you can

imagine."

Hiking in Tongariro National Park


1.Tama Lakes

A spectacular alternative to the Tongariro Alpine

Crossing, the Tama Lakes Track is a 17.6 km return

day hike that journeys through otherworldly alpine

and volcanic landscapes. An extension of the

Taranaki Falls Track, the Tama Lakes Track begins

in Whakapapa Village just 100m from the Tongariro

National Park Visitor Centre. Lower in elevation with

less uphill walking and exposure to alpine conditions,

the Tama Lakes Track will take you through a

stunning exploration of Tongariro National Park with

phenomenal views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Ruapehu

as well as the glistening lower and upper Tama Lakes.

2.Tupapakurua Falls

An absolute hidden gem in the Erua Forest

Conservation Area, the Tupapakurua Falls Track is an

11 km return tramp situated in National Park Village.

Enter a lush green landscape of native bush with an

incredible variety of plant and tree species including

tawa, rimu, miro and totara creating a haven full of

birdlife and melodic birdsong as you arrive to the first

lookout point with beautiful views of Mt Taranaki and

Mt Ruapehu. You’ll also discover a local community

initiative in place called Helping Hands which allows

visitors to actively help maintain the track by carrying

buckets of gravel to key stations along the way.

Descend to the Tupapakurua Falls Lookout and enjoy

panoramic views of the cascading falls in all its glory.

3.Taranaki Falls

With two national parks side by side, it’s no wonder

Ruapehu is a region full of enchanting waterfalls.

The ever-popular Taranaki Falls Track is located in

the heart of Whakapapa Village on State Highway

48 in Tongariro National Park. This short day hike

is an easy 6 km loop walking track and offers a

spectacular variety of terrain and landscapes as you

wander through beech forest, alpine shrublands,

mountain streams, flowing red tussock and ancient

lava flow. Soak up the views of the iconic peaks of

Mt Ngāuruhoe, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ruapehu before

arriving at the base of captivating Taranaki Falls as it

cascades 20 m over the edge of a large lava flow.

4.Waitonga Falls

Located in the charming mountain town of Ohakune,

also known as NZ’s carrot capital, the Waitonga Falls

Track begins 11 km up Ohakune Mountain Road. An

easy 4 km return via the same track, you’ll wind your

way through mountain beech, kaikawaka forest and

alpine wetlands, and on a clear day, enjoy majestic

views of Mt Ruapehu. The 39 m Waitonga Falls is

Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfall and is also

a favourite amongst the local community.

Top: Tupapakurua Falls, Image by Aex Pearce / Below: Waitonga Falls


5.Tongariro Alpine

Crossing

Renowned as one of the world’s best one day

hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a bucket

list contender that’s so incredible you’ll want

to come back and do this once in a lifetime

experience again. Trek 19.4 km of raw, rugged,

magnificent terrain of Tongariro National Park

- a UNESCO Dual World Heritage Site of

natural and cultural significance and NZ’s oldest

national park. In this environment, you can never

underestimate the elements so it’s important

to plan for your hike by bringing the right gear,

checking the weather, letting someone know

your plans, or better yet, going with a local

guide who can also organise accommodation,

track transport, and meals, so you can enjoy the

Tongariro Alpine Crossing to the max.

Above: Summer on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Below: Tongariro Alpine Crossing Emerald Lakes

Where to stay

From adventure lodges to riverside chalets and mountainside

chateaus, Ruapehu has a fantastic variety of glorious, gorgeous

accommodation options that will woo you to stay an extra night or two.

Weave your way through cosy alpine villages and charming mountain

towns as you journey along the Adventure Highway from Taumarunui,

National Park Village, Whakapapa Village, Ohakune to Waiouru.

Waking up with the mountains at your doorstep or the river running by

is the perfect inspiration for exploring the great outdoors. With many

accommodation operators offering special summer packages, it’s the

perfect time to grab a deal to stay and play in Ruapehu this summer.

Where to eat, drink and be merry

Active holidays mean you get to fuel up on the good stuff and indulge

in a few treats as well. There’s no shortage of fantastic food and

beverage to enjoy in Ruapehu where you can tour a local meadery

and brewery and book a tasting, indulge in world-famous chocolate

eclairs, Devonshire tea in a 5-star garden of national significance,

fantastic food trucks, boutique bakeries, bakehouses, tantalising

toasties and even picnic with alpacas.

Safety in our greater outdoors

The weather in Tongariro National Park is changeable all year

round so it’s best to prepare and pack for all weather conditions. It’s

important to let someone know of your plans, check for any alerts from

the Department of Conservation’s website and download the free Plan

my Walk app developed by the NZ Mountain Safety Council. You can

learn more about it at:

https://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/about-plan-my-walk/

Start planning for an unforgettable Ruapehu summer at www.visitruapehu.com


SUMMER IS

RIGHT HERE

STAY IN RUAPEHU FOR YOUR GREAT WALK ADVENTURE

The Ruapehu region is home to Two Great Walks and New Zealand’s only Great Walk that is entirely on water!

The variety and vast wonderlands really do make for an awesome summer holiday!

For more information head to our website:

Degrees of change

Are climate changes of a few degrees a cause for concern?

It is so easy to do nothing. But what can you do about it?

In New Zealand, we are isolated, but with that comes

exposure; we are not entrenched in a large European city or

in some small town in the centre of the Midwest of America,

miles from the coast, we are exposed, and we joke that in New

Zealand that we get ‘four seasons in one day’.

That is exposure, and with that exposure should come

awareness.

Now we are not saying this year’s poor ski season in the North

Island had anything to do with global warming, nor that our

local sea levels are obviously warmer over summer for longer,

and that there are now fish typically seen in the tropics now in

our east coast waters, that the flooding in Australia, the forest

fires in the US, the glacial melt in Antarctica might have nothing

to do with global warming and climate change – but it might.

As ex-president Obama said,

"We are the first generation to feel the effect

of climate change and the last generation

who can do something about it."

Surprisingly, the global temperature during the last ice age

was only 7-9 degrees colder than now – now that does not

seem like a lot, but even a change of 1 degree has widespread

changes in regional and local temperature, creating rain which

equals flood and is the cause of other extreme weather events.

The government website www.genless.govt.nz has a range of

important ideas, both personally and for business so that you

can have an effect.

This is from their everyday life list:

• Eat low-carbon and minimise food waste

• Choose slow fashion

• Set good digital habits

• Measure your impact

• Shop sustainably

• Invest ethically

• Support business action

They also have a list of practical ideas

• Bike to work

• Meat-free Fridays

• Flight free holidays

• Join conversations get a voice

• Tell leaders what you want

• Get Informed

Check out how you can help www.genless.govt.nz/

Genless website open with a simple and challenging

statement...

"History will only

remember what we do."

We are seeing even greater warming over land than oceans,

moistening of the atmosphere, shifts in regional rain patterns,

changes in regional temperatures, increases in extreme

weather events, ocean acidification, melting glaciers, and rising

sea levels the list just goes on and on.

There are numerous examples of the worst climatic and

catastrophic events on record in the last two years; heatwaves,

tornados, cyclones, flooding, rising seas level, bushfires,

and droughts. There is an equally extensive list of ‘potential’

causes, now, there are always naysayers that will have us

believe that it is simply nature at work, a process of natural

change.

But the simple observation is this. Man has had an enormous

impact on the world, we have changed the natural structure,

affected the chemical balance, polluted, poisoned, chopped

down and consumed, and it would be incredibly naive to

consider that this has no impact on the world environment.



in my

opinion

So we reached out to some of our adventure

community to see their thoughts about Global

Warming and Climate Change. Here's what they

had to say...

Frankie Sanders

Global warming, fact or fiction? Thanks for posing those

questions. Great topic. I do however feel like the answers to

those questions are multilayered, complex, and very difficult to

summarise briefly.

I've been writing blogs covering some of the environmental impacts

pertinent to our business, and I find I simply can't keep the words

down, in fact, each blog just leads to another one tackling another

aspect of the same conversation.

I think it is hard (at least for me) to be definitive and concise around

such huge topics. And I actually don't think that there is any one

silver bullet that can reverse our current situation.

Lauren Murray

Global warming, fact or fiction? Totally fact. I’ve

noticed snow coming less - winters shortened,

summers lasting longer. Seasons are out of balance.

Both in NZ and I’ve noticed it overseas.

Is there any one thing that you personally feel we

should all be doing to assist in solving the issue?

We all need to cut back on eating meat. I really don’t

think there’s a more obvious and easier achieved

solution than that.

I no longer eat meat, and do my best with reduction

of all animal products. I use reusable items where

possible, and avoid certain products/brands/companies

depending on their impact on the climate.

We aren’t too late but, we aren’t far. My kids will see

the damage exponentially. And I am skeptical that

it will change. Humans are, on a whole, too greedy

and selfish. And travelling this year again has made

me more sure of this, unfortunately. I have seen just

how behind or how far to go certain communities

and people, which make up HUGE population (i.e.

Americans/America) have before they get to where

it feels like we in NZ (where work is STILL needed)

currently are.

There are many actionable ways people can be involved in being

part of the solution for our environmental situation, and different

people will find some outlets easier than others. So I think it's about

providing choices and options for engagement not pinning down

'one' thing, which seems pretty confrontational.

Whilst we are pretty much at a crisis point in climate change we

have to believe that we can still bring the ship around, without

belief, there can be no collective agency. As Margaret Mead would

say "Never doubt that a small group of [organised] thoughtful,

committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing

that ever has". (brackets added).

And whilst that is a pretty fanciful idea in the face of the climate

crisis, 'small groups' are our environmental movements working

to provide those realistically achievable changes, whether it be

people's lifestyle choices, lobbying the government, or challenging

and disrupting corporate stasis. What they all share is the belief

that we can have a collective impact.

I think it is important for people to remember that we do all have

agency in our decisions and that Big Corp is affected by all of

us, and whilst it seems that we are such tiny particles in the

big machine, we create the 'demand' in 'supply and demand', if

everyone stopped buying a product tomorrow that company could

not exist.

The other part of this is if we cannot escape our demand (i.e.

you have a gasoline car so need petroleum) then we also can

have our collective voice heard on the way that Big Corp conduct

themselves, holding companies to account, and supporting

companies that have environmentally focused decision making.

Honestly, I could talk for days...

Global warming, fact or fiction? Fact: We used to get way more snow on Mt Taranaki and

Ruapehu and for a longer winter. Now we are lucky to get 1 day up Taranaki and 1 week up

Ruapehu.

Is there any one thing that you personally feel we should all be doing to assist in

solving the issue? There’s so many things that can affect it and people can’t do everything

but yea if we all tried to do a little bit more, even one thing each, then it might help. Better to

try than to wonder what if! I like to think I’m helping by being vegetarian and very conscious

of where the things I buy come from and how they’re etc. So I think it’s possible that we

could all eat less/no meat.

Paige Hareb

Are we simply too late to fix the issue? Who knows! But I’d rather us all try now than look

back and say ‘shoulda, coulda, woulda’


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Banks Track

Akaroa

New Zealand

BANKS

TRACK,

Akaroa

Where in the world could an adventuring hiker traverse the

rim of an ancient volcanic complex, with sweeping panoramas

out across open ocean and inwards up an 8 mile volcanic

harbour? Where could you spend the night inside a private

white-flippered penguin sanctuary, see the world’s smallest

dolphins with their rounded fins, watch fur seals in numbers

and spot many rare land and marine birds? Where could you

hear a dawn chorus, such a cacophony that you will never

forget it? And walk through the famous “Fools and Dreamers”

Hinewai Reserve, 1500 hectares of native forest, with its

ancient beech, tree ferns, fuchsia and rapidly regenerating

native flora and fauna? All this and more on the Banks Track!

This unique, extinct, highly eroded, volcanic complex

forming Banks Peninsula, is situated east of Christchurch

on New Zealand’s South Island, providing the remarkably

varied landscape of the Banks Track. It starts by winding up

through open farmland at the far south-eastern end, boasting

widespread views from Ōnuku along the inner harbour and

out over 'the heads'. Walkers climb up over the crater rim at

Trig GG (699m,) with its 360 degree panorama, from which

you can see Aoraki / Mt Cook, 230km away, on a clear

day! The Track descends one of the outer valleys, through

Tutakākāhikura Scenic Reserve (full of ancient red beech

trees), following the stream where rock formations have

created multiple waterfalls, down into Flea Bay, the home of

the Pōhatu Penguin Reserve. From here the Track follows the

outer ocean coastline, along spectacular cliff tops, dropping

down past Seal Cove and alongside the Sooty Shearwater

Reserve, then on into Stony Bay. On the final day, the Track

turns and heads inland following another outer valley up

through Hinewai with its verdant, regenerating and ancient

native forest, crossing back over the crater rim. From here

there are stunning views south and east across the vast

Pacific and westward to sheltered Akaroa harbour. Beyond

are the Southern Alps and Kaikoura mountains.

3 spectacular days and 3 magical nights

Hike the volcanic hills of Banks Peninsula

Enjoy panoramas from the crater rim and along coastal

cliff tops. Walk through lush native forest with tree ferns,

waterfalls and abundant bird life. Stay in secluded bays and

gaze into our magnificent night skies. This walk Is self guided

and self catered, but we carry your bags. NZD 390 pp

bankstrack.co.nz

Volcanic activity, between 11 and 6 million years ago, led

to the formation of two overlapping volcanic cones. When

eruptions ceased, the cones were gradually eroded to about

half their original height flooding a major south facing valley.

Walkers can be reassured that there is no known magma

chamber beneath the volcano and there has not been any

sign of volcanic activity in the last 5 million years!

In 1989, a few neighbouring Banks Peninsula farming

families, together with the newly founded Hinewai Native

Forest Reserve, set out to rescue their livelihoods in the face

of a farming downturn and established New Zealand’s first

private walking track. 33 years on, through their intensive

conservation efforts, they have rescued much more than

themselves! All the Banks Track landowners are passionate

about conservation and consequently, following years of

forest regeneration, dedicated trapping of predators and

(ongoing!) hard work, this track offers a feast of Kiwi native

flora and fauna.

Ōnuku where walkers arrive for their first night’s

accommodation, is still maintained as farmland by Tristan

Hamilton (a professional trapper) and boasts wonderful views

in all directions. The iconic New Zealandtui were re-released

on the Peninsula in 2009,having become almost extinct here.

They are now flourishing at Ōnuku and can

be seen with bellbirds, slivereyes, kereru

(native pigeon),fantails, welcome swallows

and many other native birds in the gardens.

Ōnuku faces north and west over the

harbour and their sunsets are legendary!

On the first day’s walking there are two

side tracks. One runs along a ridge through

the new DOC Nīkau Palm Reserve. From

the ridge end, one has a glorious view

over The Akaroa Heads to the ocean. The

second takes you on a short detour to Look

Out Rock an ancient sentry post where one

can look both ways to see the full length of

the inner harbour.

Banks Track offers exceptional marine

and forest birdlife. On the second night

walkers sleep in the heart of the Pōhatu

Penguin Reserve. An evening penguin tour

is included in the Track experience and

you can learn about the fascinating story

behind Francis and Shireen Helps’ efforts

to rescue and establish their penguin

colony which is now flourishing. When

Francis was a boy, penguins walked the

streets of Akaroa! However, penguins are

ground nesting and the population was

decimated by predators. The Helps took

over farming Flea Bay with just a handful

in residence and dedicated themselves

to creating a sanctuary for them. Flea

Bay has 1260 breeding penguin pairs

– the largest little penguin population

on mainland New Zealand. If you are

lucky, watching these little white-flippered

penguins come on shore out of the water

is magical and you will see them close up,

as guides monitor nesting boxes, often

with their young during the main breeding

season Oct - Dec. After the night in Flea

Bay, there is an option for a morning kayak

through the Pōhatu Marine Reserve,

the first marine reserve created on the

east coast of South Island. Flea Bay has

abundant fur seals (curious seals often

like swimming round your kayak!) and the

round finned hector dolphins, which are

the smallest dolphins in the world and only

found in New Zealand.

Mark and Soni Armstrong live at Stony Bay

on a farm that has been in the family for

over 125 years and, alongside protecting

their own little penguins over the years,

they have helped bring the peninsula’s

last sooty shearwater (otherwise known as

mutton birds or tītī) colony back from the

brink of extinction.Stony Bay was down to

three birds in 1999 when Mark decided to

act. He built a predator-proof chicken-wire

fence following the contours of the steeply

descending paddocks, where the birds

burrow along the cliff edge. A year after

the fence was built there were five or six

eggs, and today the colony of about 50

nesting holes – a "hive of activity" – is the

only mainland colony on the peninsula.

Traps inside and outside the protected

enclosure provide added predator control,

and scientific and conservation groups

support the protection work. It is here at

Stony Bay that the dawn chorus on an

early summer morning has to be heard to

be believed! This characterful and creative

collection of accommodations, the third

night on the Banks Track, is an absolute

favourite with all the walkers. It was hand

built by Mark and crafted mainly from

home-milled macrocarpa and demolition

finds, with a pool table, an outdoor hot bath

and a shower built into a large gnarled

macrocarpa stump. You can have a bath

under the stars and gaze into magnificent

unpolluted night skies.

On the third and final day, Banks Track

walkers are lucky enough to walk through

Hinewai Reserve on a newly created

track up through Stony Bay valley to the

crater rim, before dropping back down

into Akaroa. Hinewai is fast becoming a

legend and is inspiring people round the

globe as to how we can use Nature to

do much of the regeneration work for us.

This ever expanding reserve was started

35 years ago when Maruice White raised

funds to purchase conservation land on

the Peninsula. He found Hugh Wilson,

the renowned botanist, who has made

Hinewai his lifetime’s work from the first

day. A wonderfully inspiring video has

been released “Fools and Dreamers”

which has been watched by hundreds of

thousands over the planet on You Tube.

Most of the reserve is a mosaic of native

forest in various stages of development,

including old growth red beech forest.

Ancient podocarp trees (tōtara, mataī

and kahikatea) survive here. The biggest

podocarp and beech trees are several

centuries old. The track traverses tall

forest, kānuka forest, mixed hardwood

forest (fuchsia, māhoe, fivefinger,

sevenfinger, broadleaf, kōwhai, kaikōmako,

putaputāwētā, lacebark, ribbonwood, etc.),

gorse, broom, grassy clearings, bracken,

bluffs and tussockland. More than 60

species of fern, including six species of

tree fern, grow on Hinewai.

Whilst many of New Zealand’s other

walks have become crowded, here only a

maximum of 16 walkers per day can set

out. You walk at your own pace in your own

time. Self guided and self catered, but we

carry your packs from accommodation to

accommodation. Traversing such a vast

landscape each walker feels he/she has

it to themselves. Banks Track offers a

chance to re-engage with the natural world.

It offers a uniquely Kiwi experience.

www.bankstrack.co.nz

www.facebook.com/BanksTrack/

Instagram @bankstrack

Phone: 03 304 7612

Email: bankstrack@xtra.co.nz


three go

wild in

taranaki

By Lynne Dickinson

I have spent a bit of time in Taranaki, back in the day when

the World Surf Tour used to visit its shores. Taranaki, and in

particular, Surf Highway 45 that heads around the coast, is world

renowned and this was almost the extent of my exploration of the

region. So, when a friend suggested a few days exploring New

Plymouth and the surrounding area, I was keen to go.

Flights, accommodation and car hire booked we got together

to plan the days ahead. High on the list of things we wanted to

do was to explore Mt Taranaki. (In the dialect of Taranaki Iwi,

mountain is referred to as mounga rather than maunga so we

will use this spelling when referring to Taranaki). I had read a lot

about the summit hike and knew a few people first-hand who had

escaped a close call on the mounga when the weather suddenly

turned bad. However, I knew little else about the tracks and trails

surrounding the mountain, of which there are many.

Mt Taranaki has an elevation of 2,518 meters and was first

ascended in 1839. It’s a dormant volcano and the highest point in

the North Island behind Mt Ruapehu. According to Māori legend,

Mt Taranaki once stood with the mountains of the central North

Island until a dispute over the maiden Pīhanga had Taranaki flee

his home carving out the Whanganui River on his journey to the

coast.

The area surrounding the mounga became Egmont National

Park in 1900, and the mounga was given an English name of Mt

Egmont by Captain Cook in 1770. The mounga is now referred

to by its traditional Māori name of Taranaki Mounga, with Egmont

National Park dually known as Te Papakura o Taranaki.

There are a few main entry points to the Egmont National Park/Te

Papakura o Taranaki; Egmont Road on the north side; York Road

and Pembroke Road on the east and Manaia Road on the south.

After some local advice we decided to do the Pouākai Tarns Track

but headed up the wrong access road and found ourselves at

the Taranaki/Egmont National Park Visitor Centre. Explaining our

“wrong turn” we asked for advice and with the clouds closing in

they suggested making the most of the fine weather we had now

and heading up the Holly Hut Track instead and coming back via

the Veronica Loop Track when we felt we’d walked far enough.


Mt Taranaki as seen from the ocean at Back Beach - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki

Leaving the Visitors Centre, the trail followed a boardwalk

through the bush before reaching a series of steps that seemed

to go on forever. It’s no surprise that many of the hikes on

Taranaki Mounga require some climbing, the mounga has a

distinctive cone shape with only one way to go, and that was

up.

The climb up the steps took us to a platform that looked out

over the whole of North Taranaki. We were lucky that the

weather was still clear, and the clouds were only obscuring

the top of the mountain so we could still see all the way up

the coast. A few more metres further up and the bush cleared,

and we found ourselves in typical alpine terrain of tussock

and rocks. With the clearing of the surrounding bush, the

temperature seemed to fall sharply, and you could see how

easily people get in trouble on alpine hikes. Note to make sure

you pack for all weather conditions…

From here the track lead steeply up a scoria-like path before

edging round the side of the mounga. We cautiously scrambled

over what appeared to be a dried riverbed (surprising

considering the amount of rain we had been experiencing) with

large rocky boulders littering the floor, before continuing past

the impressive towering lava columns of the Dieffenbach Cliffs.

Above: The trail map

Right: On our way down

from the Holly Hut Track

just before we reached

the steps. The views from

here were incredible.

Image by Linda Lennon


We had been walking for a couple of hours before the temperature

dropped considerably so we decided to head back before the

cloud came in and obscured our views. I’m often reluctant to do

a tramp that is in and out on the same track; however, facing the

opposite direction exposed us to a completely different view so it

was just as enjoyable on the way down.

When we reached the fork for the Veronica Loop Track we left the

steps behind and followed a clearly marked trail through the bush

back to the Visitors Center. Their advice had been excellent so I

would thoroughly recommend chatting to them before setting off

on your hike for the day.

The second day of our adventure we had decided to explore the

local area by bike. Having flown down, we hired bikes from Cycle

Inn in New Plymouth and set off to explore the New Plymouth

Coastal Walkway. The walkway covers a distance of 13.2km from

Port Taranaki to the eastern side of Bell Block Beach and is paved

the whole way. We set off alongside the water at the Wind Wand

and headed out to Bell Block.

The Coastal Walkway is an excellent way to get around, great

for walking, running, skating and e-scootering. We followed the

shoreline down to Fitzroy Beach, over the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge

and past the Ngāmotu Golf Course before heading slightly inland

past the Taranaki Bike Park and finishing at Bell Block Beach.

The ride was easy, and we had plans to spend the afternoon

exploring some of the other biking areas close to town; however,

on our return trip the weather changed dramatically and we found

ourselves riding into a strong headwind against a battering of sleet

and hail. So, we ditched the bikes and went shopping instead!

There are plenty of unique shops in Taranaki so after an afternoon

exploring we all came home with a holiday keepsake. We also

found some great places to eat, our morning routine started with

breakfast and coffee at Chaos, a cool cafe with great atmosphere

and great food.

There are so many areas to explore by bike in Taranaki; Lake

Mangamahoe has an excellent mountain bike park not far from

the city, with trails for all levels and there are numerous cycleways

to explore in the region, including the Forgotten World Highway

timber trail, Kiwi Road Loop, Uruti Valley Loop Trail, Te Henui

Walkway, and the Huatoki Walkway. Next time we will drive down

and bring our bikes for sure.

The following morning we started the day with a short walk to

Pukepura Park. Situated in the heart of New Plymouth, the

52ha park is one of NZ's premier botanical gardens and is truly

beautiful. It is also host to a string of events and concerts including

the annual TSB Festival of Lights and is well worth a visit.

We then headed back to the mounga, this time to the southern

access point to explore Dawson Falls. After the weather had

turned cold the day before we had heard that there had been

snow falling in Stratford, but nothing could prepare us for the

scene that greeted us on the drive up to Dawson Falls Visitor

Centre. We felt like we had driven into a scene from Narnia, with

snow covering the ground and trees around us.

We had not anticipated snow at this time of year, and we were

poorly prepared. We had hoped to walk up to Wilkies Pools and

complete the circuit to Dawson Falls but our lack of appropriate

clothing for the conditions meant we restricted ourselves to the

shorter circuit walk to Dawson Falls just to be on the safe side.

It was a magical experience. The forest was like a fairytale and

Dawson Falls impressive with the snow covering the rocks around

us.

Top to bottom: Helen walking Holly Hut Track Walk

The bridge at Pukepura Park

Our last day at Dawson Falls in the snow (Image by random stranger)

With our trip coming to an end we felt we had hardly touched

what there was to see and do in Taranaki and so will definitely be

back… this time just a little better prepared.

On a fine day,Te Rewa Rewa bridge creates an impressive frame for Mt Taranaki - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki

There are loads of places to bike in Taranaki; left - The Forgotten Highway

Right top: Lake Mangamahoe / Bottom right: The foreshore Coastal Walkway

Images complements of Venture Taranaki


discover taranaki

Taranaki has so much to offer.

Top to bottom: Surfing year round

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery

Horse Riding on Tongaporutu Beach


With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the

picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s

sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round. With a

dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks and gardens, adventure

activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and world-renowned arts and

cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like no other.

TEMPT YOUR TASTEBUDS

With a bustling food and beverage scene, your foodie journey around

Taranaki isn’t limited! Many eateries offer paddock-to-plate style

menus spotlighting local produce, so visiting foodies are in for a treat.

Locally roasted coffee, craft beer, and talented chefs have all helped

to create a lively café, restaurant, and bar scene like no other.

CATCH CONTEMPORARY ART

Taranaki is brimming with creativity, and there’s no shortage of local

art galleries or studios to visit to discover your own piece of Taranaki

art. Head to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre, New

Zealand’s only contemporary art gallery, or Lysaght Watt Gallery,

a community gallery in South Taranaki. Percy Thomson Gallery in

Stratford is a free public art gallery.

REST AND REJUVENATE

If you’ve completed one the many stunning tracks or trails around

Taranaki Maunga, relax and unwind at The Floatation Sanctuary

on Devon Street in New Plymouth. Hit your reset button by floating

weightlessly in a luxurious mineral-rich environment – great for

healing tight or sore muscles.

HISTORY BUFF

Check out local history in South Taranaki with a visit to Tawhiti

Museum and adjoining Traders & Whalers, where history comes to

life in incredible detail. Widely regarded as the best private museum

in Aotearoa, Tawhiti Museum features thousands of life-size models

and scale figures to tell the history of Taranaki.

Start planning your escape to Taranaki today – find more inspiration

for things to see and do this summer at www.taranaki.co.nz/visit.

Pouākai Crossing

YOUR PERFECT

TARANAKI

ADVENTURE AWAITS

Discover a region brimming with unique attractions and stunning

natural landscapes to entice even the most intrepid of adventurers.

With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the

picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s

sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round.

With a dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks, walkways and

gardens, adventure activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and worldrenowned

arts and cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like

no other.

Start planning your escape to Taranaki today.

Make a weekend of it!

For more inspiration on things to see and do in Taranaki, visit: taranaki.co.nz/visit

AN INITIATIVE OF VENTURE TARANAKI

X posure

Photographer: Matt Power,

Athlete: Unknown,

Location: Siargao Island, Philippines

Matt Power / Red Bull Illume

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The perfect accessory for lovers of the outdoors.

Easily move your tent, camping gear and mount

your chilly when too heavy to carry.


sea to summit Drylite Towel XXL $69.99

When comfort, weight and packed size matters, the Drylite

Towel is perfect. Made from a luxuriously soft microfiber

fabric with a 'ultrasuede' finish, this towel is super absorbent

and quick drying - plus it packs down small.

• Made of 80% recycled polyester, 20% nylon

• Very packable- it's lighter and more compact than our Tek

Towel

• Hang loop with press stud

• Mesh-faced storage pouch

• Machine washable

Find a Stockist: WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

kiwi camping boost lED light with Powerbank $89.99

Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate

your tent and charge devices on the go.

Features 11 light modes including SOS

signal, built-in magnets and hanging hook.


sea to summit Camp Kitchen Tool Kit 10 Piece $69.99

Hang this compact kit in your camp kitchen and you'll

have most things you need on hand to create - and

clean up after - gourmet outdoor meals. The kit contains

everything from empty leakproof bottles for oils and

condiments, to a folding spatula and serving spoon, to a

pot scrubber, washcloth and dishcloth.

Find a Stockist: WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

kiwi camping Flexi Light Strip White/Orange $79.99

A 1.3m long LED strip fitted with white/

orange LED lights to illuminate your tent

and deter bugs and insects. IP65-waterresistant

and includes carry bag.


Chair Zero High-back $299.99

With a taller back for added support and

comfort, the Chair Zero High-back has the

same DNA as Chair Zero, an ultralight,

compact, go-anywhere chair. The Chair Zero

High-Back is a good choice for activities

where weight saving is top of mind, such as

backpacking, kayak tours, moto-touring or

bikepacking.


Jetboil stash $299.95

The Lightest and Most Compact

Jetboil Ever. We know your

dreams are big and ambitious.

Which is why we designed the

all-new Stash to be lightweight

and compact, maximizing your

pack space without sacrificing

that iconic Jetboil performance.

At 7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash

is 40% lighter than the .8L Zip.

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

OOahh Recovery Slides – Men’s & Women’s $99.99

When you slide on a pair of lightweight

OOFOS you will instantly feel the support

and comfort your joints and muscles are

needing after adventures.

WWW.OOFOS.CO.NZ

merrell Hydro Moc Elements - Air $109.00

Built with the outdoors in mind, the Hydro Moc

has taken the world by storm. To continue the

excitement the limited edition Hydro Moc Elements

is inspired by the 4 basic elements. Using

advanced construction techniques, this easy on

/ easy off shoe is more durable than others of its

kind–for days spent in and around water.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

Rumpl Everywhere Towels $89.99

Designed to repel sand, odour, and stains - our

Everywhere Towels are also lightweight, packable, and

quick drying – making them an essential piece of gear.

WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ

hydro flask 18L Soft Cooler Tote & 20L Soft Cooler Back Pack

$419.99-$499.99

Our Day Escape Bags are designed to deliver

36-hours of cold insulation in a lightweight, leakproof

and durable construction. We’re here to fuel your

adventure.

WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ

Merrell Hydro Runner - Men’s $179.00

Built with an EVA shell and breathable mesh upper for a

lightweight and flexible fit, the Hydro Runner is a perfect

choice for staying cool on busy days. Merrell sticky rubber

outsole with durable traction that grips when and where

you need it, you can look good without slowing down.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $329.90

The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking shoe built for

enhanced performance and control in a wide spectrum of mountain

terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede leather upper ensures good comfort

and protection and is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see

off rock and scree. The Vibram® Alpine Hiking outsole excels in wet and

muddy conditions thanks to its dedicated climbing, traction, braking zones

and aggressive lug pattern.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 450 g (W) 350 g (pictured)

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $329.90

Engineered for technical terrain, the Wildfire 2 is a lightweight, agile and

precise tech approach shoe with a breathable recycled synthetic mesh

upper, and a 360° protective rand. It’s equipped with climbing lacing for

fine adjustment in the toe-area and a lateral net system with Kevlar®

cables for better overall performance and sensitivity. The POMOCA®

outsole with Butylic compound rubber is designed for precision and

sensitivity in mixed mountain terrain and ensures good grip on rock in both

wet and dry conditions.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g (Pictured) (W) 305 g


SALEWA WILDFIRE CANVAS $279.90

The breathable recycled cotton and hemp canvas upper is protected

by a full 360° TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated Kevlar®

cables provides additional support and greater stability at the heel,

while ensuring a precise fit. The dual density ECO Ortholite® footbed

promotes superior cushioning, and the Pomoca outsole offers secure

grip during light hiking and approach activities.

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (W) 256 g (pictured)


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GTX $459.90

The next generation of our men’s bestselling, robust and reliable alpine

trekking boot. This hard-wearing suede leather classic with a 360° full

protective rubber rand is even lighter and more flexible. Equipped with a

waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort membrane, a

dual density expanded PU midsole, and the self-cleaning Vibram® WTC

2 outsole is engineered for improved grip and traction in a wide range of

conditions. Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g (Due AW23)


GLERUPS HONEY RUBBER AND BLACK RUBBER SHOE $189.00

When you are camping, you need a shoe that is good on

all surfaces including inside the tent or the hut.

Made from 100% natural wool, glerups provides an

instant comfy at home feeling. They are light, versatile,

and well worth the space in your backpack.

Get natural, get cosy and get yourself some glerups.

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ


Go against the flow.

Our amphibious outcast is water friendly and friendly to water.

Transforming polluted water and air with BLOOM EVA,

a performance foam that uses 10% recycled algae biomass.

Available in many colours for Men, Women and Kid’s.

merrell.co.nz

ONE FOR THE ROAD - proceed with caution amber

ale $7.95

This all season medium-bodied lager

showcases both malt and hops. It follows

with a toasty malt character with only a

subtle hop bitterness.

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front

label on their pouches have changed for the

better by adding Health Star Ratings and

energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They

have also improved the readability of our

back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available

at leading retailers. For more information

or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.

backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Apple & Berry Crumble $13.99

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and

berries topped with a delicious gluten

free cookie crumb.

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free


tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,

cheese and vegetables.

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free

Available small serve (90g) or regular

(175g)


INSTANT PASTA $4.99

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked

pasta.

3.5 Health Stars

Sizes – Family 120g


local dehy kumAra chickpea curry

$17.50

Mildly spiced Indian curry

with spinach & brown rice.

Refuel after a day's adventure!

Dehydrated. Vegan. Home

compostable packaging.

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ

local dehy hummus $8.00

Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried

Tomato, also available in

Beetroot and Zesty Lemon.

Perfect for lunches on the trail.

Dehydrated. Vegan. Home

compostable packaging.

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ

Rab Alpine 600 Sleeping Bag $699.95 - $759.95

A mid-weight, 650FP three season,

duck down bag with a tough and wind

resistant Pertex® Quantam outer

with recycled nylon lining designed to

maximise warmth.

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00

Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite selfinflates

in minutes. The tapered design can fit in

a sleeping bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.


exped ULTRA Duo 3R Sleeping Mat (medium) $449.99

Lightweight, packable mat for two with

light insulation. Features include two

independent sides to customise the mat

for each sleeper, a tapered shape to shave

weight and bulk, a recycled 20D ripstop

face fabric, 60gm/2 Texpedloft microfibre

insulation and 7cm-thick chambers with

fatter chambers at the sides to reduce the

chance of you rolling off. Certified carbon

neutral by myclimate. R-value 2.9. 830g

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Klymit Insulated Static V $229.95

The Insulated Static V packs light and small,

has a 4.4 R-value, body-mapped shape and V

chamber design for comfort, lofty Klymalite

insulation, and side rails.

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

kiwi camping Mamaku Camper +5°C Sleeping Bag $94.99

Packed full of features, the Kiwi Camping

Mamaku Camper is a great value-for-money

sleeping bag. Ideal for summer and packs

down small for lightweight adventures.


kiwi camping Tuatara 270° 2M Self-

Supporting Awning $999.00

Set up in under 1-minute,

the Tuatara 270° 2.0m Self-

Supporting Awning mounts to

your existing roof racks to open

out on the passenger side of

your vehicle.



Patagonia Hydrolock Boardshorts $169.99

Developed and tested to perform in the

world’s best waves. These lightweight,

high-performance boardies feature

streamlined four-way stretch, recycled

polyester and a contoured waistband

designed to keep your trunks in place

even when the surf’s as heavy as it gets.

Fair Trade Certified sewn.

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

Patagonia Fair Trade RØ® Top $69.99

These surf tops are made with light,

fast-drying NetPlus® 84% postconsumer

recycled nylon (made from recycled fishing

nets to help reduce ocean plastic pollution)

and 16% spandex. Excellent protection

from sun and wind, plus next-to-skin

comfort while paddling. M's and W's styles.

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

merrell Scout Hoody - Women’s $209.00

Get comfy in the Scout Hoody.

Designed with organic and recycled

materials that will make you feel

good about feeling good. Washing

garment results in a unique vintage

looking colour every time.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise

or Low Rise (USD $119.00)

Chickfly leggings are made

with soft, strong, stretchy

and sustainable bamboo

fabric, coloured with organic

dyes. Our patented fly is held

together by tension, creating

a seamless, flattering, soft,

and easy-to-use feature in the

most comfortable and stylish

black legging that every

woman needs not only for

style but for convenience and

functionality.

WWW.CHICKFLY.COM

cotopaxi Capa Insulated Jacket –

Men’s & Women’s $419.99

Made with the new Gold

P.U.R.E insulation from

PrimaLoft® and 100%

Recycled Nylon Shell. This

Jacket is a performance

layer, designed to be worn

all-year-round.

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ

merrell Hayes Jogger - Men’s $199.00

Meet the Hayes Jogger pant.

Made with 95% recycled nylon,

2-way stretch and PFC free

Durable Water Repellency

(DWR) finish for wind and water

resistance. these are your easyto-wear,

do anything joggers.

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ


make it a clear headed summer with clear head drinks!

NZ’s non-alcoholic drinks SUPERSTORE

Think beyond juice

and soft drinks...

Serve your guests

an amazing range

of wines, beers,

RTDs and mixers…

All deliciously

refreshing, and all

non-alcoholic.

Great range,

great prices,

let’s celebrate!

Stock up at Clear Head Drinks, and make sure you’ve got the best

selection of drinks at your festive party or summer barbecue.

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz

Winter boots are notoriously boring – not Fubuki

Surprisingly, each pair of

FUBUKI boots only weighs

around 1200grams, which

is super lightweight and

makes walking extremely

easy regardless of the

conditions; combined with

shock-absorbing heels

and a non-slip sole for

ice and slippery underfoot, FUBUKI makes for the perfect winter

footwear. These boots are made for walking. Add in the fact that

they are 100% waterproof; snow, slush, mud, and water, on a boat,

at work, on the ski field, or just keeping your feet warm at home,

FUBUKI is setting a unique standard of craftsmanship, design and

style. They come in both a high leg Niseko 2.0 and a boot format

Niseko 2.0 low.

FEATURED PRODUCTS...

"FUBUKI was designed as an alternative for

the snow-loving community. Skiers have long

been irreverent nonconformists. Lovers of

FUBUKI around the globe continue to shape

and cultivate a culture around the colourful

boots—one that’s fluid, unconventional,

and celebrates personal expression and

interpretation.

Occasionally a product comes along that does exactly

what it says it will and then more. FUBUKI, which

means snowstorm in Japanese, is from Sweden. In

Sweden, where it can get as low as -30, being that

close to the arctic circle, they know cold, snow, ice

and how to keep warm.

Get them at fubukiboots.com

In a world where tough and resistant

so often means rigid and boring,

FUBUKI represents an off-piste path

for those who confidently carve their

own tracks on winter’s blank canvas.”

NORSK and a new era in ice boxes

There are a lot of chilly bins for sale in the market... But they

are not all made equal.

The price point of Norsk sets it apart from others in the market

at over $200 cheaper than its rivals, however, Norsk does

not compromise quality, style, and engineering. At $299,

the 45-litre box is exceptionally robust; I even used it as a

ladder to access my car roof box. Norsk box is solid, virtually

indestructible and will not negatively react in the sun as it is UV

resistant. But the Norske is not just a great ladder and a seat,

its real use is to keep things cold, and it does that well.

The pressure-injected polyurethane foam creates a sealed

environment that keeps stuff cold for extended periods of

time. We evaluated the Norsk by putting a single frozen pack

of squid in the box, sealing it

and only opening the chest

twice a day to look. The

product stayed frozen solid

until day four! And even after

that only defrosted slowly.

The freezer box is sealed with

a silicone gasket that keeps

cold in and heat out. There is

a simple draining system as

well, which makes it easy to

flush the defrosting ice.

The stunning 45-litre box

The box weighs around 9kgs, it is 34cm high and 42cm wide

and 65cm long. It has easy-to-use handles that are part of the

box moulding and an additional rope handle for easy lifting.

Norsk has thought outside the box; excuse the pun. and added

non-slip feet, which in a car or on a boat is a real asset, there

is a locking option in the lid and robust rubber clips to keep the

top locked down.

Inside the box, there is a carry cage which sits on the rim and

is excellent for keeping things separate. For further division,

there is a wall divider in the middle of the box, which is

removable (this also doubles as a chopping board).

It feels as if we have been waiting for this affordable freezer

box to come along, and now it’s finally here – summer is going

to be a lot more fun. We evaluated the 45-liter box, but Norsk

also comes as a 12-litre, 65-litre, 85-litre and the big daddy

120-litre.

You can see them all at www.norsk.co.nz (online purchases

are available)


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years.

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some

you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to

feed your adventure addiction.

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

Building versatile and reliable gear so you

can adventure with purpose.

www.keaoutdoors.com

Temerature. Taste. Transport.

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.

www.hydroflask.co.nz

Our mission is to produce

the best quality beers

possible across a range of

flavours and styles and to

have fun doing it!

www.dcbrewing.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Our very own online store where

you will find hard goods to keep you

equipped for any adventure.

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

www.lightandfast.co.nz

Zerofit is a range of base layers

and lifestyle clothing straight

out of science fiction.

Using your body movement, it

keeps you warm and improves

your performance.

www.zerofit.com.au

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.

www.localdehy.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

Norsk designs and builds ice coolers that without fail,

will not fail. Perfect for your hard out adventures.

Free shipping within New Zealand.

www.norsk.co.nz

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents,

outdoor clothing and more.

www.livingsimply.co.nz

www.glerups.co.nz

glerups shoes, slippers

and boots are known for

their exceptional comfort

and unique design.

Over the years we have

perfected the wool mix

by blending Gotland

wool with quality wool

from New Zealand

farmers.

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both

adventure and global change, by dedicating a

percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve

the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

With stores in Clyde and

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is

your access point to the

Central Otago Bike trials: T

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge

and more...

New Zealand’s first online

store solely dedicated to

Non Alcoholic adult drinks.

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

t r a v e l

Satuiatua

Lagoon

Sunday was interrupted by an unwelcome

call from my cycle guide Uilau “The Satuiatua

Beach Fales kitchen and dining room have just

burnt down.” Before I could fully digest the

news, Uilau added “everyone is OK – but what

do you want to do with our guests arriving there

on Thursday?”

Located on the south coast of Savaii, Samoa,

Satuiatua is the only lagoon for 40 kms in

either direction and a key stop for cyclists. The

fales are nestled under giant banyan trees,

that shade the entire resort and steadily drop

tiny, nut-like figs onto the tin roofs of the fales.

The dining room balcony was a great place to

sit and watch the tell-tale spouts of migrating

whales in September, while the marine reserve

in the lagoon beside the fales provided an

excellent drift snorkel through the coral and

dense schools of tropical fish. The full drift is

not for everyone, and it only works near high

tide. Less than a month ago we had swum this,

being pulled steadily by the current through the

small canyons of coral. Gradually the canyons

shallow out and the last part of the snorkel is

in two feet of water. Here we surprised a turtle

and were able to swim quietly right up to it while

it feasted on vegetation deep in a hole in the

coral. I grabbed the shell to check it wasn’t

stuck, and it quickly flippered away. If asked,

Uilau loves to show guests the reef by night.

Night spearfishing is popular in Samoa and

while he wont take his spear, his experience lets

you discover the reef nightlife.

Most of the beach fale resorts are owned by

men and effectively run by women. Satuiatua

is the exception, owned and run by Leilua

Tutoga Mailei, a powerful matriarch and matai

(Chief) in her own right she is a woman not to

be messed with. She started the resort 27 years

ago on family land and has gradually extended

the range of accommodation to include airconditioned

motel rooms. But I still prefer the

thatched fales on the beach. There is still

something special about lying under a mosquito

net and listening to the gentle waves on the

shore just three metres away.


Soon after a close shave with a rogue wave at Alofaaga blowholes near Taga.


Clockwise from top left: Staghorn coral at Satuiatua. / Relaxing in a beach fale after a day's riding.

Satuiatua Beach Fales under the banyan trees / Cooling off at Afu Aau falls

I think about how Lelua will be feeling about the fire as I

contemplate what we will do. “We will do nothing today. Let’s

let Lelua have a day to absorb the loss and mentally recover.

We have time to change bookings later if we have to.” The easy

thing is to skip the next day’s riding, but I am very reluctant as it

is a unique day.

The first stop on this days riding is usually at the Taga

Blowholes. More spectacular and reliable than Punakaki on the

West Coast of the South Island, they are a little-known wonder.

From a vaguely signposted corner, the 4WD track meanders

down to the coast and along the shore to a black lava plateau

about 5 metres above the sea. When molten lava contacts

the sea the rapid cooling causes it to explode, creating vertical,

fissure-ridden cliffs. The constant action from the unrelenting

southerly swells has widened the fissures and spouts of water

are forced up to 40m in the air. There is usually a local there

who, for a small tip, will throw a coconut into the hole, timing it

just right for the coconut to ride the top of the spout.

When the seas are small, everything is entirely predictable and

there is a temptation to toss your own coconuts. As I discovered,

this can be a lot more dangerous than expected. The rocks are

wet and slippery, and in big seas, rogue waves will crash across

the plateau and sweep it clear of everything. Once caught by

a wave that was fortunately only knee deep, I struggled to stay

upright in the fast moving water as it surged towards my camera

gear lying on the rocks at the base of the bank, 100m from the

cliff edge. Fortunately a more cautious cyclist grabbed my bag

moments before the water arrived. And even more fortunately, I

kept my balance to tell the tale.

The second treat of this day is the Afu Aau falls. Coming at the

end of 40kms of often hot riding, they are a welcome chance to

freshen up with a dive into the clear, cold pool. Whether your

entry is via a sedate walk into the pool or a dive from one of

the high rock ledges is a personal choice, but its worth taking

the time to snorkel around the edges. Here clinging to the rock

walls are koura – freshwater crawlies. The initial trepidation at

sharing the pool with so many small sharp nippers soon passes

as I study them in their natural habitat.

This day usually finishes at Florences’ homestay. Here Ruth

and Kelvin have been reclaiming her family’s old Copra estate,

experimenting with new crops and new growing techniques.

Ruth is a superb cook with an appreciation of fine wine, while

Kelvin (amongst many things) is a butcher from Taumaranui.

They have a raft of stories that put Barry Crump to shame and

are always delighted to share them.

While I am contemplating how we might manage without

Satuiatua, I get the message I have been hoping for. The beach

fales are all still fine and Leilua will host everyone for meals

in her home until they can rebuild. Having been treated to a

Sunday Toana’i (traditional Samoan umu lunch) at her home, I

know she will do it well.

And now, within four days of the fire, there is a full rebuild plan

underway. It won’t be quite the same for the next few months,

but the hospitality may more than makeup for the lack of meals

on the balcony, watching the whales.

Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or to join a group.www.outdoorsamoa.com


Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga

with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural

experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders

that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.

Cook Islands.

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022

Float above the world’s bluest blue

OVERWATER HEAVEN

t r a v e l

Malekula

Island

Malekula is one of the most culturally diverse islands in Vanuatu,

riddled with secret cannibal sites, surrounded by glassy reefs and

home to the gentle giant of the sea: the dugong.

There are over 30 languages spoken on the small island of

Malekula. With a population of only 25,000 and different cultural

practices affiliated with each language and village, Malekula is

sure to delight at every turn.

Sit and listen to the stories from the village Chiefs and ask how

their practices differ from their neighbouring villages. Assume

nothing and greet Malekula with an open heart, you won’t be

disappointed.

TOP ATTRACTIONS:

Snorkelling with Dugongs

Pull on your flippers and masks, the gentle sea cows are nearby

and they’re happy to share their reefs with you. Weighing up

to 400kg and growing up to 3m long, these mysterious sea

mammals are the only living representative of the Dugongidae

family.

Dugongs are strictly herbivores, so you’re not at any risk of a

nibble. Your best chances of seeing them is on the Gaspard Bay

Dugong Tour. Your guides won’t rest until they find them!

Big Nambas

In ancient times, the Big Nambas Chiefs (differentiated from the

Small Nambas by the size of their penis sheath) had several

wives. They had an ongoing rivalry with the Small Nambas that

lasted hundreds of years.

The Big Nambas are located in the north and accessible from

the capital Lakatoro. You will need to book a tour with your host

and they will be able to arrange transport. The Big Nambas will

prepare a cultural experience for you including dance, magic

and followed with a small ‘storian’ (discussion and chat) and

refreshments.

Losinwei Waterfall

It’s a short and easy hour-and-a-half walk from the Lakatoro area

alongside a river to the Losinwei Cascades, and you’ll have your

jaw agape the entire time. As the light bursts forth from between

the trees, the plunge pools glow every shade of blue and green,

reflecting the colour of the leaves and forest undergrowth. Your

shoes will be drenched by the time you reach the cascades, so

make sure you’re wearing hiking sandals or sturdy waterproof

boots. Cool off under the waterfall and follow the lead of the

guides joining you as they flip off different platforms with huge

smiles on their faces.


Losinwei Cascades - Image by Ben Savage


The Small Nambas Tribe of Malekula Island

Small Nambas

It’ll take you five hours in the back of a ute over volcanic soil

and through window-deep rivers to get to the Small Nambas

on Malekula Island. You’ll be dodging branches, chatting

to locals as they hitch a ride from one village to another

and laughing and high fiving children who try to keep up by

running alongside the car.

The Small Nambas don’t participate in any cultural festivals

outside their village, so you can only witness their dances

and experience their culture by going there yourself. You’ll be

welcomed by the village Chief who, after a series of cultural

dances, will have food prepared and served in his home.

Communities of South Central Malekula are where the Small

Nambas tribes can be found. Having retained their traditions

for many centuries it is an opportunity not to be missed and

experienced.

"The Small Nambas don’t

participate in any cultural

festivals outside their

village, so you can only

witness their dances and

experience their culture by

going there yourself."

Nawut Bungalows

The Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront of

Uri Island, a short boat ride from Malekula. They’re complete

with 24-hour solar electricity, flushable toilets and laundry

service. If you’re doing the Gaspard Bay Dugong Tour this is

the best place to stay because you’ll be able to head straight

out to dugong territory. The coastline is also home to turtles,

dolphins and giant clams, so get your underwater camera

ready!

A few other ideas:

While on Malekula, if you have the chance, make your way

to the cultural centre of Lakatoro. There’s a small museum

up the hill there. If you catch the staff and it’s open, you won’t

be disappointed! You’ll also find the Malampa Handicraft

Center next to the main market in Lakatoro. This woman’s

business centre, packed with hand-woven baskets and rare

island treats is a must see.

Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront

For more information on travelling to Vanuatu:

www.vanuatu.travel/nz


9.30am Mt Yasur on Tanna Island

Hiking Diving Culture

Volcanos

Go explore at vanuatu.travel

t r a v e l

A week in

Paradise

Words and Images by Steve Dickinson and Greg Knell

When you think of Tahiti, it conjures up the quintessential

South Pacific paradise; white sand beaches, crystal

clear water, blue skies, cocktails by the pool and

beautiful women swaying their hips with a flower in their

hair. Sure, Tahiti and her islands has all that, but there is

so much more!

Our stunning home from Tahiti Yacht Chaters

We were there to watch the Hawaiki Nui, which is a

canoe race from one stunning island to the next, over

128 km long, divided into three legs, between the

Leeward Islands (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora

Bora). The race is done in a vaá, an outrigger canoe,

with six people in each boat; there are no crew changes

on the water, it’s a marine marathon. The Hawaiki Nui

attracts each year hundreds of canoe racers coming

from all over French Polynesia but also from Hawaii,

Europe even Japan. They compete for 3 days over

distances that vary from 25km to 60km, depending on

which leg of the race.

In 1992, the Hawaiki Nui came from one persons idea,

his name was Edouard Maamaatuaiahutapu, and he

wanted to create an event to showcase the islands

where he lived. This race was developed along simple

criteria: to be as prestigious as the Moloka’I Hoe race in

Hawaii and to be far more arduous.

The Hawaiki Nui is not really for tourists; it’s for the

locals; of course, anyone can watch; it is like the Super

Bowl of vaá- outrigger racing; there are hundreds of

boats and hundreds of support teams and hundreds of

people watching. On the open water, that multitude is

spread out with vaá and boats as far as you can see in

every direction, big ones, small ones, from super yachts

to tiny tinnies and every man and his dog (literally) is

either in the competition, supporting or watching.

The start of every race is this mad rush to get the best postition



The art of Va'a surfing

Like I said, on the open seas, it’s OK that they are all spread out,

but in the lagoon, which at times is only 2-300 meters across, the

confusion and compression of all those boats and all those va’as

creates chaos. I do think if it were anywhere else in the world

there would be litigation, shootings and sinking, but because it is

in Tahiti, everyone is pretty laid back, and even though there is

the constant possibility of multi-million boat boats colliding, no one

really gets too stressed.

This year the first leg from Huahine to Raiatea was rough, wet

and windy with solid swell and poor visibility, not more than 300

meters; how the crews of vaá knew where to go was beyond me,

but through wind and rain and massive swells, they powered on.

It is impressive to watch not only them punching through major

swell but catching waves and surfing them.

The arrival at each island, the finish, is met by the locals going

full noise; there are screams and water splashing, palms waving,

and flowers were thrown, and although there is real pressure to

win, every single canoe gets welcomed home and because it is so

arduous that even finishing is treated like a significant win whether

you are first or last.

The final leg is from Taha’a to Bora Bora. Bora Bora is legendary

for its beauty; the white sand and shallow lagoon create this

amazing blue-clear water that looks like an extension of the sky.

The lagoon would be at least a kilometer across and it is full of

boats and people all partying, celebrating, playing music, people

dancing and welcoming the vaá with garlands of flowers. It’s a

competition, but it reflects so much a Polynesian way of being,

everyone is happy, everyone is smiling it just simply a feel-good

experience.

While following the Hawaiki Nui we spent some of the nights not

in a hotel but aboard a stunning catamaran from Tahiti Yacht

Charter |. There is no better way to watch the sun go down and

then to wake up to the oil-like water that is in the lagoon; you go

to sleep in your stunning double bedroom with your own shower

and bathroom, it is not like being on a boat at all. Not only was

the catamaran amazing it came with a chef, the talented Tamata,

who each day we would ask what is for dinner and she would

always say, it’s a surprise, and it was – the food was fresh and

mostly fish (at our request) , cooked, raw, whatever, it was always

spectacular.

The joy and relief of simply finishing


Going through the pass at Taha'a - a solid swell frighteningly close

Spectators are everywhere

Sunset from the deck at the Bora Bora Yacht Club


The finish of the final leg at Bora Bora

The two nights we spent in Bora Bora we stayed at the

Bora Bora Holiday Lodge, a perfect place to stay; great

rooms, air conditioning, a pool and is only 5 minutes’

walk to the yacht club, which was an brilliant place for an

evening drink and a meal.

If you are going to Bora Bora, you need to check out

Bloody Mary’s, it is …. Unique, the list outside on the wall

is a list of all those who have been to the restaurant, and

it reads like a Hollywood who’s who. Established in the

latter half of the 1970s, a genuine Polish noble, Baron

Jerzy Hubert Edward von Dangel, created the restaurant,

and it has become an icon of Bora Bora – great local food

and equally good music.

The day after the race, we had a day to fill and spent it

with Bora Bora Cultural Lagoon Cruises with our guide

Narihau. We were picked up and immediately taken to a

spot where manta rays came in quite shallow; snorkelling

in the misty water (manta does not like crystal clear) we

got to see these monsters of the deep gliding around

scooping up food. We then headed back to the boat, the

OTI'A ARE, and we went to Narihua family island (motu)

for lunch. Now over the years, I have had several great

island lunches but never anything like this, it was simply

superb. After lunch, you can walk around the motu which

has now been turned into a garden, and each plant is

clearly labelled and describe what it is and how it has

been used. On our return to the hotel via the boat, we

stopped at the coral garden where you could swim in

what and only be described as an aquarium with bright

colour coral and fish of every description. The tour is a

great way to experience Bora Bora in a way you would

never find yourself.

We then headed back to Papeete and relaxed back into

the newly refurbished Te Moana hotel for the night, only

to be up early the next day for our Va’a experience. After

watching the canoes for the last week, it was great to

have some tuition on how it is done and to actually get to

paddle.

The first this you note is it’s not easy, it is not physically

hard (well, not while you are learning in the lagoon) but it

is tricky, you must keep in rhythm and make sure ya don’t

bonk the person in front on the back of the head. We

played around in the lagoon for a few hours, and we did

get better, but you can only begin to imagine how difficult

it must be in open water with waves and wind and in a

race!

As our week of activity came to a close, we had one

last hoorah. Fishing with Moorea Fishing Charters, we

jumped on the ferry with our guide Fred and went over

to the beautiful island or Moorea. Here we were met

Va'a experience day


Classic Bora Bora, the most beautiful finish line in the world, captured by Greg Knell

by the biggest smile I have seen in Tahiti, Matahi. He was

pumped and ready to go fishing. The day before, they had

caught a nice tuna, and they were amped. Very cool boata

23feet long aluminium V-shaped boat, powered up and great

for the conditions. And exceptionally well captained, as we

found out. As we went outside the reef, our good luck with the

weather changed, the wind came up, and the rain came down

in buckets. With the wind and the rain and swell it was ….

Challenging, but Matahi was determined, we tried for 4 hours,

but it was not to be.

Eventually, we gave up as the conditions continued to worsen.

But the moment you head back into the lagoon, it is such a

contrast, and it is back to dead calm. We headed to Matahi

house for lunch which included fresh tuna (from yesterday)

raw and cooked with his grandmother’s special marinade. We

didn’t catch anything, but as we told the disappointed Matahi

it’s called fishing, not catching, and it gives us a great reason

to come back and we will. Matahi sent us a few pics of the

previous week – and we can wait to get back.

The only good thing about leaving Tahiti is Air Tahiti Nui, the

friendly staff, the fantastic food the comfortable layout of the

Dreamliner is the perfect end to a perfect trip. As we took off,

the sun had come out and illuminated the reef and it was like it

was not saying goodbye but see you again soon... And we will!

Special thanks to:

Staff at Tahiti Tourism www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/

Air Tahiti Nui www.airtahitinui.com

Te Moana Tahiti Resort www.temoanatahitiresort.pf/en/

Tahiti Yacht Charters www.tahitiyachtcharter.com/en/

Bora Bora Holidays Lodge www.boraboraholidayslodge.com

Bora Bora lagoon and cultural excursion

www.boraboralagoontours.com

Bloody Marys www.bloodymarys.com

Moorea Fishing Charter www.mooreafishingadventures.com

Captain James Tapeta • Maruia Richmond

Holding on for dear life with Moorea Fishing Chaters

Amazing results can be had with Moorea Fishing Charters


Tahitian Dreamliner

Voyage en première

Enjoy full service in all classes

* Complimentary WiFi for Poerava Business

© Grégoire Le Bacon

AUCKLAND - TAHITI - LOS ANGELES - SEATTLE - PARIS - TOKYO

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